Conference vmsnet::car$note:carbuffs

The problem in -.1 turned out to be a broken pigtail ground on the front
multi-filiment bulb socket.

Now, anybody ever replace a dash bulb in a newer GM truck? Geez I can't get the
damn thing appart! I'm trying to replace the bulb that lights up the heater
cluster. Is it even a replaceable bulb??

     Most of the dash lights I've changed lately, the bulb is spot welded
    into the socket.  You can buy the assembly at the dealers or some part
    stores, you can also buy a new socket and bulb at the parts store and
    have the buld replaceable in the future.

    I pulled the engine compartment wiring harness out of my GTO Sunday. 
    All of the wires had been hacked off at the plug that goes to the
    bulkhead connector; some were reconnected by simply twisting wires
    together and wraping a piece of tape around them, others were still
    hanging there cut.  I tried to label everything as I removed it, but
    one wire that was connected directly to the battery just fell off of
    something, and I have no idea what. I have an almost complete schematic
    for this car.  When I laid the harness out and compared it to the
    schematic, some things didn't make sense.  
    
    The schematic shows a line that comes from the battery cable connecting
    at the starter solinoid, which goes through a fusable link then into
    the bulkhead connector, then to the batt connection on the ignition
    switch.  This, I'm assuming, is the line that is supposed to supply
    power to the ignition and accessories.  However, on my connector, the
    wire was cut off flush with the connector.  There is no other battery
    connection going to the bulkhead connector.  I had that mystery wire
    that fell off in my hand as I disconnected things, but there is no was
    that it could have been connected to where the schematic says it should
    go.  Now I'm totally stumped; what was feeding the ignition and fuse
    block?  FM?   Also, there is supposed to be one line coming off of the
    connector that goes to the coil (non-resistive or start connection). 
    Instead, that line was connected to one of the smaller lugs on the
    starter solinoid marked R.  The schematic does not even show this lug
    on the solinoid at all.  It shows only one small lug; my starter has
    two.  Anyone here familiar with how this thing is supposed to be wired?
    
    Dave 

    I answered my own question.  The battery connection into the bulkhead
    connector had been previously hacked off, and some idiot just stuffed a
    wire in the hole on the back of the connector so it was touching the
    crimp, then taped it to an adjacent wire to hold it in place.  After I
    cleaned all the old dried out grease from the connector shell, I could
    see where it had started to melt due to the heat that was being
    generated by the resistive connection.  I'm absolutely amazed that this
    car never had a fire under the hood, or that it even kept running, as
    there were a number of really awful connections.  There were a few were
    the wires were loosely twisted together and taped.  
    
    Tonight I start building a new harness.  Man, I hope I actually get to
    DRIVE this car some day :^)
    
    Dave

    
>    Tonight I start building a new harness.  Man, I hope I actually get to
>    DRIVE this car some day :^)

Do yourself a favor.  Buy a reproduction harness.  Once it's installed, it's 
a very simple procedure to convert the factory/reproduction harness to work 
with an internally regulated alternator and/or an HEI ignition system.

It's an exercise in futility to try and repair a hacked up harness without 
new wire connectors.

    Too late, I already built a new one.  It was a piece of cake actually.
    It looks great, I had all the stuff on hand and it didn't cost me a
    dime.  I was quoted $89 for a new harness and another $12 for an
    external to internal regulator conversion kit.
    
    Dave

Where'd you get the bulkhead connector pins?  They're expensive and hard to 
find

    The existing bulkhead connector and pins were still in excellent shape.
    The plastic was a little melted near the outside of the shell in one
    pin position, but it did not affect the fit of the pin any.  The
    problem was all the wires had been hacked off a few inches from the
    connector.  I used them as pigtails; I soldered new wires to them, then
    covered the joints with shrink tubing and wrapped the whole thing with the
    original type GM vinyl tape.  Once finished, it looks factory, except
    for the fact I couldn't match the colors exactly on a couple of the
    wires.  I know some people may cringe over splicing wires together like
    this on a restoration job, but the connections are solid and reliable,
    and once wrapped you can't tell the difference.
    
    Dave

I had some rough running in my '84 Voyager (2.6L) the last couple of times 
it has rained.  Once warmed up it was fine.  This morning I looked under the 
hood and saw some arcing near the distributor.  Much to my surprise it was 
arcing from the elbow (thick rubber) to the upper radiator hose!  They are 
about 1/4" apart.  There was some moisture on the hose (because of the rain) 
which dries off as it warms up.  I never would have thought that there would 
be enough conductivity there to allow it to arc.  Any thoughts by the group?

Jeff

    I believe this is a not uncommon problem with the 2.6l early voyavan
    vehicles. Still happens to my 85. Silicone spray helps a bit.

My '77 280Z electrical system works fine, i.e. battery
is charged per the voltmeter during daylight.  At night, with the
headlights on, the voltage drops to ~12-13 volts.

Is it the alternator or regulator? Any simple way to
determine which device has gone south?

Gim

    My guess would be a bad diode in the alternator.. enough to hold the
    system under light load, but not enough to support more..
    
    
    You should be able to yank the alternator and take it to an auto electric
    shop to have the output tested.
    
    
    ...tom

    Check the tension on the belt.  Could be that simple.
    
    Dave

    Hi,
    I have a 89 Peugeot 405-SRI with Bosch Jetronic injection system & Bosch
    electric fuel pump. The car is blowing the Fuel pump fuse (originally
    10A). I first suspected a defective fuel pump, I replaced it but
    nothing changed. It draws about 9.0Amperes through the fuse. I measured
    current also on another 405-SRI, it was 3.4-4.0 Amperes.
    The battery voltage ~14.4 Volts when car is running. I replaced the
    relays on the circuit also. The filter after the pump also replaced.
    What can cause this excessive current.
    Any suggestions will be greatly appreciated.
    Regards...
    -Murat
                

It has to be going somewhere.  Check for a frayed line somewhere.

Jim

    or maybe a bad fuel pressure regulator, or a clogged return hose after
    the regulator?
    
    ...tom