Conference napalm::guitar

    I don't advise using polyurethane. Go with lacquers. Stewart-McDonald
    has everything you need but beware that it's pretty involved. Here's an
    outline of the process:

    take it apart
    strip
    sand
    (stain)
    seal
    (opaque coat)
    clear coat
    rub-rub-rub
    polish-polish-polish
    buff-buff-buff
    put it together

    --Ron

    re :-1
    
    all right...I'm there, I'm a pro re-finsisher!  Sheesh, If I'd known it
    was just those few EZ steps, I'd have quit my day job!
    
    Steve (who'll only try it on an old worthless project!)

Check out note #248, there's a bunch of info there.

alan

    All those steps between "clear coat" & "polish" should be in a "DO
    WHILE" loop 'til the thing is right. I've done this before, & I would
    *not* recommend it unless you know something about wood finishing. It
    might help to practice on a piece of similar type wood first.
    
    (Also, I think the "strip" step refers to the guitar & not you ;-8 !)
    
    Paul
      

   >> Also, I think the "strip" step refers to the guitar & not you ;-8 !)
    
    
    Don't cook french fries in the nude either.........
    
    8^}

RE:    Don't cook french fries in the nude either.........
    
    Or solder...

    Two more notes to check out are 590.20, and 1454.13. 
    
    A few tips:
    
    1. Use nitrocellulous lacquer. This is what manufacturers like
    Gibson, Fender, Martin, etc. use.  Acrylic lacquer is easier to
    use and is quite durable, but it tends to dampen the instrument
    and will have an affect on tone and sustain. The best nitrocellulous 
    lacquer I'm aware of is "Behlen's Qualalacq". It is available from
    Stewart MacDonald, as well as other luthier supplies.
    
    2. Most major manufacturers do not use "stain", at least not the
    traditional type of wood stain that soaks into the grain of woods.
    Most manufacturers use transparent shading lacquer. This is applied
    after the initial sealing coats of lacquer. Shading lacquers are
    available in several differant colors and can be mixed to achieve
    the exact color you want. For example, the back of a Les Paul
    is usually a cherry color. This color is made up of 3 parts red,
    and 1 part brown shading lacquer. Shading lacquers are also available
    from Stewart MacDonald.
    
    If you can provide some more information about the instrument you 
    wish to refinish and the desired color, I should be able to help
    you figure out what you need to do.
    
    Before you decide to take on this project keep in mind that 
    professional results are achievable, but will take a great deal
    of time. Lacquer is extremely volitile. The fumes are quite harmful, 
    and the slightest spark can cause an explosion in an enclosed room
    without proper ventilation. I suggest you do all of the spraying of 
    lacquer outdoors, or in a very well vented room. 
    
    As far as spraying equipment is concerned, you can get "Pre-Val"
    aerosol propellants from paint stores for a couple of bucks. These
    have a glass bottle and screw-on propellant. These allow you to spray 
    any liquid you wish without a compressor or spray-gun. For small 
    jobs like a guitar, these are ideal.
    
    Mark

    If I remember correctly, nitrocellulous lacquer is toxic when sprayed
    and proper safety gear should be used...
    
    Greg

    Greg's right. Nitrocellulous lacquer is very toxic. You should use
    a mask rated for organic solvents. You can get these at most paint 
    stores.
    
    There are also many new water-based finishes that are being used
    in the musical equipment industry. These are known as hydra-coat
    finishes and suppossedly you can get any effect you want including
    Sunbursts. These are considered to be much more environmentally
    safe to use than lacquers or other oil-based finishes, and are
    non-toxic. Stewart Mac sells a full line of hydra coat finishes,
    instructional videos for applying it, as well as spraying equipment
    that can be adapted for hydra-coats. This is suppossedly the wave
    of the future, but I think a nitro-cellulous finish will always 
    be preferable on a vintage-style instrument.
    
    
    Many manufacturers these days are offering lower-priced lines
    with satin finishes. These are mainly used on flat-top acoustics,
    although I've seen lot's of custom basses with exotic wood bodies
    that had satin finishes as well. Guild, Takamine, etc. all offer 
    Satin finished instruments at prices considerably lower than their 
    high-gloss counterparts. If you've ever done a complete lacquer 
    finish, you know how much work is involved with water sanding and 
    buffing out lacquer finishes to get them level. These satin finishes 
    are applied in 3-4 coats and are not buffed at all. A lot of people 
    actually prefer satin finishes especially on guitar necks. Fender 
    applies a satin finish to all guitar necks on  "American Standard"
    series instruments, Strat+  etc.
    
    I refinished an SG last summer. I talked about the entire process
    in note 1454. It's an original style cherry finish. The finish really 
    came out beautiful. 
    
    I drafted a note a while back about guitar refinishing but have 
    never gotten around to enter it. Perhaps I should enter it here.
    
    I've been looking for another "handi-man special" guitar like the
    SG was. I'd love to pick up a Les Paul that needs a new finish and
    do it up.
    
    Mark
    

> These are known as hydra-coat
>    finishes and suppossedly you can get any effect you want including
    
    ..except that light-headed effect.  %-)
    
    Seriously, I noticed awhile back that Carvin uses tung oil finishes on
    their necks.  Seems like that'd be a real attractive option for a
    do-it-yourselfer 'cause it's easy to apply and would leave a nice satin
    finish.  Somewhere in the back of my mind, I seem to remember that
    former deccie Steve Greve did a tung oil finish on one of his guitars
    too.  Anyone have any thoughts on the use of tung oil?
    
    Greg

    Just one comment on oiled finishes; I have been warned many times by
    pros to think carefully about refinishing with tung oil, etc. because
    it makes the instrument nearly impossible to redo again.  They say you
    cannot remove an oil finish the way you can a lacquer or similar and
    the oil prevents any overspray from adhering too.  Also, if you're one
    of those people who believe finish affects tone, oil finishes seep into
    the wood more and some say this has a deadening effect on the resonant
    properties of the body.  Not everyone agress on this though.  Bottom
    line I guess is, be ready to live with it before you take the plunge.
    
    /rick

    Besides Tung Oil, a lot of people use Watco Danish oil as a complete
    finish. 
    
    Warmouth will not honor the warrantee on any of their necks or bodies
    unless the parts are sealed with a lacquer or a similar sealant. Oil
    finishes are not considered adequate protection by Warmouth. I tend
    to agree with this believe. Oil eventually dries up and allows the
    pores of the wood to absorb moisture. You would have to re-oil the
    instrument regularly to prevent it from drying out. The more you do
    this, the darker the wood will become. It may also affect glue joints. 
    
    If you want a low-gloss finish I would suggest you use semi-gloss lacquer.
    This is available in nitro-cellulous form from Behlens, and will
    provide permanent protection and a durable finish that will prevent
    the wood from being dented or bruised.
    
    Mark