Conference wahoo::fishing

    Could have been kivers, could have been perch, or it could have
    been slow movin bass. Its hard to say unless your there. BTW were
    you using the old fire tails? Kivers lovem.:-)
    
    It could be they were feeling your BIG hook too. The first tap could
    have been him sucking it in, the other tap, spitting it out.
    
    Rich
    
    P.S. On sat. I went out to quabin and caught 5 in 15 min., but that
    was about it for 6 hrs of fishing. As soon as the wind picked up
    they got lock jaw. I was using a small leadhead jig in 15ft of water.

    one method is to wait until they move off with it, then slam the
    suckers... I've improved my worm'n since I've started REALLY paying
    attention to the line... after you cast, watch the line as the worm
    falls, if it starts moving sideways... SLAM IT... if not, reel in
    the slack, lower the rod to about 3oclock, then lift the rod to
    about 12oclock, letting the rod movement move the worm - not the
    reel, let the worm sit a second, then do it again, watching the
    line all the time, and if the line moves, SLAM that sucker!
    
    works for me (most of the time!)
    
    don mac

Yeah, Don...we can all see that your worming techniques have improved as 
witnessed by your fabulous weigh-ins! (har...har)

NO WONDER you're blowing it!!  3 o'clock is BEHIND YOU, DUMMY.  9 o'clock is 
straight out in front of you!  If that's what R/O taught you, then you'd 
better go back to school!

-HSJ-

    How about some other basser's approach to worm'n....??
    
    Bass'n Bob???   Ranger "awful quiet lateley" Ron??  
    
    (I won't mention R/O)
    
    Don Mac
    

    re:.3
    
    Don's obviously lefthanded .
    
    
    or
    
    
    he put the hands on backwards after the last time he got he got
    his clock cleaned ;-)
    
    steve

    Strictly a matter of being busy and out of state....Tenn. on business
    Don.
    
    I've gone to R/O's mode lately. But, I can't let this one go by
    without some comment. Twenty years of worm fishing and I still can't
    catch the blessed things;^(
    
    Mr. Preston, you are trying to set the hook to quickly if you jerk
    at the moment you feel the "tick" "tick." To Give the fish a chance
    to mouth the bait try this: Work the rod the way Don Mac mentioned
    (correcting for the clock..as Joe pointed out). Never move past
    10:00 on the down side and try to keep the rod from going over 12:00.
    Whhen you feel the tap tap....you should have slack line, because
    the bass hit it on the fall. Reel in the slack, dropping your rod
    to 9:00 as you do, and THEN set the hook.This extra second is where
    you get the fish. Your hook set should be to your chest, not your
    head. This gives the maxium power to it. Hope this helps you.
    The idea is to not give the fish a pressure feeling on the bait.
    It isn't natural and they will spit it out the split (1/24th) second
    they feel the resistance.
    
    By the by, the tap tap can also (as pointed out) come from small
    fish like bluegills and perch etc. So if you set the hook as I 
    mentioned and there is nothing there, you can assume it was a kiver.
    
    There is one drawback to the above mentioned method and that is
    with pike or pickrel. They will have had time to get the hook into
    the back of their mouths and their teeth will cut the line sooner
    or later. That's the down of waiting the extra second.
    
    Tight lines, Ranger Ron   

    One note of caution...be prepared to duck!!! A missed fish in shallow
    water can send a 1/4 oz. bullet weight back at ya at the speed of
    sound.  
    
    Ron, what part of Tenn. were you in??  and a BTW if your planning
    a trip back anywhere near Memphis, Tn. drop me a line and we'll
    try to plan a trip..
    
    Ron
    

Welcome back, Ron...sorry we missed you at the tourney!

Aside from the hook setting techniques as pointed out by Ron and others, 
there are also several other things that can and do come into play in order 
to be successful at worming.

1. Hook sharpness:

There's been several discussions regarding this topic before, so only to 
summarize; the amount of force required to set a hook in a bass' mouth, 
especially the boney upper portion of the jaw, is directly proportional to 
the sharpness of the hook.  You should carry a small stone or hook sharpener 
with you and sharpen them, even right out of the package.  Also, touch them 
up after catching a couple of fish or after hanging up on logs or rocks (or 
piers, boats, people, trees on shore, etc).

2. Line 

Many people have their opinion on this subject, so I'll just give you my 
philosophy.  I prefer to fish the lightest weight line possible given the 
surrounding circumstances and structure type.  Generally speaking, the 
lighter the line you use, the less water resistance it has and the more 
sensitive it is, therefore, the easier it is to feel the tap...tap.

Obviously, if you're flipping into heavy weed pads, stumps or brush, then 
you need to increase your line accordingly.  

Line quality has a lot to do with both casting ability and hook sets.  Cheap 
line will result in more line stretch, thus reducing the amount of force 
that ends up at the hook.  It will also have a tendency to twist more which 
reduces casting distance and increase snarls.  Some of the better quality 
lines are manufactured by Stren, Berkley, and a few others.

3. Slip weights

Much like line weight, the heavier the slip weight, the more the resistance 
and the less the overall sensitivity.  My preference is to use as light a 
slip weight as possible, and none at all if I'm fishing shallow (less than 
5').  My general choice is 1/8 oz for 10' or less.  When fishing deeper 
water, heavier weights will get you down faster.  And when fishing dense 
structure like weed beds and pads, a heavier weight (1/2+ oz) is often 
required just to get down through the top.

4. Rods

Once again, to each, his own.  Generally, graphite, boron, and composites of 
both will provide increased sensitivity over glass rods.  Rod manufacturers 
have come a long way recently in improving rod sensitivity while maintaining
strength.  Rod action, ie light, medium, med-heavy, or heavy, also has much 
to do with hook setting abilities and power.  I've been using Shimano rods
for the most part and have been extremely pleased with their performance.
This summer, however, I bought a Lamiglass 6' heavy action spinning rod for 
worming, and I've found my hook-sets have improved considerably over my 
medium action Shimano without sacrificing sensitivity.


Well...so much for my 2 cents worth.  For many of you, what I said is 
nothing new.  For those of you who are fairly new to bassin, hopefully the 
day you catch your first real hawg, you'll think back to ole HoleShot Joe's 
comments and say, "Hey!  He was right!"

-HSJ-  

    re: .7
    
    From one Ron to another.....That is just where I was!!! Memphis.
    I'll be back down there in the future..so I'll make sure and get
    a hold of you....thanks!!!!!
    
    thanks Joe, and sorry that I missed it. I may try for this next
    one....but I can't count on anything right now...busy as a one arem
    paper hanger;^)
    
    Ranger Ron

    someone mentioned being careful about worm weights flying back at
    ya after a missed hookset - how true it is, and it's even worse
    if your caught on a log or something, you stretch out that line,
    when that sucker frees up - look out... BASSmaster once had an article
    (along with the Xray I think) of a guy who got a bullet/worm/slip
    weight enlodged in his arm...  I once had one fly back at me and
    hit me right in my glasses, so hard that it scratched my nose and
    knocked my glasses off... If there were not plastic lenses, I'm
    sure they would have shattered... Anyway - watchout for flying
    weighted worms on the rebound - or all lures for that matter - but
    a weighted worm has much less resistance than most lures...
    
    donmac

     I have to disagree with the "light line" theory for worming, if
    you're using Texas Rigs (unless your idea of light line is 10 lbs
    or more, and that weight combined with 1/8 oz bullet weights isn't
    much fun to cast on a stiff worm rod with a bait casting reel).
    I think you get too much stretch (regardless of the brand, although
    you're right about quality manufacturers - and don't overlook ANDE),
    especially if you're fishing deep. However, if you're fishing with
    jigs or any form of exposed hook, then I agree.
     For what it's worth, I had a brief talk with Billy Westmoreland
    at the Sportsmans Show last winter, and he said that if he had to
    pick one all around rod for bass fishing, it would be a "Laser"
    model "Lew's Speed Stick" model LS1 - 156ST, which is a graphite
    spinning rod with a "Tennessee" (Tape the reel on) graphite handle.
    Opinions are like a__holes (everybody's got one), but I regard Billy
    as one of the most knowledgeable guys around on this subject.
     Have any of you guys had any luck fishing pedigo "Spin Rite" or
    Mann's "Little George" type of baits ?
    
    Tight Ones,
    
    The Skoal Bandit

    
    
    Also, setting the hook you have to consider line stretch.  Example--
    if you are setting the hook when the fish is 50 feet away even a
    good quality line will stretch a bunch therefor requireing that
    a massive to the chest, knock yourself off the chair kind of hook set
    is a must.  If you are setting the hook in clear water close up
    it's a matter of a qwik wrist.  assuming of course the sharpest
    hooks possible
    
    TBDW
    
    

      
    	Try a little fish formula on the worm,  I wasn't a believer
    till this year.   They tend to hold on to the worm longer if it
    taste good.   Go to a video shop and rent a bass movie if you get
    a chance.  Some of them have under water shots,  when you see how
    fast a bass spits out a worm you'll be amazed.  Technique wise
    I would say the previous replys says it all.  
       THe worm is the best lure in the box.

    Hi I am still here  OK DON !!!!
    
    Just have lots of work to do..  I have to get a proto-type out asap!
    
    Bassin' Bob  getting ready for the TOC down the CAPE  HAY anyone
    ever fish MASSPEE-WAKEBY????
    

    RE:14 
    
    	Bob,
    		I've fished Mashpee and may be able to help you. Give
    me a call at DTN 261-2388.
    
    				Jim

    Thanks Jim!!
       I read this too late..
    
            I finished 23 out of 50 with a 1.01lbs hog!!!
    So one came in with a 7.9 lber nice fish.  second place was 5 something
    with a limit.
    
            I caught over 40 pickeral and 6 sorts.  Some of those pickeral
    were real hogs! I was breaking them off so I would not have to deal
    with them...
    
    	Jim I fished the entire day in the second lake behind the third
    island.  Started at the beach to find someone already in my spot.
     Then work back and fourth from the beach to the island.  During
    pratice my best consentration of bass was in the channle between
    the island and the shore.  That little narrow.  Thats were all the
    big pickeral were.
    
    Oh well anouther year to go to get to next years TOURNAMENT OF
    CHAMPIONS!
    bass bob.  get ready to put the boat away for the winter!
    

    BOB,
    
    I've fished that spot a few times and have had limited success.
    Sounds like it was a tough one, I wish I could have helped you.
    That lake can be tricky because it isn't the kind of lake with
    obvious spot. Most of the fishing is on humps, bars, hidden 
    brush piles and 9 to 20 foot weed beds. I try to fish it from
    now until ice-in. Last year I netted my buddys 8 1/2LBer. There
    are some big fish in this lake. Did you hear of Jerry Dyer's
    29LB stringer with the big on over 9LBs a couple of years ago???
                                                 
    
    
    				OH well, better luck next time.
    
    					Jim

   Sure did.  
    
    Nice fish.  I found two humps and a lots of deep weed beds in pratice.
    They just did not produce the day of the tournament.
    
    Hay what can I say  next year.
    Bob  Thanks for the help.
    

I got into worm fishing last summer, and will share my findings:

Find a knot that will hold to the point where the line breaks in
the middle first.  Practice tying this knot - get fast at it -
try to break everyone.  When you can tie two dozen with zero
failures at the knot, you've got it.  I wound up developing my own
knot (not seen in books) to get the speed and consistency.

Next sharpen the hooks - I don't care if they are new.  Sharpen
them to a spoon shaped chisel point.  The people that make
needles for stitching up people determined that this shape has
the minimum penetration force for flesh.

You should have a good stiff rod, and 10lb test line.  For
practice wrap the hook end of the line around a tree, step back
twenty five feet, point the rod at the tree, take up the slack,
and RIP IT OVER YOUR SHOULDER!  Or stated otherwise with the rod
pointed horizontally at the tree, as rapidly and as forcefully
as possible raise the rod so that the tip is back over your
shoulder at about a twenty degree axis from the vertical.
Surprise it does not break the line!  If you don't do this
exercise, you are likely to do a whimpy job at setting the hook
for fear of braking something.  Remember - when you really set
the hook, you have to drive the hook through the worm into that
bony mouth.

If you don't mind loosing a lot of worms and hook to pickerel,
just tie the line to the worm using your proven knot.  I prefer
to use a steel leader - with the worm pulled up over the snap to
prevent it from picking up weeds, and depending on the fishing
depth a slip weight ahead of the leader.

When fishing retrieve the worm by holding the rod at 11:00
position.  This will help lift it over junk on the bottom -
when you feel the strike, lowering the rod as you count 1 -
2 - 3 turns on the reel, then RIP IT over your shoulder.
BE READY TO DUCK!

Until I mastered the knot, the sharpening, and the RIPPING SET,
I was loosing allot of fish.

Don
    

    I agree with the strong hoookset and sharp hooks, but personally
    I'd rather not use the snap and leader.  I use 12-14lb test quality 
    line and tie direct to the hook.
           
    Another idea is to peg the weight to the line with a toothpick...
    And pegging the worm to the eye of the hook helps make the worm
    last longer...
                            
    Don Mac
    

    As I remember there are situations where you should peg the worm
    and situations where you shouldn't peg the worm. I beleive you
    should peg it in a weedy area, but on a sand/rock bottom the worm
    shouldn't be pegged. Is that right?? 
    
    Rich

< Note 500.21 by MPGS::NEAL >
                                -< When to peg >-

    As I remember there are situations where you should peg the worm
    and situations where you shouldn't peg the worm. I beleive you
    should peg it in a weedy area, but on a sand/rock bottom the worm
    shouldn't be pegged. Is that right?? 
    
    Rich

Rich,

Don't confuse pegging the worm itself to the eye of the hook vs pegging the 
slip weight above the hook so it doesn't slide.  I think Don was referring 
to peggin the worm.  This technique, btw, will save you mucho time in that 
you rarely will have to re-hook the worm after a false hook set plus it 
prolongs the life of the worm considerably.  I do it all the time now and I 
find that if I set the hook when I think I've had a hit and I really didn't, 
I don't have to rig the worm again because it's slipped down.

HSJ

    Don, Joe, I see what you are talk'in about. I had never heard of
    this method before. How long you fellows been doing that? Sounds
    like a great idea. I'll have to give it a shot.
    
    
    Rich

Rich,

I picked up the tip from a friend early last year and passed it on to Don 
and a few others.  I've found that it really saves a lot of time and worms 
in that you rarely have to re-rig the worm after a strike.

Basically, what you do is this.  Rig your worm Texas style and pull the eye 
of the hook down into the head of the worm.  Then, take a toothpick (I 
prefer the flat ones) and insert thru the worm body and thru the eye.  Then 
use nail clippers to clip the ends off flush with the body.


HSJ

    
    HJ..
    That is a great technique.  Although I don't suppose that RR will
    agree.  He prefers buying thousands of rubbers each spring and then
    trying his best to cover the lake bottom with slightly used worms.
    
    Just kiddin Ron.  I still like to go through your worm box when
    you aren't lookin. (He'll never miss just a few of these and a few
    of these.)
    
    TBDW
    
    Hey! What about that BASS ale?
    
    

>>    Hey! What about that BASS ale?
    
  
YOU BET!!  BUT LIKE RON SAID....ON FRIDAY NITE!    

    RE.21  Rich, your right.  It's popular to peg the worm weight only while
    fishing heavy cover -- however I tend to peg it 90% of the time.
    
    RE.22  I was actually trying to mention both types, pegging the
    weight and pegging the worm...
    
    >Another idea is to peg the weight to the line with a toothpick...  
    >And pegging the worm to the eye of the hook helps make the worm  
    >last longer...                                                    
    
    Don Mac
    

    Can someone tell how the weight is pegged!!!!!??
    
                  

    Slide a toothpick up into the bottom hole of the worm-weight, then
    snap it off clean, then slide the weight down onto the head of the
    worm.                                   
                                       
    Don't JAM the toothpick in there beacuse it may damage the line, just
    snug it in.
    
    donmac
    

  An alternate method of pegging I've seen is to use a single strand of
the 'living rubber' from your jig skirt or spinnerbait skirt and tie it
to your line above the sinker.  Sliding the 'rubber knot' down your line so it
contacts the slip sinker completes the operation without putting a 'ding'
in your line.  As I said I haven't tried it, but...

Al

    Last year I bought (for $1) a pack of 6" Creme worms in CHARTREUSE
    color, just for the heck of it. Has anybody tried this color before?
    I'm keeping a few in my tackle box for the time I feel like
    experimenting, but I'm inclined to feel that that much bright color 
    may be overkill for bassing...
    
    Ed
    

     I dunno about worms, Ed, but chartreuse for anything else is a KILLER!
    Try it in stained water, or, after a rain fish it as close to the bank
    in a small pond as you can. Fish will feed in places that are normally
    dry.
     My tackle box looks like a chartreuse factory. However, my new bet is
    that "G" finishes in plugs will get hotter 'n hotter.
    
    -- The Skoal Bandit

    How many of you like the carolina type rigging?  I have only used texas
    rigging and am interested in trying carolina rigs.  How long a leader
    do you use or do you vary the length depending on what?  Do you still
    insert the hook in texas style or some other way?  Also I have been
    reading and noticing in the bass shows many pro's insert a glass or
    metal bead between either the hook and the weight or the swivel and the
    weight, have any of you tried this?
    
    Whats the technique using the carolina rig, do you slow retrieve this,
    jig it, let it sit still on the bottom?
    
    Thanks
    
    Brian
    

    I've tried it.  I've used leaders from 2-4', texas rigged worms, and 
    with both beads or no beads above the swivel.  Steady slow retrieve - 
    you don't bump/crawl it like standard worms.  Also you use heavier 
    than normal weights.  -donmac

    
    
    	Nah, doesn't sound like a good pattern to me.  Use conventional
    	texas style.   If you do try it, I suggest using a kitchen sink
    	for the weight.
    
    	harbormaster
    

    Donmac
    
    Did you notice any dif in using the beads or not?  Also was it a normal
    type worm or one of these floating types.  Must be hard to cast any
    distance with a 2-4 feet leader.
    
    brian

    Nope, can't say that I noticed any difference.  Normal worm, although
    I've heard the floaters work well.  Nah, you can cast them, just ask
    Tim Lucia, 'it's all in the wrist'... -donmac

    Carolina can be a real nice rig for working 20+ ft. of water or so. The
    weight takes it right on down and the leader allows the worm to drag
    along the bottom more naturally than straight up and down movement
    achieved by such a sharp angle as when you are fishing deep. I don't
    use the beads. I rig the hook Texas style, with a 3 ft. leader, and
    will tie on any soft wiggly thing in my tackle box. It is more awkward
    to cast and I prefer Texas rig, but will switch to Carolina to fish
    deeper water.
    
    Poor Karl, the tackle vendor's friend
    

Yep, it's all in the wrist.  Having a heavy weight does two things (that I can
see, never tried it)  1) It makes it easier to cast.  2) The weight digs up
silt on the bottom, the fish come investigate and see the worm dancing above
the kicked-up silt.

Maybe I'll try it this year.
Tim

    You don't need to "Texas rig" the worm as long as it floats up a bit. I
    use a floating jig head or "Corkie" to help float it. I also use
    "Slinkie" steelhead sinkers. They don't hang up on rocks, and have a
    real narrow profile. Every steelhead drift fisherman uses a variant of
    the Carolina rig, but the egg sinkers would never worl. A couple of
    split shot on the tag end of your running line where it attaches to the
    swivel would work too (Crimp 'em on real loose...).
    
    --The Bandit