Conference noted::equitation

    I know someone that has a horse trailer that needs some body work
    done to it, Where in the Harvard,Mass or Southern,NH area can he
    take his trailer for Repairs???
    
    			Thanks, Nancy 

	Blue Chip Trailers does do body work, repairs, and maintence.  They
    are located in Lomar Park off Rt 111 in Pepperell, Ma.  I believe their
    phone number is (617) 433-8804 and the person to talk to is Bob.


					-Caroline

    I've called Blue Chip Trailers about repairs, they had a problem
    with the neighbors complaining about the paint fumes and the town
    then required a very expensive painting room, they were not willing
    to invest that kind of money, bottom line is that they can not do
    painting.  He did say that there is a body shop on the street that
    does do painting, but he was not very encouraging about how long
    its takes this shop to complete a job.  Sounded like it was done
    when they felt like doing it.  I decided to forget both places and
    am looking for another.  On another note; Blue Chip sells a really
    nice trailer and will accept trade ins.

    We took our two horse trailer to an auto body shop for rust removal
    and painting a few years ago.  You might want to check at other
    auto body places in your area.
    
    						Jan

    Johnson Horse Trailers and Equipment does sales, refurbishing, service
    and accepts trade-ins.  The address is: South Range road in Derry,
    NH.  The phone number is: (603) 432-9198 and ask for Ken Johnson.
    
    He has a paint room located on the far side of the barn.  He also
    boards horses.  I found Ken to be very friendly, accommodating and
    his prices are very reasonable.  I needed to have a new hitch attached
    to my new truck and found everyone in the Mass. area unwilling to
    do it without having to wait for 3 weeks and service alone would
    be around $80 to $100 dollars.  Ken was able to take me within two
    days and the cost was only $50 complete.
    
    Good luck wherever you go!
    
    Roslyn  8^> 

    
    It's time for me to have my 2 horse Kingston rebuilt (again).  Does
    anybody out there have recommendations on where I can have it done?
    It needs to be sandblasted, patched, and repainted.  (Rust is taking
    over....)
    
    Thanks for any advice
    
    Amy

    
    I don't know where you are located, but there is Blue Chip in Pepperell
    Ma, I know they do repair work, etc. They are on Rte 111 just the
    other side of the Nashua border. I have a friend who brought her
    trailer there for a new roof, and they did a nice job.
    

    
    I'm in Nashua.

	Hi Amy!

	Last time I checked, Blue Chip was unable to do extensive repairs
	and body work (neighbors complained about the paint fumes).  They
	will send the work out.

	I'd suggest Ken Johnson in Derry, NH.  Mind you, he's quite the
	flirt!!  Bring company! ;-) ;-)  His number is 432-9198.

					-Caroline

    Next week I am bringing my trailor up to MERRILL & Sons Truck and Auto
    Body in WEARE, N.H. I was up there for an estimate and the work they do
    on trucks is fantastic. I am having some metal work done, blasted and
    am having Polyurethane (sp) paint aplied for lasting luster and
    hardness. They have full body shop, welding, sandblast and Paint
    facilities. 
    
    I have found that truckers are very particular and Merrill's does
    alot of body reconstruction and custom paint work. My brother-in-law
    is very particular about his equipment (excavation business in Sudbury)
    and sends his equipment there.

FWIW, I just had the inside of my trailer, the tongue and the hitch assembly
done by Ken Johnson and he did a great job. He also just completely repainted my
mom's 8 or so year old Tracer and in both cases did a superb job at a reasonable
cost.

But, as a previous reply mentioned, he does enjoy chatting ;^)

Good luck getting yours done! My mom thought she had gotten a new trailer ;^)

    Ken J. replaced a roof on my trailer some time ago, it didn't last
    a year, watch him carefully, he tried to charge me 5.00 for a 2.00
    can of paint.  Maybe he's gotten more experience since then, or
    I just got him on a bad day.  Just be careful.....

    
    Well, I wasn't going to say anything, but one of the reasons I entered
    this note was so I could find someone other than Ken to go to.
    
    He supposedly sandblasted my trailer and started from scratch, but I'm 
    seeing an awful lot of blue paint under there!!!  It also didn't last
    very long, and the tailgate he rebuilt came off at the hinges.
    
    Amy
    

    Picked up my trailer on Saturday - excellent body work and the paint
    job is exquiset (sp). Good even coat of paint with no sags, drips
    or thin spote, even up under the goose where it had previously been
    rusted. Also had them go over the brakes and wheel bearings.
    
    ** And it came in at the quote.

    I highly recommend Merrills Truck Repair in Weare N.H.
    
    PS: Amy, for status, your trailor looks like it has been prime painted. 

Well, I've read all your suggestions for getting horse trailers fixed and 
repair but I haven't seen anyone mention anything about getting the leaf 
springs replaced.

so my question is:

Have any of you gone this route and have to replace your leaf springs?
Would you recommend going to a one of the places suggested in here like Blue 
chip or AStro welding and have them replace the springs or would you 
suggest going to a place that specializes in leaf springs ?

Also, any idea on how much leaf springs go for ?
I only paid $650 for the trailer, I'd hate to have to put another $4-500 
into it, just for springs... (yes I'm cheap)


I've got an old 2 horse trailer and the front springs both broke.    	   
We were coming back from South Dakota and got to Scranton PA. when they 
broke. 
when they broke we stopped at a leaf spring repair shop and they said that 
the springs would have to be made and that we would have to wait a couple 
of days. (this was on Saturday at noon)
We ended up Mickey-mousing the front axle up so it wouldn't move and took 
off the two front tires and limped home...


thanks 

~~Paul~~

                  		

    We had the springs done through a local fellow in Sterling, Ma.  Don't
    remember the price but I will get you his number if you are interested.
    They had to be made by some folks in Worcester.
    the fellow's name is Roger Aubin and I believe his shop is in Clinton
    now.
    

>    We had the springs done through a local fellow in Sterling, MA.  Don't
>    remember the price but I will get you his number if you are interested.
>    They had to be made by some folks in Worcester.
>    the fellow's name is Roger Aubin and I believe his shop is in Clinton
>    now.
 

Sure, I take the number. I live in Maynard and would like to get the work 
done locally.

that place in Worcester, it wasn't called Ballard's or Springs rebuilders 
inc. ?

if so, it might be wise for me to go directly to them and get the springs.
why pay for a middle man!?!

send me the number please, I'd like to talk to Roger anyway.

thanks

~~Paul~~   

    
    You can have them recurved...which is much cheaper than replacing.
    Car Springs off rt 135 in Framingham recurves. Could guess on price!
    
    Dave'
    

they can't recurve broken springs and that's what I got.


~~Paul~~    

I've taken my broken leaf springs to Ballard auto springs works in 
Worcester, Mass. 799-4662   home=789-2744

For $45 apiece John is going to make up two springs for me to fit my horse 
trailer.  (I'll be doing the installing)

he also said that he could make them in one day, which would of been nice 
the day that we broke down. but still, if your in a hurry this place looks 
like they can do the job.


~~Paul~~

    Anyone ever replace the tires on their trailer?? Where did you get
    this done?? I've been calling around, and can't find any tire places
    that have F78-15 trailer tires! With only two weeks before I want to
    use my trailer and two recently discovered flats, I'm starting to
    worry! I didn't think it would be hard to find them....thanks!

    I was under the impression that you can use regular tires
    for a car or truck on a trailer.  When I bought my trailer
    last month, we asked and that was what we were told, that
    we could even use one of the truck spares as it was the
    same size.  The tires have to be rated for the weight capacity
    they are carrying.  I just called a tire store, and they would
    sell me 4 radials at $239.83 that were F78-15.  That was mounted,
    balanced too.
    
    Lynne

    I did just find a place in Concord NH that has radials for 54.00
    each mounted and balanced. Guess I'll go with that....thanks everyone!
    
    

    I just bought a Kingston trailer that has been sitting for 3 years with
    the back tarp open, and water has just poured into the trailer.  The
    tailgate is completely rotten, most of the wood came off with a broom,
    but other than that the trailer is very structurally sound.  My 
    boyfriends uncle does welding and painting has redone many trailers so
    he will do the major work for us though we will be doing the sanding to get
    ready for the paint job.  The other thing we are going to do is get rid
    of the tailgate coil springs and buy the spring assembly from Kingston so
    the springs are underneath the trailer.  Has anyone done this before? 
    Is it easy to do?  Any suggestions greatly appreciated!!  

    I'd be really interested to see hiw this works out, if you rey it.  I
    have an old Kingston, and I just about can't use it because I have a
    bad back, and the ramp is *so* heavy, even with the coil springs on the
    sides.  I've even considered having the ramp taken off completely and
    making it into a step-in trailer.
    
    -ellie

    
    I know that Turnbow makes a ramp assembly so that the supports are
    under the ramp.  My ramp is huge and I open and close it with one hand. 
    
    Pat Leech ordered the ramp assemblies for her 3-horse slant trailer 
    (I'm sure she can tell you more).  Her ramp took three men and a boy to 
    open and close it.
    
    Now it can be handled with one hand.  Plus no springs exposed for a 
    horse to get hurt on.
    
    Mary Jo

    The real reason I want to replace the springs is that I had a horse
    bolt off the trailer last year and her foot went in between the spring
    and she fell.  At the time I was sure she had broken it, but she 
    managed to pull herself out with no more than a few scratches.  I have
    one friend whose 2 year old stripped the tendons off her leg doing this
    and had to be put down, and know of another that broke her leg.  For
    the $99 it cost to buy the kit from Kingston I feel it will be really
    worth it , for peace of mind if nothing else!!  The guy at Kingston
    said 2 extra pieces have to be welded onto the frame, which won't be
    a big deal since we plan to replace the floor and can do it then.  I
    probably won't get to this for a month or two as I have lots of other
    stuff that needs to be done first but I'll let you know how it turns 
    out.

    RE. last
    
    Please do let us know how it turns out! I foresee needing a new
    tailgate on my trailer in the next few years, it's okay now but
    I think it's going to have to be replaced eventually because, like
    the one you bought, it sat for several years. It has storm doors 
    that were closed, but the former owner didn't clean it out the
    last time it had been used and a pile of crap was left sitting
    in it right up against the ramp. The floor was fine, brand new
    just before the trailer was parked and there are heavy mats protecting
    it, but the ramp got some rot. It has no springs at all now, it's
    not THAT heavy, it's one of the short ramps that accompany two sets
    of storm doors above it so I can lift it myself, but as long as
    I will be replacing it I'd like to have it spring loaded as well.
    You see a lot of trailers with those big old springs on the sides
    of the ramp around, it certainly does seem awfully dangerous!
    

    If you have a trailer with those coil springs on the sides, yes there
    is real danger of a horse getting a leg in there.  What I've done is to
    take a piece of wood about 10 X 12 X 10 and cut two U-shaped slots in it
    so I can slide it down between the ramp and the spring assembly,
    covering the open space between the spring and the surface of the ramp. 
    The U-shaped slots are to fit around the piece of metal that holds the
    spring and the area where the hinge is.
    
    If anyone would like a pattern for this, send me mail.  It works really
    well -- they can't slide a leg into that spring with the piece of wood
    there.
    
    -ellie

    re .-1
    
    Oops!  Make that piece of wood 10 X 12 X 1  !!
    
    -ellie

    
    
    re: .18
    
    The trailer that I bought had the coil springs on it instead of leaf
    springs bolted onto the frame underneath.  The ramp itself is 5 feet 
    tall and the width of the slant load trailer.  It was so heavy that I 
    hurt my back trying to close it by myself.  The tariler manufacturer
    did not make any leaf ramp springs so I had to go to Turnbow Trailers 
    to get the leaf type springs.  
    
    I called Turnbow and mail-ordered 2 of the springs.  When I recieved 
    them, I took the trailer to the local trailer specialist here in Colorado 
    Springs and explained to him what I needed done.  He looked it over and 
    had the trailer done in less than 2 days and charged me around $30.00 for 
    all of the welding he had to do.  He had to weld an extra piece of steel
    onto the frame and then welded the spring frame onto the trailer frame
    and extension.  He then attached the spring onto the bottom of the ramp
    and adjusted the tension.  It has worked fine ever since and I don't
    have to worry about going anywhere by myself. 
    
    Having the leaf springs on the trailer has made it so that I can use
    the trailer by myself.  Before, I had to make sure that someone was
    there to help me open and close the ramp.  I would do it again in a
    heartbeat.  The only thing I have to do now is to make sure that I
    don't get the springs adjusted too tight and break the hinge welds.
      
    Pat

    re .-1
    
    Sounds like just what I need!!!  I too, can not use my trailer unless I
    line up one or even *two* strong people.  Where can I get these
    springs?
    
    thanks,
    -ellie

    
    Turnbow's number the last I new was  Turnbow Trailers  918 862 3233.
    
    

    
    CAN YOU SHARE YOUR THOUGHTS ON THIS?
    
    I just recently purchased a two horse tag-along trailer. As I become
    more and more educated around trailering to shows I find new ways to
    do things.
    I would like to know if the following idea is a good one, or are there
    reasons why I shouldn't. I would like to use the front end of the
    trailer under the hay bags to store various articles,(i.e. trunck, 
    buckets, shovel, etc.). The current problem is the possibility that 
    these articles shift and slide under the horses feed during travel.
    Thus, my idea is to build swinging doors (plywood) from the breast 
    bar to the floor. The two doors would be on hinges at the center post
    and swing twords the front of the trailer, away from the horses. These
    doors would then lock into place after the horses are loaded. This
    will prevent anything loaded in the front from sliding under the
    horses.
    Is there any reason why I should not do this? Will this restrict the
    horses movement when trailering? I have looked at many trailers made
    by different manuf. and none seem to have this feature build into 
    their trailers. I thought there maybe a reason why they don't.
    

    My two horse tag-along has an enclosed manger, so that the
    front of the trailer can be used to store lots of stuff....
    I would suggest that you go from the breast bar to the floor,
    and also from the breast bar to the front of the trailer,
    so that you can have an enclosed area to store things that
    the horses can't get into. (My horse would enjoy chomping
    the handles of the shovel, pick etc (-; )
    Just make sure that whatever you use to latch the doors
    closed, that it cannot be opened by the horse, or that there
    is nothing the horse can get injured on.
    
    L-

    
    My old Campbell Coach is a Thoroughbred style trailer with the chest
    bar.  But is also has hinged, swinging doors that go from the chest
    bar to the floor.  This trailer has been around for years.  The
    doors do keep things from moving under the horses feet.  
    
    Also, the doors can be latched in an open position for horses who need
    to have the open area under the chest bar.  I had a horse who I had
    to lock them forward or he would bang his knees.  
    
    I never did have any problem with horses trying to bother the stuff
    in front of them.  But some horses might cause a problem.
    
    Be very careful with plywood.  A horse potential could punch a foot
    through it and have a terrible time getting free.  The doors on my 
    trailer are the same metal as the sides of the trailer.  Or maybe 
    putting a layer of rubber over the plywood would make it real hard
    for a foot to go through. 

    I think it sounds like a good idea, too. I'd be careful about blocking
    off the top manger-style, though, even though it may keep the horse
    from getting into things. Unless it's designed so that that top piece
    lifts up and attaches to the front of the trailer or something, it
    could potentially block off the escape door, couldn't it? I've always
    been leary of those trailers that have solid mangers in front, leaving
    no way out for the handler save the rear of the trailer. My neighbors
    have one of these, and it looks pretty scary to me to be caught in
    there with a panicking horse or something. I'd be leary of any set up
    that blocks a persons exit. My own trailer has a head divider between
    the two horses, but it also has dual escape doors. If it didn't I
    certainly would have taken the head divider down. Designed right, I
    think your idea is great!
    

    I had though of doing something like that, but my trailer is a 2 -horse
    stock type, with a front escape door.  So we'd be blocking off the 
    escape door if we did that.  All we do is use bungie cords and/or rope
    to secure stuff up front.  We've also nailed in a 2X4 or two to the 
    floor so stuff wouldn't slide forward.  All this is temporary, and we
    can still climb out if we had too.  

    My two horse tag-along is two feet longer (12 vs 10) so
    that the escape door is before the manger....one of the
    reasons I bought it, actually.....
    
    L

    
    Thanks for your ideas! It sounds like what I want to do is okay.
    
    I like the idea regarding rubber mat covers on the inside of the
    plywood.
    
    I guess my idea wasn't that original after all, but I'm glad it will work!
                                                 
    thanks again!!!

    My only concern would be if the horse was in trouble...there would be a 
    lot of "stuff" to move.
    For example, we had a mare come over the chestbar while trailering. 
    She hung by her middle until we could bodily lift her off the bar.  The
    bar itself was jammed so we couldn't let it go...her weight bent the
    pin.  She did this not once but twice in the same trip.  The second
    time she had to come out the escape door in front.
    
    Food for thought.
    
    Kathie
    

    
    	Good point, Kathy. My only thought about this was, what if 
    	you have a scrambler, and they need the space in front of them
    	to stabilize? Maybe I'm not picturing what you want to do the
    	same way you are, but I see it as the doors would be right at
    	their front toes...?
    
    	Sherry
    

    
    I suppose if these doors were hinged - they could also be designed to
    come off easily - so as to be removed with a scrambler or to help a
    horse in trouble.
    
    I've been thinking about doing the same thing - sometimes I end up
    having to put shavings bags/hay bales right in front of Fred and
    he doesn't seem to care a bit.
    
    Sounds like you'd better patent this door idea!
    
    Amy

    
    The hinged doors on my trailer are removable.  The hinges are the kind
    that will pop off.  
    
    Also, so that the door isn't immediately in front of the horse's toes, 
    the door sits under the side of the chest bar farthest from the horse. 
    I.E, the chest bar is padded so that it is 5" thick.  So the door is
    recess about 5" from the horse's chest assuming the chest is pressing
    against the bar.
    

    MODERATOR: Please move this note if it is in the wrong area.
    
    I could not find anything in the keyword "trailer repairs" regarding
    installing new flooring in a trailer.
    
    I recently bought a trailer that needed new flooring. I tore out the
    old flooring and have some questions:
    
    Is Oak the best type of wood to use? Is green oak ok? 
    
    Do you finish it with any type of varnish, or stain?
    
    What width boards should I use? (the old floor was 1" thick but the
    widths varied, some boards were 10" some were 6").
    
    Any advice would be appreciated.
    
    T.
    
    

    I don't really know the answer regarding the wood, but I would tend
    to go with the solid aged oak and spread liberal coats of preservative.
    Some folks I know use waste oil.  To each his own I guess.......

Widths aren't critical - to a point.  You don't want to use one piece of wood,
because it would warp.  But, whether you use a 6 inch piece or a 10 inch piece
or any other width is pretty much irrelevant.  The thickness is critical.  The
thicker woods will be stronger than their thinner cousins.  Oak is a good strong
wood.

The best way to protect the wood floor, in my opinion, is to have a mat covering
it and to keep the wood dry.  As long as the wood is not allowed to stay wet
for extended periods, it should last a long time.

Ed..

    We just redid my trailer, which is a Kingston.  We replaced it
    with pressure treated wood, which was strongly suggested by the 
    people at Kingston.  The size we used was 2" thick, by 8" wide, and
    10" long, which of course had to be cut to fit into the rounded edge
    on the front of the trailer.  We then used galvanized screws to lock
    the pieces in place through the crossbars under the floor.  We put mats
    on top of the floor, a must for safety, any wood that gets even a
    little wet can be extremely slippery.

    re: .49
    
    I thought pressure treated wood is usually white pine???
    I was told any pine whether pressure treated or not is not
    good to use because although pressure treated, it is still
    soft wood and can snap due to weight or urine rot?
    
    Also, the boards that came out of this trailer were only 1" thick.
    I do not know if they were the original boards, but I was also thinking
    of putting 2" board back in it. If I do, however, it will be too high
    because the metal beam in it now is for 1" thickness. Maybe I can put
    2" in it and plane the edges down where the end meets the ramp so the
    horse won't trip getting in it??
    
    Any comments?
    Tina
    

    If you plane a 2" board to 1" where it meets the supports, you will
    have a board with the strength of only a 1" board.  The rest just sits
    there -- or hangs there, depending on whether you are planning the
    upper or lower surface.  If your supports will only accept a 1" board,
    it sounds like you should go with oak.
    
    That is an interesting observation about pressure treated wood.  I have
    found that it really is more brittle that untreated wood.
    
    -ellie

    
    
    	Need info.. 
    
    
    	Ed and I bought a Bison trailer last night- Yeh!!!!
    
    
    	Any way.. 
    
    	I am looking for places to call for a hitch.. 
    
    	The dealer said he would do it but, I don't know if his 
    	prices are good.. 
    
    	Frame Hitch      153.50
    
    	Ball Mount       36.00
    
        Plug             10.50
    
        Brake Control    73.95
    
        Circuit breaker   7.50
    
    
    	The dealer is not chargeing for labor.

    I bought my hitch at U-Haul in Nashua.  I did a lot of shopping
    around and they had the best prices.
    
    Linda

    
    	Got my hitch at Uhaul too, but they really screwed up
    	the wiring!! (didn't ground it!). They did a good job
    	on the hitch, tho...

There are a couple of points that are making me lean toward having the
dealer do the hitch

 - The height of the hitch has to be right for the trailer.  The dealer
   would, obviously, be able to ensure this.

 - The trailer has electric breaks.  We would have to pay someone to do
   the break control wiring.  This would be extra, I assume.

 - The dealer is not charging for labor, only parts.  This SOUNDS like a
   good deal, but who knows.  I think he would install anyway if we found
   a better deal on the parts elsewhere.

 - The trailer has a break-away, but I would think that is pretty easy to
   hook up - just a simple hook or whatever.

 - The hitch is a class 3 hitch.  I assume this is more expensive.

Things that make me lean AGAINST having the dealer do the work are:

 - The dealer would require the truck for about 4 hours.  He is located about
   an hour from home, so we would basically be stranded for an hour.  The
   dealer did offer the use of his truck for that time so we could go somewhere
   if we wanted to.  I thought that was very nice and going above and beyond.

 - Are the parts prices reasonable?  I don't know.  I kind of think they are,
   as this guy seems VERY honest.

Does UHAUL do this kind of setup (CORRECTLY?)?  I have had them (not the
one in Nashua) put a frame mounted hitch on my car about 5-6 years ago.  I
didn't have any major complaints with their work.  But that was a simple
hitch with a regular plug - nothing complicated about it.  We tried to use
that hitch, but apparently it won't fit the truck (we could have saved about
$153).

Any other thoughts?

Ed..

I just spoke with UHaul of Nashua.  They wanted the following:

 Frame Hitch (installed) 126.25
 Ball mount               20-30  depending on how much height difference
 Electric Break installation  about $200
(plug, control, installed, circuit breaker)


The above makes a total of about $386 - $400.

This is for a class 3 hitch on a 1988 GMC 4x4 with 8 foot bed.

Ed..

    I had mine done at UHaul in Manchester NH. The whole set up was around
    $350.....including a Class 3 hitch bolted to the frame, ball mount
    (which they carefully calculated to be the right height for my trailer
    and the whole set up is perfectly level), transmission coolant set up,
    and wiring for lights and electric brakes, including the 'brake box'
    thing inside the truck. Everything works fine, they did an excellent
    job....we dropped the truck off before work and picked it up after.
    

    Wow!  We sure saved a lot of $$$ when my husband and neighbor
    put our hitch on!  It sure pays to have a talented and friendly
    neighbor(s)!  All we paid for were the materials......If I remember
    correctly, it was a Reese hitch w/500 lb tongue weight bolted to the 
    frame....he did the wiring, too.  The trans and radiator set-up was
    put in by our mechanic at a reasonable price...
    
    Lynne

I have a two horse Shoop that is desperately in need of some work, a new 
tailgate, reinforcement of the wheel wells, maybe new wiring, a paint job
etc...

I live in Massachusetts but I would be willing to go almost anywhere in NH, VT,
ME and RI to get this work done.

Any ideas or suggestions?

	Thanks,
		JoAnne

  Hi Joanne,

    I'd recommend Deluxe Auto Body in Sterling. They did trailers
    for two neighbors, and I plan to take mine there too if I ever
    need to. Why? He's a horseman. Keeps his draft horses in the 
    barn next door! I don't have the number but I'm sure he's in
    the book. Pratt's Junction Rd, just off the intersection of 
    Rt 12 and 190(Exit 6).

    Kiirja

       I see lots of horse trailers at Shepherd Auto Body in Townsend
       (Right on Rte 119 at the Harbor). Anyone ever tried them? They've
       been doing them for about 3 years now.
       

I can recommend Hillside Restorations in Peterborough NH.  Blue Chip
horse transport, a reputable nation wide transport company can also
recommend them.  They do high quality work out of a low overhead, small,
father/son shop. 603-924-7973

Melinda

    Most of the replies in this string are rather old...has anyone had
    any recent experiences with trailer repair shops in the southern
    NH area? Mine needs a paint job and a new tailgate, also the electric
    brake wires were cut by the previous owner and I'd like to get them
    working again if possible.  Don't want to/can't afford to spend a 
    fortune.  Unfortuneatly I also don't have the time to go dragging my
    trailer around to a ton of different places for quotes, so I'm
    wondering if any has any hints as to who has the best prices in the
    Weare NH area.
    

    I've just gotten my trailer back from having some repairs...new wiring,
    new electric brakes, and the tailgate completely rebuilt.  In another
    few months it goes for sandblasting/painting.  The gentleman who did
    the work was unable to spring load the ramp for me, however.  I used
    to be able to lift the ramp myself but I've had a back injury and
    don't want to risk it anymore, but I do want to be able to go out
    on distance rides by myself.  My trailer
    is a 76 Miley...old but in excellent condition, the frame is still
    solid, the floor great, and this is the first time it's ever needed
    a paint job, and I really like it a lot so I decided to 'fix up'
    rather than 'buy new'.  I do not want the side springs you so commonly
    see on Kingstons, but rather some sort of springs that mount underneath
    the ramp so there's no danger to loading/unloading horses.  Has anyone
    had this done, and is so where?  The fella who rebuilt the tailgate
    did a fantastic job, but had no idea how to go about spring-loading it.
      

    Hi Linda,
    
    I had a horse get hung up in the springs on a friends Kingston trailer 
    about 6 years ago, and vowed to never own a trailer with them!  When
    we bought our Kingston trailer it needed to be completely rebuilt and
    one of the first things to go was those springs.  I ordered a spring
    directly from Kingston that we welded underneath the trailer and seems
    to work pretty well.  I know of at least 2 horses that have had to be
    destroyed because of being caught on those springs.  Luckily ours fell
    after she got caught and was able to pull herself out.  I think we only
    paid $99 for the spring plus shipping.  Definitly worth it in my book!
    
    Linda 

    	My Keifer had an under-the-ramp spring that worked well, you
    	could call Riverview sales in Merrimack MA to see if they can help
    	you get the same kind installed on your trailer.
    
    	Sherry

    Linda,
    
    That is exactly what I need.  I do plan to steer clear of the side
    ones. I'd rather lift the heavy ramp than risk those things.  Do
    you remember where you ordered the under-the-ramp one? I spoke to
    Turnbow, they want $175.00 for what they called an 'assist kit'.
    I'm hoping to do better than that. :-)  I can have a local welder
    get in on there for me at a minimal cost, Im sure.  
    
    Sherry,
    
    My friend has a Kiefer and I know exactly what you mean, that's sounds
    the same as what Linda mentioned.  Thanks for the tip, I'll give
    Riverview a call, I didn't know they did repairs, etc.  I did call
    Blue Chip in Hudson NH, they want $35 for the springs and $35 an hour
    labor to install it.  Could add up quickly if anything goes wrong or
    they feel like working slow.  Of course, the option of buying the
    springs from Blue Chip then paying my local welder to install it has
    occurred to me, but Im going to call a few more places first, starting
    with Riverview. Thanks for the tips!
    
    - Linda
    

    Hi Linda,
    
    I ordered mine directly from Kingston Trailer in Kingston, MA.  I
    am pretty sure it was around $99 and we installed it ourselves.
    
    Linda