Conference noted::equitation

	Although I've only trained a couple driving horses in my life and
not anything like an expert on the subject I'd like to respond to this note. 
I have trained a good many work horses and I believe the principles are the 
same. When training the big horses we usually hitch the colt with a breaking 
horse who is big, strong, and unshakable. A good breaking horse will do at 
least 50% of the training for you. A breaking horse can also teach the colt 
things the trainer never can, such as stepping over the pole when hitching and 
to side step a load.

	The most important thing is safety. There are many more things 
that can go wrong when driving a horse than when riding. When a driving horse
shies or backs away from an object they invariably cramp the wheels of the
wagon or cart, back the cart into something that makes a loud noise (like 
your neighbors car), or hook a wheel on a post or tree. Trying to control
a very frighten horse hitched to a wagon makes a very interesting afternoon.

	I suggest that you start with new or very good equipment. A harness
or cart breakdown can result in a bad experience your horse will never get
over. I know a lady who used a steel training cart. On day while trotting
a well trained two year old the steel shafts broke from metal fatigue. The 
lady was caught between the cart and the horse so she had little or no rein
control. The cart was still connected to the horse with the traces, but 
without shafts it flopped and rolled around while the poor horse was prodded
by the broken shafts. Each time she nearly had him under control the cart 
would strike him in the heels. Before it was over the colt ran through a fence 
and jumped into a ten foot ditch trying to escape the cart. The colt nearly 
died from shock although he had few physical injuries. He never made a good 
driving horse. He was always afraid and very ready to run away.

	Spend alot of time ground driving your horse. Let him get used to the
harness and to taking commands from someone behind him. After he does well
ground driving; ground drive him with the traces dragging on the ground so he 
can gets used to the traces rubbing on his legs.

	After the ground driving phase, I usually use a log or a stone boat 
next. I want to teach the horse to pull and to let him get accustomed to having
a load behind him before I confine him in shafts. I usually add a noise maker 
during this phase. He must learn that noises behind him do not mean him harm.
Remember his natural reaction is to run to get free of the noise. Later he will
steel carriage wheels on hard surface roads and other sounds he may not like.
The faster he goes the louder the sound becomes which is very frightening to a 
horse trying to escape.

	Finally I then progress to a two wheel training cart. Using the cart, 
I let the horse experience auto traffic, and crowds. I want him to learn to 
trust the driver and to have confidence in himself and the driver. All training
should be conducted in an controlled environment and you should have an 
experienced helper.

	The most important command that you will ever teach a horse is whoa.
If he will always stop on command and stand quietly you'll have an enjoyable
and safe driving horse. 

	Stan Harackiewicz trains Standardbreds so may have alot to offer on
this subject.

	Tyke

    Just to add a note to .1.  If you are serious about trying to teach
    your horse to drive, try long lining him first.  That was not a
    mispelling in the previous sentence - Long lineing is similar to
    longeing but uses two 100 foot lines.  If your horse works well
    in the long lines (there are books available that describe it further)
    then the next step would be the ground driving with the full harness.
    Good luck.
    
    Sherree
    

    Hi Bonnie!  I taught my mare to drive...best advice I could give
    is to take your time (typical answer).  Long lining is a great way
    to get horsey used to the whole idea (se note .2).
    
    The story I want to relate (more for getting it off my chest than
    anything else) is a true story that happened about three years ago.
    I do not in any way think anyone in this conference would ever do
    this...
    
    My horse (Spiz) and her "boyfriend" (Cocoa) were turned out in the
    large riding ring.  Another boarder and her 11 year-old step-daughter
    wanted to use the ring to drive their Morgan (Echo).  They apparently
    felt it was too much bother to put Spiz and Cocoa back into their
    stalls, and so just brought Echo into the ring, fully harnessed
    and already hooked to the cart.  They never warmed Echo up and the
    11 year old climbed into the cart to drive.  For some unknown reason,
    Echo began going nuts...the little girl could not bring him back
    to her.  Cocoa, who had never seen a cart before and perhaps sensing
    danger to "his" mare, scurried Spiz off into the far corner of the
    ring, then swung around and faced Echo head on.
    
    By this time Echo was in full tilt, galloping around the ring
    uncontrollably (the step mother was unable to head him).  He came
    around the ring for another pass at Cocoa and Spiz, and swerved
    at the last moment to avoid a head-on crash.  However, one of the
    shafts pierced Cocoa's chest and came out the other side through
    the rib cage.  Ironically, neither Cocoa or Echo moved until the
    vet got there.  It took four men to drag Spiz away from her friend
    who was by now nearing death.
    
    Cocoa died a few hours later, Spiz had some cuts from the impact
    of Echo hitting Cocoa who hit Spiz who hit the fence, but was ok
    otherwise.  Echo didn't even have a scratch.  
    
    I'm sorry to have babbled on and on, but it was a story that I wanted
    to get off my chest, and I feel better knowing you'll all understand
    the loss that never should have happened.
    
    Ann

	I just got myself a nice quiet little horse that drives.
	I've never done any driving, so don't know much about it.
	Does anyone know of a place that might give lessons around
	the southern NH, north-central Mass area?

	Also, I've been looking at harness and wagons (small, 2-person
	carts) and it appears that harness goes for around $300+ and
	wagons can go for anything!! Any suggestions as to where I
	could look (other than the Pedlar - I've been checking that
	out) for a good deal on some second-hand driving equipment?

	Thanks!
	Julie

    Julie,
    
    Leonard Roy just moved to Groton, Mass a few months ago and he does
    a lot of driving.  I don't know if he officially teaches driving
    (he is a western trainer and judge) but it would be worth
    calling to ask.  He also might be able to help you scare up a rig...he
    restores them.  His number 448-9232.
    
    Jeannie
    

    I bought a cart and harness last fall for my horse from 
    John Wheeler in Hudson MA: 617.562.3020.  He restores old harnesses
    and carts, and he also has some new stuff.  The carts are mostly
    breaking/racing sulkys.  I got a new harness and a restored breaking
    sulky for just under $200.00.  The other number I have is Ruby Rice,
    in Ringe NH: 603-899-3330, she has carts and harnesses (some used
    and some new).
    
    good luck

    
    Hearthstone Farm, run by Barbara Baker, also teaches driving I believe.
    They are in Mason NH - 878-3046.
    
    

    Nancy Odams of Bear Meadows Farm, High Range Rd., Londonderry, NH
    (off Route 102) teaches driving to horses and people.
    (603)432-5457.
    

	Thanks, all, for the info. I appreciate it! 

	-julie

    I AM FROM THE CHESTER N.H. AREA, AND I HAVE A VERY GOOD QUALITY
    PLEASURE HARNESS FOR SALE FOR $190.00.  ITS AMISH MADE AND HAS PATENT
    LEATHER ON THE BREAST COLLAR, INCLUDES BREACHING STRAPS.  I ALSO
    HAVE A TWO SEATER PLEASURE/TRAINING CART, LIKE NEW!! I AM ASKING
    $850.00.  THEY CAN BE SOLD SEPERATELY.  I HAVE BEEN DRIVING FOR
    A COUPLE OF YEARS AND LOVE EVERY MINUTE OFF IT.  I WOULD BE WILLING
    TO HELP GET YOU AND YOUR HORSE GOING IF INTERESTED.  IF THE HORSE
    ALREADY KNOWS HOW TO DRIVE IT WON'T TAKE LONG TO LEARN.

    
    	I looked at all the base notes and I didn't see one
    	about driving... So.....
    
    	I would like to start training my cridder to drive this
    	year and am in the process of pricing road carts and
    	harnesses...
    
    	Does anyone know about nylon harnesses?  They are coming
    	out with a softer nylon now that is supposed to be
    	an easy-to-care-for type.  
    
    	The price I am getting for a good pleasure type harness
    	with beveled leather and brass fittings goes about
    	$200.00.  (horse size)  Has anyone noticed if this is the "going"
    	price for this type of harness?
    
    	Susan

    CHECK OUT FILE 327 AND I THINK THERE IS ANOTHER FILE ON DRIVING
    TOO.NEAR THE BEGINNING.
    
    I TOO GOT INTO A LITTLE DRIVING THIS YEAR. I HAVE A SHETLAND PONY
    THAT I CAN HARNESS UP AND DRIVE (IF I WANT TO TAKE MY SHEEP TOO,
    THEY
    ARE BEST FRIENDS AND HE HATS TO GO ANYWHERE WITHOUT HER. YOU SHOULD
    SEE US IF YOU WANT A GOOD LAUGH.
    
    I HAD A 3 YEAR OLD GELDING THAT I STARTED THIS SUMMER DRIVING BEFORE
    I STARTED TO RIDE HIM. ISTARTED OUT LUNGING HIM AND GETTING HIM
    GOOD AT THAT AND THEN ON WHEN THE HARNESS AND I LONG LINED HIM FROM
    THE TUGS SO THE LINES STAYED LOW. OF COURSE I HAD SOMEONE AT HIS
    HEAD INCASE OF ANY PROBLEM WHERE WE WERE BOTH NEW AT IT. THEN WHEN
    HE GOT GOOD AT LONGE LINING...I SHOULD HAVE GONE TO A DRAG BUT I
    WAS BRAVE AND WENT TO A DRIVING SULKY I GOT FROM JOHN WHEELER THAT
    IS USED ON THE TRACK HORSES FOR TRAINING. HE WAS NOT AFRAID OF IT.
    I PULLED IT ALONG SIDE OF HIM WHILE SOMEONE LED HIM AND JUST LET
    HIM GET USE TO THE FEEL OF IT ON AND OFF HIM AND PUT IT ON HIM WITHOUT
    PUTTING THE SHAFTS IN THE TUGS AND ONCE AGAIN I HELD IT AND MADE
    HIM THING HE WAS PULLING IT WHILE SOMEONE LED HIM. THEN I HOOKED
    HIM UP IN IT AND WITH A HEADER( SOMEONE TO STAY BY HIS HEAD ) OFF
    WE WENT DRIVING HIM. AND THEN I FINALLY SAT ON THE CART AND HE WAS
    GREAT. I HAD THE BEST TIME AND AM GOING TO TEACH MY 6 YEAR OLD GELDING
    AND I HAVE A YEARLY APPY THAT I PLAN TO START A LITTLE THIS SUMMER
    TOO. IN TALKING TO THE VET, THE PULLING SHOULD NOT HURT HIM AND
    IT WOULD NOT BE ALL THAT MUCH ANYWAYS. I REALLY ONLY HAVE TIME FOR
    ONE HORES AND I HAVE THREE.
    
    IT IS A BLAST.
    
    GOOD LUCK,
    
    TERRY
    

    I have used the nylon harness on my racehorse, and I absolutely
    love them!  They run somewhere in the $200 range, and all you use
    to clean them is a damp sponge, and they seem to hold up really
    well.  If you are interested I can get you the name of someone 
    who sells them.  Let me know.
    
    Linda
    
    

    I looked at Nylon harnesses a few years ago when I started to teach my
    horse to drive. I didn't like what I saw and so dug deeply into my
    pocket and bought new leather harness. Nylon harness was and looked
    cheap. I don't intend to show and it's a lot of work to clean leather
    harness, but I don't regret my choice. I haven't heard of anyone coming
    out with driving harness made of artificial materials equivalent to
    those being used in the Wintec saddles, for example. 

    At the track nowadays, you hardly ever see someone racing a horse
    in a leather harness.  When you are jogging  a horse everyday in
    the same harness, you want something that can be cleaned easily.
    I have used leather harnesses on pleasure driving horses, mostly
    because it would only be used once or twice a month and wouldn't
    need to be cleaned on a weekly basis.

    I can certainly understand using nylon on the track for cleaning
    purposes, but after witnessing a couple of driving accidents in
    some driving events, I wouldn't use one.  The theory is the same
    as a nylon vs a leather halter.  If for any reason the horse or
    carriage gets in trouble, the leather will break and release the
    horse, the nylon will not.  I'd much rather have the leather break,
    its replaceable.  Smuckers Harness in PA carries a decent grade
    leather harness for about $245 (1988 prices).  I used one for two
    years, before I bought their better grade.  I will post their 
    address and number if you would like.  As far as cleaning goes,
    I sponge it off with a damp sponge after use, then once a week
    I clean with Horsemans One step (I think thats the right name, it
    comes in a white plastic container)  there are many other cleaners
    as well.

    
    I will be teaching my 17 year old morgan (Jasper) to pull a sleigh
    sometime this winter (as soon as next week). I have a basic idea
    of the methods of introduction. He seems pretty willing in most
    areas of training under saddle, and is very calm in his ways, so
    for all I know he may take to it and love it! Whether he has driven
    in his past live, I have no idea, but I shall soon find out. WHO
    KNOWS, he may enjoy it more than a ten mile trot in the heat of
    summer, under saddle.
    
    I would like this to be a pleasant experience for him, so the
    introduction to driving will most likely remain with him for the rest
    of his life. Can anyone shed some light with their experience in
    training methods? Length of training per session? Correcting evasion?
    My search for literature on theory and method has come up fairly dry.
    
    Thanx in advance, Dave'
    
    
    

    
    	Thanks for the replys!
    
    	I _think_ I will be going for the leather harness - but I have
    	never seen one of the nylon ones and want to check it out. 
    	I am an old lady that ALWAYS went with leather until this past
    	year when I tried out a Biothane breastplate on my cridder -
    	now I wouldn't ride with my other - although it never hurt him
    	and I kept it clean.  But with sweating so much in this area
    	(and with sponging and stream wading) the Biothane is super!
    	(They are coming out with a western version this year too).
     	It is slick and real kind to the horse.
    
    	But I too, like the idea of the leather breaking in case of
    	a spill....
    
    	I sent away for some info on different carts from a place
    	in New York - I will post the types and prices of the 
    	carts...  Sounds good... I talked with the man's wife on 
    	the phone yesterday and you can buy a kit (unfinished
    	and unstained) for a road cart (similar to a Medowbrook - 
    	but I think it has a wider/higher wheelbase) for $550.00.
    	Finished for $650.00....  My repair person has this type
    	of cart from this company and it is a nice one...
    
    	Susan

    	Thanks also for the training pointers..
    
    	The book I read when I trained Cody with originally did have
    	driving in it as part of the horse's base training - but at
    	the time I just ground drove him with 2 lunge lines through
    	my western stirrups.  (I had already had him used to the 
    	weight of an empty saddle by then).  We never went much more 
    	then that as far as driving.
    
    	I was going over the same book last night and it doesn't list
    	any different types of driving bits...  
    	
    	I trained Cody in an egg-butt snaffle and later changed to a bit 
    	that is _like_ a Tom-thumb but easier.  I have seen it discribed 
    	as a "Colt Training Bit" (but I have seen Tom-Thumbs listed as
    	this too).  When I bought it - it was listed as an Argentina (sp?) 
    	Snaffel.  It has a curved shank of about 5" (top to bottom) rather 
    	then the straight shank of a Tom Thumb.  This is used with a 1" chain
    	curb (two smaller chains side-by-side).  I have been using this
    	same bit on him for some time.  
    
    	What I am prattling on about is this - Is there a type of driving
    	bit with a small shank and snaffle mouth (5 1/2" wide)?  Would it
    	unreasonable to use _his_ same_ bit for driving?  I don't want
    	to go with a shank-less bit.  He has a super mouth and reins
    	nicely - but can get full of himself at times and I like his	
    	bit.  He tended to lung at the regular snaffle. 
    
    	Thanks for any leads..
    
    	Susan

    Our Welsh pony does some driving - pulls a 2-person sulky with no
    effort whatsoever, and he can also pull a small hay wagon full of
    kids, using some energy along the way.  He seems to enjoy the workout.
    
    We picked up a cob-size harness at a tack shop in Templeton (can't
    remember the name of the place, but my wife would know.  Send mail
    if you want the name).  I think she paid about $180 for it, and
    it's a good, strong, well-built leather harness.
    
    I'd think twice about the "safety" aspect of these things.  Maybe
    a leather halter would break at some point, but the straps in a
    driving harness are much, much heavier.  I can't imagine them breaking
    without a huge amount of stress.  They're under a lot of stress
    in normal use anyway.  Also, you'd probably be worse off if the
    harness did break, since it would be unlikely to break completely
    free of the horse.
    
    Anyway, driving can be a lot of fun, for you and your horse.  And,
    if you drive on the road, it brings a smile to everyone that passes
    by.  If you do go on the road, don't forget to put one of those
    reflective orange triangles on the back of the cart.
    
    /Don

    re: .8
    
    Normally driving horses use some kind of shankless bit.  Part of the
    reason is with the long reins, running martingale, and sidecheck or
    overcheck you have a tremendous amount of leverage.  There are snaffles
    of differing degrees of severity--from nice big fats ones to twisted
    wire.
    
    If you must use a bit with a shank, look at liverpool bits.  They
    can be used with a curb chain and the reins can be attached in several
    different places to increase severity as needed.  Liverpools are
    used with SIDEchecks, not overchecks. 

    
    	re: 10
    
    	Thanks...  the harness I plan on using has an overcheck.  I
    	guess I will just wait to see if he goes well with a shankless
    	snaffle...  The overcheck may stop his pulling on the bit all
    	the time.   (I kind of forgot about that!)  I don't want to buy 
    	a bit that will hurt his mouth.   Just for chuckles - When I do 
    	harness him I will use his old egg-butt snaffle for a try...  It 
    	is a light, hollow mouthed bit.
    
    	Thanks for your thoughts on this....
    
    	Well, when will SPRING get here and get rid of all the ice in
    	my turnouts???!!!  I keep putting down dirty shavings on the
    	icy parts so they will stick and give some traction for my
    	poor cridders...
    
    

    I am working my horse towards combined driving and I use a Dee ring
    snaffle, *no* overcheck (and *no* sidechecks) and *no* martingale. In 
    dressage driving, any type of check or martingale is considered
    to restrict the horse's free, natural movement (just like you can't
    use martingale, side reins, etc. in dressage under saddle.)
    
    If you are doing only flat, ring driving, then a check will not
    interfere, but if you will be driving anywhere with any hills, please
    remember that when a horse goes to pull up a hill, they drop their
    head and neck to do so and a check may hinder his ability to do
    so.
    
    Good luck, and I'd be interested in any information about carts.
    
    Linda

    A good source for harness and/or carts is Chick's in Harrington,
    Delaware.  They cater to the harness racing crowd and have a lot
    of tack.  Their prices are reasonable.
    
    There is a man in Delaware who repairs and sells carts.  He's a
    bit high, but he guarantees his work.  Chicks can tell you who he
    is.
    
    If you need a training cart, try your local harness track.  Frequently,
    you can find an old jog cart.  Parts, if needed, are fairly cheap.
    
    We use a thin snaffle with our stallion and a straight overcheck
    bit.  He's no problem, although his disposition is spirited.  He
    loves driving.
                           ********************
    By the way, does anyone know where to get shafts for a sleigh? 
    We have a sleigh from about 1840 that has a single shaft (for two
    horses).  I'd like to substitute a double shaft.  Also, this sleigh
    has to be rebuilt.  One of the former owners used it as a giant
    flower pot!  The wood is useful only as a template.  Any hints on
    the kind of wood to use would be appreciated.  THANKS!

    re .13
    
    Make that a straight SIDEcheck bit!
    
    There's an AMish man, Jacob Stoltzfus, in Leola, PA, who makes harness.
    A fine harness for showing costs $400 -- which is about half the
    catalog price I've seen.  The harness is black patent with red beading,
    really nice work.  Jacob has a son who does very good work, too.

    We used to drive out Morgans and tried both overchecks and sidechecks.
    After experimenting and attending some driving clinics, we switched
    to sidechecks and had them loose enough that the horse could put
    it's head down but not low enough to reach the ground.  We found
    the overchecks tending to make them stick their nose out, plus at
    the walk it tends to snap or flop on their neck.  If you have to
    keep your horse's head off the ground, I'd use a loose side check.  If
    your horse is well-behaved, I would use no check (we ended up doing
    this for one horse and it worked well).
    
    						Jan

    For those of you new to driving, there are two different kinds
    of sidechecks when it comes to driving.  It is important that
    they are not confused as they do different things.
    There is a sidecheck overcheck that comes from the overcheck bit,
    up along the side of the head; through two rings on the head staff,
    passes along the crest of the neck on either side and then joins
    before if goes to the saddle of the driving harness.  Where it
    joins depends on the horse and where you wish to have his head.
    
    There is another set of sidechecks that go from the bit to rings
    on either side of the saddle and run parallel to the ground.  They
    also set the horses head but more in than up and they usually 
    don't come off the overcheck.  
    
    When my guy is on long lines I sometimes use the parallel sidechecks.
    However, I never use them when he is in the cart.  To me he doesn't
    have much lateral motion with the shafts let alone adding this type
    of sidecheck.
    
    There are others out there who are much more knowledgable in this
    area...this is only my opinion.
    
    

    Re: .-1
           
    > There is another set of sidechecks that go from the bit to rings
    > on either side of the saddle and run parallel to the ground.  They
    > also set the horses head but more in than up and they usually 
    > don't come off the overcheck.  
      
    These are more commonly called sidereins and are generally used
    when long lining or lungeing a horse.  I've never seen these on
    a harness - just the overchecks or the sidechecks that you described
    in the first part of .16.  I've only seen rings for sidereins on
    training harnesses and surcingles, not on normal driving harnesses.
    
    						Jan

    Well, since there hasn't been much activity in this note for awhile,
    I'll ask a potentially silly question :^)
    
    I have been talking with some people who are either driving enthusiasts
    or otherwise somewhat knowledgeable people and recently a discussion
    came up about the various types of cavessons that may or may not
    be used. Almost all of the people that I have talked with do combined
    driving, show driving (Hackneys and such), and pleasure driving.
    For the most part they say they do not use any type of checks but
    do however use either a regular cavesson, flash or figure-8 noseband.
    
    What are some of your feelings, ideas, thoughts, etc.?
    
    Linda
    

    
    	Well, I finally got the catalog I sent for...
    
    	The address for anyone else that may be interested is:
    
    	THE EDEN MILL AND CARRAIGE SHOP
    	4197 Eckhardt Road
    	Eden, NY  14057
    
    	(716)648-5969  Craig Vogel (owner)
    
    	They offer a number of carts in their catalog - but mention
    	that if you do not see a particular cart - give them a call
    	of if you want something extra on a cart that they offer - this
    	can be worked out.  They also mention that they can make anything
    	horsdrawn to the customer's specifications...
    
    	They have an Eden Road Cart - (prices have gone up from what
    	I mentioned in the base note..)  This is $600.00 unfinished
    	by unfinished - I mean that you sand, stain/paint it yourself.
    	Finished - $750.00
    
    	This cart looks kinda like a Medowbrook - but without the fenders
    	and I think the ride may be a bit stiffer (no springs) and no
    	padding on standard model.  You can get Flush hubs for $80.00
    	more and there are oversized wheels and different seats avail.
    
    	There is a Medowbrook - Unfinished $900.00 finished $950.00.
    	there are a bunch of options available for this too..
    
    	There is a Skeleton Gig (this looks like you sit high up)
    	Unfinished $1,100.00 finished $1,400.00  No options listed
    
    	The Whitechapel - (Nice cart!  Kinda boxey, with sides)  
    	unfinished $2,500.00 finished $2,750.00  No options listed
    
    	They also offer 4 other Gigs - Eureka, Canterbury, Stratford
    	and Daisy Carts (there are no photos of these in the catalog)
    
    	They also sell Smucker's harnesses and have repair kits for
    	the carts (take-along type)
    
    	At this point, I like the Eden Road Cart for my use with some
    	options added...  Like the flush hubs (good point Linda Fox!)
    	an extra step and an added bench seat backrest.  I am undecided
    	about the oversize wheels or not...
    
    	They did metion that all their carriages have been engineered
    	for "Balanced-Ride" handling...  
    
    	I talked with Craig and he's a nice person to talk with - very
    	knowledgeable.. but then that last remark was coming from a
    	person that doesn't know much about carts - so that that as
    	you will...
    
    	Susan

    
    	I found a really NICE pleasure harness at Parade Acres in Concord,
    	NH... It is custom made one - it was made for someone and they
    	never came back to pick it up.  It is a Smuckers Harness (anyone
    	know of this kind?)  It is VERY soft!  Made mostly from bridle
    	leather.  Well, my friend and I liked it so much that she also
    	ordered the same one....  It did come with sidechecks - and
    	the owner ordered me a overcheck bridle - for no extra charge
    	(In fact, it was bit less expensive..)  They carry a wide
    	assortment of driving gear as well as carts, wagons and such..	
    
    	I would like to later drive without the overcheck at all but
    	that will come in time...
                                
    	Susan

    I AM LOOKING FOR SOME INFORMATION ON DRIVING AND HEARD THERE IS
    A PUBLICATION CALLED " THE WIP" THAT IS A GENERIAL INFO PAPER
    LIKE THE PEDDELAR.  IF ANYONE KNOW OF THIS PAPER OR HOW I MAY 
    GET INTOUCH WITH SUCH INFO I WOULD APPC.
    
    THANKS

    The "Whip" is a publication of the American Driving Society (I
    believe).  Am going to visit a friend tonight who is an avid carriage
    driving enthusiast...  SOooo.... will try to remember to ask her
    for information.  I always read her copy when I'm down there, but
    have never subscribed.
    
    h
    
    

       I am thinking about teaching my shetland pony to drive.  I've read
       all the previous notes on driving and was wondering if anyone 
       with experience with shetland ponies has anything to add.  He is
       approximately 10 yrs old, 10 hands high and has been primarily a
       companion pony for my horse.  He does know how work on the longe but
       is a bit rusty.  He gives pony rides to my kids with Mom at his
       head.  He does have a "bit of the devil" in him which makes me
       question whether or not he will ever make a suitable driving pony
       but since I don't spend much time working him it would be premature
       of me to write him off.  He is basically a sweet little guy with
       a BIG stomach!

       Any tips or pointers to information would be appreciated.

            Jeannie

       BTW - I have the book "Driving the Light Horse" I acquired some
       years ago when I was thinking about training my horse to drive.
    

    Some friends of mine drive (horses), and during some
    of the discussions on driving, have mentioned how well
    a "bold" horse/pony does at driving.  Sounds like your
    pony, having a bit of the "devil" in him, might be a good
    candidate.  
    
    Lynne

    I used to work at a barn where we had a wonderful Shetland pony
    stallion called Winnie the Pooh.  He was very aggressive and I was
    told he couldn't be ridden, but he LOVED to be driven.  We used to
    drive him in a two-wheeled pony cart, and he'd get excited as soon
    as he saw it.  His dam used to be driven in a small four-wheeled 
    open cart (can't remember enough of what it looked like to say what
    type of cart it was) around the Wayside Inn area in Sudbury, and her
    owner tried repeatedly to buy Winnie back so that they could be 
    driven as a pair.
    
    What's the point, you ask?  Well, Shetland ponies seem to do very
    well at driving, and the bit of the devil in him, if Winnie is any
    indication, will be an asset.
    
    c