Conference terri::cars_uk

    I bought a '67 Austin Mini automatic yesterday and I'm intriqued for
    the starting procedure. It appears the best way to start it is not to
    touch the accelerator and keep the brake pressed.
    
    Unfortunately the car doesn't seem to be charging. The car hadn't been
    driven for over 2 years and when I used my lights the drain was too
    much for the battery.
    
    Does anyone know if the dynamo is a standard Lucas unit?
    
    Billy

What condition is it in, out of interest?

Re: starting.  SU carbs don't have a choke plate, so to keep the vacuum high
and mixture rich for cold starting, it's best not to press the throttle.  Or so
I find.  Don't see what pressing the brake has to do with it though,
unless there's something weird in your auto box...

Re: charging.  The dynamo should be Lucas; even if not, there will be a Lucas
one to fit.  Try your local Halfords, or a Lucas Autocentre; if you're in/near
Reading, there's one of those near Humphries on the Basingstoke Road...

Scott

    
    The weak point in the Mini electrical system is the earthing strap.
    With any 'suspect battry' problems, always start by cleaning/tightening/
    replacing the earth cable - especially if starting problems occur when
    it is cold and damp!
    
    Elaine

If my memory serves me correctly, the dynamo in the early minis was the standard
Lucas C40 unit. If it's not working properly, check the brushes first as these
wear out regularly but are cheap and simple to replace.

Have you put an ammeter on the charge circuit to check whether you have any 
output? I assume that the ignition light is going out OK.

It's also worth checking the regulator to make sure that the relays aren't
sticking, and that the contacts are clean, both likely to be the case after 2 
years non-use. If you have the older style regulator in the large black plastic
box, the relays can be adjusted, but the later version was smaller and in a
sealed ally case.

Of course, after 2 years of standing around doing nothing, the battery may have
gone to the big acid house party in the sky.

    I took out the dynamo yesterday. I can't say that Mr. Issigonis' design
    is very user-friendly. After many mean acrobatic attempts at reaching
    the bottom holding nut, I finally copped on to the fact that you need
    to remove the front grille.
    
    Anyway, it turned out the brushes were completely worn and the
    commutator was filthy. New brushes and fine sandpaper and the car is
    now charging fine.
    
    
    Tell me, was the Mini automatic gearbox meant to be a bit clunky on
    change-up? Can it be easily adjusted? I must confess I haven't studied
    the Haynes manual yet.
    
    Billy

   re: .8

   5)Obtain very thin, long arms

    Re pressing brake pedal; if there is a servo, pressing the brake pedal
    will bleed some of the vacuum off, which might have some effect. Not
    sure what, tho.
    
    Minis were designed to be compact. This means to get at anything, you
    have to take everything else off. I once had to replace that little
    bracket which the engine top brace bolts to on the scuttle. This
    involved removing brake and clutch master cylinders, pedal assembly and
    driver's seat.
    
    By the way, the mini autobox is very good, but is a little clunky. Do
    not even _think_ of getting inside it unless you really know what you
    are doing. 
    
    Steve

    
    re .8 and .9 
    
    6) get girlfriend/wife to do the job for you. 

Is this the voice of bitter experience that I hear, Elaine??

	Complaining there's not much room in the mini,  ha,ha,ha,

	not much room, you don't know what that means...............

	Just try a 3.5 V8 in an NG, then you'll know what "not much room"
	really means!


	Heather

    
    re .8, .9 and .11
    
    7)	once the furthest and lowest bolt on the radiator has been 
	removed.  Never replace it.

    8)	obtain a set of car ramps.  Many jobs are easier to tackle from
	underneath.

    9)	remove, strip down, clean out and replace perishable bits of 
	carburettor

   10)  replace perishable bits of hydraulic brake system.

   11)  Remove and clean out water pump.  (They get blocked up with scale
	in old minis !)

The last 3 are preventative.  The problems they cause are nasty and only
occur when you are far from home/shelter and it's pouring with rain :-)

They are also comparitively simple jobs.

    
 >>  10)  replace perishable bits of hydraulic brake system.
    
     ALWAYS replace the bleed nipples once you have managed to undo them!
    (this really goes for any car) they are notorious for seizing into the
    slave cylinders, and/or getting rounded edges. For the sake of 50p per
    wheel it will save an awful lot of grief next time around! 
    

    11)

	Always replace the bypass hose with the real item, not the
	ones available in the car accessory shops.
	This requires the head to be removed, but saves problems
	later ...

 Mark

    
    re point 11, and the bypass hose - if your mini has one of the water
    pumps with the short moulding for the bypass hose to go onto it is 
    possible to replace the hose without removing the head - (still
    requires a bucket of hot water, washing-up liquid or swarfega and a
    lot of swearing though :-) ) - but if the water pump has the longer
    moulding - forget it!  

Having attempted this myself last year, I can appreciate the comments in .16 and
.17.  The question is, why did they make it in such a stupid way in the first
place?

Scott