Conference terri::cars_uk

               { Golf that cuts out on Braking}
    
    HI,
    
    		Don't know if anybody still reads this note, but better late
    than never. The problem with the golf cutting out on Braking is
    quite common. The fault lies with dirt in the carburettor float
    chamber blocking the air emulsion jet {idle}. When you brake hard
    all the crap moves to the front of the chamber and blocks the jet
    hole which is at the front of the carb. This fault is sympton of
    the bigger fault which that older Golfs fuel tanks rust internally
    giving rise to crap in the fuel. So you clean the crab blowing all
    the carp out and it runs ok for a while until you let the tank run
    low,[less than quarter of a tank] and low behold the problems back
    with vengence. Cure is either remove tank and clean out crap...YUK!
    or replace single in line filter with two new ones. I.e. one afher
    another ..so that if the first one doesn't get the crap the second one will.
    These are about #1.50 each and are located near carburettor. Second
    part of fix ....don't let the tank run low.
                                                                            
    		Hope this helps...
    
    				Mike.
    

> .16

>    					So you clean the crab blowing all
>    the carp out and it runs ok for a while until you let the tank run


Sorry but there are errors here incompatible with the stated scenario. Crabs
are strictly salt water creatures and whilst I've no doubt they would enjoy
a bit of carp the latter's habitat is the inland freshwater lake. Neither to
be honest would enjoy a petrolic environment.

-John

PS. I'm not surprised that the crab does get the runs after this harsh 
sort of treatment, wouldn't it be better to use a clawpick or the like?.

    re .17
    
    Obviously you are not aware of the hydrocarbon crab bred by Volkswagen
    for the purpose of keeping the tanks clean of CARP {Crap And Rust
    in Petrol} it is indigenous to Petrol and hydrocarbon enviroments.
    			It is ofhen to be found near North sea oil rigs
    and Hydrocracking plants which is its natural habitat(see Nature
    back editon entitled "Oil Rig Divers and Crabs ..is there a cure?")
    			This can be ordered as a VW option on most
    models just tick the option box marked "Crustacean" be sure to
    order unleaded or leaded depending on your fuel use.
                                                 
    				Mike.....

    
    I'm not sure that the "0" in the 10th April 1990 counts the same as 
    1st April 1990....
    
    :-)

    Ok, anyone got any hints, or do's-and-don'ts before I start work on
    replacing the rear brake shoes on my Golf ?
    
    Few years since i've changed brake shoes so i'm assuming they're still
    the same 'easy to remove the return springs, but damned hard to replace
    the b*gg**s when all you've got is a flat-head screwdriver and skinned
    knuckles'
    
    Oh the joys of DIY - do I *really* want to build my own car ?
    
    AmS

Fit the springs to the shoes before fitting the shoes, then grab the shoes
firmly and pull apart ot fit them in the notches (or whatever...) on the
backplate.  A lot easier than trying to fit the springs afterwards...

In more detail, assuming you have two return springs:

1.  Fit one shoe.
2.  Fit one end of one return spring to that shoe.  Choose the end of the shoe
    that is hardest to fit.
3.  Fit other end of the spring to other brake shoe.
4.  Fit that end of the other brake shoe., using a screwdriver as a lever to
    get it into the right position.
5.  Fit second spring to second end of first shoe.
6.  Fit second spring to second shoe (holding the shoe in a position that makes
    the spring easy to fit).
7.  Use screwdriver to lever the second shoe into position.

Easy...

Scott

    Yeah, and as .-2 mentioned.  Use the long flat screwdriver to lever the
    auto adjustment wedge back down into the groove, through the roadwheel
    bolt hole in the drum.  Don't expect it to automatically do this for
    you!
    
    I failed an MOT because of this (rear wheel not up to required braking
    force), just popped home, levered the spring down and went straight
    back!

    Wow, was I foxed last night.
    
    Took the wheel off, looked at the brake-drum - no little screws to hold
    it on. Looked all over, and finally decided that there had to be
    something under the wheel-bearing grease cap to get the drum off. Sure
    enough, the drum is part of the wheel-bearing assembly !
    
    Off it came and then next surprise. There wasn't two return springs,
    there was four ! Plus little springs going across the backing plate
    which i'm assuming are hand-brake relevant. There were springs all over
    the place.
    
    Luckily there was lots of lining still on the shoes so I was saved the
    swapover for the moment. So then I moved to front discs, expecting the
    pads to be worn which would account for my classic 'sounds like the
    pads need replacing' noise when I brake.
    
    Next surprise, the pads don't pop out of the back of the caliper, as
    I'm used to. It looks like you have to remove the caliper completely to
    extract the pads. - can anyone confirm this for me or am I missing a
    'dust-cover' somewhere ?
    
    Anyway - the front pads looked meaty enough, and feeling round the disc
    there didn't seem to be any scoring or irregular wear.
    
    So...where's this noise coming from ? Suggestions ?
    
    AmS (m = mystified)

    Strikes me you need the Haynes book. Might be a tad more satisfactory
    than the "suck it and see" approach.
    
    Steve

Re: .23

I used to get those sort of noises from excess dust in the rear brake drums.

    Sometimes verey hard pads can cause this problem and usually driving
    along for a mile or less with the brakes very lightly applied will
    burn off the crud thats accumulated. 
    
    I'd be surprised through if your Golf GL was fitted with hard pads.
    Richard.

    Re .26
    
    I thought hard pad was a desease of dogs...
    
    Steve

The front pads could be glazed and that might cause some noise and a decrease
in braking ability.  You do need to remove the calipers (two bolts on the
backside) to remove the pads.

As for replacing rear shoes, I always found it useful to take both wheels
and drums off so you can reference one while putting the other back together.
As stated earlier, a large (long) flat screwdriver and pair of pliers are 
useful for extending the springs.

You also might find it easier to remove the drums if you don't remove the wheel,
but just remove the wheel bearings and retainers.  That way you have more 
leverage to remove and reinstall the drum.

Dave (who's trashing the f/i on his '85 Jetta and fitting a Weber!)

Sierra ad ... "once four wheel drive was mainly for rally cars"

This statement is patently false. When the first (very expensive) 4wd rally 
cars were homologated there were hundreds of thousands of 4wd Land Rovers and 
Jeeps in the world, not to mention several very competant other breeds. Until 
the advent of 4wd "family cars", and possibly not even then, 4wd was "mainly 
for off road work vehicles". I am seriously considering a complaint to the 
advertising standards folks over this blatant piece of copy-writers lying.

/. Ian .\

    
    Re .29
    
    Aside from missing the smiley (I assume), what has .29 got to do with
    VW Golfs?
    
    Mark

	I've heard this horrible noise from the front disks of my
	Polo. It was described to me as a "hard patch" on the pad
	surface. That said, it has mainly happened when that car
	has stood for a day or more, and soon disappears after the
	brakes have been used once or twice.

	On the Polo you do not need to remove the calipers to replace
	the Pads.

	Graham

I wonder if anyone can suggest what is wrong with my 1990 Golf gti. It's done
all off 10,000 miles now without so much as a hicup BUT.... life is never 
that easy!

I get an occasional problem with a very strong smell of petrol hanging round
the car - this can occur when i'm pottering along and I 'take my foot off'
so to speak, or alternatively after pulling up - not necessarily that sharply.
The smell clears fairly quickly then doesn't re-occur for a few days.

Being a lease car it's been into Martins of Basingstoke, they have pronounced
it fit and healthy, no leaks on the fuel lines and petrol tank. All I can say 
is the smell definately comes from under the bonnet, but lifting the bonnet 
to investigate further, the smell seems to lift off and has no obvious source.
Martins say the car is safe however I have noticed that nobody ever asks if 
they can smoke in my car!!

Has anyone on the panel had similar problems with VWs or even possibly suggest
causes of this intermittant problem?

Kev

    As it's a lease car, contact to the lease company, tell them you've
    got no soloution from the garage, that you tyhink it's a potential
    safety risk (the smell MUST be coming from somewhere), and ask them to
    intercede on your behalf, and that you don't want it back until they
    can tell you where the smell is coming from. 
    
    Stress "I can't find anything wrong" is not enough where safety is
    concerned.
    
    Richard

    
    Does anyone have any info on the availability of the rhd G60 ?
    
    Later.
    
    -fv

    re.33
    
    I've noticed the same with my Golf.  Don't know what the cause is, but
    the family never misses complaining about it.  It seems to be most
    apparant when I cold-start the car.

    I'd like to replace the tires on my Golf, but I can't find any useful
    suggestions in the tyre note.  It came with Uniroyals originaly, but
    they slip and slide more than my skis.  Now they're finaly ready to
    be replaced, I'd like something that sticks a bit better.  I don't
    race, but the car shouldn't feel like sliding going around a little
    corner.
    
    Any suggestions ?
    
    David

    Vredsteins?
    

My Golf has Mich. MXV2 they seem to be very surefooted -they have performed 
well in several 'eye ball poping' braking manouvers!

Kev

    I had P600s on my GTi and it slipped and slid all over the joint but i
    soon cured that problem
    
    Somebody stole it on Friday!!!
    
    
    Ian.

Michelins are good all round tyres...not sure how high up the grades they go 
though...

Pirelli 	P600's  - fantastic in the dry, lethal in the wet/damp
Uniroyal	Great in the wet, slippy in the dry (fun !)
Michelin	Good both wet and dry (on lower powered cars)

    My Golf came with Kleber tyres. Absolutely no worries at all in any
    conditions.
    I put winter 'contacts' on for the first time this year - Michelin's,
    same lack of nervousness, great fun in the snow  - only noticable 
    difference is that the winter tyres 'whistle' when you get up to about 
    120Kph on the autoroutes. 
    
    
    AmS

	I'm looking for the name and address of a supplier of metal
	replacement badges for my Golf.

	I've had the circular VW batch nicked from the rear of the
	car twice now. Yes this is still happening and I don't want
	to waste any more hard cash on the plastic replacements.

	I've seen a number of Golfs with a neat, slightly smaller,
	metal version of the badge. I assume I can bolt this metal
	badge through the holes used to clip on the plastic version.

	Any offers?

	Cheers,
		Graham

You could try writing to VW.

I presume their promise to supply replacement badges free of charge still
holds.

    Can anyone help ?
    
    The girlfriend has a Golf, and has been told her CS Boots are twisted.
    
    What are CS boots, is this dangerous, expensive to repair, etc ?
    
    Cheers,
    Andy..

They probably meant the CV joint boots (constant velocity).  As long as the boots
are not ripped to torn (or missing) everything should be okay.  Normally,
they do not get twisted.  Were they recently replaced?  If so, one of the
clamps might not have been tightened all the way.  Check for leaking grease
on and around the boots, if there is some, you've got a leak and that should
be fixed.

Dave

No, they are highly expensive exquisitely crafted moon boots.

These were designed specifically for the space program, and were,
for a limited time, given out free with every VW Golf. The boots
are made of 100% pure Caesium.

Mark.

    In addition to .47...
    
    they are to be found on the shaft driving the front wheels. Jack up and
    support the car, remove the front wheel and take a look at the rubber
    concertina 'boot' surrounding where the shaft enters the back of the
    wheel 'axle'.
    
    As mentioned, if it's split or greasy then get them renewed. If they
    are twisted but sound and relatively clean then it's not much of a
    problem, though I suppose at full lock and under drive they could be
    being stretched and eventually tear. Repositioning them shouldn't be
    too much of a job, depends how they are tightened onto the shaft.
    
    
    Richard

    Read and noted.....Cheers

    Does anyone know what the dwell angle for a VW GOLF 1300 should be.
    
    ta
    Graham.

    	I've just seen the latest VW price list. It includes the Golf
    	Clipper Convertible - is this still the Mk1 body shape?
    
    	Ian.

    Anyone know if VW will retrofit (horrible word, that) electric
    windows to a Golf 1.6 CL???
    
    JJ.

    Re .-1
    
    Most VW garages will fit add on electric windows, but they will not
    be the same as factory supplied.
    
    The only problem is that they still charge VW prices ;-(, and I should
    have a good shop around

    According to VAG UK the electric kits stocked by VW dealers contain the
    *same* components as the factory windows at about 25% of the factory
    price. Because the factory option is so expensive many VW dealers order
    the cars with manual windows and fit the kits themselves (bet they
    don't tell all there customers that - for obvious reasons!).
    
    -Roy
    

    Re .57
    
    Sounds encouraging, I'll give them a ring... now all I need is
    a rev counter and central locking and it'll very nearly be a
    civilised vehicle :-)
    
    JJ.

Hi JJ.,

  I bought Electric Windows for my 3-door MK1 Golf last year, I think
the cost was between 60-90 pounds.  A VAG Mechanic mentioned to me that 
this Electric-Life kit is the real mccoy, with Bosch motors and VAG part 
numbers on everything.  I didn't believe the Salesman when he told me that 
at the time of sale.

  See note 1488.13 for the supplier details.  You might also find
the topic interesting, as it's about fitting a Central Locking kit.

Only one fault to date...
  The drivers side switch had some carbon build up inside and caused
the window not to wind up when I was in a Car Wash!  The suppliers
were excellent at sending a new switch.

  In fairness, I think the cause was my making the contact a little
too hot when soldering the wires to the switch, they are made to take
usual spade terminal connections.  I was making things as small as
possible, as the switches are now inset into the top of the door arms
rests.  I just had to be done!


Well, now it's just the rev counter left for you to bolt on.

Best Regards,
Robert.

    
    Can you expand on the "most awkward situations" bit. Does this refer to
    the windows or is it a little more personnel?
    
    Chris
    

RE: .60

Mike,

I think VW have now got quite up-to-date with the Windows.

One touch operation.  If you holw the key in the drivers 
door after locking it, all open windows shut.  

When you return on that hot summers day and unlock, turning 
a little more will cause all the windows to return to their 
previous open position.

Now where's my cheque book...

Can anyone supply with the engine size for a 1978 Golf L? Choices appear to be
1.1/1.3/1.5/1.6/1.8... i'm leaning between the 1.3 and 1.5.

Thanks


				Lewis.

	I wouldn't get a 1.3...

	Underpowered 1.6 owner.

Err i actually meant "What size engine is in the Golf L?" or can you get 
different ones?

Cheers anyway! ;-)

    
    Get a 2.0 16 V aftermarket! 
    
    Hannu

    
    Can anyone help with this ..I have a C reg GTI and when I put the
    heater on hot and start the engine from cold the temperature gauge
    takes longer to reach the normal position is this a problem or normal
    ...???

    	Surely if you're using the heater to warm the car, it gets the heat
    from the engine which will therefore take longer to reach a certain
    temperature?

    ::OPERATOR.
    
    This is perfectly normal. The heater works in the same way as the
    radiator under the bonnet; it is a heat exchanger, releasing heat to
    the atmosphere, and cooling the contents (water). This is a trick used
    by some people who's cars overheat in the summer, use the heater in
    full blast to avoid boiling over, esopecially when in slow moving
    traffic.
    
    Laurie.

    Although .70 and .71 sound very reasonable I would have thought that
    the Golf engine is equipped with a thermostat ie a valve that keeps
    shut until the engine reaches a certain temperature. 
    
    In fact the water should loop inside the engine block for a while and
    only then (when the valve opens) be allowed to reach both radiators
    (main and heater).
    
    If above works correctly the heater knob position should be irrelevant
    to how quickly the engine warms up.

    Further to .72 - 
    
    It sounds like either the thermostat is stuck open or it has been removed
    completely. This would explain the behaviour.
    
    Roy

           <<< WANLAD::DUA1:[NOTES$LIBRARY.GENERAL]CARS_UK.NOTE;3 >>>
                                  -< Cars UK >-
================================================================================
Note 385.17                       Alloy Wheels                          17 of 17
WSTENG::HICKMAN "Peter Hickman"                       6 lines   2-MAR-1994 10:12
                             -< Alloys for a VW? >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm thinking of replacing the wheels on my VW Golf Cabrio. However some distant
memory of mine says there is something different or odd about VW wheels off-set?
Is this true and if so what should I be looking out for when looking for the new
wheels? Thanks in advance.

Peter.

    
    Any experience of Golf 1.8 without catalysator? (-89) I have one
    now and it has 92 000 km on the clock. No problems so far. Petrol
    consumption is very low and oil consumption=0. Engine seems to be
    more torque that revvy machine, but it certainly is stronger than
    many cars that have those 90 hp "on paper".
    
    Suspension could be lower and tighter.
    
    
    Hannu

    Can anyone please suggest why the following could've happened...
    
    A month ago, my front discs/pads were rubbing, grinding, and making all
    manner of nasty noises.  Not being the mechanical type, I took it (Golf
    mkII, C) down to National tyres who told me that my pads and discs were
    completely screwed.  They replaced them for 90 quid.  Now, they sound
    like they're starting to rub again.  
    
    I've done approx. 1000 miles since the new set were put on, and my
    braking hasn't exactly been over-the-top.  Is it possible that they've
    worn down again?  Surely not!  If it isn't possible, then what else
    could've happened?
    
    Cheers, Matt.
    
    
    p.s.I'm taking it back down there, for them to have a look, but I'd
    like to know what sort of lies they're likely to tell me....
    thx. 

...answering my own note, it's all been dealt with, now.

    a friend is thinking of buying a Golf Mk II "Driver"
    
    what sort of variant is this "Driver" thinggy ?
    
    ric

When I was looking at "driver"s, the ones I came across were 1.6 (It's a 
tarted up CL, rather than a tarted down GL - 1.8) I thought...could be wrong.

The trim level is similar to a GTi.  Basically, it's a relative sheep in 
wolf's clothing, but still has more beans than the 1.3.  H or J reg ones are 
the best to go for, but they all appear to hold their value pretty well.

    thanks guys
    
    ric

    Can anyone recommend a Reading area Garage where I could get a new Cam
    belt and Vee belts fitted -cheaply- to my Golf?  or....can anyone 
    elsewhere recommend a national network that is likely to have a branch 
    down here.
    
    I was quoted 43 pounds for the cam belt (fitted) from Lucas Autocentres, 
    but a friend has had nothing but trouble from their shoddy workmanship, 
    so I'm a tad reluctant to take my pride and joy down there...
    
    btw, Royal Berks. VW dealers quoted something ridiculous like 140 quid,
    so they're out of the picture.
    
    Thanks,
    M

    When I had a VW, I couldn't afford Royal Berks prices, so I went to
    Autovolks, who are on the trading estate behind the Battle Hospital.
     cheers
     DaveT

    Anyone know offhand the capacity of the fuel tank on the new Golf ?
    Not car related, but....  how many litres in a gallon ?
    
    Thanks
    
    paul (working out the mpgs !)
    

Matt's crude mpg method;
========================

4.5 litres to the gallon.  Not sure of the mkIII Golf tank, though.  I work my 
mpg out by filling the tank, setting the milo to 0, then filling it again when 
it gets a bit empty.  The cost of this second lot of petrol can then be used 
against the number of miles you've done.

e.g. 

full tank
milo 0
.
.
.
.
milo 280
refill tank.  Costs 22.00, so approx mpg has been 22.00/2.38= 9.2
						    280/9.2=  30.4mpg

hth,
m.

On my GTi the manual states the tank capacity to be 55 litres

Dave

    
    Golf hatches - 12.1 galls
    Golf estates - 13.2 galls
    
    Richard.

    Muchos....

	4.546 litres/UK gallon