T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
---|
544.85 | Autocavan | CRATE::LEVELL | | Fri Jan 05 1990 16:07 | 11 |
| re note 544.15:
Could it be Autocavan not Autocaravan you're looking for. Autocavan
sell Voltswagon copy parts, and are based in Aldershot, phone number
27627.
Hope this helps
Carol Levell
The Crescent, Basingstoke
|
544.86 | Is this watt you mean ? | IJSAPL::CAMERON | Yesterday was worse than tomorrow | Fri Jan 05 1990 16:17 | 7 |
| > sell Voltswagon copy parts, and are based in Aldershot, phone number
^^^^^
Is this Volkswagen's new electric car ?
Gordon :-)
|
544.87 | Any good ? | HEAD::BOPS_RICH | What Ho !, Holsten brewery yet? | Wed Jan 10 1990 16:09 | 5 |
| Has anyone ever bought anything from Autocavan for their Golf ?
(Or know of anyone who has ?)
Rich.
|
544.88 | I have -ish | SHAPES::STREATFIELDC | WIZARD STUFF | Wed Jan 10 1990 16:34 | 8 |
| I haven't bought for a golf from Autocavan, but I have bought quite a
few bits for Air-cooled Vw's from autocavan, Their range is quite
large, and quality didn't seem to be too bad either, prices, cheaper
than VAG, and have more custom/old stock than VAG.
Trouble is, the Farnham branch ina bit fiddly to find!
Carl.
|
544.89 | Lost - one shop. | HEAD::BOPS_RICH | What Ho !, Holsten brewery yet? | Wed Jan 10 1990 20:08 | 3 |
| Too right John ! I couldn't find it.
Give us a hint ?
|
544.90 | I accept no liability for miss-direction!. | SHAPES::STREATFIELDC | WIZARD STUFF | Fri Jan 12 1990 12:31 | 19 |
| I hope this reply is not too late,please forgive me for the delay.
coming along the Hogs back, ( I know it best from this way) from an
easterly direction, you go past the Hogs back Hotel, carry on untill
you get to a windey "s" bend, I think you go down a small hill to it,
After this you come to a narrow piece of the road,with a couple of
houses/pub, and with a small local garage/petrol station on the left,
and on the right there is a turning, take this, It is very small and
winding, you will come to a set of traffic lights(and houses), straight
accross, and it is about 100/200 yards on your right, but still hardly
signposted!, it looks a bit like A CARAVAN SITE!, there are usually a
few beetles sprinkled around the place to guide you!
Good luck, I seem to remember getting lost the first 2 times I went
there!
Carl.
off
|
544.91 | Get your balls off my green... | RUTILE::SMITH_A | I'm of a mind.... | Sun Jan 14 1990 20:02 | 15 |
| Maybe the wrong place but....
can anyone recommend a good guide/manual for Golf's. Not GTi's but
the standard form. I have a Golf Memphis which is a French 'special'
run, basically standard running gear but different trim. I'd like
to get a bit more info on the engine and running gear than is provided
in the owners guide, so that i can fix things myself when necessary,
but looking around the carb its got more pipes and tubes coming
off it than an american 'soap' hospital patient
Back in the old days of running a Ford i'd get a Haynes manual which
generally seem to explain things in easily understood terms (hit
nut A with hammer B etc..)
Any suggestions ?
|
544.92 | | SUBURB::SCREENER | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Tue Jan 16 1990 16:41 | 8 |
| I don't know which size engine you have, but I have read both HAYNES
manuals for the MK1 golf. I think that the manual for the
smaller (1.1, 1.3) engines is easier to read, as it attempts to
cover less model variants (blue binder). However the manual for
larger engines also covers Scirocos (sp?) and Jettas, also American
versions of the Golf (with emmision controls) is had a brown binder.
Rob.
|
544.93 | | SWEEP::ALFORD | ...civil servant of Gor | Wed Jan 17 1990 15:42 | 10 |
|
I currently have a GOLF Haynes manual (1.3cl) was what I got it for, it's OK to
use, apart from the Haynes habit of saying "now just unclip the part..." (which
invariably needs a large amount of leverage to remove :-)) it's not too bad.
I think it covers up to "A" registration. If that's the one you want, I could
lend or sell or come to some other arrangement...with my copy, send me a mail
if you, or anyone else is interested.
J.
|
544.94 | Haynes by two submissions... | RUTILE::SMITH_A | I'm of a mind.... | Thu Jan 18 1990 11:56 | 5 |
| Thanks for both replies, but the car is a '90 model and 1.8 engine.
At least you've both indorsed my old faith in Haynes.
Cheers
Tony.
|
544.95 | Clutch change cost | SUBURB::SCREENER | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Fri Jan 26 1990 15:46 | 10 |
| What cost can I expect to pay for a new clutch to be fitted to my
1.8 MK1 GTI? It seems to have trouble biting for a brief second
under full accelleration when changing up into 3rd (very important on
B roads for overtaking after a r'bout).
I would loke to have a go at it, but it's constantly raining/cold/dark
and I have heard that it can be hard work.
Thanks in advance,
Rob "who doesn't like being rained on or cold".
|
544.96 | How 'free' is free? | TRON::MITCHELL | Elaine | Fri Jan 26 1990 16:21 | 10 |
|
Some of these 'one-stop' type places sometimes offer clutches 'fitted
free' - I've never tried them. - BUT I would check the price they are
charging for the clutch itself before deciding how 'free' the fitting
really is!
Also, I've no idea on the quality of workmanship, but from some of my
experiences with exhaust fittings I would approach with caution!
Elaine
|
544.97 | Raid the piggy bank time | HEAD::BOPS_RICH | What Ho !, Holsten brewery yet? | Fri Jan 26 1990 18:55 | 4 |
| 'bound to be #200 plus - my VAG garage charges @25 per hour, and
all genuine parts are well expensive. 8^(
Rich.
|
544.98 | Try Autovolks? | VANISH::BROWNM | | Mon Jan 29 1990 12:57 | 10 |
544.99 | exit | IOSG::ROBERTSN | Drive a Volkswagen, fly a rental | Thu Feb 15 1990 13:44 | 6 |
| Are there any 16v owners out there?
Is it true that is is normal for the oil consumption to be high in the
first 10,000 miles (e.g. 2 litres in 1600 miles). Why??
Nigel
|
544.100 | It's true | WOTVAX::MEAKINS | Clive Meakins | Fri Feb 16 1990 16:38 | 16 |
| -.1> Is it true that is is normal for the oil consumption to be high in the
> first 10,000 miles (e.g. 2 litres in 1600 miles).
Yes, extremly high oil consumption, especially for the first 2,000
miles. I needed to check my oil every 200 - 400 miles with motorway
trips being the major problem. This appears to be typical. Stories of
the oil level being off the dipstick are not uncommon - I was close.
Having 22,000 on the clock now I only need an occaisonal top-up, do
check the level if you do a high speed long run. I'd better not define
what I mean by high speed - if you know what I mean!
> Why??
The engine compartment shouldn't rust, its got a fine coating of oil.
Why it's built like this, I can't say.
|
544.101 | Check oil often | VANDAL::BROWNM | | Mon Feb 19 1990 16:47 | 12 |
| Yes, they do seem to use a lot of oil. The official answer is that the hard
piston rings used in the 16V engine need a lot of miles to bed in properly.
You may or may not choose to believe this.
It is also possible that the extra valve guide oil seals cause more loss and I
guess it's possible that VW choose to have the engine consume oil (ie wider
piston to bore tolerances) for some engineering reason.
I expect the oil to get burnt; if it's sparying over the engine compartment,
you've got a problem! What you see is, I think, the protective wax coating.
Mike.
|
544.102 | | GVA01::STIFF | Paul Stiff, EHQIM-OIS DTN:821 4167 | Wed Feb 21 1990 17:30 | 13 |
| What is interesting is that VW only "prescribe" the first oil change
at 15'000 Km, if the piston rings are bedding in, they are loosing
some of their volume, are they not ? and that 'volume" ends up in
the oil.
We took my brother's 16v staight from the dealer's to Holland (1200
Km) and we used about 1.25 litres of oil on the way up, a bit less
on the way down.
The car now has 13'000 Km and uses much less... (same story as previous
note).
|
544.103 | Oil Change Frequency? | SUBURB::SCREENER | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Wed Feb 21 1990 21:08 | 12 |
544.104 | US info | OASS::BURDEN_D | No! Your *other* right! | Wed Feb 21 1990 23:08 | 9 |
| Well, I have the US version 8 valve GTI engine (1.8 liter, 90 hp). Oil
and filter ought to be changed every 3k miles, but depending on how
many rallies I do, it may get changed more often.
I use Castrol GTX 20w50 in the summer and 20w40 in the winter, but I
recently moved from New Hampshire to Georgia so will probably keep
20w50 in it year 'round.
Dave
|
544.105 | 5k miles | VANDAL::BROWNM | | Thu Feb 22 1990 14:41 | 7 |
| Tha handbook recommends changing the oil every 10000 miles. I change my oil
and filter every 5000 miles. May prevent some damage and only costs about
12 pounds. I use VW filters and conventional SG oil, although I am trying VWs
synthetic at present as I bought it cheap at VW Action. Usually I buy oil
(Duckhams) in B&Q as it's cheaper than a filling station.
Mike.
|
544.106 | re -1 | SHAPES::STREATFIELDC | VW Beetle.. IOSG::AIR_COOLED | Thu Feb 22 1990 16:11 | 5 |
| You went to VW Action too eh?
I cant remember seeing that many Golfs, apart from a couple of Demon
Tweeks jobs!
Carl.
|
544.107 | Less lube | VULCAN::BOPS_RICH | You never give me your money, ... | Thu Feb 22 1990 17:25 | 7 |
| I've got synthetic in my 8v - it was like that when I bought it
second-hand. The car uses almost no oil whatsoever, and apart from
its last service (40,000), I,ve never topped it up !
Probably something wrong !!!
Rich.
|
544.108 | Oil
Oil
| VANDAL::BROWNM | | Thu Feb 22 1990 19:45 | 4 |
| 8v Golfs don't use oil unless they have a problem - usually worn
valve guide oil seals at 40-50k miles.
Mike.
|
544.109 | Pet subject. | TASTY::JEFFERY | What's the slipperiest thing you can think of? | Thu Feb 22 1990 19:49 | 6 |
| I noticed an F reg Golf GTI 16V smoke really badly when pulling away from the
lights.
Seems like they have something in common with XR2's
Mark.
|
544.110 | Ta | VULCAN::BOPS_RICH | You never give me your money, ... | Fri Feb 23 1990 13:56 | 7 |
| re .108
cheers for the good news. Now if only I can get the drifting
to the left sorted out, and misfiring when cold, and keep my licence
after the court case, I'd be REALLY HAPPY.
Rich
|
544.111 | Reshimming the valves... | OSI::HARPER | John Harper, DTN 830 3647 | Thu Apr 26 1990 23:58 | 9 |
544.112 | Weber "BIG THROAT ?" | ZPOV03::SEOWHURN | | Fri May 04 1990 04:59 | 13 |
|
Has anyone tried using the Weber "Big Throat" or the Neuspeed Throttle
Body ? They are supposed to be extra big throttle bodies for the fuel
injection system and will "increase the hp by 10%". There are even
intake manifolds especially machined ported, polished for the Neuspeed
contraption and will "give an extra 7 - 10 hp". (I saw all these in a
US car magazine).
Are they suitable for a European spec GTI or GLI ? Do they really work
?
SH
|
544.113 | stick with VW parts | WARLRD::BURDEN_D | No! Your *other* right! | Fri May 04 1990 18:21 | 16 |
| What year Golf/Jetta? For the Mk I versions, the throttle body
off the Mk II Scirocco is supposed to work just as well. Trying
to use a Mk II Golf/Jetta TB on a Mk I car is a bit difficult because
they've swithed the orientation of the intake manifold, but the
Scirocco's wasn't.
Also, certain ones from Audi are supposed to work (80, 90 and maybe
100)
If it's for a Mk II version, I'm not sure, haven't got one to play
with.
Dave
PS - all this is for US version cars, but I think it should apply
to Euro spec ones as well.
|
544.114 | "It's a Mk I" | ZPOV03::SEOWHURN | | Fri May 04 1990 18:30 | 4 |
| It's a Mk I Jetta GLI. Will the throttle body off the Mk II Scirocco
improve the performance ?
SH
|
544.115 | it otta work | WARLRD::BURDEN_D | No! Your *other* right! | Fri May 04 1990 20:56 | 10 |
| Let's both try it and see! I have a Mk I Golf GTI (US spec) and
I am adding the Mk II Scirocco TB to my list of parts to acquire.
I'm getting a used Grp A (rally) head for it next week and in addition
to a lightened flywheel and heavy duty motor mounts, I'm planning
to fit the TB soon.
Basically what I've told you is what I've been told by a knowledgeable
source. I'm going to try it and will let you know what I find out.
Dave
|
544.116 | Timing,dwell angle and spark plug gap ? | ZPOV03::SEOWHURN | | Fri May 11 1990 17:37 | 8 |
|
Can anyone out there tell me the timing, dwell angle and the spark plug
clearance gap for a 83 European spec Jetta 1 GLI (1588cc). I guess it must
be the same as the Golf GTI (1588cc). Bought the car without a handbook
and couldn't find the Haynes manual for the Jetta. Guess they aren't
very popular out here.
Thanks in advance.
|
544.117 | If the indicator glows... | SUBURB::SCREENER | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Mon Nov 05 1990 20:38 | 18 |
| Did you know if the 10amp Indicator Fuse is blown, the green indicator LED
in the instrument panel glows. When you then swich on a turn signal, the
light goes on permanently and the indicators do not blink.
This took many hours of troubleshooting this past weekend, the fault
appeared after dismantaling the dash to cure a slight resonance inside.
When I tested the fuse (without removing it from the fuse box), it read
ok, because I was reading another way through the circuit!
Ah well, I learnt something that day...
Rob.
p.s. Wonder how much a new VW instrument cluster part would have been
from the dealers (including the fuel computer, rev counter, etc...) if I had
actually broken the thing, like I suspected for a good few hours?
p.p.s Did the previous note get a reply elswhere?
|
544.118 | When do you renew your timing belt? | SUBURB::SCREENER | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Wed Feb 06 1991 23:17 | 12 |
| After reading the recnet notes about timing belts breaking, I am
rethinking changing my timing belt on the Golf.
I phoned the VAG Garage when I bought the car (at 69K miles), and asked
about timing belt lifetimes. Their reply was that the belts are very
reliable and can be left alone.
What have you other VW owners done with yours?
Cheers,
Robbie.
p.s. Touch wood!
|
544.119 | | KAOA11::LAVIGNE | | Thu Feb 07 1991 00:16 | 5 |
| not that I own a VW, but my MAZDA gets its' timing belt replaced every
96,000 km. It's about the only service I strictly adhere to. It just
went through its second change.
Hope yours dosen't decide to quit soon.
JP
|
544.120 | | GWYNED::BURTON | | Thu Feb 07 1991 15:25 | 10 |
| RE: Timing beltschange on VWs
Check the CARBUFFS notefile on this. There was just a series of notes in there
about a VW where the belt let go and the valves banged the pistons. The labour
alone was close to US$400. A note this morning said that exhaust valves cost
around $181 *each* here in the US. A belt change costs around $125 over here.
It's your car. You make the decision on how much risk you are willing to
assume.
Jim
|
544.121 | VW cam belt changes
| NEWOA::BROWNM | | Thu Feb 07 1991 15:49 | 8 |
| You don't hear much about VW cam belts breaking unlike Fords or Peugeots, but
I did change mine at about 40k mikes when I fixed a head gasket leak. I was
thinking that it might be time to change it again as the engine has now done
81k miles. It's an easy if fiddly job on the Golf, the main problem being to
get the three timing marks lined up correctly and keep them that way while
fitting the belt.
Mike.
|
544.122 | ...from the American file | GWYNED::BURTON | | Thu Feb 07 1991 16:14 | 48 |
| <<< DLOACT::APP$DISK:[NOTES$LIBRARY]CARBUFFS.NOTE;1 >>>
-< Carbuffs >-
================================================================================
Note 180.720 VW Note 720 of 770
RECYCL::MCBRIDE 15 lines 24-JAN-1991 08:07
-< Some good news on timing belt >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I received a call from the dealer (Rick Starr) yesterday with an
estimate on the timing belt and associated damage. Bracing myself for
extremely bad news, I was more than pleasantly surprised at the service
I received. I appears the Service Manager contacted VWoA and
negotiated a parts/labor split. VWoA agreed to pick up the parts with
"customer participation on the labor charges". Considering the plight
I was/am in with the car firmly out of warranty, and neglecting a
maintenance item, I feel pretty good about how this is turning out. My
bill has been estimated at $250.00 - $300.00 for the labor. The parts
may include a minimum of 8 valves and possibly two pistons. I don't
know what this would be but it doesn't appear that I will have to pay
it. The funny thing in all of this is I did not whine, whimper, beg or
cajole the service folks to follow through like this.
Brian
<<< DLOACT::APP$DISK:[NOTES$LIBRARY]CARBUFFS.NOTE;1 >>>
-< Carbuffs >-
================================================================================
Note 180.732 VW Note 732 of 770
SASE::SZABO "I play just what I feel" 19 lines 25-JAN-1991 12:36
-< What Bentley says about changing the camshaft drive belt... >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
According to my Robert Bentley `Volkswagon Fox Service Manual':
The [camshaft drive] belt is installed for the life of the engine.
However, to guard against unexpected failure, the publisher
recommends periodic inspection of the belt, as well as the
additional precaution of belt replacement at 60,000 to 70,000
miles (96,000 to 120,000 km) or every 4 to 5 years.
I haven't checked my owner's manual yet, but the part about "installed
for the life of the engine" suggests that VW doesn't consider
replacement necessary at all. That's strange, especially since many VW
owners tend to change them at ~60K mile intervals anyway...
Also, did the VW 1.7L engines also "require" belt changing? I ask this
because my Omni 1.7L (VW, basically) engine went 150K miles without any
belt changings, and still ran beautifully when I sold it...
John
|
544.123 | Variable Wiper Delay | SUBURB::SCREENER | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Tue Mar 12 1991 16:36 | 29 |
544.125 | Let's take it further ... | POMROL::KENNEDY_C | | Tue Mar 12 1991 17:02 | 6 |
|
Buy a Porsche, variable wipe from 1 - ~60 seconds. (also 3 speeds)
Must admit, sounds like a good idea though. What we really need is a
sensor on the screen, for all wipe modes.
|
544.126 | GTI International | SUBURB::SCREENER | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Tue Mar 12 1991 21:19 | 12 |
| Wow, what an idea:
Automatic wipers, lights, seat recognition, engine tuning.
Bet they can't manage an automatic gearchange though!
Isn't the Maestro the car which tried to chat to you or something?
Personally I would go without a lot of drivewr comforts before I would
live with that!
Now, don't forget to buy those discount advance tickets for GTI
International in May, at the Road Research place in Crowthorn.
|
544.127 | | COMICS::TRAYLER | | Fri Mar 15 1991 14:51 | 5 |
| Re .123 the variable wiper thingy
Sounds really useful, where do I get one/ is it easy to fit?
Kev
|
544.128 | Through Audi VW Car | SUBURB::SCREENER | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Mon Mar 18 1991 16:34 | 27 |
544.130 | | SUBURB::SCREENER | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Sun Apr 21 1991 18:38 | 5 |
| If the pictures in Auto Express are anything to go by...
The old ones will be worth more when the new one is released!
|
544.132 | | SHAWB1::HARRISC | Not very nice at all | Tue Jun 04 1991 10:57 | 7 |
544.133 | | NSDC::SIMPSON | | Tue Jun 04 1991 11:57 | 16 |
544.134 | | SUBURB::SCREENER | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Tue Jun 04 1991 17:00 | 17 |
544.135 | | TURB0::art | catch me if I fall | Tue Jun 04 1991 17:02 | 4 |
| the 8v is quite a bit cheaper to insure than the 16v version too.
...art
|
544.136 | Should I or shouldn't I ? | SHIPS::ORCHARD_T | Neither cheap nor cheerful | Thu Jul 04 1991 18:07 | 17 |
| Somewhere back in this particular topic the subject of decent shocks
for the Gti came up.
My Gti 'seems' to roll quite a lot - but then my previous car was a
Porsche with sports suspension. it has 47k miles on the clock and was
an company car before I had it (a firm of auditors), so it was
regularly serviced in terms of engine, but what about the shocks ?
My question:
Does the team think that it would be worth my while investing in
some Konis, or should I go for decent tyres (or perhaps I should
go the whole hog and do both) ?
Tony O.
P.S. Fatuous remarks will get the tongue-lashing they deserve :-)
|
544.137 | I'll burn *you* up, no trouble ! | CRATE::RAWSON | Fnarr! Fnarr! | Thu Jul 04 1991 18:33 | 8 |
| > My Gti 'seems' to roll quite a lot - but then my previous car was a
I would get rid of that god awful towbar that you've got on the back
of that crate !
Alex :^)
PS Your windscreen is knackered !
|
544.138 | | JUNO::WOOD | Pooh didn't use a blindfold | Thu Jul 04 1991 18:39 | 17 |
|
Tony,
My recommandation is if the shocks are suspect, then you would be well
advised to change them, as this can have quite a noticable effect on the car.
Are your current tyres in need of replacement ? If not then my policy is
is to leave them until they are nearing replacement time before wondering about
what to do replace them with. If they are, then maybe it would be a good idea
to wait till the shocks are replaced (if you do change them) before deciding
whether you need to get a different size tyre. As far as tyres goes, it is a
good idea to get a decent make, problem is there is still a wide choice !!!!
Alan
~~~~~~
|
544.139 | This was dictated by CRATE::WATSON | CRATE::RAWSON | Fnarr! Fnarr! | Thu Jul 04 1991 18:46 | 3 |
| Better idea ! Keep the shocks and replace the car ! :^)
Alex
|
544.140 | | METSYS::WINNETT | Oui 3 Ski - I'd rather be skiing | Thu Jul 04 1991 20:28 | 9 |
| Well, ignoring the comments about getting another car, I have the Bilstein
sports suspension pack on my MKII GTi and have found it very good - basically
different springs & shockers - only problems have been due to reduced ride
height (about 2" lower than the standard GTi) when the tyres can rub the
wheel arches if a pothole is hit at high speed. Now I'm coming up to 100k miles
(December 86 D Reg) and I am thinking about replacing the shock absorbers (the
garage say that they are ok, but the ride doesn't seem as stiff as it used to).
Nigel
|
544.142 | | METSYS::WINNETT | Oui 3 Ski - I'd rather be skiing | Tue Aug 27 1991 15:33 | 10 |
| Keith,
I was under the impression that the '87 Gti's did NOT have the hardened valve
seats required to run unleaded - does it specifically state in your owners
handbook that you can (or has your local VW garage told you so) ??
I would stay on the safe side and run 4* until you know for definate.....
Nigel
|
544.143 | Digifant EM | SUBURB::SCREENER | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Tue Aug 27 1991 16:19 | 20 |
| Hi Keith,
Since D-reg, the 8-valve GTI's have had Digifant Engine Management.
I understand this has the appropriate knock sensor and can retard
ignition timing itself.
I'd be very surprised if your's didn't have hardened valve seats.
Check with the dealer to be sure though. Try the VAG dealer in Reading,
Royal Berks Motors. Tel. (0734) 666111
There is reported to be a slight difference in performance using
unleaded. You could used 'Super-Green' petrol without the performance
loss.
Cheers,
Robert.
BTW. My '83 vintage GTI is temporarily on a diet of 4-star until I
isolate the cause of some pinking under slight throttle openings.
|
544.145 | All or nothing | TIMMII::RDAVIES | An amateur expert | Thu Aug 29 1991 16:24 | 18 |
| >> <<< Note 544.144 by PAKORA::KCORMACK "The want syndrome sufferer " >>>
>> -< VW runs better lead free..... >-
> Got home and delved out a What Car supplement on which cars can and
>> can't be run on unleaded. The supplement said you could the Golf on
>> unleaded. What it didn't say was should I be mixing them. The car runs
>> much better on unleaded.
The reason for mixing leaded and unleaded is if you don't have hardened
valve seats (if you don't the higher temperatures of unleaded will burn
them away). If the car doesn't have hardened seats then it's regarded
as not suitable and would be identified as such.
These magazines don't just look at the timing, they also look at the
valve seats. So if it say no, it's completely no, and if it says yes
it's completely yes, no need to mix (and let's face it, if you can use
unleaded there shouldn't be any excuse why you don't.)
Richard
|
544.146 | go green! | METSYS::REID | write execute delete | Fri Aug 30 1991 21:00 | 3 |
| I have an '87 GTI, and run on unleaded all the time no problem.
Performance seems marginally better with super unleaded. I have
never put in leaded fuel.
|
544.147 | Buying second-hand | KERNEL::ROE | Three Sixteen..Know what I mean John? | Mon Nov 25 1991 12:39 | 15 |
544.148 | You're paying more from a dealership, but I think its worth it | MARVIN::STRACHAN | Graham Strachan CBN-Reading 830-4752 | Mon Nov 25 1991 15:37 | 29 |
544.149 | Decision-making? No problem :-) | KERNEL::ROE | Three Sixteen..Know what I mean John? | Mon Nov 25 1991 16:50 | 16 |
544.150 | 16v + 8v | KERNEL::SHELLEYR | There are always options | Mon Nov 25 1991 17:49 | 5 |
| I know you like Golfs Mike, but how many do you need :-)
Are you chucking in the lease scheme or is it a pressie for the mrs ?
Roy
|
544.151 | ....but she's paying :-) | KERNEL::ROE | Three Sixteen..Know what I mean John? | Mon Nov 25 1991 18:45 | 1 |
| Christmas is coming early this year for 'er indoors!
|
544.152 | What to look for... | NSDC::SIMPSON | | Mon Nov 25 1991 21:59 | 22 |
| Mine's '86, with 90,000 miles on the clock, and running up about 1500 miles
per month.
Things to look out for:
- Seat wear. I've got a big bum, and it is wearing out the side support on
the seat. I've put an unsightly patch on it to stop it getting worse.
- Back brake discs (not pads) looking corroded. The Golf doesn't put enough
wear 'n tear on the back brakes, so oxidation occurs. Mine are badly
marked - however they work just fine.
.
.
.
Ummm... can't think of anything else that's gone badly wrong. I've replaced
the battery and had a hiccoughing fuel pump that needed replacing, but
that is all. Mechanically, it just goes and goes and goes...
Cheers
Steve
|
544.153 | | NEWOA::ALFORD_J | The intermission fish... | Wed Nov 27 1991 14:10 | 10 |
|
With regard to the VAG Warranty....
In my experience, it's not really worth the paper it's written on.
There's a book that's so loaded with small print of what's not covered by the
warranty, that it's 2 inches thick.
They don't tell you about this book when they sell you the warranty though, you
only come across it when you try to claim off it.
|
544.155 | | KERNEL::ROE | Three Sixteen..Know what I mean John? | Mon Dec 02 1991 11:39 | 7 |
| Hi Keith,
thanks for the reply. I wonder what the insurance hit will be for
young_ish-at-heart folks like me and she! They will probably slap a
loading factor on our premium because we're old and crumblies!
:-)
|
544.156 | exhaust | RDGE44::ALEUC7 | | Tue Dec 24 1991 12:30 | 12 |
| re .147
> Q2 What critical areas should I check on the car?
I should check the exhaust - in my experience, the original exhaust
lasts about 5 years.
> Q3 Any hints on best-value financing and/or insurance?
The Co-op and Frizell are the cheapest 2 I found this year for insurance.
Carol
|
544.157 | Engine Mounting problem | MARVIN::STRACHAN | Graham Strachan CBN-Reading 830-4752 | Mon Jan 20 1992 12:13 | 16 |
|
I've got a 1988 VW Golf GTi (8 Valve).
Yesterday I accelerated in third gear, on a straight section of
road, to change up to fourth. I did'nt make it to fourth as there
was a very loud bang from the front of the car.
To cut a long story short, the front engine mounting broke. I've
been told by the VAG garage that this is very rare on any of their
cars, but especially a car that's only done 50,000 miles.
Anyone have a similar experience?
Graham
PS I was very impressed with the VW "On Call" recovery service.
|
544.158 | | SUBURB::SCREENER | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Mon Jan 20 1992 21:43 | 5 |
| Graham,
Will VW pay for the dry cleaning?
Rob. 8-)
|
544.159 | | MARVIN::STRACHAN | Graham Strachan CBN-Reading 830-4752 | Mon Jan 20 1992 21:48 | 9 |
|
No but they are paying for a Hire Car while mine waits for
the new part. So rare that they don't carry the spare at a
main dealership repair centre.
I think this is great service for what is a second hand car
for me.
Graham
|
544.160 | Just for information ... | NEWOA::ORCHARD_T | OH NO!! Tony's back again !! | Tue Feb 25 1992 16:14 | 14 |
| A few weeks ago, the battery got flattened on my '87 E-reg (lights left
on all day) It killed the clock/computer because the car had to be
jump-started (and I had to program the radio stations back in ).
I eventually 'phoned AUTOVOLKS and they suggested disconnecting the
battery and re-connecting it saying that sometimes cures it.
I tried it over the weekend and - hey presto ! - I've got my clock and
ever-so-handy-and-amazingly-ccurate fuel computer back.
It seems that the gradual buildup of charge from a flat battery wasn't
registered by the clock and so it didn't re-boot itself.
That's the end of this week's handy fact on Golf Gti's
|
544.161 | Taken for a ride ?? | SEDSWS::WILLMOTT | | Thu Mar 05 1992 16:25 | 10 |
|
Just after Christmas somebody stuck a screwdriver or something into
the Drivers side door lock of my Gti, I think I might of disturbed them
as the alarm didn't go off and nothing was taken.
This week it was repaired at Binnies in Epsom, but the trouble is they
told me they had to replace the whole lock and now I've got one key for
the door and one for the ignition !! Is this standard or are they
pulling my pilsner ??
Chris
|
544.162 | you can oder them | YUPPY::SACKMANJ | I was dreaming of the past... | Thu Mar 05 1992 16:33 | 7 |
| I had the same thing happen to my Astra and the garage told me I could
order the same lock IF I knew the lock number. Luckily I did but the
lock apparently had to be manufactured specifically! perhaps thats why
it took them 9 weeks to get it!!!
Jon.
|
544.163 | LOCK SETS | YUPPY::ELLAWAY | Martin Ellaway@hhl | Thu Mar 05 1992 17:35 | 6 |
|
I don't know if its the case with all makes but with renault you can
get complete lock sets si everything remains the same.
Martin
|
544.164 | "Rip off" Alarm !!! | LARVAE::DRSD17::GALVIN | you're innocent when you dream...... | Thu Mar 05 1992 18:00 | 2 |
|
My wife had the same thing done. She just had the door skin repaired
|
544.165 | | SUBURB::SCREENER | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Mon Mar 09 1992 11:46 | 17 |
544.166 | | VOGON::NUTLEY | | Fri May 08 1992 13:08 | 4 |
| Anyone know when this years VW 'GTI International' takes place at
the TRRL Crowthorne? Last year was 11/12th May.
-Roy
|
544.167 | 9th and 10th May 1992 | SUBURB::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Fri May 08 1992 17:39 | 15 |
| Roy,
It's tomorrow and Sunday; May 9th and 10th. 9am-5pm both days.
Transport and Road Research Laboratory, Crowthorn, Berkshire.
o Concours d'elegance opens 9.30am on Sunday, entries till 12.30pm.
o The Quarter-Mile sprint will now have 10 classes, I wonder if anyone
will have the guts to race a VR6 engined Golf or Corrado?
o VAG (UK) will be providing two new MK3 Golf GTI's for use in the
Slalom course.
Aparently, the TRRL will have a new name by now.
Rob.
|
544.168 | | VOGON::NUTLEY | | Fri May 08 1992 18:36 | 3 |
| Thanks Rob,
-Roy
|
544.169 | Mk III GTi??? | IOSG::DUTT | Nigel Dutt | Thu Jul 30 1992 21:56 | 4 |
| Any first-hand comments or opinions on the Mk III GTI, especially
compared with the Mk II?
Thanks - Nigel
|
544.170 | Clicking noise below 2000 rpm for PB engine ? | ZPOVC::SEOWHURN | | Thu Sep 03 1992 16:17 | 29 |
| Hi,
does anyone else have this experience ?
It's actually a '89 Jetta GTX, which I believe has the same engine as a
Golf GTI, engine code PB with Digifant and hydraulic valve lifters.
It's been giving me fairly loud clicking noises below 2000 rpm.
Usually past 2000rpm it's gone. It sounds like the same clicking noise
with the earlier solid lifter engine except that it's louder and goes
away. Usually, once the engine is fully warmed up it's greatly reduced
in volume.
I've checked with the Volkswagen Area Workshop Manager (over the phone)
and he described the problem to me exactly and said that it was due to the
hydraulic valve lifters and that it's a common problem and to ignore
it as it did not cause any problems.
I'm puzzled as I didn't remember having that problem when I was test
driving a '86 Golf GTI.
Besides isn't the hydraulic lifters supposed to be quieter ? Or do I
not have a hydraulic lifter engine ??
Has anyone encountered the same problem ? Any known way to cure it ?
It's more irritating than other thing else.
Seow-Hurn
|
544.171 | | KERNEL::FISCHERI | I've got a special purpose | Thu Sep 03 1992 16:29 | 5 |
| Does anyone know if and when the mk3 cabrio is coming out?
Ian
|
544.172 | | ULYSSE::CHEVAUX | Patrick Chevaux @VBE, DTN 828-5584 | Thu Sep 03 1992 17:06 | 8 |
544.173 | | IOSG::WDAVIES | There can only be one ALL-IN-1 Mail | Thu Sep 03 1992 19:04 | 3 |
| Whats the best way of getting 2nd VWs ?
Winton
|
544.174 | | VANGA::KERRELL | Dave Kerrell @REO 830-2279 | Thu Sep 03 1992 20:40 | 6 |
| re.173:
Although stealing is growing in popularity I recommend buying as the best way to
get a 2nd VW.
Dave.
|
544.175 | Oilways Blocked until pressure is up. | SUBURB::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Thu Sep 03 1992 23:02 | 10 |
| RE: .170
Yeah, I have read about a few problems with hydraulic tappets. It's
the small oil ways to each tappet which get blocked. A solution to
this is to use some good flushing oil at your next service.
I can probably dig out an article of this exact problem, send me a mail
with your internal address if you would like it.
Robert Screene @REO
|
544.176 | Experiences ? Recommendations on shocks/exhaust | ZPOVC::SEOWHURN | | Mon Sep 07 1992 10:51 | 22 |
| Thanks for the info.
Did anyone suffer from this problem ? (noisy hydraulic tappets)
Did doing a flush finally cured it ? I'm being irritated to death !!
Just waiting for my next oil-change (using Shell TMO so don't want to
waste it on a early oil-change yet).
I'm also thinking of changing the shock absorbers. Was thinking of
using the Boge Pro-gas. The aim is to achieve a better handling car
without lowering the car (via springs). Is this a good choice or should
I use the Bilstein Sports (or Sachs ??) ? I've got some float at speed
and a lot of bump-tumping noises on rough roads (used to absorb these
nicely). Guess the shocks must be shot.
Also are there any recommendations on exhaust systems ? Something that
is free-flowing (more hp) but not too noisy ? I've used Supersprint
and liked them but found it pricey and difficult to get here (didn't
find one to fit the Jetta II). I've been offered a Ansa system and a
Devil system but haven't tried them before.
Seow-Hurn
|
544.177 | | ULYSSE::CHEVAUX | Patrick Chevaux @VBE, DTN 828-5584 | Mon Sep 07 1992 13:06 | 14 |
544.178 | I've been through just this exercise... | SUBURB::TAFF::SCREENER | Robert Screene, Fin EUC | Tue Sep 15 1992 18:23 | 44 |
544.179 | I thought Boge shocks are all soft ! | ZPOVC::SEOWHURN | | Wed Sep 16 1992 16:02 | 21 |
| Robert,
which Boge gas did you use - Turbo gas (yellow colour I think) or
Pro-Gas (orange/red colour). The Pro-Gas is supposed to be
"Progressive" with a "comfort" zone and a "sporty" zone. The problem is
that my car already feels that way !!! Soft initially but push it
further, it surprises with good grip. Unfortunately, I'm getting too
much float at speeds now (shocks at 79k km). The Jetta GTX is supposed
to use the same shocks and springs as the Golf GTI.
Did you change your springs when you changed to the Boge shocks ? I
would have thought that Boge shocks are all pretty soft, in fact I was
afraid that the Boge will be too soft and wallowy on the Jetta. (Those are
the only sporty shocks that I can find here, without going to sport
suspension (shock/spring) kits).
BTW, received your article on tappets, thanks !
Regards
Seow-Hurn
|
544.180 | | SUBURB::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Tue Sep 22 1992 22:07 | 15 |
| Hmm,
I was told they were "Turbo-Gas" dampers. I think the names have since
been changed.
The rear shocks are read, I think the fronts are Yellow. I didn't worry
about it at the time. It anything I would say the red ones at the rear
were harder.
I kept the standard GTI springs, still plenty of life in those.
I wouldn't worry about them being under damped, I'm not sure that you mean
about comfort and sport zones, though.
Rob.
|
544.181 | Progressive shocks ? | ZPOVC::SEOWHURN | | Thu Sep 24 1992 05:39 | 7 |
|
Well, the marketing fluff used those exact terms - Comfort and Sport
zone for the Pro-gas. It's supposed to be soft initially (comfort) and
leading to stiff (sport) as the load increase.
Seow-Hurn
|
544.182 | Golf GTi Mark 3 <moved by mod> | NEWOA::CROME_A | | Tue Feb 09 1993 19:36 | 12 |
| Im looking to change my car very soon and love the look of the Golf GTi,
Im waiting until March for the 16valve version but fear it will cost too much
on the car scheme. Can any of you with the Mark 3 GTi give me some good honest
feedback, likes and dislikes, MPG, handling characteristics etc.
I realize this could be a little biased, but Im not interested in how
it compares to other "Hot Hatches" as it isn't really one ( no offence meant !)
Your info greatfully received.....
Andy
|
544.183 | | SAC::BETTS_W | TCC/S, UCG, DTN 781 1848 | Tue Feb 09 1993 19:58 | 30 |
|
Andy,
I've got the latest Golf in GTi guise (is that a Mark 3?). I've been
struck by the following:
- Good build quality, ergonomics; very well equipped.
- Excellent space, both for all passengers and in the boot.
- Well weighted controls; excellent power steering, progressive
throttle and brake, enjoyable gear change.
- Well implemented engine management; doesn't exhibit the low speed
shunt typical of small French Gtis.
- Reasonable torque, not much power. Part throttle response promises
more than full throttle acceleration can deliver.
- Fun handling. Communicative steering, little body roll, a balance
that can be adjusted by the throttle and minimal torque steer. It
handles well, with mild and progressive understeer that will
react to increased steering or reduced throttle. It will oversteer,
but if you know enough to provoke it, you probably know enough to
enjoy it and sort it out.
- Poor damping / shock ratings. VW really need to sort out the chassis
when it comes to ride on bumpy or undulating roads. The car drives
through bumps, rather than over them; in this respect, it lacks the
finesse of the afore mentioned French Gtis.
In summary, its not really a hot hatch but if you can see beyond the
0-60 time then it does offer a very civilised combination of pace,
balance and creature comforts. I'd heartily recommend it.
William.
|
544.184 | Another vote for... | IOSG::DUTT | Nigel Dutt | Tue Feb 09 1993 21:15 | 17 |
| I'd agree with everything in -.1 after 3 months with my new GTi. Apart
from anything else it has the first power-assisted steering that I
really like.
MPG is about 10% down on my old GTi. I also find that I'm typically
using one gear lower than the old one when I want any kind of
reasonable acceleration (maybe that's why the MPG is down!).
I suspect it only really gets buzzing with the 2.8 engine.
Alternatively I'd love to try it with GM's hot 2-litre engine (as in
the Astra GTE 16v).
I heard some critic's comment to the effect that as the GTi was getting
older it was getting more solid, heavy, slow, and dependable just like
its owners. It's my fourth consecutive GTi, so that did strike a
sensitive spot!
|
544.185 | Haven't got mine just yet | WIZZER::FLANDERSD | I remember the look in your eye | Wed Feb 10 1993 11:52 | 6 |
|
I get mine delivered on Monday 15th, so I can't say anything yet but I'm
looking forward to running it in and I'll add more when if anyone cares when
its been run in a little.
Dave
|
544.186 | | SUBURB::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Mon Feb 15 1993 20:08 | 37 |
544.187 | lights? | OASS::BURDEN_D | A bear in his natural habitat | Tue Feb 16 1993 17:54 | 16 |
| Do any of the dash board lights flicker when the engine starts
to buck like this? There is a weak spot in the ground strap from
the engine to the chassis and battery. It connects to the
engine/tranny through the tranny side motor mount which doesn't
always make a constant and good ground. Try running a heavy
guage wire from the negative terminal on the battery to one
of the 17mm (19mm?) bolts holding the tranny to the engine for
an extra ground strap.
We had this problem on the rally car ('83 Rabbit GTI, US spec)
and it would only show up on rough roads, but not while we
tried to debug it in the driveway or on smooth roads.
It's cheap and worth a shot!
Dave
|
544.188 | | SUBURB::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Tue Feb 16 1993 19:52 | 19 |
544.189 | Try a rolling road... | RDGENG::RUSLING | Dave Rusling REO2 G/E9 830-4380 | Tue Feb 16 1993 20:20 | 6 |
544.190 | | SUBURB::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Wed Feb 17 1993 12:59 | 13 |
544.191 | Phegre | RDGENG::RUSLING | Dave Rusling REO2 G/E9 830-4380 | Wed Feb 17 1993 13:29 | 9 |
|
The number that I've got for Phegre is 025 126 2133,
they're just near Hook. If they're a bit slack and
feeling generous you can get a tour of the workshops,
very interesting, they renovate Lagondas. Last time
I was there they were working on Clark Gables. I'll
be taking the Marlin to them in a few weeks.
Dave
|
544.192 | Slightly brown - cooking up? | SUBURB::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Mon Feb 22 1993 12:00 | 13 |
| New fuel filter fitted. A little improvement
New spark plugs fitted. Seems to have fixed it.
The old ones had only been in for 6 months, however they appear to be the
wrong temperature rating (Bosch W5DC's). My manual states W6DC's for the
1.8 engine, W5DC's are only for the 1.6
I spotted getting sent the wrong ones this time, obviously didn't the last
time! Now, I'll just try to be happy that everything under my bonet looks
brand new.
Cheers,
Rob.
|
544.193 | Do you like it ???? | NEWOA::CROME_A | | Thu Feb 25 1993 19:47 | 8 |
| RE: .185
Mr Flanders - How is the new Golf !
There is still no date for the release of the 16v yet for anyone who is
interested....
Andy
|
544.194 | My new Golf ... | WIZZER::FLANDERSD | I remember the look in your eye | Thu Feb 25 1993 21:01 | 21 |
|
It's still running in, and the engine is (I suspect) still tight so the fuel
consumption is still high (compared with my previous GTi) at about 30 mpg.
All the new features (electric sun-roof, electric door mirrors etc.) are really
very pleasent but I'm still getting to grips with the power steering. Great for
parking, but it can be a little sensitive once its on the move (or maybe I'm a
little heavy handed).
I like the appearance of the new bodyshell, for me the whole car seems lighter
than the Mk 2. From the inside, it has a greater glass area and you don't feel
as 'closed in' as the Mk2 (mind you by comparison I thought the Astra were/are
really claustrophobia inducing ). My only criticism of the interior is that the
seats don't seem to grip as well as the Mk2 ones.
The engine (already) seems very smooth, pulls quite well (not revving it too
hard yet) and seems to accellerate as well as my old one (assuming similar
rev limits etc).
In conclusion, I'm looking forward to the next 3 years with this car.
Dave
|
544.195 | Frozen right ear... | IOSG::DUTT | Nigel Dutt | Thu Feb 25 1993 21:34 | 3 |
| First minus point for my new Golf after 3 months. The driver's window
decided to stay down (naturally at night on a cold Friday, 60 miles
from home!). It required a replacement motor.
|
544.196 | | ESBS01::RUTTER | Rut The Nut | Thu Feb 25 1993 21:58 | 9 |
544.197 | The bits the glossy's missed !!! | NEWOA::CROME_A | | Fri Feb 26 1993 12:53 | 9 |
| Have any of you Mk 3 Golfers had a chance to have a good run down the
motorways yet. I tend to do a fair amount of motorway driving to and from North
Devon so it would be great to know if the car has any anoying vibrations or if it
doesn't like sitting at 70 or 80.
Also whats the stereo like, the glossy's dont give any details - just
that it has eight speakers. Are there any nice features ? like music search and
METAL tape facilities etc.....
Andy
|
544.198 | More than you might want to know | WIZZER::FLANDERSD | I remember the look in your eye | Fri Feb 26 1993 14:23 | 18 |
544.199 | Golf Test Drive....... | NEWOA::CROME_A | | Mon Mar 01 1993 13:18 | 11 |
| I tried the Golf GTi on Saturday and I was impressed !
Not with its performance but with its ride and handling, also the build
quality seems superb. However - I'm really cheesed off with the fact that you
cant get ABS on it, so I'm not sure if its a contender anymore.....
Has anybody got any suggestions on other cars I could consider ?
Andy_who_is_really_cheesed_off_and_might_get_a_cavalier_16v_for_the_hell_off_it
|
544.200 | was it 8 v | EEMELI::HAUTALA | spring in the air yourself | Mon Mar 01 1993 19:10 | 5 |
|
16 v should include ABS.
Hannu
|
544.201 | ABS problems.... "hot off the press" | NEWOA::CROME_A | | Mon Mar 01 1993 19:44 | 12 |
| You are absolutely right, the 16v will have it and ETC as standard.
The trouble is I want on the 8v, I've just spoken to the V.A.G. garage and they
are talking directly to HQ to come up with some answers. One thing emerged from
this little chat though, it seems the problem lies with putting ABS into a 2.0
litre RHD car. It appears there isn't enough room to fit it all in as the ABS
unit sits on the end of the brake servo.
Unofficially - putting 2 & 2 together - it would appear that this is
also what is holding up production of the 16v GTi......
Andy_who_has_just_quoted_for_a_16v_Cavalier_and_Astra_GSi
|
544.202 | ABS option on vtx | LARVAE::MADELEY_T | I'm just F.I.N.E. | Mon Mar 01 1993 19:52 | 2 |
| The car list on VTX says that ABS is an option on the GOLF GTI.
|
544.203 | the ABS saga continues... | NEWOA::CROME_A | | Mon Mar 01 1993 21:07 | 3 |
| The ABS option is refering to all the other models in the range.....
Andy
|
544.204 | Whip it off, brush it up, tack it down. | REPROT::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Wed May 26 1993 19:53 | 24 |
| Hi,
My Mk1 Golf now has 117k miles on it's clock. It's using a little water
and a little oil, about three times the frugal amount when I had it at half
the mileage.
I have had three water hoses burst (are there any left to replace!), and
have (carefully) struggled a little way to a dealer or home.
I intend to have the cylynder head off and de-coke and re-grind the valves
a little. I have bought a rocker cover gasket, cylynder head gasket,
camshaft oil seals, valve seals, and new bolts and inlet and exhaust
gaskets from a dealer.
I have looked brielfly at the Haynes manual and will have the assistance of
a reasonably experienced parent (an engineer/home mechanic 1960-1976!). I
don't want to remove the engine.
Any comments on the task at hand would be appreciated. General gotchas
with such a job, extra parts I may require (doing it on a Bank Holiday),
and especially from anyone who has seen the oily bits of a water cooled VW
lump.
Rob.
|
544.205 | off and on.... | OASS::FLASHE::BURDEN_D | This is a Studebaker Year | Wed May 26 1993 20:21 | 26 |
| Buy a new timing belt as well and put it on. You might have some trouble
with the exhaust manifold nuts and/or studs. Some of the nuts will come
off and some will take the studs with them. Either way is okay. You
might want to buy some new nuts and maybe studs just in case you have to
damage one taking it out.
Depending on intake (carb vs fi) you might find easier access if you take
the intake manifold off first. In which case you'll need a new gasket
for that too.
The lower bolt holding the timing belt cover on, down by the alternator
and sticking out to the side has always been a problem for me. The head
is a hex key and it's very easy to strip. On most of my VWs I tend to
leave this cover off once I remove it the first time just because of this
bolt.
Do you have the instructions for aligning the pulleys when you put the
timing belt back on? Obviously it's very important, but also fairly
simple. The book should cover that and your friend might know it anyway.
Not to cause you any more grief, but you might find that the oil
consumption is being caused by worn rings as well as valve guides and
seals. That's not a bad job either, except that you do it all from under
the car. Save that for the next holiday.....
Dave
|
544.206 | Dont Forget The Valve Spring Compressor !!! | NEWOA::CROME_A | | Wed May 26 1993 22:08 | 0 |
544.207 | | REPROT::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Thu May 27 1993 00:41 | 9 |
| I think Mr.Haynes states how to make such a device, or do you think I
should try to rent one? I guess I should also get hold something to help
grind the valves (and two grades of paste?).
Thanks, I think I'll buy a couple of exhaust studs and nuts.
Any more?
Rob.
|
544.208 | shims? | OASS::FLASHE::BURDEN_D | This is a Studebaker Year | Thu May 27 1993 01:44 | 11 |
| With the Mk1 Golf you have shims to adjust the valves. If you are doind
a valve job you will have to re-adjust them afterwards. For this you'll
need an assorment of shims. You could take the measurements after it's
all back together and then buy just the ones you'll need. I used to have
a pile of them taken from various engines we had taken apart, but not any
more, plus I'm a bit far away.....
You'll also need the two tools for depressing the shim cups and
removing/installing the shims.
Dave
|
544.209 | | REPROT::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Fri May 28 1993 00:16 | 13 |
| Nice point Dave.
I just read the section really closely and came up with grinding paste (2
grades), pipe cleaners for oilways, and 8 containers (one for each valve
assembly).
Oh yeah, and some replacement oil and anti-freeze. Any more?
Anyone got some spare blu-tac in case I find a crack in the head? 8-)
Beginning to almost look forward to this job.
Rob.
|
544.210 | | REPROT::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Tue Jun 01 1993 22:46 | 17 |
544.211 | good job! | OASS::FLASHE::BURDEN_D | This is a Studebaker Year | Tue Jun 01 1993 23:14 | 12 |
| Now that it's back together I would double check the cam timing by lining
up all the marks on the pulleys. The dimple on the back side of the cam
pulley should line up with the top of the head (not just the lip on the
cam cover), the dimple and the V notch on the crank pulley and
distributor shaft pulley should line up too (forgot which is on which.)
Having the cam timing off and making up for it with the distributor
timing might work, but isn't correct. Once it's all set, you should be
able to advance the distributor so it idles around 1200 rpm to get a
little more top end power.
Dave
|
544.212 | I see what you mean, but... | CHEFS::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Thu Jun 03 1993 00:10 | 41 |
| Yeah Dave, that's my worry.
We carefully lined up the cam pulley with the top of the head before
dissasembly, and left the car stationary, in 5th to ensure we didn't move
the bottom end crankshaft.
However when reconnecting the timing belt, a slight shunt was felt
somwhere the belt had moved one or more teeth as the bottom slack was
taken up. My guess is that it was the loose belt moving a few teeth over
the mid pulley (linked by a shaft to the distributor isn't it?).
On trying to start the car it would fire but didn't really want to know.
So I went back to basics and removed the lower timing cover and found the
lower two pulley marks you describe. When the crankshaft pulley and
camshaft pulleys were in exactly the right place, the mid shaft was way out
(20 degrees). I corrected this against the belt and made matters worse,
now that car was trying to backfire when it eventually started.
My guess is that the specialist who changed the timing belt for me about
two years ago forgot to line this mid shaft up (after a similar mishap
to mine) and merely corrected the problem the easy way, by using a strobe
light and adjusting the distributor. Net result perfection at the time,
but extremely confusing for the next bod to rely on the timing dimples
(me!).
I DO think the camshaft and bottom end are to within one tooth or even
spot on as spec. I just don't think I have a hope of setting the advance
without a proper crypton.
Looks as though the spec for my 1.8 DX engine states timing should be 6
degrees BTDC at idle. Are you sure that advancing it is going to help top
end power?
Is there an alternative way to double check piston position to cam timing?
Any further comment is very much appreciated.
Rob.
p.s. timing belt allen key was really easy, I had a key which was part of
my socket set!
|
544.213 | do it by ear | OASS::FLASHE::BURDEN_D | This is a Studebaker Year | Thu Jun 03 1993 02:00 | 11 |
| From your note it does sound like the pistons and cam/valves are okay,
just the dist is off. I don't use a timing light so maybe someone else
can help you set the dist timing back to normal.
All I do to raise the idle is loosen the 13mm bolt holding the dist down
(while the engine is running) and gently turn the dist until the idle
raises to about 1200rpm. Tighten the bolt and all set! You can raise it
to about 1500rpm, but then you'll need a constant supply of high octane
fuel to keep it from pinging under load.
Dave
|
544.214 | | SUBURB::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Thu Jun 03 1993 17:52 | 15 |
| It had a brand new fuel pump a few months ago so I should hope the system
pressure is up there with the gods!
But surely the (slow) idle speed is also VERY dependant on the idle
adjustment screw on the throttle body. It could be timed at 6 degrees BTDC
and it's just that your slow idle happens to be adjusted to 1500rpm.
Or did you have the dist at spec and adjust slow idle to 950rpm, then
advance the timing to get 1500rpm, hence giving a quantified increase.
I am still learning about all this stuff and am probably missing something
basic!
Cheers,
Rob.
|
544.215 | | OASS::FLASHE::BURDEN_D | This is a Studebaker Year | Thu Jun 03 1993 18:38 | 4 |
| I didn't play with the throttle body at all. I just twisted the dist
which raised the idle.
Dave
|
544.216 | Where's the Oil Breather on a GTI? | PACUK::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Fri Oct 22 1993 20:34 | 25 |
| Had the sump off the Golf the other weekend and replaced the Big-End
bearings.
Crank shaft was in really good shape, no ovality. The top big-end shells
(the one's that get the most hammering) were only slightly worn, very
impressive considering 115K is now on the clock.
I noticed some oil is getting blown (sucked?) into the air-inlet just below
the injection air metering unit. There's also quite a bit of oil/gasses
inside the rocker cover when the engine is idling with the oil filler taken
off. I have been told this is normal in the past.
I can't seem to find mention of an oil breather in the Haynes manual for
this Bosch K-Jetronic Volkswagen engine.
I just read Note 772.35 which mantioned worn piston rings not helping this
problem by letting more pressure past than normal. I have checked my
compression and it reads 154,178,180,200 lb/ft going for cyl 1-4. The
specs say 150-180 is normal, so I don't think poor compression is to
blame..
I would appreciate any thoughts.
Rob.
|
544.217 | | OASS::BURDEN_D | This is a Studebaker Year | Fri Oct 22 1993 22:23 | 9 |
| Which model Golf? We have an '85 Jetta (Mk II) and there is an oil breather on
the top of the valve cover. I've removed the f/i and replaced it with a Weber
so I simply attached a rubber hose from that breather to the inlet on the carb
housing.
Of course, I'm in the US so maybe they did something different for the European
models.
Dave
|
544.218 | | PACUK::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Mon Oct 25 1993 14:35 | 25 |
544.219 | | OASS::BURDEN_D | This is a Studebaker Year | Mon Oct 25 1993 16:50 | 22 |
544.220 | | SUBURB::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Thu Nov 11 1993 16:13 | 53 |
544.221 | | OASS::BURDEN_D | Synchromesh gearboxes are for wimps | Thu Nov 11 1993 19:28 | 60 |
| >It's Just that the air filter and bottom of the
>metering unit have a fair coating of oil which I guess drains down the
>linkage pipe from the oil breather when the engine is stopped.
Had that happen on my '83 GTI too. On the Thunder Bunny (Mk 1 Golf, 1600cc
SuperVee engine, 158bhp, useful revs from 6500-8200rpm) we just had the oil
breather dump into a metal can. On the diesels, they use this oil blowby to
lubricate the valve stems.
>Lower Stress bar - piece of 5mm aluminium angle, drilled 2 holes and cut
>out a wide slot for the bottom of the clutch housing! Forget the 40-140
>pounds specialists want to charge here! I have read that the full
>triangulated jobs give even more rigidity at the front.
On the Mk 1 Golfs the stress bar was really needed. On the Mk 2 and Mk 3 they
aren't needed as much, but do help.
>I just had to replace the front pads. Both pads in the front left caliper
>were down to the linings, but both of the front right pads had only worn
>half as much. Any ideas of the cause?
What I have found, is the inner left pads wears the fastest and the outer right
the slowest, with the other two about the same. If most of the turns you take
(exit ramps....slip roads??) turn right, the left side of the car has more
weight on it. If you brake during these turns, the left side pads produce more
heat to slow the car down than the right. The inner pad heats up more than the
outer pad so it wears faster. Look at the types of roads you drive on and where
the braking happens in the turns.
>I also noticed that the front left cv boot is completely torn and has
>disgraced itself with all it's greasy content.
Replace it, the CV joint is shot. However, they make great puzzles or paper
weights once they are all cleaned up.
>Is there much involved in undoing the driveshaft and getting the old one
>out from the wheel hub? I am also interested in this procedure because I
>have to remove and probably replace the damper on the other side as it's
>rubber bump-stop is missing.
You need a 12 point 8mm (10mm maybe) hex socket to remove the inner joint from
the tranny housing. For the outer joint you need a 30mm socket and a long
breaker bar. It has around 175 ft lbs of torque on it and it's probably rusted
too.... Do this step first with the car in gear and someone standing on the
brake pedal. You should be able to remove the entire halfshaft without undoing
the two lower strut bolts from the wheel hub, but they don't effect the
alignment like they did in the Mk 1, so you can if you have to.
Here in the US we've found it's cheaper to buy a complete axle with two new CV
joints all set to go that it is to buy one replacement CV joint from VW. It's
also a lot less mess.
For replacing the right side strut, you don't have to do anything to the CV
joint or halfshaft. Just undo the two lower strut bolts and it drops right out.
If you start playing with the tower bearing or spring, get a good spring
compressor or bring it to a shop with one. The springs can be deadly if not
held in place when removing thhe tower bearing.
Dave
|
544.222 | | FORTY2::PALKA | | Thu Nov 11 1993 20:08 | 29 |
| re .221
>>>What I have found, is the inner left pads wears the fastest and the outer right
>>>the slowest, with the other two about the same. If most of the turns you take
>>>(exit ramps....slip roads??) turn right, the left side of the car has more
>>>weight on it. If you brake during these turns, the left side pads produce more
>>>heat to slow the car down than the right. The inner pad heats up more than the
>>>outer pad so it wears faster. Look at the types of roads you drive on and where
>>>the braking happens in the turns.
While it is true that on a turn one side of the car carries more weight
this does not mean that it has more braking effort. There is no effect
at the brake calipers from additional weight on the wheel. The pressure
in the brake fluid should be the same, and the speed of the wheel
should be very nearly the same (if anything the inner wheel is going
slower). The only way you would get different amounts of braking is if
one wheel locks (or you have ABS which gets activated), but I dont
think you would be going that fast into a bend (rear wheels maybe, but
not front !). If you notice a pull to one side or the other when
braking in a straight line then one set of brakes is not working
properly, and this should be corrected. I suspect the different wear is
due to a 'rougher' disc.
There may well be some effect on the tyre wear from turning one way
more than another, but that is a different matter. In any case in the
UK we dont have the tight turns at highway junctions that are common in
the US.
Andrew
|
544.223 | | SUBURB::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Mon Nov 15 1993 12:44 | 22 |
| Thanks.
Dave,
>> You should be able to remove the entire halfshaft without undoing
>> the two lower strut bolts from the wheel hub, but they don't effect the
>> alignment like they did in the Mk 1, so you can if you have to.
It IS a MK1 Golf/Rabbit. Lower strut bolts? Where are these and what is
their purpose? Are we talking about the two eccentric bolts which hold the
front camber geometry in place? Do I have to move them to release the
outer cv joint???
Is halfshaft what I probably know as the "driveshaft"?
What sort of grease do I pack inside the cv boot. How do you find it's
best to fill the thing up and seal it? (I do think my Father was a medium
sized grease gun hiding in his shed somwhere, might this help?)
Thanks for the interest,
Rob.
|
544.224 | | OASS::STDBKR::Burden_d | Synchromesh gearboxes are for wimps | Mon Nov 15 1993 17:52 | 19 |
| Rob,
Ok, for some reason I thought it was a Mk II.... Yes, the lower
stress bar helps a lot.
The two eccentric bolts *might* have to be loosened or removed to
get the end of the halfshaft (driveshaft) out. Depends on how much you
managed to pull the hub out and bend the CV joint to one side.
If you buy a CV boot kit (just the rubber boot, not the whole
joint) you'll get the metal bands and a tube of grease for the joint. I
have bought larger tubes in parts stores. You should be able to buy
generic CV joint grease. No need for a grease gun, just use your hands!!
Can you buy the Robert Bentley manuals for the VWs over there?
They are the best repair manuals you can buy in the US for the VWs and
really show you every step of the way.
Dave
|
544.225 | | SUBURB::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Tue Nov 16 1993 13:09 | 16 |
544.226 | | OASS::BURDEN_D | Synchromesh gearboxes are for wimps | Tue Nov 16 1993 15:02 | 11 |
544.227 | | SUBURB::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Tue Nov 16 1993 16:18 | 5 |
| Do I take it you mean it's good because any spilt fuel is going to
evaporate real quick? I just ordered the c/v joint and boot kit.
Good luck with the job. Rob.
|
544.228 | | OASS::BURDEN_D | Synchromesh gearboxes are for wimps | Tue Nov 16 1993 23:32 | 15 |
544.229 | | SUBURB::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Thu Nov 25 1993 15:04 | 30 |
| Thanks Dave,
It's the last of the MK1's; 1983. Nice light bodyshell, 1800cc engine.
Loads of mid-range torque to weight (137lbft2/tonne).
Thanks for the offer of the early manual. I just found an add for newly
imported, Robert Bently manuals, guess what's going to be on my letter to
santa!
I did the c/v joint change last Friday. The driveshaft cane out quite
easily, it was a splined drive I needed to undo it from the final drive, I
was quite upset once i'd got it all up on axle stands to find I had the
wrong hexagonal key available!
I have a new set of progressing rear "comfort" springs. I'm hoping these
will work better with the stiffer rear gas dampers I had fitted a couple of
years ago. Apparently its quite easy to change the rear springs, you don't
need a spring compressor because there's plenty of travel within the damper
.
Any good tips for this job?
Thanks,
Rob.
|
544.230 | | OASS::BURDEN_D | Synchromesh gearboxes are for wimps | Sat Nov 27 1993 05:50 | 14 |
544.231 | | PACUK::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Mon Nov 29 1993 12:45 | 21 |
544.232 | How do I replace the Piston Rings? | REPROT::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Mon Feb 28 1994 21:16 | 20 |
| Hi,
If I drive over 95 mph, I now notice the odd black cloud following me. The
previous notes mention about the head being rebuilt recently and given new
valve guide oil seals, so I suspect the oil scraper rings and noted a
slightly low compression (at the low end of the haynes limits) on number 1
cylinder.
I'm frustrated that I didn't make a note of each cylinder bore size when
checking each for ovality when the head was off.
I guess I'll have to take it off again, measure up, order the rings and buy
a simple ring compressor, then wait a couple of days till the parts arrive.
What other things should I replace while I'm in there, the little end
bearings inside the pitsons spring to mind. I've already replaced the big
end-bearings at the crank end.
Any experience and comment greatly appreciated.
Rob.
|
544.233 | | OASS::STDBKR::Burden_d | Synchromesh gearboxes are for wimps | Mon Feb 28 1994 23:09 | 16 |
| A 'simple' test would be to fly along at 95+ and when the black cloud
appears, shut the engine down, pull over and then pull the plugs. Look for
oil on them and that would verify if oil is getting into the combustion
chamber (in large quantities) and which cylinder is worse than the others.
This test might not be easily done on the highways however.
Are you sure it is oil smoke and not an over rich mixture? Maybe there is
some WOT setting/switch that is dumping too much fuel into the intake?
The spark plug test above would tell you if it is oil or too much fuel
causing the smoke.
You could also have a friend with a good sense of smell follow you......
Dave
|
544.234 | Sounds fun but is there a way to avoid burning myself? | REPROT::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Tue Mar 01 1994 15:04 | 28 |
544.235 | | BAHTAT::EATON_N | Personal Name Removed to Save Costs | Tue Mar 01 1994 15:43 | 11 |
| Rob,
To do a proper "plug chop" test you need to drive at the speed you have
the problem at, then switch off the ignition and disengage the gears at
the same time, so that the engine doesn't turn. You then coast to a
halt, and examine the plugs. This is used frequently to check the
mixture on a loaded engine. As the first reply said, it ain't easy on
the Queen's Highway. And yes, you probably will burn your fingers. 8^)
Nigel
|
544.236 | more random thoughts | OASS::BURDEN_D | and a dozen grey attorneys | Wed Mar 02 1994 04:11 | 7 |
| Rob, just had a thought - what revs are you turning at 95 in fifth? Just
use those revs in 1st or 2nd until the smoke appears. You might be able
to do the plug test at a lower speed....?
How about a rolling road?
Dave
|
544.237 | | CHEFS::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Wed Mar 02 1994 20:29 | 18 |
| Hmm.
I've seen it as low as a constant 90mph which is 4500rpm in fifth.
Wouldn't the load on the cylynders be much less at 4500rpm in a lower gear?
Or isn't that related to the troubleshooting?
Also the smoke can't be made to appear, for example it seems to arrive when
I get a little keen on the motorway half way though a 30 mile journey into
London. I do accelerate hard occasionally when I see a nice clear road and
have yet to produce any smoke through provocation. My guess is it's
related to how hot the block is.
Does this set any bells ringing???
Thanks again,
Rob.
|
544.238 | | OASS::STDBKR::Burden_d | Synchromesh gearboxes are for wimps | Wed Mar 02 1994 23:11 | 24 |
|
>I've seen it as low as a constant 90mph which is 4500rpm in fifth.
>Wouldn't the load on the cylynders be much less at 4500rpm in a lower gear?
>Or isn't that related to the troubleshooting?
Yeah, the extra load might be a factor which is why I slipped in the thought
about the rolling road. Of course, if it isn't reproducable all the time, it
might cost a bit to stay on the rolling road for a few hours.....
From you previous note you indicate the engine consumes water/coolant. That
indicates a break in the head, head gasket or possibly the block. How
pronounced in the white smoke during regular driving and how much coolant is
it using?
Do you notice a drop in power when the smoke appears? Any surging? I had
something similar on one of my VW diesels - They didn't install a crankcase
breather so the oil vapours would build up in the crank and eventually start
getting past the rings. The engine would take off on its own and a *very*
thick cloud of blue/black smoke would come out the tail pipe. It was fun
because the throttle would have no effect on engine speed anymore. VW (US)
did a recall and installed a breather pipe to the intake.
Dave
|
544.239 | | CHEFS::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Thu Mar 03 1994 13:24 | 34 |
544.240 | | OASS::STDBKR::Burden_d | Synchromesh gearboxes are for wimps | Thu Mar 03 1994 17:25 | 13 |
| A simple way to figure out if is the oil breather: Disconnect it from the
intake and route the line to a suitibly sealed container that can hold a pint
or so. Make it easy to remove and empty because it will fill up with oil
eventually. This way, any oil blowby will go to the can and not back into
the engine. Leave it this way for a few weeks and see if the black/blue
smoke goes away at speed.
The white smoke sounds normal although the constant need to top up the
coolant is not really normal. As long as there is no white smoke once it's
warmed up I wouldn't worry too much.
Dave (planning to take the '24 out cruising this weekend if the weather stays
dry)
|
544.241 | VW wheel off-set | WSTENG::HICKMAN | Peter Hickman | Fri Mar 04 1994 14:12 | 13 |
| <<< WANLAD::DUA1:[NOTES$LIBRARY.GENERAL]CARS_UK.NOTE;3 >>>
-< Cars UK >-
================================================================================
Note 385.17 Alloy Wheels 17 of 17
WSTENG::HICKMAN "Peter Hickman" 6 lines 2-MAR-1994 10:12
-< Alloys for a VW? >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I'm thinking of replacing the wheels on my VW Golf Cabrio. However some distant
memory of mine says there is something different or odd about VW wheels off-set?
Is this true and if so what should I be looking out for when looking for the new
wheels? Thanks in advance.
Peter.
|
544.242 | I'm glad not everything in my life is as unreliable as this Volkswagen | NEWOA::CALF::johnson_n | | Wed Jul 27 1994 19:49 | 36 |
| Golf GTI Mk3 5 Door (aka Boris The Dub) - Half Term Report.
Boris is now half way through his lease period (3 years - 60K miles) so I
thought I would write a bit of a half term report........
Up until this morning Boris has provided me with totally reliable transport
(more of this latter !) The ride and handling have been acceptable and good
respectively. The engine is very good - will rev or slog equally well - and
driven in my usual granny style manages 34 - 37 mpg.
Boris is very quiet when cruising on the motorway and generally behaves in
a fairly sophisticated way which is pleasingly out of line with the "hot hatch"
image. Unfortunately he is also out of line with the quality VW image
(which in the UK is now a bit of a - motor trade - joke). The quality of the
interior fittings has always been poor and I have given up trying to get an
interior that does not make a collection of noises every time Boris looks at a
bump. The standard fit Sony slide out radio cassette is appalling and getting
worse.
So will I be driving Boris home tonight ? NO WAY........ he disgraced
himself this morning on the A34 coming into Newbury (AVOID at the
moment at all costs !). The electric cooling fan motor seized then burnt out,
the water temp went off the clock and I limped him into Ridgways garage.
They said tut tut and I said "I'm glad not everything in my life is as
unreliable as this Volkswagen" ! Boris is the first new car to let me down the
previous ones where a Ford and an Austin !
Summary:-
Boris fails to deliver the premium quality that his premium price make
obligatory. This model is not recommended.
Regards,
Nick.
|
544.243 | Boris, you sad example you.... | FORTY2::HOWELL | Just get to the point... | Wed Jul 27 1994 20:05 | 6 |
| While unfortunate, I think it's a bit extreme to cast aspurtions (sp?)
on the whole Golf range because of this one incident!
Poor Boris, though.
|
544.244 | If only Boris was a one off | ESBS01::WATSON | Entropy: chaos at it's best | Wed Jul 27 1994 20:38 | 4 |
| I'm pretty sure it's general knowledge within the morot trade that the
New (Mk III) Golf is a complete dog as far as reliability goes. Anyone
remember the CAR article with "DO NOT BUY THIS CAR" in 2" high script when
reviewing their long term test VR6 (V6R ?) Golf.
|
544.245 | I like mine, but... | IOSG::DUTT | Nigel Dutt | Wed Jul 27 1994 21:52 | 11 |
| I'm now at 25,000 with my MK III GTi 3-door.
I like it. Not quite as nippy as my previous ones but definitely nicer
to drive. The power steering is just right compared with others I've
tried.
Buts - only one real problem which was the driver's side window motor
failing in the first week (of course it failed wide open on a freezing
night 60 miles from home). Also as mentioned before, a lot more squeaks
and rattles than any of my previous three GTis, and that's one of my
personal hates.
|
544.246 | | TASTY::JEFFERY | Children need to learn about X in school | Thu Jul 28 1994 12:16 | 5 |
| I drove a Mk II GTI 16V, and thought it a rattley car!
I can't believe the claims they make.
Mark.
|
544.247 | told you so.. | UBOHUB::HUTCHINGS_P | Only ME.. | Thu Jul 28 1994 17:53 | 3 |
| should have bought an Xr3i...
:-)
|
544.248 | Oh puleeez!? | FORTY2::HOWELL | Just get to the point... | Fri Jul 29 1994 14:56 | 2 |
| I hope that was intended as a joke!
|
544.249 | Better lookingthan the golf tho' | UBOHUB::HUTCHINGS_P | Only ME.. | Mon Aug 01 1994 18:00 | 3 |
| Yep..:-) :-)
Paul (3i cabriolet owner)
|
544.250 | Tyre size? | REOSV1::ROEM | | Thu Jan 12 1995 19:45 | 7 |
| Can anyone tell me the size of the wheels/tyres on the 16V GTI? I have snow
chains for those, but I need to get some for my Cavalier. A quick
answer will be most helpful - I won't need to climb through the attic
tonight to find them!
Thanks
Mike
|
544.251 | | AIMTEC::BURDEN_D | A bear in his natural habitat | Fri Jan 13 1995 17:19 | 3 |
| 205/55x14 I think, but that's the US model.
Dave
|
544.252 | Buying second hand | SIOG::LOWE | | Wed Mar 22 1995 16:55 | 13 |
| Hi,
I am currently looking out for an 8v Golf GTI on the second hand
market, something '88 - '90 would be in my price range. I understand
that after 1990 the GTI has become less of a sports car, slower etc. Is
this true.
I had a quick look at an 1988 model with 93,000 miles, but it seemed to
be nearly perfect. Should I steer clear of one with that sort of miles?
Does anyone have any tips on what to look out for when buying?
I would be grateful for any help.
Thanks, Kevin.
|
544.253 | | AIMTEC::BURDEN_D | A bear in his natural habitat | Wed Mar 22 1995 18:11 | 30 |
| General VW/GTI issues:
Check cv joint boots, inner and outer for rips, tears, etc.
See if the timing belt was replaced around 60k miles. The valves will not hit
the pistons on te 8v (at least the US version) so if the belt breaks, the engine
will simply stop running.
Check the engine mounts for slop, especially the front one.
During a test drive, see if the 2nd gear snychro is working properly - that one
gets eaten up if the car has been abused - I know it was pretty well shot on my
'83 GTI rally car.
See if any of the carpets get wet when it rains. The plastic liners in the
doors leak sometimes.
Check the water pump and radiator for dripping, they may be due for replacement
at 93k miles.
The engine itself should not be a problem at 93k miles, but a number of things
on the car may be getting worn out - brakes, shocks, tower bearings, etc. How
long do you plan to keep this car? With the proper care, you should be able to
get 150k+ miles out of it, so replacing what is worn now should be worth it in
the long run.
Nigel Dutt should have some input since he had an '88 GTI I think, unless this
is his car!! :-)
Dave
|
544.254 | If only VW's were as reliable as a Volkswagen | WOTVAX::HARDYP | | Wed Mar 22 1995 20:18 | 28 |
| Kevin,
I've seen this on a Scirocco and have been told that's it's common for
all VWs.
For RHD versions check the point that the clutch cable enters the
bulkhead.
As the clutch is on the LH side the LHD version has a short cable that
goes directly from clutch to bulkhead. On the RHD version the cable
goes over the engine (get's cooked) and is longer. Hence it gets stiff.
The outer cable is held by the bulkhead and hence takes all of the
operating pressure. After some use it can have a metal fatigue effect
on the bulkhead and pull a hole through it. This is not rust related so
can happen on immaculate looking cars.
The good news is that there is a repair plate that can be welded in.
The bad news is where you have to weld it.
Of course if this happened in the states they'd all be recalled and
done free!
Peter
|
544.255 | | EEMELI::HAUTALA | hel!, have our phone number | Thu Mar 23 1995 09:45 | 9 |
|
re .252
VW models before 1990 are faster, because catalytic converter is not
installed. Power loss with catalysator is at the most with 16v models.
Hannu
|
544.256 | | LEMAN::SIMPSON | Stephen Simpson@GEO, DTN:821 5105 | Fri Mar 24 1995 18:04 | 9 |
| I sold my '86 LHD GTI 8v last year, with 230,000 km on the clock (140,000 miles).
In all the time that I had it, I lost a fuel pump, and a battery.
It never consumed oil, and just ran and ran and ran...
At the end, it was getting some surface rust on the leading edge of the doors.
Other than that no problems.
-Steve
|
544.257 | buying sechond - part 2 | SIOG::LOWE | | Mon Mar 27 1995 17:16 | 18 |
| re .252
Thanks for your help in my search for a GTI.
I had another look and at and drove the one I saw with 93 K on it. The
car has four owners but, except for a small leak in the bottom of the
rad I cannot find anything wrong with it. In terms of condition it is
the best GTI of that age group I have seen and there no problems on the
road, everything is nice and tight etc.
The only fault with it on the road it thet it seems a little bit slow
compared with some GTIs I drove two years ago when I was last looking
for one ( I got an Accord instead). There is no smoke of back pressure
form the engine, so it is unlikly to be in need of a rebore, what else
is the likley cause of the lack of speed. Also, there is a very slight
tappet noise, is this normal.
Thanks again, Kevin
|
544.258 | | AIMTEC::BURDEN_D | A bear in his natural habitat | Mon Mar 27 1995 19:18 | 11 |
| > There is no smoke of back pressure
> form the engine, so it is unlikly to be in need of a rebore, what else
> is the likley cause of the lack of speed.
Check plugs and wires. You can also advance the dist a bit to get more power.
> Also, there is a very slight tappet noise, is this normal.
Generally, yes. Change the oil and see if that helps it.
Dave
|
544.259 | Mk2 Golf GTI model detail | CHEFS::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Wed Mar 29 1995 17:02 | 37 |
| Hi Kevin,
Check for un-even wear on the front tyres, if it's not scrubbing on the two front
tyres then you'll probably be looking at one with a straight chassis and definitely
looked after wheel alignment.
If not, it may just be the camber/tracking or could be because of an out-of-line
bodyshell from a past accident.
Any scraping noise if you push the clutch pedal very gently, this would probably
indicate clutch problems on the way. Also is the clutch very stiff? Again,
probably a cheap or end-of-life clutch.
Any noise from the steering rack or c\v joints going to either side lock at parking
speed. Not terrible to replace, but a resounding clonk could help the price down.
Here's some detail I found of model changes, I think it's a bit more detail than
in Parkers...
| Mar-1984 | VW Golf | Launched mk2 range. Roomier, quieter, better brakes,
front suspension with subframe. Poor
| Oct-1984 | VW Golf GTI | Standard Sunroof
| Aug-1985 | VW Golf GTI | Deeper front spoiler, twin exhaust pipes
| Jan-1986 | VW Golf | Revisions. Hydraulic tappets and self-adj clutch
| Sep-1986 | VW Golf | Revisions. standard height-adj seat. Stereo
| Aug-1987 | VW Golf | Revisions no qtr-light 4slat grille,rhd wipe,
steering w,column controls, sil mouldings, rear
| Aug-1987 | VW Golf GTI | New wheels, upgraded trim,Digifant EFi engine can run
unleaded without adjustment.
| Aug-1988 | VW Golf | Revisions wide angle side mirrors. Heated washers. 1.6
CL catalyst less mpg and 72bhp
| Aug-1989 | VW Golf | CL+GL standard c/l. GL gets big bumpers. GL retains
absence of driving lights.
| Aug-1989 | VW Golf GTI | New gearbox code 'AUG' has lower 2nd gear, much better
acceleration as hits 3rd gear at better revs
| Aug-1990 | VW Golf GTI | No e/w(548 option) Standard Fogs, pas, sunroof, c/l
| Aug-1991 | VW Golf GTI | standard e/w, bbs Alloys, trim and upholstery as 16v
|
544.260 | | CHEFS::GEORGEM | Cannibalise Legalbis | Wed Mar 29 1995 17:36 | 3 |
| err...My '87 Golf's clutch has been making a rubbing/scraping sound for about 4
or 5 years - 45k miles. Does this necessarily mean that a breakage is
imminent? (The noise just appeared, and has never got worse).
|
544.261 | | CHEFS::TAFF::Wob | Robert Screene, UK Finance EUC | Wed Mar 29 1995 18:03 | 11 |
| Hi,
The noise might just be a clutch release bearing or input shaft perhaps. If so,
it's not an indication of a catastrophic problem, especially if you know the car.
If buying an unknown, I'd just be inclined to look at other examples.
Rob.
|
544.262 | | CHEFS::GEORGEM | Cannibalise Legalbis | Wed Mar 29 1995 18:13 | 7 |
| Oh dear, there goes my chance of flogging it!
err...flogging as in "selling", not as in "whipping with a branch".
Cheers.
|
544.263 | turning off rear wiper | RDGE44::ALEUC5 | | Tue Dec 12 1995 17:36 | 11 |
|
Could some kind person with a Golf GTI manual covering the F reg 8V model
please look up for me how to turn off the intermittent rear windscreen
wiper (without turning off the engine)
My car came with no instruction manual, and there seems no obvious way to
do this. (I expect the answer will be so obvious I will kick myself!)
Thanks,
CArol Gilroy.
|
544.264 | Been there..... | 43889::MCCABE | | Tue Dec 12 1995 17:59 | 13 |
|
Quite simple.... it is a toggle, press the stalk back to turn the
function on, and again to turn it off.
Now it took me 6 months to find out that there was an intermittent
position on the front wiper :-(
Also, that backwards motion of the stalk can generate a lot of stress
in the plastic (mine broke after about 75,000 miles, it had been
getting stiffer and stiffer over the previous months) And the
replacement cost about 90 pounds including labour at a VW dealer.
|
544.265 | Started but how do I stop the $%^&*@# thing! | VARDAF::CHURCH | Dave Church@VBE (DTN 828-6125) | Wed Dec 13 1995 10:38 | 10 |
544.266 | Online handbook anyone ? | WOTVAX::WATSONR | Lambs... so cute... but so tasty ! | Mon Oct 14 1996 14:35 | 19 |
544.267 | | WOTVAX::STONEG | Temperature Drop in Downtime Winterland.... | Mon Oct 14 1996 14:52 | 6 |
544.268 | Some things I remember from my MkII | COMICS::FLANDERSD | Pas de deux - Father of twins ! | Mon Oct 14 1996 15:18 | 14 |
544.269 | | WOTVAX::WATSONR | Lambs... so cute... but so tasty ! | Tue Oct 15 1996 16:18 | 9 |
544.270 | | COMICS::FLANDERSD | Pas de deux - Father of twins ! | Tue Oct 15 1996 18:48 | 7 |
544.271 | Selling Price ? | CHEFS::MERRETTG | | Wed Nov 06 1996 17:52 | 10
|