| I had a new problem with my car (Alfa) last night and wondered if anyone
has a good idea of what went wrong...
Basically, when I turn the ignition key OFF, the battery warning light
comes ON. When I turn the key to the ON position, the light goes OFF.
The engine starts normally, with the warning light not showing until
the key is turned to the fully off position...
Recent background :
I had a problem recently where the power did not always go on when
the key was turned on, but a liberal dousing of WD40 into the lock
seemed to fix that.
One other point, the engine did cut out yesterday on a roundabout.
When I checked later, the battery lead was loose, so I do wonder
if there could have been some alternator damage (the engine only
cut out temporarily, then continued).
Anyway, I guessed that this new problem was caused by the lock.
Simple check is to disconnect the multiplug connectors coming
from the ignition switch. Guess what ? The light stays on !
Of course, having this warning light on overnight managed to drain
my battery. I jump-started the car this morning and have disconnected
the battery lead whilst the car is parked at work.
Note that the petrol/temp gauges do 'switch off' when the key is
turned off, and read normally when key is turned on again, so it
isn't a case of the whole system being live all the time.
So, does anyone have any specific suggestions as to what is wrong ?
J.R.
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This is a different, but related question. Could a lose
earth on one side of the ignition light cause it to come
on? Maybe what I need is an understanable wiring diagram.
But as I understand it, the alternator has two wires coming
out of it (the modern, alternater + regulator does, anyway).
One goes to the battery (live) and the other, smaller one,
goes to the ignition warning light (via a fuse). I recently
had a problem with that fuse, shared by my water temp and
fuel gauge. There was oxidation around the contact and
this caused my ignition warning light to come on - how?
(And the gauges to read low).
Dave
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| re .5
A bad contact where you describe could make the alternator supply
current via the warning light to the gauges. If the contact was
non-existant your gauges probably would not move, nor would the light
come on (and your battery would die ...). A high resistance contact
would allow sufficient current to pass to make the alternator work, but
not enough to keep the gauges happy.
re .6, .7
In some alternators you can replace just the diodes (They are a common
failure point). In some others you may have to replace all the
electronics. If you're really unlucky you might have to replace the
whole thing (especially if your garage has a spare alternator, but not
the parts !)
Andrew
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