Conference misery::feline

    Doug,
    
    You can rent a trap from a rental store like Taylor Rental.  In my area
    (Grafton) they are $8/day or $25/week.
    
    Humane Societies often lend out traps for a small fee; however, the
    liklihood of being able to use it for any length of time is slim to none
    since they are constantly needed for trapping in many different areas.
    Best bet is to rent one yourself, then you are in control of the time
    factor.
    
    Be advised that you should not set the trap overnight or while you are
    at work.  It must be manned at least every hour to check for capture
    and to ensure that whatever was caught is either released (if wildlife)
    or kept inside (a kitty!).  Feral cats will usually freak out once
    inside the trap, so throw a towel or blanket over it to help calm them
    down.  Also, try to coincide capture of the kittens with a trip to the
    vet.... this might mean calling your vet's office ahead of time and
    informing them that you are setting a trap and would like to take the
    kittens directly to them afterward for release (or a shelter if that is
    your plan).  I would not try to transfer them out of the trap to
    somewhere else yourself because if they escape, they will become "trap
    smart" and avoid it like the plague the next time it is set!
    
    Feral kittens need an abundance of patience and devotion.  Talk softly
    to them, and try to gently pet them if they will allow it.  If you do
    plan to handle them directly after trapping, where heavy work gloves to
    avoid getting bitten or scratched.
    
    If you plan to take them into your home, give them a room of their own,
    preferably a small area without a lot of furniture of items they can
    hide under or behind.  You want to them to get used to seeing you and
    hearing your voice.  This may mean just sitting in the room with them
    for hours on end, perhaps doing paperwork or noting if you have a
    terminal at home :^).  Let them feel comfortable with you rather than
    force yourself upon them all at once.
    
    I'm running out of advice, but if you have any particular questions I
    haven't addressed, please let me know.  I have had lots of experience
    in this area.
    
    Good luck!
    
    -Roberta
    
    
    
    

    The National Pet Alliance (NPA) has a program called TTVAR (trap, test
    vaccinate, alter, and release) and they may have representatives in
    your area.  This organization is fairly "young", so they may not be as
    prevalent in the east as they are in the west.  If you are having a
    problem with feral cats in your neighborhood, it would be worthwhile to
    at least check to see if they can help.
    
    For information about the TTVAR program please call (415)591-6404.
    (this area code is in northern California)
    
    Jo

    The three ferals I trapped and adopted last summer are ... gorgeous,
    well-behaved, quiet, intelligent, gentle beauties.  :-)
    
    However, the little colony on Nubble Light, York Beach, Maine -- is
    still thriving.  Five remain ... grandmother and her two daughters and
    their half-sister and half-brother.  Grandmother is hugely pregnant,
    and I'm sure all her daughters will soon be, as the TOM's are back.
    
    These five are trap-smart.  They simply won't go near it.  My friend
    has also attempted capturing them by adding a fast-acting tranquilizer
    to pieces of cheese -- didn't work.  She is now investigating a
    dog-catcher in another town, who captures stray cats with a dart gun
    and fast-acting tranquilizers.
    
    My immediate concern is for the pregnant mother.  She had a litter last
    fall, but the kittens never showed up.  They either were killed by some
    form of wildlife, or just simply didn't survive for some other reason.
    I'm sure these cats must be full of fleas, and the fleas could have
    "done in" last fall's litter.
    
    My friend feeds this colony dry food, milk, and water.  Is there
    something that can be added to the dry food to help control or
    eliminate the flea problem so that the mother's litter will have a
    fighting chance?
    
    Also, would it help to put towels or old blankets in the colony's
    "house" so that the mother might choose to have her litter there and
    not in the dirt and leaves?
    
    Thanks,
    
    Jo-Ann

    Jo-Ann
    
    the shelter uses yeast in with their wet food to help control fleas!!
    Not sure what you could put in the dry food???
    
    I would put the blanket in the colony house...because it would be
    much better if she had the kittens close by so your friend could
    keep her eye on them.
    
    Keep us posted on the progress.
    
    Sandy
    
    

Doug,

I have my own personal Hav-a-Hart trap that you can borrow, fee free, if you're
in the area.  I live in Nashua, work at ZKO2....

Mary

    RE: .4
    
    If it yeast of "Brewers yeast"?
    
    Deb

    I've been having better luck with a new trap I bought from 
    Animal Care Equipment of Crestline Ca. 800-338-ACES for a catalog.
    I bought a racoon size trap (36D), it has a wide opening and has the most
    quiet trip mechanism compared to others.  The cats I've caught didn't
    even know the door had closed. It's also painted maroon and not
    visually as noticeable. The catalog contains lots of professional
    equipment used by shelters.  For $50 it would be worth your purchase
    and if you don't use it but this once you could always rent it out
    I don't think it would take long to recoup the cost.
    The tranquilizer method seems a bit risky but then it depends on the
    severity of the problem.

    Is the mechanism you set to trap easy to maneuver?  I am not very good
    with the Hav-a-Harts and find them cumbersome to set.
    
    I just called to order a catalog.  My husband feels we should just
    purchase a trap rather than rent it, since I always seem to be in need
    of one.
    
    Thanks for the pointer!!
    

    There are a couple of things that I don't like about the Hav-a-Harts --
    my main problem is their noise.  The sound of the doors slamming down
    sends chills down your spine...and the sound of the trapped kitten
    racing back and forth banging its head is sickening.  Whenever we set
    the trap, we were prepared to instantly rush out and calm the kitten(s)
    a.s.a.p.
    
    Which leads to the second problem.  How to get the kitten transferred
    to a cage or carrier without it escaping.  
    
    I'll call this morning and order the catalog.  Maybe a different trap
    will do the trick with the remaining Maine-iacs.
    
    Jo-Ann

    Jo-Ann,
    
    Everything you said in -1 is right on!!  I hate the sound of the trap
    slamming too and the cats running back and forth flippping out.
    
    I don't transfer them at all, just take them in the trap to the vet. 
    That is why I mentioned in .1 to have a game plan ready with a vet or
    humane society ahead of time.  Most are very amenable and will allow
    you to drop the cat off for a tune up.  :^)
    
    I definitely want to invest in a trap.  "It has been too long for orange
    kitty" being outside on his own.  We have really fattened him up but
    even after a year, he is still terrified of us.  I tried to win his
    trust and catch him without the trap but he is just too frightened of
    everything.  I plan to do the trap, test, vaccinate, neuter, and
    release method with him, for now anyway.  It will be a good start.
    
    The woman I spoke to on the 800# mentioned several traps they sell. 
    When I receive the catalog, I'll bring it in and post the descriptions.
    
    -Roberta
    

    >The tranquilizer method seems a bit risky but then it depends on the
    >severity of the problem.
    
    I agree.  But I think the severity is a matter of perspective.  I'm
    aware of three perspectives with the feral colony in Maine.  The
    perspective of severity that I TRY to hold onto is best described by
    Desmond Morris in "Catwatching" ...
    
    "Without restraint a cat population can increase at a startling rate.
    ...A simple calculation, starting with a single breeding pair of
    domestic cats, and allowing for a total of fourteen kittens in each
    three-litter year, reveals that in five years' time there will be a
    total of 65,536 cats..."
    
    That's severe.
    
    From Ginny's perspective (my friend with the feral colony), this whole
    cat-thing is something she can ill afford.  She is nearing 70 years
    old, is on a fixed income -- last summer when there were 15
    cat/kittens, her budget was strained by the food and milk.  Constant
    trap-setting, waiting, watching is stressful.  The 3 or 4 toms that
    fertilize these ferals don't really mind spraying her deck, house,
    stonewall, etc.
    
    From my perspective -- what a challenge this has been.  These
    cats/kittens are beautiful!  I own three of them -- I find them very
    curious creatures...well-behaved, gentle, funny ... goofballs.  I keep
    thinking of new "bright ideas" for capturing the remaining 5, getting
    them to the shelter, releasing the older ones to live out their life
    under Ginny's care.  
    
    But I'm 100 miles away from the problem.  I think blankets need to be 
    placed in their living area (a cottage crawl space) so that the kittens 
    won't be born in the dirt -- but I'm not there to do it.  Would you ask
    your grandmother to get down and slither through the dirt to place some
    bedding under a house?
    
    I'll try another kind of trap -- as soon as I get one.  Ginny, on the
    other hand, who has five cats (one who is and three others who may be
    pregnant) knocking on her kitchen door if she's late with their breakfast, 
    is trying to make arrangements for the dart-tranquilizer method.
    
    Jo-Ann
          

    re: .2
    I called NPA about their program (TTVAR) to see if it is operation here
    on the east coast, and to get more information about the program. 
    Here's the gist of my phone conversation ... I'll be getting more
    information in the mail.
    
    The program has been in operation (in California) since October, 1991,
    and so far has been very successful.  It is not yet on the east coast
    because they don't have any volunteers out here.  Funding is through
    the National Pet Alliance (NPA).
    
    TTVAR is (as Jo stated) an acronym for Trap, Test, Vaccinate, Alter,
    and Release.  They will associate with existing programs, provided
    the TTVAR philosophy is heeded.  That philosophy is quantity -- get 
    to as many ferals as quickly as possible.  They do NO taming, they 
    make NO attempts to adopt -- the ferals are released.
    
    Three things in particular that they feel very strongly about are:
    	
    	1.  TEST.  The ferals must be tested for FIV and FeLV.
    	2.  If the FeLV test is positive the cat must be euthanized.
    	3.  Pregnant cats must be spayed -- no waiting for the litter to
    	    be born. 
    
    I asked if the program allowed releasing the ferals to no-kill shelters
    so that the ferals could be adopted rather than released to the wild. 
    The woman I spoke with said yes, provided the no-kill shelter status
    was for real.  She said it didn't make sense to fund testing, and
    altering if the cat is just going to be euthanized because it's not
    adoptable -- that's why they just release them. 
    
    Jo-Ann

Just to let all you New England feral cat aficionados know about a workshop
that Tufts Center for Animals & Public Policy in North Grafton, MA is spon-
soring:

	June 26, 1992                                 10:00 a.m. - 5:00 p.m.

	ARE FERAL CATS BETTER OFF DEAD THAN ALIVE?

	Tufts University School of Veterinary Medicine
	Adminstration Building
	Lecture Room - 2nd Floor
	200 Westboro Road
	North Grafton, MA 01536

	Are feral cats better off dead than alive?  Is it better to be
	alive but struggling or dead and at peace?  These and other con-
	troversial issues will be examined during this seminar.  Data on
	feral cat colonies and feral cat health will be presented.

	Registration fee: $45.00
	(printed materials and box lunches provided)

Call the Center at 508-839-5302 x4750 for more information or to register.

    Please forgive my ignorance, but the term Feral is foreign to me.  Can
    someone give a lay person's definition of the term?
    
    As I mentioned in 31. Barney is a "stray" and likely is/about to be
    past tense homeless, but is definitely not wild and untamed in any
    sense of the word.  Not if he turns cartwheels of joy on the back steps
    on his first visit to our home!
    
    Lyn

    Lyn,
    
     I know what you mean about not knowing what feral means. It took me a
    while to nail down some semblance of a definition.
    
     Here's my interpretation of a feral cat. (I won't be insulted if
    someone needs to correct me either!)
    
     A feral cat is a cat/kitten that has been raised in the outdoors
    without any human contact. The cats many time will live in large
    colonies, and all kittens arr raised to be very wary of humans, and are
    usually very quiet to avoid being found by predators. They are not
    'wild' cats, they are just raised in the wild.
    
     If you can get a feral to come around to trust you, you have one of
    the most loving critters to walk God's good earth! They may never like
    strangers though, until they get tused to them. They need a lot of work
    and tender loving care, but most of them will eventually come around.
    
     I cried the first time Nancy Cross' Cyrano came over to me and let me
    pet him! It took a whole year! Now he almost pesters me to be loved!
    Needless to say, I never deny him!
    
     I hope this helps. If you have any other questions on soemthing I may
    have missed, fire away, and I'll do my best to answer you.
    
    Love,
    
    Yonee

    Here's some helpful information about trapping ferals that I found on
    the web.
    
% Subject: http://www.electriciti.com/~rsavage/trapinst.html#A1.1
    
                        Humane Trapping Instructions

These instructions assume that trappers are using traps from the Tomahawk
Live Trap Company. Specifics regarding the traps may be slightly different
if you are using another type of trap. Make arrangements with the vet in
advance of trapping. Be sure to tell the vet to use stitches which will
dissolve, or do not need removal, and that the animal is wild. You may want
to take a pet carrier to the vets office and ask the vet to transfer the
cat into it after surgery. The carrier will be more comfortable for the cat
if you need to care for the cat at all between the time it leaves the vet
and its release

   * Preparation for trapping
   * Setting the traps
   * Waiting for success
   * Holding procedures
   * Releasing the cats
   * Helpful hints

Preparation for trapping

If possible, get the cats used to being fed at the same place and time of
day. You might try leaving the trap unset and covered with a large towel
during routine feeding so that the animal will get used to seeing and
smelling it in the area. Dont feed the cats the day/night before you are
going to trap so the cats will be hungry. Be sure to notify others who may
feed the cats not to leave food out either.

Plan to trap so that you dont have to keep the cat too long before surgery.
Trapping the night before is usually the best approach. Cats should not eat
12 hours prior to surgery. Water should be available if the cat is held in
the trap for more than 4 hours after capture.

Prepare the area where you will be holding the cats before and after the
clinic. A garage or other sheltered, warm, protected area is best. Lay down
newspapers to catch the inevitable stool, urine and food residue. You may
want to use pieces of wood to elevate the traps off the newspapers. This
allows the mess to fall through the wire away from the cats. Spraying the
area ahead of time with a cat-safe flea spray (like Adams or Ovitrol) will
discourage ants.

Prepare the vehicle you will use to transport them as well. Plastic may be
an additional precaution. But remember that you will need to use newspapers
or some other absorbent material in addition. ( Urine will roll right off of
the plastic and that isnt what you want )

Plan your day of trapping carefully. Remember that if you trap an animal and
release it for some reason, it is unlikely that you will be able to catch it
again.they learn very quickly.

If there are young kittens involved, remember that they should not be weaned
from the mother before 4-6 weeks of age. If you are trapping a lactating
female, you may want to wait until you have located the kittens and they are
old enough to wean. If you wish to tame and foster the kittens to adopt out,
they should be taken from the mother at 4-6 weeks. If you wait until the
kittens are older than 4-6 weeks before trying to tame them you will find
the job progressively harder with age.

Setting the traps

Plan to set traps just before or at the cats normal feeding time. This is
often at night. Dusk is usually the best time to set traps.

Dont trap in the rain or the heat of day without adequate protection for
the trap. Cats are vulnerable in the traps and could drown during storms or
suffer from heatstroke in the sun. Use common sense !

Fold a piece of newspaper to line the bottom of the trap just covering the
trip plate. Cats dont like walking on the wire surface and the paper helps
to keep their feet from going through when you pick up the trap. Be sure
that the paper does not extend beyond the trip plate. Too much newspaper can
interfere with the trap mechanism or prevent the door from closing properly.

Plan placement of traps on a level surface in the area where the cats
usually feed or have been seen. Cats are less likely to enter the trap if it
wobbles. If trapping in a public area, try to place traps where they will
not be noticed by passersby (who may not understand that you are not trying
to harm the cat). Bushes are often places where cats hide and provide good
camouflage for the trap.

Use smelly food to bait the trap. We find that canned Mackerel is very
effective and relatively inexpensive. It is best not to put any bowls inside
the trap to hold food since the animal can easily hurt itself on it in a
panic or while recovering from anesthetic.

Soak a small scrap of newspaper (2-3 inches by 3-4 inches) in the Mackerel
juice and place it on the ground where you plan to place the rear of the
trap.

Spoon a small amount of food onto the soaked newspaper scrap and place the
trap on top of the food so the food is as far back in the trap as possible
while still not accessible from outside the trap. (You want the cat to go
all the way into the trap to avoid being injured when the trap door closes.)
Press the trap down onto the food so that it squishes up through the wire.
The idea is to make the food a little hard to get so that the cat has to go
into the trap as far as possible and has to work at getting it long enough
to trip the trap. (Some cats are very good at getting in and out of traps
without getting caught. We dont want to make it too easy for them to get
away with that trick. Also, having the food essentially outside of the trap
prevents the cat from eating it in the trap before surgery and is less
messy.)

After baiting the trap, open the trap door by pushing the top of the door in
and pulling the bottom of the door upward. There is a small hook attached to
the right side of the trap top. It hooks onto a tiny metal cylinder on the
right side of the door. The hook holds the door in an open position which
also raises the trip plate. When the cat steps on the plate it will cause
the hook to release the door and close the trap.

After setting the trap, cover it with a large towel or piece of towel-sized
material. Fold the material at the front end of the trap to expose the
opening while still covering the top, sides and back of the trap. The cover
will help to camouflage the trap and serve to calm the cat after it is
caught.

Just before you are ready to leave the trap for the cat to enter, you may
want to push the hook (ever so slightly) a little bit back off the cylinder
to create a "hair trigger". (Dont get too carried away with this step or
the trap will trip as soon as the cat takes a sniff!)

Waiting for success

Never leave traps unattended in an unprotected area, but dont hang around
within sight of the cat (or you will scare it off). The trapped animal is
vulnerable. Passersby may release the cat or steal the trap! Wait quietly in
an area where you can still see the traps without disturbing the cats. Check
traps every 15 minutes or so. You can often hear the traps trip and see the
cloth cover droop down slightly over the opening from a distance. As soon as
the intended cat is trapped completely cover the trap and remove the trap
from the area if other cats are not in sight. You may consider putting
another trap in the same spot if it seems to be a "hot" one. Be sure to
dispose of the food left on the ground when you pick up the trap. (You dont
want to litter or give out any freebies and spoil any appetites!)

When you get the captured cat to a quiet area away from the other traps lift
the cover and check for signs that you have the correct animal and not a pet
or previously neutered feral. (The FCC marks the right ear of every animal
we alter so we can avoid repeat animals) If you note that you have captured
a lactating female check the area for kittens and remember that this female
must be released 10-12 hours after surgery so she can care for and nurse her
kittens. Cover the cat back up as soon as possible. Uncovered, the animal
may panic and hurt itself thrashing around in the trap.

Of course, there is always the chance that you will catch some other wild
animal attracted to the food or an unintended cat. Simply release the animal
quietly as stated in the releasing procedures here.

Holding procedures

After you have finished trapping, you will probably have to hold the cats
overnight until you can take them to the vet. (Unless you have made previous
arrangements with a vet)

Place cats in the prepared protected area. Dont feed them. You can place a
small bowl of water in the trap by opening the trap door just a couple of
inches and placing the bowl by the trap door. Try to use a bowl that wont
be tipped over easily. An empty catfood or tuna can works fairly well. Dont
open the door too wide or the cat may escape. (Be sure to remove the bowl
before transporting the cat to the vet.)

Keep cats covered and check periodically. They will probably be very quiet
as long as they are covered. Dont stick fingers in the trap or allow
children or pets near the traps. These are wild animals which scratch and
bite. ALL ANIMAL BITES ARE SERIOUS! IF YOU ARE BITTEN SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION
AND DO NOT RELEASE THE CAT. IT MUST BE QUARANTINED. CONTACT YOUR VET FOR
QUARANTINE INSTRUCTIONS.

Wash and change clothes before having contact with your own pets as a
precaution against spreading any contagious diseases the cats might carry.

Always get feral kittens checked out by a vet and isolate them from your
pets. Some deadly diseases can incubate without symptoms. Check with your
veterinarian and use caution.

Releasing the cats

If a cat does not seem to be recovering well from the surgery, consider
having it checked out by a vet before releasing. When cats are ready for
release, return to the area in which they were captured and release them
there. Do not relocate the animal! It will be disoriented and most likely
die. In all likelihood, area cats will drive it away.

If the veterinarian has indicated a serious medical problem with the cat
which you will not be able to treat, you, with the advice of the vet, must
make the decision on whether it is safe to release the animal or kinder to
euthanize it. Untreated abscesses and respiratory infections, and a number
of other conditions, can mean suffering and a slow death.

Make sure the spot you pick for release does not encourage the cat to run
into danger (like a busy street) to get away from you. Keep the trap covered
until you are ready to release. When ready, simply hold the trap with the
door facing away from you and open the door. The cat will probably bolt
immediately out of the trap. If it is confused, just tilt the trap so the
back is slightly up and tap on the back of the trap to encourage it to
leave. Never put your hand in the trap! If the animal still will not leave,
prop the door open with a stick and leave it for a while. A trapped skunk or
possum, which is nocturnal, may decide to sleep in the trap all day and not
leave the trap until dark.

After releasing the cats hose off traps and disinfect them with bleach.
Never store traps in the "set" position (door open); animals may wander into
even unbaited traps and starve to death.

Helpful hints

Bring a flashlight with you if trapping at night. It will come in handy for
checking traps from a distance and might help you avoid a twisted ankle in
the dark.

Bring a cap for the top of the Mackerel can. Nothing smells worse than fish
juice spilled in the car. Dont forget a spoon!

Females with kittens will be attracted by the sound of their kittens if the
previously captured kittens are placed in a covered carrier just behind the
trap. Similarly, kittens will be easier to trap if the previously captured
mom is in the carrier. Females in heat can be placed in a carrier to attract
male cats who have been eluding the traps. Never place the "bait" animal in
the trap or anywhere where it may be harmed by the trapped animal. Even moms
can hurt their babies if frightened enough. Be careful not to let the "bait"
animal escape.

Some kittens can be caught without a trap but are still too wild to be
handled easily. Use a thick towel to pick up the kitten to help protect you
from scratching and biting. This also helps prevent the kitten from
squirming away from you.

For advice regarding the taming and/or fostering of feral or orphaned
kittens consult your veterinarian. You may also obtain information on these
subjects from the Feral Cat Coalition.

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    Re: .16
    
    One thing I would add is, where they say it's important to give the cat
    water, check with the vet about how long the water should be removed
    before surgery.
    

    
    
    Does anyone have a contact (relative, friend, non-kill shelter sponsor) in
    the Ft. Lauderdale, Florida area who could help this woman?   I met a 
    woman, Helen, who has been feeding a colony of feral cats for the past 
    three years.  The colony numbers about 15 now.
    
    She needs help with this problem. I think that she would work with
    someone to trap and spay/neuter the cats.  I do not have contacts
    in this area, and did not get much helpful information from the Broward
    County Humane Soc.  I am sure that there must be a network of cat-lovers 
    who sponser no-kill shelters in this area of Florida.  
    
    I will forward information from this notesfile regarding ferals to her,
    and would appreciate any no-kill shelter contacts and/or people working
    with ferals in this area.
    
    Eleanor
    297-4325
                                                             

    Since I seem to be permanently in the cat rescue business (feral cats
    especially) I think it might be time for me to invest in a Tokyo cage.
    
    A Tokyo cage is a two or three level cage with platforms inside for 
    the cats to move around on.  It sits on a removable base.  The bases 
    I've seen have wheels so the cage can be moved around easily.
    
    Does anyone know what the going rate for these cages might be?  Does
    anyone know of a place that sells them for better than the going rate?
    
    Pet Club has a large black cage with black rubber platforms.  I 
    think they want $200 for it.  I'm not all that fond of the black 
    rubber platforms.  I'm hoping for a platform covered in something
    like what they use on kitchen or bathroom floors.  I think it would
    be easier to clean.
    
    Jan

    
    RC Steele as wll as many other pet supply catalogs have a variety of
    cat "cages" some with two shelves, some one, and possibly  one with
    three....sorry I don't have any contact info/phone #'s with me but 
    if you're interested I can have them for you tomorrow.  I have also
    found that large dog crates, (the wire ones, but make sure the spacing
    is not too wide) work well and you can often get them used for very
    good prices.
    
    MaryAnne

There is a wire dog crate for sale today in the classified ads file.

Laura

    Thanks for the responses.  I'm currently reevaluating exactly what I
    need in a cage.  I may end up having a friend (the one who built my
    cat tree) build one for me.  Sandy reminded me that whatever cage I
    get will need to have easy access to the cat, especially if it is a
    feral cat.  In addition to that it cannot take up too much floor space
    since I have a tiny apartment.  That's why I was originally thinking of
    a Tokyo cage since there are a couple of levels for the cat to move
    around on and it's taller than it is wide.
    
    As it is now, Dolly may end up living in whatever cage I get.  She's
    currently confined to the bathroom in an attempt to reintroduce proper
    litterbox behavior.
    
    Jan
                                              

    I spoke to my friend (Bob Roseberry of Katrees Cat Supplies) about the
    merits of various cages and the current pricing.  He gave me the going
    rate on Tokyo cages of the cheap and not-so-cheap variety as well as
    the pros and cons of each.  He then suggested a great alternative.
    
    He buys used cat show cages from an animal rescue group for $15 a
    piece.  They use the money for their programs.  He then builds a type
    of Tokyo cage out of these show cages.  He charges $125 for the cage
    which covers his materials costs and labor for putting the cages together
    and building the flooring and shelving.  It doesn't seem like he's
    making much for all the time and trouble.
    
    Basically, the cage is two show cages stacked on top of each other with
    a wood bottom covered with vinyl flooring material and shelves made of 
    the same material.  The bottom is on wheels so it is easily moved.  The
    entire thing comes apart and folds up for storage.  The cages are 21
    inches deep by 45 inches wide by 54 inches tall (two 27 inch high cages 
    stacked on top of each other).  Show cages have two doors, one on each 
    side of the cage.  So, there'll be a total of 4 doors in this thing.  
    This will give me relatively easy access to all parts of the cage.
    
    Now, here's the best part.  Bob is a vendor at the upcoming Reveler's
    Cat Show March 22nd and 23rd.  It's is the biggest show in our area. 
    His wife usually shows a cat and works the booth to help him out.  She
    has been told not to enter any cats in this show as he expects to be
    exceptionally busy.  I offered to come up and help him out since I'm
    not entered in the show.  He thinks this is a great idea and for the
    price of my assistance in his booth that weekend and 1 hug he will give 
    me one of his cages.  Works for me!!
    
    Jan  
                                     

    I've been bombarding Karen Kolling with mail about every little detail
    of my feral colony (I'm so proud of these kitties) for weeks now. 
    Guess it's time to share the wealth. :^)
    
    Unfortunately, today's story is a scarey one.  You see, these cats have
    gotten to know either the sound of my car or my pattern of driving past
    their area, making a u-turn and driving past again.  I then park in
    whatever area is available near what I call the "cat tree".  This is
    usually 50 feet or so past the tree.  I usually get out of the car and
    find 5-6 cats waiting behind my car.
    
    I've had a few odd experiences lately.  Once a woman stopped her car
    next to mine, leaned out her window and said "there are kittens behind
    your car".  
    
    Once I parked on the opposite side of the road and ended up with 5 cats 
    sitting in the middle of the road waiting for me to get the food out of 
    the trunk.  I learned at that moment that I always had to park on the 
    same side of the street as the cat tree.
    
    Once as I drove past Bob and The Princess ran towards my car (but
    stayed on their side of the road).  I discovered them coming towards me
    as I made my u-turn.  Luckily they stayed by the side and we didn't
    have a problem.
    
    Last night I drove past and made the u-turn.  There were Bob and the
    Princess running towards my car.  The Princess was on the side of the
    road but Bob was running down the middle of the road.  Ack!!!  I slowed
    down hoping he'd get out of the road but he stood there waiting for me
    and, what's worse, Bob Jr. joined him.  So, here we are at a stand off.
    I can't move because Bob is blocking the road.  Bob won't move cuz...
    I've got the food.  About a block up the road I see that a car is
    coming our direction so I get out of my car hoping to chase Bob and 
    son back to the right side of the road.  No dice.  They run to the
    left.  Bob Jr. heads under a parked car but Bob stands there still sort
    of in the road.  Double Ack!!  So, I move closer to Bob and he finally 
    runs to the right side of the road.  Jr. follows him a second later.
    Ack again!  That was too close.  
    
    Thank god the oncoming car had to slow down because my car was sort of 
    near the middle of the road instead of completely on my side.  
    
    All kitties made it back to their side of the street without further
    incident.  I, however, am scarred for life.  I'm rethinking my pattern
    of arrival at the colony.  I'm thinking now that it would be better if
    I went around the block and came up the street only once.  Then they
    could follow me safely on their side of the road until I park.  
    
    Ahhh, the joys of feral colony management (or lack of management) :^}
    
    Jan
                                

    Attempting to recover my own ghost note.
    
    Jan

Found this on the Web at :http://www.feralcat.com/taming.html

Thought it was interesting!

Taming Feral Kittens

Taming Feral Kittens







Feral cats are homeless cats, many of whom were born in the wild; others

are pets who were abandoned or have become lost. They are for all

intents and purposes wild animals. Those adult stray cats which were

once owned, or feral cats of quiet temperament, may sometimes be

tamed with patience. However, the feral kitten is often easily tamed if it

is captured young enough. Considering the short miserable lives that

feral cats suffer, those kittens which can be tamed and adopted by

humans are indeed lucky.



Feral moms usually give birth in quiet unseen spots where kittens will not

be visible for several weeks. With no human contact they will be totally

wild. When kittens begin to romp and play, they are first noticed by

humans but are not easily captured. They may be captured in humane

traps (available from the Feral Cat Coalition) and should be taken from

the mother at 4 to 6 weeks of age. Older kittens can also be captured and

tamed but the process gets slower and less successful the longer the

kittens stay in the wild. They should not be taken from the mother before

they are old enough to be weaned at about 4 weeks. Kittens taken too

young are vulnerable to disease and may not survive. The mother cat

should also be captured and spayed to prevent future litters.



The process of taming kittens can take from 2 to 6 weeks (longer for

some exceptionally skittish kittens) depending on their age and state of

wildness. Individuals can differ greatly in temperament even within the

same litter. Some may tame up immediately and some may take quite a

long time. Any person attempting to tame kittens should be totally

committed and patient. The taming process is certainly worthwhile. You

are saving lives and producing affectionate loving companions.



The steps involved in the taming process are:

1. Containment (I) in a cage or large pet carrier

2. Periodic and brief handling with a protective towel

3. Containment (II) in a small room

4. Exposure to other humans

5. Placement in suitable adoptive homes



CONTAINMENT I



A feral kitten may hiss and at humans. They are usually terrified of

humans. The kitten which acts the most ferocious is just the most scared,

but it is capable of giving you a nasty scratch or bite and will probably

try to escape if given the chance. Remember that to the kitten you may

be a predator; the kitten may think it is fighting for its life.



ALL BITES ARE SERIOUS. IF BITTEN SEEK MEDICAL ATTENTION AND

QUARANTINE THE KITTEN.



Feral kittens should be checked out by a veterinarian and tested for

diseases contagious to other cats before you bring them home. Keep

them isolated from your pet cats, wash your hands, and wear a smock (or

change clothes between handling visits) to protect against the spread of

disease from the kittens to pets or from pets to kitten.



If a trap was used to capture the kitten, transfer the kitten to a cage or a

pet carrier large enough for a small litter box and bedding. Place it in a

small room away from family pets and children. Be careful not to allow

the kitten to escape during the transfer process.



For the first two days, do not attempt handling. The kittens must learn to

feel safe. Visit them frequently and talk to them quietly, but resist

touching. Always move slowly.



Food and water and bedding should be placed in the cage or carrier.

Many cages and carriers have food and water bowls attached to the

doors so that you can feed and water the kittens without having to place

your hand inside. If you do not have a cage, or your carrier is too small

for a litter pan, place the kittens in a small room, like a bathroom, in the

carrier. Place the litter box in the room and leave the carrier door open so

that the kittens have access to the box.



Some people use worn clothing as the kittens
 bedding to get them used

to the smell of humans.



HANDLING



After 2 days, select the least aggressive kitten, place a towel over it, and

pick it up in the towel. If the kitten stays calm, pet it gently on the head

from behind. Never approach from the front. A hand coming at the kittens

frightens them which may cause them to hiss or bite.



If the kitten remains calm, grip it securely by the nape of the neck, put

the towel on your lap and set it on the towel. Stroke the kitten
s body

while speaking in soft, reassuring tones, then release. Make this first

physical contact brief. Go through this process with each kitten. After all

have been handled, give them a special treat. Baby food or Hills "a/d"

brand canned food off a spoon is always a great ice-breaker. Repeat this

process as frequently as possible.



Brushing with a soft pet brush imitates the action of the mother grooming

the kittens and will help the kitten start to transfer its need for parental

love to you. It is also extremely important for the health of the kittens to

remove fleas as soon as possible. Kittens become anemic from flea

infestation and can easily fall prey to illnesses in this condition. Combing

with a flea comb also helps the bonding process.



Never stare at the kittens for prolonged periods. This is aggressive body

language to cats. Avert your eyes frequently and lower your head often

to display submissive behavior. This will be less threatening to the

kittens.



Play with the kittens using "kitty tease" toys (a tiny piece of cloth tied to

a string which is tied to a small stick) or lightweight cat toys. Don
t leave

the "kitty tease" alone with the kittens as kittens will often swallow

string. This can be fatal. 



CONTAINMENT II



Within a week the kittens should have made considerable progress. Each

kitten will develop at a different rate. They should have access to the

room and can be placed in the cage only if necessary.



If there is one that is not becoming tame, place it in a separate cage in

another room, away from the others. This will allow you to work with the

baby more frequently and will increase it
s dependence on a human. It

will also prevent perpetuation of wildness in the littermates. All members

of some litters must be isolated as not to reinforce wildness in the group.



A large room may overwhelm a timid kitten and cause increased fear.

Bedrooms can be a problem. If kittens become frightened and go under

the bed it can be difficult to get them to come out and stressful for them

if you force them out.



Also try to kitten-proof the room as much as possible before letting the

kittens out into the room. Seal up any nooks and crannies where

frightened kittens may enter and become trapped or inaccessible to you.

Bathroom sinks often have spaces between the kickboard and the

cabinet just large enough for the kitten. Block access to behind

bookcases and heavy furniture behind which the kitten can become

wedged. Be careful of open toilets and anything which could be climbed

and pulled down on top of the kitten causing possible injury. Protect

vulnerable knick knacks, clothes, and plants (some poisonous) from

curious kittens. 



EXPOSURE



When the kittens no longer respond by biting and scratching, encourage

friends to handle them as often as possible. It is very important that they

socialize with other humans. Feral cats tend to bond with one human so

they best adjust to a new home if they are socialized with other humans

before being adopted out. 



PLACEMENT



Kittens can be adopted out at 8 weeks or so if tamed and socialized to

humans.



When screening prospective "parents" remember that the kitten will do

best if there are no small children in the home. All the work you have

done can be easily shattered by normal kid activity and noise. This is

vital to remember when placing the kittens for adoption. The most

suitable home is a calm environment so the kittens will feel secure. The

ideal home is one which will keep their pet indoors and will take 2 kittens

together (actually easier to care for and more fun to watch) or that will

have an adult home during the day.



Be sure that you inform the adoptive family that the kitten must be

neutered. This can be done as early as 8 weeks of age. You may want to

ask for a refundable deposit from the adoptive family to encourage them

to neuter. Or you may want to neuter it yourself and ask the new owner to

reimburse you. Many forms and contracts exist for doing this. For

example, FOCAS, the Humane Society, and the Department of Animal

Control all have such agreements.



IT IS IMPORTANT TO MAKE SURE THIS CAT DOES NOT HAVE BABIES,

OR YOU MAY FIND YOURSELF TRYING TO FIND A FAMILY FOR ITS

KITTENS.