| My father constructed a putting green in our back yard and enjoyed
it for a number of years. He found an old push-type greens mower
and used it successfully. If you were down here in Alabama, I could
help you re: designing/constructing the green, but I know nothing
about growing greens in your area. The previous advise about
contacting the USGA is good. You might also contact a Greens
Superintendent at one of your area clubs. The biggest concern that
we had with our practice green was the almost constant maintenance
required. It required mowing very regularly, else the grass became
course and would turn brown when mowed again. Otherwise, the cost
of maintenance was low, and the enjoyment high. Good luck.
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| I worked at a country club for 8 years and have had experience in
this area.
Building a regular golf green (that is, one that you play to from
the tee) costs about $60,000 for the soil, seed, labor, and various
chemicals. Of course, the price will rise or fall depending on the
size of the green itself.
You really have to buy a greens mower if you want a quality green.
They aren't cheap. The walking ones should be good for home greens
because they are relatively inexpensive (and you may even get a
used one at a great price). I will say that the Toro triplex
(Greensmower III) costs about $8,000. But I don't think you want
that for home use.
The grass is no cheap date either. If you are in New England, then
bent grass is your best bet. Getting the green started is the tough
part.
Many things to consider:
1) The green really has to be mowed *everyday* or at least every
other day. Otherwise, it will grow too high and when you do mow
it, you will cut it too short for its current length and some of
the grass will die. General rule of thumb is to not cut more than
1/3 of the grass plant when mowing.
2) If you are going to mow it everyday, then you are going to have
to water it every night. This can be accomplished real easy with
a sprinkler and a hose.
3) In the fall, you may want to aerify the green. You may also want
to get a thatching reel for your mower.
4) Nothing hurts a green more than cutworms, chinch bugs and grubs.
Pesticides are a must.
5) In the hot summer days, and the cooler nights the green will
have dew on them in the morning. Well, that is prime conditions
for disease like pythium, red thread and various other damaging
fungi. This can be cured with a fungicide (spray it on and it works).
6) Gee, I almost forgot, you will have to get a hole cutter! Again,
it is easiest to get a used one.
When we built greens up at the country club I worked at, we required
a gravel base (for drainage) followed by a layer of sand and then
12 inches of top soil (when rolled). Nothing hurts your hole cutter
more than drying to cut a hole and hitting a rock (it dulls your
cutter amongst other things).
In the spring, we rolled all our greens, in the summer we verticut
them (with a thatching reel), we also sprayed lots of chemicals
for preventative maintenance in the summer (boy, those monkey suits
and fly masks are hot in 90 degree heat) and finally, in the fall,
you aerified, top dressed and overseeded all the greens.
As you can see, there are many hours of work that go into a golf
green. However, since this is for home use, you can cut out a lot
of the excess baggage (because you aren't looking for a 10 on the
stimpmeter and if you are I wish you mounds of luck).
I know of a former club champion who has a green in his yard and
the only drawback that he claims is that he has to put in about
2 hours of work per day on it. That's not too bad considering the
benefit. But he also has a sand trap, "rough" and a collar around
his green. It's also a pretty good size green.
Mike, former assistant greenskeeper
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