| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 78.1 | | CALLME::MR_TOPAZ | | Tue Mar 03 1987 20:24 | 40 |
| Unfortunately, this note is being written by someone who doesn't
know much about golf, either, but that has never stopped me before:
> 1) How is handicap figured? How is it used in tournament play?
In simple terms, your handicap is about the number of strokes by which
you would normally exceed par on a reasonably good day. The algorithm
that is used to calculate your handicap is based on the raw scores
that you turn in (generally to your course or club handicap committee)
and the USGA rating for your golf course.
The use of the handicap in tournament play depends entirely on the
tournament rules. In match play, where one golfer plays only against
one other golfer and the scoring is based on the number of holes won
and lost (as opposed to total score for 18 holes), the difference
between your handicap and your opponent's handicap represents the
number of "strokes" that you (or your opponent) get. For example, if
your handicap is 15 and your opponent's is 10, then your opponent has
to give you 5 strokes. You get these on the five most difficult
holes, as shown on the scorecard.
> 2) What does the term "hands ahead of the ball" mean?
Think of a vertical line that goes straight down to the ground from
your hands. When your hands are "ahead of the ball," it means that
your hands have passed the ball before the clubhead reaches the same
point. This can result in a push or slice (the ball heads off to the
right if you're a right-handed golfer), depending upon what else
happens with your swing.
> 3) Would a *good* set of clubs really benefit the beginning player?
Sure they would. A good set of perimeter-weighted clubs that are
well-balanced will make it easier for you to learn a good swing. With
a garage-sale set (which could be a decent set, but is more likely to
be a hodge-podge of mismatched clubs with different shafts), you'll
have a more difficult time. Besides, if you fork out the bucks for
some sticks, you'll have more incentive to improve your game.
--Mr Topaz
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| 78.2 | | ARMORY::WELLSPEAK | Beak | Tue Mar 03 1987 21:24 | 7 |
| RE .1
Some good advice, Mr. Topaz. Sticks will make a
difference, in that they should all be weigthed in the same
fashion, and should all have the same shaft stiffness. This
will result in a consistant swing, no matter which club you
use.
Beak
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| 78.3 | I must politely disagree | CHAMP::KEVIN | Kevin O'Brien | Wed Mar 04 1987 00:28 | 31 |
|
Mr Topaz is essentially correct, however your handicap is computed
somewhat differently that what he described. Your handicap is 96%
of the difference between your average adjusted score minus the
course rating. Actually it the average of the best 10 of the last
20 rounds.
Adjusted score if figured this way. If you handicap if over 18
(score over 90) then you are allowed a triple bogey (3 over par)
for the number of holes equal to the number of strokes over 18.
In other words if your handicap is 22, you can take 4 triple bogeys
and the rest must be no more than double bogey. If your handicap
is less than 18 then you are allowed a double bogey for each stroke
of your handicap with the remaining being no more than bogey. If
that's not real clear don't worry about it the handicap committee
(A.K.A.) "the pencils" will take care of it for you.
As for clubs... I have to politely disagree with Mr. Topaz and Beak.
A good set of clubs won't make you swing better. A good swing is
something that you cause not the club. If/when you make a good
swing, good clubs will help you strike the ball better but that's
about it. If you spend a lot of money on clubs it won't make you
a good player. The time to think about buying clubs is when you
can make a consistant swing, then go get a set of clubs that will
work for you. In the meantime, when you play just try to put a
good move on it, don't take advice from 18 handicappers and have
fun.
|
| 78.4 | private joke | HAVOC::DESROCHERS | | Wed Mar 04 1987 01:10 | 9 |
|
Gotta agree with .3. I knew a guy once whose best club
in his bag was a bent 4 iron... ;^)
Hi, Beak!!
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| 78.5 | Missing the point | ARMORY::WELLSPEAK | Beak | Wed Mar 04 1987 17:34 | 13 |
| Okay, you got me on that one Tom.
But, Tom and KO, the point I was trying to make is, if you
had a 4 iron with a stiff shaft, a 5 iron with a medium shaft
and a 6 iron with an xtra stiff shaft, you can't possibly learn
to make the same swing with each club and get consistant results.
I agree with you that swing mechanics come from practice and
lessons from a good teacher, but no teacher will reccomend playing
with clubs that don't match and promote the same swing all the
time.
By the way Tom, I'm thinking of bending the shaft on
my new 4 iron!!! Daaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaaa
Beak
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| 78.6 | Testimonial for Golfers Anonomous | USWAV3::FAGERBERG | | Wed Mar 04 1987 20:01 | 19 |
| 78.7 | consistent but inexpensive | GLIVET::HUSTON | | Wed Mar 04 1987 21:28 | 18 |
|
I agree with .3 and .4, at least most of what they say. It is possible
to learn the game using a mixed set of clubs. Note I said possible,
though it would probably not be easy (there are exceptions to the
rule as .6). You do not need a good expensive set of clubs, almost
any set of clubs will do fine, as long as the clubs are consistent.
That is they should be from the same set, so that they have the
same stiffness ect. This will make it easier for you to learn a
consistent swing. Note they do not have to be expensive. I learned
with a set bought in a garage sale. They were Pederson clubs and
were fairly old. I used that set for 5 years, in that time I got
my scores down from around 100 to mid 70's (handicap in the 7-9
region). I never had any complaints with the clubs.
I would recommend getting an inexpensive set of clubs. Just be
sure they are all from the same set.
--Bob
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| 78.8 | more info? | NCVAX1::SHEETS | All the world is staged | Wed Mar 04 1987 21:40 | 13 |
|
Ok, I see there are some varying opinions, so let me add this,
I have a Spalding driver, Wilson 3 wood, Spalding 3,5,7,9 irons,
Magregor(sp?) PW, and Wilson putter.
How can I tell what kind of shaft they have?
How do I determine if they woods/irons are to short
or to long for me?
Once again sapping your knowlege
...mike
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| 78.9 | Look on the shaft | USWAV3::FAGERBERG | | Wed Mar 04 1987 21:56 | 8 |
| re .8
Usually, there is a painted thin color band on the shaft about six
or eight inches above the hosel. If this band is red they are stiff
shafts, black is regular, green is flex. Some vendors use a letter
in front of a label designation ( up by the grip ) S for stiff,
R for regular, F for flex. Also, shafts are graded by weight, and
some manufacturers, such as Ping, use only lightweight, stiff shafts.
|
| 78.10 | $2 Nausau Anyone? | NANUCK::REHOR | I'd rather be golfing | Fri Mar 06 1987 05:12 | 7 |
| Here's a little info and some advice....
After you've used all the suggestions in this notesfile, and start
enjoying the game, and want to play competitively, be careful for
the golfers like the one in .6. These guys who carry 17 handicaps
and are capable of shooting in the 70's are "sandbaggers". They
shoot in the 70's when they are in tournaments or playing for your
money.
|
| 78.11 | Handicapped | ODIXIE::WESTCL | | Fri Mar 06 1987 07:02 | 19 |
| Another two cents!
First of all, heed closely what was said in .10 about 17 handicappers
shooting in the seventies. That's what keeps me out of handicapped
tournaments.
If your set includes the 3,5,7,and 9 irons, then they are most likely
of an inferior quality. Consider taking them to a pro and trading
for a used set of pro quality used clubs. You will find it much
easier to learn with them. Ask the pro which are worth keeping
(maybe the SW and putter).
Concerning determination of handicaps, one responder went to lengths
to say how many strokes you can take on a hole based upon your
handicap. Those guidelines are used only for determining your handicap
and have nothing to do with your actual score.
Good luck, and enjoy your new sport.
|
| 78.12 | What about a 7 shooting -2?? | USWAV3::FAGERBERG | | Fri Mar 06 1987 18:59 | 21 |
| RE: Sandbaggers
It is important to know who you play for money with. Handicaps
are more or less an indication of how a player is currently playing.
I see little difference in this conference between a 7 shooting
2 under as his best score and a 17 openly saying he is capable of
shooting much lower scores. Handicaps reflect how much golf you
play, since joining DEC I play several times a month and my handicap
has gone from 14 to 17, since working at the game makes up for my
lack of natural born talent I think thats reasonable. Its what
happens at the first tee that makes a sandbagger...... When we play
among ourselves we play at 85% off the low handicap, and then adjust
for how well someone is playing. On the other side of the coin,
I can understand the "frustration" when you play well and your net
score doesn't even come close to a high handicapper who also played
well. No matter if its a handicap tournament or a quota system,
it still happens.
However, if you can't take the time to "review" the posted handicap
sheets, then you must accept the gentleman's word. Or, if, you
wouldn't buy a used car from him, don't play golf with him.
|
| 78.13 | So...what's in a shaft? | NESSIE::RUSSD | | Thu Mar 12 1987 22:00 | 6 |
| re .9
Stiff, regular, flex what's all this for, and what should a beginner
be looking for?
Russ
|
| 78.14 | Thoughts | TEMPE1::LAMOURE | Incognito | Tue Mar 17 1987 18:41 | 37 |
| Opinions are like rabbits, they multiply. Here's yet another
one....
Shaft stiffness is related to club head speed, among other things.
If you have to much club head speed, and a flex shaft, result generally
will be a slice. Get a shaft stiffness that reflects the type of
game you want to play; this is a concern after playing for awhile.
My recommendations to beginners are as follows:
- Spend a lot of time on the practice range and putting green
prior to playing a lot of golf; reduces frustration and lack
of interest in the game.
- Set goals for yourself, reasonable goals, gain feeling of
success or accomplishment, confidence..
- Try and play with golfers who are better than you; see how
they manage the course, they may even give you some tips;
worst case it will motivate you..
- Stay calm and be patient, one shot doesn't make a round, so
don't be discouraged, hit the next one good.
- Take in the sights, don't just play a course, enjoy it by
taking the time to look around you; this will also help you
to not press yourself, staying relaxed..
- Make your swings easy, don't try and clear the fence with
every shot; the more relaxed and smooth the swing is the better
timing you have, the further the ball will travel and much
more accurately and consistently...
Enough of the novel, I hope these tips help you to enjoy the
game; whether competiviely or casually..
Incognito....
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| 78.15 | | ARMORY::WELLSPEAK | Lord Beak | Tue Mar 17 1987 21:44 | 24 |
| There was an interesting article in this months Golf Digest.
It brought up a point, that many golfers seem to overlook. It seems
most people, including myself, when asked how to improve your score
will tell you to practice your putting and/or chipping. The article,
based on a survey, says that the most important aspect of the game
is iron play. If you think about it, you'll tend to agree. Because
no matter how good your putting is, if you don't hit greens in
regulation, you're not going to get any birdies, and very few pars.
The article goes on to say that distance doesn't much matter
either. If every shot you hit is 10 to 15 yards longer than your
opponents, and you're not a good iron player, he's still going to
hit more GIR's ( greens in regulation ), than you. And the survey
showed a direct comparison between GIR's and scoring. If you hit
10 GIR's in an 18 hole round, and 3 putted half the greens, you'ld
still shoot below 95, barring to many penalty strokes. If you add
into that, the fact that you may 1 putt a couple of greens, you
can reduce your score even more.
Also, if you are hitting more GIR's, you'll tend to learn to
concentrate more on your putting, as your scoring improves, and
you have more opportunities for birdie's.
The basic message is, forget about distance, and concentrate
on making solid contact, and keeping the ball on line. Also, learn
your distances for each club. Beleive me, it's not easy either.
I've been trying for 4 years.
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| 78.16 | drive for show - putt for dough | VINO::RASPUZZI | Michael Raspuzzi | Wed Mar 18 1987 05:30 | 21 |
| re .15:
That was a good article. I have been keeping stats on my game ever
since high school. If you are going to be serious, the stats help
point out to you what you need work on.
The only problem I had with the article was its attitude towards
chipping and putting. The best part of my game is around the green
(it saves my scores from oblivion sometimes). I've always had the
following thought about shots:
A missed drive or iron shot can be made up for but a missed putt
is gone forever.
You make your birdie/par around greens. Of course, you can't expect
to shoot 75 by only hitting 2 GIR and scrambling for the rest. My
worst-best round was a 74. I hit 4 greens and took about 25 putts.
I've only done it once and I wouldn't want to bet with a game like
that!
Mike
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| 78.17 | Iron play, then putting | ARMORY::WELLSPEAK | Lord Beak | Wed Mar 18 1987 16:25 | 6 |
| Mike, exactly my point. You say you shot 74 and only hit 4
GIR's and took 25 putts. Great!!! But how many times are you only
going to take 25 putts in an 18-hole round? If you could average
10 GIR's a round, you'ld shoot that 74 much more often, if your
putting is that good.
Beak
|