Conference 7.286::golf

	 I guess  (re .0) that I have the opposite problem.  I have no
	 problem at all hitting long irons with accuracy, but -

	 The worst  part  of  _my_  game  is my short iron shots.  I'm
	 having  really  big  trouble  hitting 9-irons and wedges from
	 50-100  m.   I try to hit 'punch' shots - hitting down on the
	 ball  -  but  I  keep  hitting  the  shots too high so I lose
	 distance.   I'm  so  tired of this that I have started to hit
	 half-swing 6- and 7-irons instead.

	 -- Mr Litby

    _My_ problem is similar to re .0, however, my problem is from about
    190 yards.  I didn't have a 2 or 1 iron in the bag and a 5 wood
    was just too much.  I finally broke down last week though and bought
    a MacGregor 'Muirfield' 1 iron.  I am currently (until 29 Dec) on
    a residency in Albany Ga. and went right to the MacGregor plant
    and bought the club...for $18.00!! If any of you are in the South
    Ga. area make sure you stop by the plant...The deals are incredible.
    Anyway, I've hit the 1 iron on the range but haven't played a round
    yet. I'll find out if it helps Christmas eve...one of the bennies
    of living in the South, year round play!
    
    Hit 'em good folks!
    
    Donald Livengood  (A rain player)

    In reading the replies, I can echo some of the frustrations. However,
    I have found that it really comes down to a couple of things. I
    have watched the Jack Nicklaus tape over a couple of times, and
    agree that you should use the same swing for each club.
    
    The other thing is- practice, practice, practice. I have played
    every part of the game superbly at one time or another. Unfortunately,
    not all at the same time, i.e., driving great, lousing up approach
    shots; putting like a demon, but can't get off the tee, etc.,etc.
    
    The one thing that keeps my sanity, is that my wife and I spend
    a week golfing down in Fla. each April. We play 36 holes a day for
    five days. Typically, on the last couple of days we are flirting
    with par and below. Knowing that I can accomplish this somewhat
    allays the poor play during the summer when we get out for a quick
    18 on a Sat. or Sun. afternoon. You can't do it playing just a couple
    of times a week.
    
    I am content enough within myself to know that if I had unlimited
    time, and/or DEC would subsidise me, I could probably play par golf.
    
    However, that option not being available, I try to keep a consistant
    swing pattern, and keep as much concentration as I can out on the
    course. I would avoid "band-aiding" my game by substituting a 7
    wood for the correct irons. Go to a range, take a lesson, but play
    the game with the right clubs. And the right attitude. Don't compensate
    for flaws in your swing- fix them. You will enjoy the game so much
    more!
    
    And most of all- Have Fun!!! This is a great game, enjoy it with
    someone who has the "bug" also!

    My big problem is I stand to close to the ball, after I hit it.
    The other problem is direction.
    Kendall
    

>    My big problem is I stand to close to the ball, after I hit it.

How can you be standing close to the ball if you just hit it?
In theory, the ball should be closer to the hole, shouldn't it? :-{)

    The most inconsistant part of my game is irons.  I can nail a 3
    iron out of the rough and have a 20 ft birdie, then on the next
    hole miss the green by 20 ft with a 9 iron from the middle of the
    fairway.  The problem is a not so subtle swing flaw call steering
    the ball.  My plans for next year are to try to make a good pass
    with the irons.
    
    That brings me to .3 of this note.  I could not agree more!!  If
    you have trouble with a shot don't work around it fix it.  A pro
    once told me that if you go out on a golf course and make 7 swings
    and 6 of them are good swings then you'll play well.  The point
    is make a good swing with the club then work from there.
    
    As for Mr Litby's problem.....  I hit half wedges for years before
    I finally gave up.  That has to be one of the most difficult shots
    to hit.  What I try to do is to lay up so that I can hit a full
    shot.  The other variation of that is if you're between clubs. 
    Then I take the longer club, choke up 2 or 3 inches (5- 7 cm) and
    take a full swing.
    

    	I agree with .3 in that if I could play 5 times a week, I could
    score much lower than I do.  Unfortunately, I too, can play only
    about twice a week and even then only about 8 months a year.
    	My biggest problem is accuracy.  Inconsistentsy in my swing
    seems to be the reason for this.  Sometimes I pull or hook the ball
    and sometimes I push or slice it.  I even manage to hit a few well.
    Distance gives me no problem, but controling it does.
    	This year I'm investing in a set of perimeter weighted irons
    in hope of improving my accuracy a little.  I know practice and
    a better swing would improve my accuracy and problems better, but
    as previously stated, playing time has put a stop to that.
    	As far as wedges go, I think we all have problems hitting half
    shots.  I too, could use another wedge, maybe 70 degrees loft, for
    those 85 - 50 yard shots.
    
                                            Paul W.

    RE: -1
    
    I seriously doubt you'd be able to hit a 70 degree club (if anyone
    makes one) even 50 yards. My average for a 60 degree wedge is probably
    slightly less than 50. Nice club when It really has to get up and
    land softly. If your looking for the 50 to 80 yard range try about
    56 degree loft.
    
    Roger
    

    	In one of the Golf Digest magazines in the last 4 months, I
    read an article on Tom Watsons 3 wedge system.  In it he mentioned
    a wedge with a very high degree loft.  In my response I said 70
    degrees but it may be 60.  I'll look back and let you know tomorrow.
    It would be a nice club though.  And how can you to say how far
    anyone can hit a particular club?  Try comparaing Calvin Peete to
    Davis Love III and let me know how you do it.  There's even a bigger
    difference in amatures than in Pros'.
    
                                                     Paul W.

	 I have  a 60-degree wedge (PowerBilt Renewal).  I can, when my game
	 is  in  shape,  hit  it about 80 yards.  I find it very hard to hit
	 those extremely lofted clubs, though.

	 I've never  heard of anyone using a 70-degree wedge, let alone seen
	 one. Would probably be very hard to hit.

	 -- Mr Litby

I have a wedge called the Jack Nicklaus "Monster" which I believe is
specified at a 64 degree loft.  The pro-shop where I bought it had it with
the wedges, but I think the primary intension of the club is to be a sand wedge.
It has a very bulky head on it, but really isn't all that much heavier than
the Wilson 1200 wedge that came with my set. I find it very useful within
50-60 yards.  I suppose others may try to use it from a greater distance,
but that's my range on it.  I carry the Monster, my 1200 wedge AND my favorite
sand wedge in my bag, and drop out the 2 iron.  I know it's overkill, but
I can't hit the 2 worth squat anyway.

ps. I think the Monster has been discontinued, because I tried to buy
one for my Dad last year and no one had it.

    	The 70 degree wedge I mentioned in a previous reply, is a 
    mistake.  After going back and checking the issue of Golf Digest
    the story came from, I found Watson's 3 wedge system to consist
    of a 50, 55 and 60% wedges.  Sorry, my mistake.
    
                                            Paul W.

    Paul,
    
    The following is an exerpt from Watson's book:
    
    "A pitching wedge is normally 51 to  52 degrees and a sand wedge
    56. If you add a third, 60-degree wedge, you can hit the ball much
    higher, which most golferes have trouble doing on short shots. You
    don't have to open the face or lay it back aor set your hands behind
    the ball; you just swing normally and the ball gets up in the air
    naturally.
    
    I can hit the ball with my sand wedge a maximum of about 100 yards
    in a 60-degree wedge about 80 yards. Your maximum might be more
    like 40 yards, that risky distance we dealt with in the pitching
    chapter. With a pitching wedge or sand wedge, you have to make a
    more difficult partial or half swing from 40 yards. With a 60-degree
    wedge, you can make a full swing or something close to it, which
    is simply easier to execute than the half swing.
    
    A third wedge of 60-degree loft also can come in handy on shorter
    sots when you need to hit the ball up in the air quickly and land
    it softly, lobbing it over a bunker to a tight pin position, for
    example. Or on ptiching the ball a short distance out of the rough,
    when you can't get any spin on the ball and it's difficult to stop
    after it lands."
     
    When I said you'd have a problem hitting even a 60 degree loft more
    than 50 or 60 yards I'm basing it on my own experience. I can drive
    the ball regularly about 260-280 yards, but I don't practice enough
    to swing the the 60 degree club with enough accuracy to get 80 yards.
    What I do is cut back on my swing and get a more consistent shot.
    
    Roger