Conference napalm::musclecars

Anyone have an address where one can obtain an early '70s GM duplicate 
build sheet?  I seem to remember something in a past version of MUSCLECARS.

skip

    Skip,
    	I can get an address for PONTIAC HISTORIC SOC. which will give you
    infomation on an early Pontiac (cost is $25.).  Chevy has not and
    doesn't seem willing in the future to offer this info.  I can't say
    what the status is on Buick, Olds, Caddy, and GMC.
    
    Regards, John
    

    
    
    	Re: -1
    
    	Please do! It would be great to have them ID my Firebird.
    
    	Dave

    I came across a company that sells parts for older Pontiacs, specificly
    GTOs and Firebirds. The company is "Performance Years, inc" in PA.
    You may obtain a catalog by calling (215)699-3722. There is a $3.00
    charge for the catalog and they will put it on a credit card if you
    wish. Or you can mail a request to Performance Years
                                       400 Elm Avenue
                                       North Wales, Pa.   19454
    
    You need to specify either GTO or Firebird.

I picked up a pretty neat book at B. Dalton yesterday.  It is titled Small 
Block Chevtrolet Interchange Manual and is published by Motorbooks International.

It has lots of good information on all aspects of the SBC.  How to id heads, 
blocks, and cranks.  How to choose a cam.  It is a good complement to How to 
Hot Rod SBC.

Mark

    
    Just purchased "How to Restore Your Musclecar" by Greg Donahue and
    Paul Zazarine.  I'd strongly recommend the book, it's full of useful
    information, techniques, and is well illustrated.
    
    Tom

    
    
    Hi Tom,
    
    	At what level of detail is this book? I would love to have
    something for my Shelby like the Corvette Restorers guide Vol 1&2.
    
    The Mustang restoration guides just don't cut it. The things that
    need direction with are original part colors, part stamping codes,
    detailed stuff.
    
    Stuff like how to do body work or interior work isn't really any help.
    
    			- A.J.
    
    ps,  you still have that battery shield?

    
    AJ,
    
    Yes, still have the shield, let me know if you want it.
    
    About the book, it has the general information on component surface
    finish, but does not cover paint codes.  However, I can help
    you out with that.  My Ford manuals have notations for many
    parts specifying color coding for ID purposes.  Anytime I'm
    in town (which isn't often 8^( ) I'd be happy to help out.
    
    Let me know,
    
    Tom

    
    Tom,
    
    	O.K.,  thanks. 
    
    	- A.J.

    
    Three book recommendations;
    
    American Supercar by Richard Huntington (H-P Books)
    -----------------
    This is the definitive book on American high performance autos from the
    1900's through to 1987 or so.  Chronicles the early hot rod era of
    Model T's and flatheads, 40's-50's power packs, early 60's superstocks,
    ponycars, late 60's supercars, and emissions era performance.  Unlike
    most of the junk out there, this book hits the target.  
                                                          
    Holley Carbs by Dave Emanuel (SA-Design Books)
    ------------
    Very complete and concise.  A must for any Holley 4150/4160 carb owner
    Debunks a lot of myths about the Holley carb, and tells you what mods
    to make, and which to avoid.
    
    Power Secrets by Smokey Yunick (H-P Books I think)
    -------------
    This guy is very deserving of his reputation.  The book is
    excellent.  Lots of good explanations of operating dynamics, theory,
    mixed with 40 years of hands on experience as a premier race engine
    builder.  Even though he's a chevy guy, and the book has a small block
    bias, theres a lot of value for any engine builder.
    
    
    Tom
    

Finally, a thorough explaination of Ford's EEC-IV computer.        
                                                                         
Ford Fuel Injection & Electronic Engine Control by Charles O. Probst, SAE -
Robert Bentley Publishers, $29.95.  450 pages of detailed information on
strategies, sensors, actuators, diagnostics,   Emissions and alternate fuels,
etc., etc..  Mazada engine control systems are also covered - MECS I&II.     
                                                                         
This is a must read for those who have an interest in what the EEC is really
trying to do.  Also, at $29.95,  its the cheapest source I know for full 
explaination of the EEC-IV selftest and troubleshooting for ALL 1988-current
Fords.  'Tis true - wiring diagrams, selftest procedures, sensor voltage limits,
error codes; the works.  More complete then the vaunted "H" manual for Ford
emissions related stuff.  And the H manual is typically double the price.
                                         
For those in MA; I ordered the book from Borders Book store in Framingham, and
it took about 1.5 weeks to arrive.  Supposedly the book carries a Ford SVO
number of M-1832-Z1, so its probably available at motorsport distributors.
                                         
Really, this is *the* book for those who want the straight skinny on what a
computer engine control system does.     
                                         
Eric

Another good book:

How to Tune & Modify FORD Fuel Injection
Author: Ben Watson
ISBN: 0-87938-621-5

I paid $26.95 cdn.

The book describes in detail the EEC-III and EEC-IV Engine Management
System. It describes the process by which emissions are produced and how
the EEC system modifies fuel mixture and timing to reduce emissions.   Each
part of the system and  is described including, wiring diagrams, voltages,
testing procedure and diagnostic codes.  It also discusses what the effect of
each component would have on the engine if it malfunctioned.

It also describes emission-legal performance modifications you can do to the 
system to more out of it.

Cheers,
Dave.

We have all heard that Automatics cost power - compared to a manual transmission.
Its generally accepted that this is due to the torque it takes to spin the
transmission front pump ( the thing that builds fluid pressure to 
engage/disengage clutch packs etc.).  I done a certain amount of research into
this and still I'm unsatisfied.  Most magazines and non-engineering books
refer to a static horsepower loss with a particular transmission.  For instance,
a Ford AOD costs 45 HP(!), a Powerglide costs 15 HP, a C-4 costs 20 HP.

The problem here is that engineering books list front pump losses as a function
of RPM.  For instance some unnamed automatic may cost 2 lb.ft. at 1500rpm,
3 lb.ft. at 2000, 5 lb.ft. at 3000,  etc..  The problem is that this makes
the *wealth* of casual data for various transmissions useless without an rpm
at which the HP loss occurs.  
  
Can someone shed light on this.

Eric

>a Ford AOD costs 45 HP(!)

I read (in one of the ford rags) that the AOD is about 30 or so.  Where did you get 
this number from?  Do you use this when you select an Automatic in Shiftmaster?
(which is pretty neat software btw!)

Rich

Assign the "published" loss at 6000 rpm, giving you 39 ft/lbs (45 HP), with
either an arbitrary curve up to there (and beyond), or a straight line, if it's
easier.

If it starts to look a bit weird, change the rpm.

Bruce

Most automatics are barely 75% efficient in that the fluid coupling/torque 
converter transmits only a portion of the total horsepower to the tailshaft
.  (unless you can lock up the torque converter ala ChryCo's Torqueflites.)

What this means is that the output of the torque converter is spinning at 
roughly 7,500 rpm when your engine's turning 10,000 rpm.

The front pump is the only thing inside the trans that's spinning at the 
same speed as the crankshaft.

The transmission input shaft speed reduction is a function of the amount 
of torque multiplication built into the torque converter (governed by the 
shape and placement of the various fins inside the converter).

Simply put.... it slips a bit.

When you ad this inefficiency to the added drag imposed directly on the 
crankshaft by the hydraulic pump, automatics tend to be "not the way to go"
.

To compensate for the loss of rpm, higher gears (lower numerical ratio) are 
used in the differential.

The result is a better (more control) launch and quicker shifts.

If you can match the shift speed of an automatic with a manual and can gain 
some measure of launch control, the manual is the better way to go.

Most folks can't drive a manual trans to save their life so....automatics 
are everywhere.

I should know better then to work from the cranial database.
    
The magazine is Muscle Mustangs and Fast Fords May 1994 issue.  The Breakdown
auto. trans. losses was actually  - AOD 36 hp, C4 28 hp, and C6 42 hp.
    
I'm pretty sure that these numbers are some global fudge factor that take
into account both front pump losses, and losses due to the inherit slip
of the torque converter - as Skip outlined.
    
The associated times and speeds change too dramatically if these numbers 
are for Front Pump losses alone; even if the rating is at 6000 rpm.
    
From experimenting with different values, it looks like 2-5 lb.ft. per
1000 rpm is about right.  This would represent about 14-34 HP loss at 6000
rpm.  Power loss is due to torque converter slippage is directly proportional
to the steady state slippage at engine speeds above the stall speed.  Typical
values are 6-12% slippage, and therefore, 6-12% loss of power at the flywheel.

Eric