Conference napalm::musclecars

    Hint on mounting a Transdapt oil filter relocation kit: put used heater
    hoses over the oil hoses to protect them from hot manifolds or moving
    parts.  Matt

    When warmed up, it drops my oil pressure about 10psi, down to 55psi. 
    I'm using long oil lines routed forward from the oil filter part of the
    engine block, up behind the PS pump, to the fender well.
    Matt

Does anybody know what Polyethylene grease is.  Does it have a more common trade
name - like white lithium or wheel bearing grease or break in lubricant?

Several places in my manual call for the use of polyethylene grease - there is 
also a ford part number.  In particular while replacing bearings in my 
transmission, the manual specified the use of polyethylene grease to seat
15 roller bearings in the outer race of the input shaft that mates with the 
mainshaft.  Two different NAPA stores said they had never heard of this grease
and would use white lithium in this application.

Recently, I'm working on my heads and valvetrain, and the manual again specifies
the use of polyethylene grease for the ends of the pushrods, and the valve stems
were they contact the rocker arm.  A NAPA parts store/machine shop said they
would use lithium grease is that application.

I beleive that breakin lubricant is Moly Disulphide (?) grease.  I think it
has a different function then the application I have - though I don't really
know what it is.  Can a real mechanic please illuminate my dark world.

I'd appreciate any input.

Eric

re .3

In the past, whan doing tranny/transfer case work, I have always used wheel 
bearing grease to hold roller bearings in place during assembly.

When assembling engines, I use breakin Moly based grease for the cam, lifters, 
oil pump, and ends of the push rods.  Bearings, rocker balls, etc. are lubed 
with Kendall "Nitro" 70 weight motor oil.

Hope that helps,
Mark

    This is not a muscle car question, just general car lubricants.
    
    I've been using Texaco Havoline motor oil for several years in my 1987
    Subaru.  I use 10W40.  I bought a new case of Gard oil which is the
    10W40, but it is much thinner than the Havoline.  This is just going by
    sloshing it around in the container and pouring it.  I have no way to
    measure its actual lubricating properties.
    
    So, I looked more closely at the label, and it says "Meets or exceeds
    all characteristics where API service SG/CD is recommended."  The
    Havoline says something similar, but is for SE or SF.  I looked at my
    owner's manual, and it says to use SE or SF.
    
    I bought another case of oil (Sunoco Ultra 10W40) which said it was SG
    API rating.  It is thin too.
    
    So my question is, is SG better than SE or SF?  Does it supersede it
    for general use?  Or do I have to hunt around trying to read the small
    print on oil can labels now?  It seems to me that everyone is selling
    the SG stuff here in New Hampshire.
                                               
    
    Bruce DeRienze

    
    
    	My understanding is that generally speaking, the higher the letter
    following the "S", the better the grade of oil. In my opinion, oil is
    nothing to skimp on, you'll be sorry later. I'm a synthetic oil bigot
    but if I  had to choose a petrolium oil, I'd stay with Kendall or
    Castrol.
    
    	And BTW, I'd NEVER use 10W-40. It has too much VI improver and will
    sludge an engine up. In fact the use of 10W-40 will void the Ford new
    car warranty. Use 10W-30 for your typical passenger car. Unless of
    course, it burns more oil than a furnace.
    
    	Dave

    
        I used Kendall for a year or so, but noticed the warm idle pressure
    would drop from 45 lbs when new to 32 lbs after only 500 miles. It would
    dip even lower on 80-90 degree days after 1k-2k(this was in a 89
    Wrangler btw), sometimes down to the mid 20's. You could hear it in the
    engine too. 8^{
    
        I switched to Castrol GTX, when a freind of mine said it was the
    only oil he would use in his 4cylinder, as any thing else broke down
    way before his change interval. So, in the same jeep the oil pres. was
    60-65 lbs new, and would never drop below 35 lbs on the hottest days,
    even with 5k+ of use on it. This was 10-30W btw.
    
        I know there are more things to consider then just oil pressure
    when choosing a motor oil, but if the oil your using now turns to
    p*ss after a relativley short time then it's a good reason not to
    choose that brand again, IMO ofcourse.
    
       JG

    Re .6, .7 
    
    Thanks Dave, I feel okay using the SG API stuff now.  But I hate to
    think I've sludged up my engine by using 10W40 all these years!
    I guess a couple more cases down the hatch won't make any difference
    now.
    
    I'll have to study my oil pressure guage, JG.  It never does anything
    that noticable.  It is high when I start up, but after that it seems
    to track the engine speed.
    
    Bruce         

>        I used Kendall for a year or so, but noticed the warm idle pressure
>    would drop from 45 lbs when new to 32 lbs after only 500 miles. It would
>    dip even lower on 80-90 degree days after 1k-2k(this was in a 89
>    Wrangler btw), sometimes down to the mid 20's. You could hear it in the
>    engine too. 8^{
    
>        I switched to Castrol GTX, when a freind of mine said it was the
>    only oil he would use in his 4cylinder, as any thing else broke down
>    way before his change interval. So, in the same jeep the oil pres. was
>    60-65 lbs new, and would never drop below 35 lbs on the hottest days,
>    even with 5k+ of use on it. This was 10-30W btw.
    
>        I know there are more things to consider then just oil pressure
>    when choosing a motor oil, but if the oil your using now turns to
>    p*ss after a relativley short time then it's a good reason not to
>    choose that brand again, IMO ofcourse.

Regular Kendall or Kendall GT-1?  Straight weight or multi-gade?

Comparing straight Kendall to Castrol GTX is like comparing skim milk to 
heavy cream.

Kendall GT-1 is the only oil I've ever been able to use because everything 
else thins out too much under load and instead of 45 psi at hot idle I have 
10 psi.  Kendall GT-1 in my hemi rens at 56 psi at cruising speed and 45 
psi at 900 rpm hot idle.

    Hi Everyone,
    	I had a question regarding Mobil 1 Oil.  I was driving my 88 Cougar
    5.0 liter V8 during a really hot day a couple of summers ago.  The temp
    was somewhere aaround 100-105 degrees.  I got downtown about 5 miles
    from my house and all of a sudden my engine started ticking really loud
    like I had a lifter hanging up and the temperature light came on (BTW I
    was not stuck in traffic or anything).  I shut the engine down and let
    it cool for 15 minutes and then when I started it the engine was still
    ticking.  I then wen to my nearest Jiffy Lube (I know but it had to be
    done right away) and had them change the oil.  As soon as it had the
    pennzoil in there the ticking stayed for about 5 seconds after starting
    and then went away.  Has anyone else had this problem with Mobil 1 Oil
    or was it maybe just a flukey thing that happened on this day.  BTW my
    Cougar had about 50000 hard miles on it at that point.  Any comments
    would be appreciated because I hear how everybody says synthetic oil is
    so much better than natural oil?  Sorry but I don't see it please
    enlighten me.
    					Walter Fleury
    

I'd read that synthetic oils are only to be used if you've got a new engine,
and it is used from the second oil change.  (Use natural oil for the break-in.)

Synthetic oils will disolve crud and glaze that in older engines takes up some
of the clearance between the worn mechanical parts.  Your experience sounds
similar to that written about in Hot Rod, etc....
Matt

How much oil did they take out?

Did they make an attempt to measure the amount or did they just drain and 
refill the crankcase?

    in reply to -.1 I checked the oil Immediately thinking it was down but
    it was full right to the top.  So it definately was not low on oil. 
    That is when I figured the oil had broken down and I drove it to a
    Jiffy Lube and had them change it.  I did not find out until later that
    the garage that had changed it the last time had put mobil 1 in it.
    				Walter Fleury