Conference foundr::firearms

    
    When I had Ed's Riflesmithing mount one of those 91/30 scopes
    on a 91, it cost me $45 to mount the scope and $40 to bend
    the bolt handle. Yup, some cussing is called for as the mount
    is intended for the round receiver 91/30 while the 91 (and
    your 39) are hex receivers. Looked great when it was done, tho!
    
    DAP
     

    
    Well, I got the guns back from the smith.  Price was really reasonable
    considering what he had to do to get everything to fit together.
    Looks like excellent work all around.  Now to get them out to the range.  
    Looks like it will be a while before I can do that though.

    fred();

    
    Well, on the continuing saga of fred and his 30-30.  Initial break-in
    and testing with mostly factory ammunition completed.  Initial 
    accuracy was not good.  The rifle seems to like Federals much better
    than anything else as accuracy was much better with that load but still
    not real good.  

    Most of the groups were in-line strings.  Indicating bedding problems.
    So I got a Brownell's bedding kit and bedded the action (what a mess).
    Got a really good fit.  For a few real anxious minutes I didn't think I 
    would get the rifle and stock back apart, but it did finally come apart 
    and fits back together very nice.  
    
    I would have rather floated the barrel, but because there aren't many 
    parts of the action that can be bedded on this thing and on this rifle
    there is only one screw on the action a the recoil lug and a band with
    screw around the barrel about half way down the stock, I bedded the 
    entire barrel to the end of the stock.  I could have ditched the band
    up front, but I'm not sure the single screw could have stood up to the
    pounding.  
    
    I loaded up some handloads with 110 grain bullets.  I tried to pay
    attention to getting things uniform, but just picked a medium range
    of the H335 and didn't do any "working up" of the load yet. Back at 
    the gun range the groups immediately shrank by at least half.  1 1/2
    inch at 100 yd wasn't uncommon.  Not bad since I only have a 4x scope
    on it right now and my eyes aren't what they used to be.  

    I ordered a chronograph from Nachez.  Waiting for that to begin serious
    work on load and accuracy.

    fred();

    
    
    	Sounds great, Fred! I've got an old .30-30 that could probably
    stand a bedding job. How did you like the Brownell's bedding kit?
    
    
    jim

    
    The kit seems to work pretty good.  As I said, it is kind of messy.
    Vinegar (which the instructions indicate) will cut the goo.  However,
    as the instructions also state, make sure you get all the vinegar
    cleaned off because it _will_ take the bluing off.  I managed to
    get some down between the barrel and the stock in one small place
    and it took the bluing right off.  The stock hides the spot, so
    I didn't consider it a really big deal.

    They give you more of the "release agent" than you really need, but
    since you don't have any use for what is left over, next time I'd
    use up the whole bottle.  There's _way_ more goo material than you
    will need to bed the normal barrel-floated rifle.  There was enough
    for me to bed the action and the entire barrel.  If you only bed the
    action, there is probably enough to bed two or three regular actions.
    The kit only costs $10, but the Scotch in me says rather then pull the 
    divider and mix the whole thing as the instructions state, cut a couple 
    corners of the packets off and the re-seal them after squeezing out 
    what you need (about 1/3 to 1/2 of each).  Mix the stuff on a piece 
    of cardboard.

    The biggest problem was getting the gun back apart.  Use plenty of
    release agent. The instructions warn against creating a "mechanical
    lock", that is, make sure the goo doesn't get up around things where
    you can't pry things apart later.  Believe it.  However, it turned 
    out my biggest problem was around the recoil lug.  The instructions
    indicate  to tape the front, sides, and bottom of the lug.  The
    release agent didn't release from the tape.  I didn't know what
    the problem was at the time, so I smacked the sides of the stock
    a few times with a rubber hammer then got down on my knees with
    the gun between my legs and was able to slowly, ever so slowly,
    pry the thing apart.  The tape stayed in the hole and had to be 
    scraped out. In the end, though, I got a fantastic fit between
    barrel-action and stock.

    Beware also not to get the goo up in the screw holes.  Instructions
    recommend taping over any machine work and holes.  Also beware of the
    main screws that hold the receiver and stock together.  I caught it
    and swabbed things out with q-tips and vinegar, but this could present
    some major problems if you don't catch it and the material hardens
    in the screw holes.
    
    fred();

    
    
    	Thanks, Fred! Good info. What kind of tape did you use? Something
    that came with the kit?
    
    	jim

    
    No tape comes with the kit.  I used regular masking tape on the
    recoil lug, but I had been using black electrical tape on everthing
    else until I ran out.  The black electrical tape seems to do better
    when it comes to not sticking.
    
    fred();

    
    
    	That would seem to make sense (the electrical tape sticking less).
    I've got plenty, so I should have enough. :) Did the kit come with
    directions for use, or did you go by past knowledge? 
    
    jim

    
    A little of both.  Although this was my first  bedding job, I'd read 
    several things on rifle bedding.  Thus the recognition that groups that
    tend to form strings usually indicate bedding problems.  Unless the
    strings are all vertical, which indicates a lack of care in the amount
    of powder being loaded in each cartridge.  In which case I'd check the
    loading technique before trying to bed the rifle.

    However, the kit does contain some fairly detailed instructions.  I
    would recommend, as they do, that you sit down and read through the
    instructions completely before you start.  If for nothing else so
    you know what part to go look at again for a given step.  There are
    things that you could miss in the "heat of battle".

    Spend a _lot_ of time in preparation getting everything right.  Don't
    rush it.  Although the goo (and that does describe it pretty good)
    takes several minutes to set up,  the more you mess with it the more it
    gets all over and it's a mess to clean.  Make sure you have a bottle
    of vinegar handy before you start, and, as I said, make sure you 
    get all the vinegar cleaned off.

    Most rifles probably won't be as difficult as this one was.  On most 
    you want to float the barrel (a good indication is a dollar bill
    folded once will fit between the barrel and stock) and bed just the
    action (around the recoil lug and around the front and back screws).
    Because this rifle didn't have much area in the action that could be
    bedded and because of the unusual way it screws together, I decided
    to go with the second best option and bed the entire barrel-stock
    area as well.
    
    fred();

    There are a couple of videos on bedding that might be worthwhile
    watching if you have a chance. I got one from 'Gun Video' aka Lenny
    McGill, on bedding the M1a. It goes into the complete process.
    
    Anyone in ALF is welcome to borrow it.
    
    Randy
    

re: tape -

Brownell's has this tape stuff you put on the forward part of the barrel
for free-floating, etc. Scraps works well for putting on the bottom/sides,
etc of the lug, and other no-touch areas. It is like black plastic tape,
but quite a bit thicker. Electrical tape is really thin.

>>               <<< Note 3612.85 by CSC32::HADDOCK "Pas Fini!" >>>
>>                        -< Rifle bedding--trip report. >-

>>    The kit only costs $10, but the Scotch in me says rather then pull the 

Well there's your problem.  Next time, try it without the Scotch! ;-)

(sorry, I couldn't resist).

Jerry

    
    As an aside, let me add that an Acra-glass kit is also *the*
    thing to have for basic stock repairs. I've tried all kinds
    of wood glues and/or epoxies, with varying results....since
    switching to the Brownells's product, I've found that nothing
    else even comes close! It's a pain to mix, but when you glue
    a stock with that stuff, it stays that way....I had an old
    22 whose stock was in two pieces, broke off clean at the wrist
    and missing a hunk of wood. Not only was I able to affect a
    permanent repair, I was also able to fill the missing chunk
    and have it all come out smooth and strong. 
    
    DAP
    

    
    >Well there's your problem.  Next time, try it without the Scotch! ;-) 
    
    You don't want a guy to have _any_ fun, do you?^).
    fred();

    
    Initial tests using 110 gr. Sierra bullets, H335.  Started at 38 gr,
    worked up to 39.2 in .3 gr. increments.  Why .3 gr?  Don't know, seemed
    about right.  Chrono said 2710 up to 2761.  Less gain than I thought
    I'd get.  Should still be in safety range according to my information.

    Comes the dicey part.  At 39.2 gr the whole rifle would vibrate like I
    was holding a turning fork.  Bong!??? The first shot I thought I was 
    imagining things.  Anybody seen this happen before?

    fred();

    
    
    sounds like you've found a load that creates just the "right"
    vibrations in the barrel to shake the whole weapon. I'd chaulk it up to
    weird, but not dangerous.
    
    
    	jim