Conference csc32::fxrs89::cycles

    Good update Pete.  I'm sure it will feel good knowing the top end is
    in order this spring instead of wondering.  From the sounds of things
    you probably wouldn't have gotten far otherwise.  Ah, the beauty of
    American Iron, more meat to bore, tap, weld, etc.  And you've increased
    the bore to boot :^)
    
    Later,
    Dick  

    Hey does anybody know of a Basket case Panhead anywhere?????
    
    
    
    						Thanks...      Mark~~~~~~

    
    to .110, 
    
    Dick, yep it feels real good, now that I've got the cylinders and 
    heads back on, and it looks like an engine again. Not done yet 
    though. You're right that there is more meat to bore... I thought 
    .040 over was quite a bit, but my manual says you can go up to about 
    .080 over. The newer style piston/wrist-pin with circlip keepers
    will avoid this ever happening again. I also epoxied in the felt gasket 
    in the rocker cover (that was missing before), so hopefully I won't 
    have that tingy metallic valve train sound anymore. I'll finish 
    tightening down the heads tonight. I plan on using the "as tight 
    as I can get them" method. There's NO way to get to some of those 
    nuts with any combination of socket extensions or U-joints and a 
    torque wrench. 
    
    Pete

    
    Well, now that I got my heads torqued down the hard way, I found
    out there is an easy way. (isn't that the way it usually works?)
    Maybe this will help someone else.
    
    I was able to use a combination of universal joint with or without
    extensions to get to all the nuts. I have the basic flex shaft type
    torque wrench, so I had to mark the correct torque on the back of 
    the scale, otherwise I'd be lying on the ground to see it. 65 ft-lbs
    is about as tight as I could get them anyway, so being in some 
    awkward position was no help. Anyway, now I found there is a tool
    called a torque adapter. It's about 2" long and flat. At one end is
    a 9/16" 12-point box wrench. The other end is a square opening in 
    3/8" or 1/2" for the torque wrench. As long as you keep the torque
    wrench 90 degrees to this adapter, the torque readings will be correct. 
    They're around 30 bucks, so you may want to see if you can borrow one. 
    I'd also suggest borrowing or renting one of those torque wrenches 
    where you can dial in the correct torque, then tighten 'til it clicks. 
    
    Pete