Conference napalm::guitar

    I've always found that the easyest way is to get someone else to
    do the strings and set up the intonation at the same time!
    
    Seriously though.... when changing strings I tend to leave about
    2" of string passed the machine head to wrap.  Playing a les paul
    I no longer have to worry about messing around coz of the whammy
    bar but when I did have the Strategy - it was a #$%^&*@ nightmare!
    
    Set up al the string, rough tune, tighten up the lock nuts, fine
    tune, break a string, start again....  AAAAAAARRRRRRRG!
    
    I hate stringing whammy bar guitars!  I always took it into my friendly
    music shop and got it done for the cost of the strings!
    
    Bob

        When I  change  the  strings,  I  stuff the end down into the
        center hole of the tuning peg and then wrap `em up.  It works
        well for long scale  basses, but for the Yamaha (short scale)
        I have to measure the  string  length.    I'll cut the string
        about four inches past the tuning peg and then do the same as
        above as far as stuffing the string and wrapping them.
        
        I know THAT isn't much help. :^)
        
        Matt

    tuning is a breeze on my Telecaster since I put locking tuners
    on it. you simply thread the string through the hole in the post,
    crank the knurled knob on the underside of the tuner, and the 
    pin inside presses tightly agsinst the string. No wrapping the
    string around the post. I leave myself about 1/2 of play, tighter
    the knob, then cut the string off nice and close to the post.
    An entire (6-string) change takes me less than 10 minutes, and
    that includes pulling the old ones off.
    
    My others guitars are a little harder. I generally slide the string
    through the hole in the post, allow 1.5" of slack (on the lighter
    strings, less on the heavier strings), and bend the string back and
    around the tense part of the string, then wind it up and apply some
    pressure downward on the string so that it's winds up nice and even
    and the string doesn't slip across the winding.
    
    Of course I use a hand-crank to make the job go faster. I have a
    couple differant types. I have a black one that works well for 
    mini-in-lines and another that works well for full-size 3-on-a-side
    tuners.
    
    I have a Gibson ES345, with a tune-a-matic bridge. I find it is a
    good idea to change one string at a time on this guitar. If you 
    remove all 6 of the strings, the trapeze tail piece swings around,
    and the threaded disks that determine the bridge height tend to get 
    moved. This makes it necessary to reset the height and intonation 
    
    My banjo needs a little work. The four main tuners aren't too bad,
    but the 5th string tuner doesn't hold. I want to get a better 5th
    string tuner, perhaps from Stewart MacDonald. I am considering
    replacing the head on my banjo, and adding a 5th string capo while
    I'm at it.
    
    Mark
    

Ahh, it's like chaning your socks..  Great for the first few days,,,

prime time to give the bridge, nut slots and fret board a good scrubbing...


On my guitars w/out a locking nut, I take the string and wind it around
the machine head so that it loops back over itself.  A failry well known
method of minimizing slippage...  Kind of a drag when you take em
off however

Hard to explain... works pretty good thou..

    Also see note 227.xx for some previous discussions.
    
    Danny W.

    
    Here's my string changing process on both Floyded and non.
    
    Take all the strings off(I usually detune before cutting the old
    strings).  Inspect the frets and the board, use little 0000 steel wool 
    **LIGHTLY** **IF I HAVE TO**, to get all the gunk off.  All 
    my guitars have rosewood fingerboards.  About once every 3 months or 
    so, I'd apply lemon oil on the fret board, until it won't soak up any 
    more.
    
    I generally start at the bridge, cut off the ball-end for Floyds.
    And don't ask me why, but I prefer stringing in this order.
    D, G, A, B, low E(6th), and high E(1st).
    
    At the nut, I prefer leaving enough lead: about the same length as 
    space between 4 tuning keys.  
    
    		  |<------>|
    		  _  _  _  _  _  _
    		  |  |  |  |  |  |  		
    		---------------------
    -----------|  O  O  O  O  O  O   |
               |                     |    Strangest looking Ibanez headstock
               |                     |         I ever saw!  ;^>
    -----------|   Ibanez            |    It's custom, yeah, dat's the
    		---------------------          ticket!  ;^>
    
    Except on the low E(6th) where I only leave about 3 tuning key space
    length.
    
    I measure and cut first, then bend about 1/2 inch of it, insert thru
    the tuning keys, and wind.  Pull on the strings gently, and tune. 
    Work the whammy, and tune.  Pull some more, whammy some more, tune 
    some more.  I usually spend about 30 minutes tuning and adjusting the 
    Floyd with the locks loose.  I prefer letting the Floyded guitars sit 
    overnight before final tuning and lock.
    
    J.

>    Take all the strings off(I usually detune before cutting the old strings).
          ^^^                   ^^^^^^^    

	Cutting off all six strings while under tension must be a horrible 
	shock to the neck!?!

	I was told long ago to replace one string at a time (always de-tune
	before cutting/removing) to minimize the changes in tension to the
	neck. Am I being overly cautious?

Larry

    Re. how many strings off at once?
    
    I've seen this question answered different ways on different occasions.
    Most electrics have a very rigid neck and light gauge strings; removing
    all the strings at once shouldn't cause a problem.  Still, why take
    a chance?  I change my strings one at a time unless I am planning
    to do some cleaning as in .6's method.  In that case, I compromise
    by following an *old* Guitar Player tip: I remove the three bass
    strings, do the fingerboard cleaning, replace the three bass strings,
    remove the three treble strings, clean the other half of the
    fingerboard, and replace the three treble strings. 
    
    One other Guitar Player tip concerns changing strings on most acoustic
    guitars (three pegs per side, string hole in post parallel with
    string).  To lock the string securely to the post, I bring it through
    the hole (allowing enough slack for the windings; experiment to
    find the right amount!).  The free end of the string comes out of
    the top of the hole, is pulled tightly halfway around the post,
    goes *under* the part of the string that enters the hole, and gets
    folded back *over* that same part.  The only thing you have to remember
    is: when going around the post, go *clockwise* for the basses and
    *counterclockwise* for the trebles. As you "lock" each string, tighten
    it to about a tone below concert.  When all six (or twelve!) strings
    are in place, stretch and tune the strings to concert pitch.
    
    Sorry about the long-winded description; it takes longer to tell
    than to do! ;^)  But this method does seem to secure the strings
    quite well for me.         
    
    						Good luck!
    						--Eric--

    re: .7
    
    I've pretty much always taken all the strings off to replace them and
    have never perceived any problems.  All the guitars I've had seemed to
    tune right back up without any trouble.  
    
    This gives me a chance to examine and clean up the fretboard a little. 
    I don't change strings real often, only about once a month (I hate the
    feel of new strings).
    
    BTW, for those of you that dislike the feel of new strings, here's a
    tip.  I found that there seems to be some sort of residue left on the
    strings from the manufacturing process making them feel slick and kind
    of gummy feeling.  I always wipe them down with rubbing alcohol before
    I play a new set and it seems to get rid of this.  (I have however
    heard people say they *liked* strings that feel this way...)
    
    FWIW, I've been using GHS Boomers for quite awhile now, they seem
    really bright when you first put them on and then after a week or so
    they stabilize and stay real constant in tone over the next few weeks. 
    I generally replace them when they begin breaking from tremelo abuse,
    but I'd probably do it more often if I were gigging much just to try
    and insure I didn't break any when playing live.  
    
    I recently bought a box of D'Adderio XLs because the store was out of
    GHSs.  I haven't used them yet, so can't comment on how they
    sound/last.
    
    Greg

    
    I for one **like** the feel of new strings.  However, I like the sound
    of the old.  Can't win!  ;^(
    
    RE: taking all the strings off at once...
    
    Like I said, I detune them before cutting, this means I loosen them
    all the way.  Sorry if I didn't specify...
    
    J.

>    Like I said, I detune them before cutting, this means I loosen them
>    all the way.  Sorry if I didn't specify...
    
	You said you *usually* de-tune the strings. It was the thought of 
	cutting all 6 strings under tension that made my skin crawl. Sorry
	for the misinterpretation.

	It's beginning to look like it's really not necessary to re-string
	one at a time. Glad I asked.

	Any difference to this idea on older guitars? I've got a '68 Gibson
	SG standard and a '71 Gibson Les Paul. Should I be more careful
	considering their age?

Thanks,

	Larry

<<It's beginning to look like it's really not necessary to re-string
<<one at a time. Glad I asked.


Depends.  On my Ibanez, (with a kahler) it's *much* easier to change
em one at a time.  

Plus, when talking to some luthiers that I've gone to, they
"Suggest" one at a time changing with Kahlers and 'Rose bridges

Different storkes for differnt folks I guess.

For me, singular changes cut down on the amount of piddling I have to do
to get the bridge to balance properly on my Musican...

On guitars with standard bridges,,, I take em all off... 

    
    RE: -1
    
    <On guitars with standard bridge, I take'em all off 
    
    I do dat with my Les Paul as well as my classical and 12 string acc.
    
    Was down at Rice Music one day and Walter was re-stringing an
    accoustic.  I cringed because he was just cutting(snapping) the old 
    strings without loosening them first.  I asked him about that, and he
    just shrugged and said that's how he's been stringing for years.  I 
    don't think I'd take my guitar to be strung there.

    I have a fender strat plus and it has the locking style tuning pegs. 
    I used to have all sorts of trouble judging the length to wrap around 
    the peg head.
      I have always detuned the strings evenly put all six new ones on and
    then gradually brought the tension on all six up to concert pitch. 
    Then I stretch them until they don't loose pitch anymore and there
    you go.
      I have always been interested in keeping my guitar in A1 cond.  So
    could someone please tell me what the rubbing of lemon oil into the 
    fretboard does.  Or maybe some one has some ideas about the cleaning
    fluids we should use.
    

>    I have a fender strat plus and it has the locking style tuning pegs. 
>    I used to have all sorts of trouble judging the length to wrap around 
>    the peg head.

    Since you have the locking tuners, you don't need this anymore, but
    maybe it'll help someone...
    
    I use my hand as a gauge to tell how much string slack to leave.  For
    the low E and A, I thread the string through the bridge and tuner and
    put my hand at a 90 degree angle to the fretboard around the last fret
    and run the string just over the top of my hand with the thumb down.

    For the middle strings, I raise my thumb just a little and do the same
    thing.   For the high strings, I extend my thumb as high as it will go
    and run the string over the top of it.

    It's just an approximation, but it's worked pretty well for me over the
    past few years.

>      I have always been interested in keeping my guitar in A1 cond.  So
>    could someone please tell me what the rubbing of lemon oil into the 
>    fretboard does. 

    The lemon oil conditions the wood in the fretboard and keeps it from
    drying out (which may cause it to crack).  Ebony and rosewood are both
    subject to drying out and need occasional treatment of this sort,
    especially in dry climates.  Some people prefer linseed oil to lemon
    oil.

    Don't use too much oil or do this too often as it can soften the wood
    and ruin it's structural integrity.  I've heard experienced people
    recommend every six months or so, I do mine a little more often since I
    live in a very dry climate, like every 3-4 months with a light coat.

    Greg

	I've heard tell that lemon oil will interact with the oils in
	your skin and eventually cause your fretboard to smell truly
	nasty... anyone else hear a similar tale?

	Charlie B

    Changing strings is a breeze since I bought a winder. I don't know
    how I did without it for so long. I like to have a lot of winding on
    the peg ( to unwind when the string breaks at the bridge, like it
    *always* does ), but winding it is kind of tricky. I like to pull the
    string while I wind it using about the same tension I would use if I
    were doing a bend. This generally stabilizes for me the fastest. Of
    course I yank on the strings a few times to straighten them out. I
    have a floyd rose but I installed my own (patented) backstop so I can
    change all at once. No fancy peg knots here, just a zillion windings
    around the peg. Fixing a broken string takes no time. I just unwind a
    little off the top and clamp the end back in the bridge.
    
    						John.

    
    Hmm...embarassing this, but I'll share it with you ;-)
    
    I was changing the strings on my Telecaster last night and, despite
    taking the slow-and-steady approach when turning the tuning pegs, I
    managed to snap the B string. After a bit of effing and blinding, I
    suddenly recalled that a similar thing had happened last time I changed
    the strings (expensive business, ours!).
    
    Well, I've changed full sets of guitar strings umpteen times in my
    lifetime by now, but I was still prepared to admit that there *might*
    just be something I've been doing wrong. So I consulted this note
    during the lunch-hour and, lo-and-behold, it transpires that you're
    supposed to leave only a couple of inches of slack beyond the hole
    before you start winding the string around the tuning peg! Yes folks,
    believe it or not, I've always pulled the string right through until it
    was pretty taut. In fact, I'm baffled as to how I've broken so few
    strings in the past, given that the tension must have been pretty
    over-the-top!
    
    Oh well, it's never too late to learn. On the other hand, I doubt if there 
    are many people here who would admit to having gone to a more experienced 
    player to ask for tips on how to string a guitar!
    
    Dom

    You'll probably find the guitar will stay in tune better with a few
    more wraps too.  I try to get at least 3 wraps on the low strings and
    as many as I can get (10+) on the high strings.  Makes for stable
    tuning.
    
    Also, remember to make each of the successive wraps go DOWN the tuning
    post rather then up, that creates a slight additional downward pressure
    on the nut.  If you get them too high, they can start popping out of
    the string slots, and/or not staying in tune well.
    
    Greg

   The way I learned was to put three finger-widths of space under the string
   at the twelfth fret, the pull the string through the hole/slot/whatever
   until you get some slight pressure on the fingers under the strings.  I
   then "lock" the string in place by wrapping around the post backwards, and
   basically tying it in place on the post.  Then start winding, making the
   windings go "down" as Greg suggests.  Been working fine for a long time,
   on all my guitars.

   -- Sam
   

    Yeah, tha'ts a good way to gauge it.  I use the top of my hand, held
    sideways at around the neck/body joint for the low strings, and my hand
    with the thumb extended and maybe another inch up for the unwound
    strings.
    
    Greg

re: .19

>    You'll probably find the guitar will stay in tune better with a few
>    more wraps too.  I try to get at least 3 wraps on the low strings and
>    as many as I can get (10+) on the high strings.  Makes for stable
>    tuning.
    
That's good advice, with the possible exception of the "as many as I can
get".  You *don't* want so many wraps that the wraps start going on top of
each other rather than directly against the post.

-Hal

    I bolt my strings into the tail piece, loop it around the door knob 
    and have Cindi slam the door...
    
    :-)

    
    
    
    Doesn't that make your whammy bar stiff???
    
    

    
    
      Ah, the Three Stooges method.  
    
      Look at the Grouse!!!
    
      Nyuk, nyuk, nyuk.