Conference napalm::guitar

    
    	The 4001 is *already* a Stereo Bass.One of the jacks is 
    a mono (front and rear combined) and the other jack is stereo.
    
    	I'm not sure whether its the same stereo plug as say,a pair
    of headphones would use,or some special arrangement.
    
    	Ricks were always one of my favorites,good luck!
    
    				/tomg

    This Bass has had a lot of surgery performed on it, so I'll have
    to try and trace the circuitry.  (I knew there was a draw back to
    being a software type guy).  
    
    I assume when you mean 'Stereo' I must use a Stereo style Phone
    plug and big the signals out at the amp end for separate plugs.
    
    I take possession this Saturday, so I'll check inside and see what's
    what.
    
    I also own a Kramer 8 String which I might want to re-wire.  Has
    anybody done anything like that?
    
    
    

    
    	Re wiring guitars is simple. Of course, some experience in wiring
    electrical things is helpful, as there are certain "ways" of treating
    the wiring style considering that it's high impedance...
    	Your idea to run two cords is excellent. Someday, you may even
    pickup another amp and have a completely Bi-amped system. This is
    the Hot setup, Billy Sheehan of DLR band does that and I know that
    the BIG GK bass amps are actually two in one. I also know the Peavey
    1810 and 1820 speakers can be driven with two amplifiers. That's
    enough evidence for me!
    
    	Joe Jas
    

    Speaking of internal wiring, is there any special kind of wire that
    should be used for passive circuits? That is, shielded, copper,
    solid core, gauge, etc. I know some of the electrics I've taken
    apart, mainly older ones, use very heavy gauge solid core wire with
    a braided shield (tied to ground). Is there a reason for this, or
    will any good quality wire do?
    
    - Ram

    You should always use sheilded wiring in audio circuits. The type
    of wire really isn't that important, since the wiring inside the
    guitar is short. You'll find that some guitars have copper sheilded
    cavities (such as where the pickups & controls are, and some don't.
    I shield as much as possible, however, there are points where you
    have reached 'GOOD ENOUGH'. If you go to Radio Shack & get their
    cheap '20 feet of single conductor' audio cable, this should be
    fine for re-wiring.
    
    When I build guitars, I router out sections of wood in 3/4 in pieces
    of hardwood, place light-weight copper tubing in it & glue the parts
    together. This way I can make sure the sheilding is where it's needed,
    no matter what type of pickups that I use. It looks a little strange
    on the inside (like you might find a sink & toilet inder the next
    cover), but, my guitars don't appear to be very suseptable to noise
    from things like radio towers, or neon lights/flouresent bulbs,
    etc. It's nearly impossible to improve the sheilding once the guitar
    body has been built, short of the easy access cavities.
    
    Some people over emphasize this. Just use sheilded cable on all
    connections over 3 inches long, and you should be ok.
    
    						Jens

    Also youmay want to try single point grounding to avoid ground loops
    and hum..ie: every ground connection inside the guitar has a seperate
    wire that runs to the ground on the jackplate, as suggested by my
    new book on customising guitars...
    
    dave

    
    	Regarding the suggestions made here, one place to find shielded
    wire is within a broken Orient built tape deck or reciever. Rather
    than throwing one of these out, they will usually yield enough wire
    to do a couple of guitars...
    
    	Joe Jas