Conference napalm::guitar

    Neck adjustment has a side affect, the neck can brake. With that
    in mind, yes adjusting the neck will help. About the nut grooves,
    I would get lighter gauge string. This would also help with the
    action.
    
    When adjusting the neck; You should have new string. Do 1/4 turn
    at a time and let the guitar sit for some time (to me that is 24
    hours) before tunning the guitar and/or readjusting.
    
    Give me a call (I am on ELF) if you want more help.
    
    Miguel...
    

    It sounds to me like you've found the problem when you mentioned
    a slight curvature starting around the twelfth fret.  A guitar wants
    to have a slight curvature in the neck, but starting at the fifth
    fret, not the twelfth.  This curvature, called compensation, is
    built in to allow the strings to be close to the neck surface without
    rattling. 
    
    Look at the geometry with the curve starting at fret 12.  In order
    to get decent action at fret 5,  the strings have be so low that
    fretting a note at fret 5 causes a buzz higher up the neck.  If
    the compensation starts at fret 5, the action can be a little higher
    and still be very comfortable to play.  I hope this makes sense. 
    If you draw a side view, with the compensation starting at fret
    5 and use straight lines for the strings, you'll see the difference
    when compared with a side view using 12th fret compensation.
    
    With regard to correcting the situation, that's not so easy.  Truss
    rods are great for inducing a general curvature to the neck, but
    are not so good for placing the start of the curve along the neck.
    I recommend you find a local luthier to see what he can do.  One
    possibility is to bias the way the neck sits in the body (I'm assuming
    you've got a bolt-on neck) by using shim(s) and then use the truss
    rod to get the right compensation.  As hard to do as it is to explain.
    
    Also, have you checked the curvature in the perpendicular direction?
    If there's any twisting, or warpage, of the neck as you traverse
    the fingerboard, that condition will cause buzzing.
    
    Hope this info helps...keep us informed about progress of getting
    the neck dialed in.
    
    Regards,
    Johnny Jupiter
    
    
    

Looking at my neck again (I mean my Strat's neck), I think my original
conclusion was incorrect.  Cursory glances at a guitar neck can be
extremely deceiving, I guess.  After a more careful inspection, I'd say
the neck is almost perfectly straight.  Holding the 6th string down
at the first and last frets makes it clear that there is a *very* 
slight curvature; but it is so slight I'd be hard pressed to say
where it is located along the neck.  Sounds like introducing a tad
more compensation might do the trick.  Thanks for the advice.
(Now, if I can find time to use it...).

Anybody have any more advice about filing/sawing down the string slots
in the nut?  The strings I use on this guitar start with a .009 on the
1st string; that's the end of the line, as far as I'm concerned...

Paul

    Hi Paul,
        It is VERY important that you don't go wild with that file in your
    hand !!! It sounds like you could use some work on the nut. The
    rule of thumb would be something like 1/16" from the strings to
    the 1st fret. If the neck hasn't been messed with and is fairly
    straight with only a slight bow, (and I do mean slight !), then
    you might only need some slight fret leveling. PLEASE !!!! If you
    don't feel good about attempting this,"land of the unknown", then bring
    the guitar to someone who KNOWS how to do it. Concider the thought
    that if you mess up (just a thought remember :^) ), then you'll
    end up taking the guitar to someone anyway, and now it will cost
    you more money than you planned on from the beginning. You might
    just want to bring it in to a good repairman and tell him what you
    want. Spend the few bucks and get it done right. You'll be better
    off in the long run. I have an old strat that gets the best of care
    when it needs it. I might add that it never complains and it still
    feel great after all these years.
         Have someone look at it Paul. You might be sorry if you don't.
    Besides... it might be something minor that won't cost hardly
    anything, but if you don't...         who knows.
    
    Fred
    
    please-don't-get-offended-i-really-do-mean-well.       really !
                                                                   

    More questions on Truss rod adjusting:
    
    First, the situation. I started taking some guitar lessons again,
    after a break of over ten years. The first thing that the teacher
    told me about my guitar (a '72 Strat, maple neck - my hands don't
    sweat, so no flames please...) was that it needed some work done.
    
    He said 
    	a)	The neck has an S-curve near the nut. While it is flat
    		where it connects to the body, it is curving up the neck.
    		Consequently the high E string is almost off the
    		fingerboard. "Aha", says I, "no wonder I sometimes have
    		trouble with bends!"
    
    	b)	The frets are really worn. I bought the guitar new,
    		and this seems true. I can see the wear! New (taller)
    		frets might mean less buzzing on the fingerboard.
    
    	c)	Also, I have one of the infamous 3-bolt necks, and I've
    		never tightened it.
    
    I figured that I couldn't do my own fret job, but maybe I could
    at least tighten the neck to the body and adjust the truss rod.
    Is the information in the previous notes correct and accurate? For
    instance, could I simply give the rod a quarter turn (which
    direction?), leave it for a day and then check the curve again?
    Or is there a more accurate, no doubt more complex technique. Please
    refer me to other notes as necessary. I have found 45.49 (dbI 's
    comments on truss rod adjustment), and 86.6 (dbII 's comments on
    3-bolt Strat necks).
    
    Thanks!
    
    	- Rick

    re: 3 bolt necks 
    
    If it isn't a problem for you ie: if the neck isn't moving up and
    down and causing tuning problems don't mess with it. I had real
    problems because when I play standing I get a bit agressive with
    the neck and strings..mine was drifting in and out of tune with
    every power chord etc. so I just worked on it until I came up with
    my solution...it works good, I've set up a dozen or so guitars
    including my own and never had a complaint...only problem is most
    shops will undo the work and try their own version of the fix, things
    like using a piece of window screen to make the finish bite into
    the screen  on both the body and the neck heel to stop the movement
    (doesn't work very well) etc...
    
    good luck
    
    dbII

    Yes, the preceding information is correct. The adjustment proceedure
    is as follows...
    
    1. Hold the string down at the first and last frets. (the guitar
    should be tuned as normal) Observe the distance between the string
    and the fret bar at the 5th fret. You should just be able to see
    daylight at this point.
    
    2. If the neck needs to be adjusted. Apply preasure to the neck
    as to relieve the presure on the tork rod. then loosen (for more
    curve) or tighten (for less curve) as needed in small increments.
    **** Remember to relieve the presure on the tork rod before you
    turn the nut. The rod may break if you do not.
                                                                     
    However, The `S' curve you mention may be because the wood in the
    neck hs dried out and as a result has warped. If this is the case
    you can correct it with linseed oil. Remove te strings and oil the
    neck allowing several hours for the oil to soak into the fingerboard.
    Wipe the neck down and repeat. Clean the neck thouroughly with clean
    dry cloths until all excess iol is removed. Allow to dry for an
    additional 24 hours and restring.
    
    This process should be considered every couple of years as guitars
    are made of wood and as such will dry out losing their natural oils.
    
    Hope this helps...
    
    Jim
    
    

    Dave and Jim,
    
    
    	Thanks for all the advice. 
    
    Re: the linseed oil. I have a maple neck which has a (clear) finish of
    some sort. I doubt the linseed oil would penetrate it. I could see
    how this would work on a rosewood neck, but not on mine.

       	- Rick
    

    
    Is linseed oil the only kind of oil for this treatment or can you
    also use lemon oil??

    You need a penetrating natural wood oil. The object is to restore
    the natural oils that have dried out. Lemon oil might work as a
    temporary solution until a good wood oil can be used. Remember do
    NOT use BOILED linseed oil. That is more like a varnish and would
    prove disasterous.
    
    Jim
    

     
    I know this note has been dead for a while but I've got a question
    about action adjustment and I can't think of a more appropriate
    place to put it.
     
    How do I go about raising the action slightly on my guitar?  If
    I've asked a question which has been answered time and time again
    then I apologise as It probably went right over my head :-)
     
    Thanx
    -Tony  

    Depends on what kind of bridge you have.  Presumeably we're talking
    about an electric?
    
    Most bridges (no, not all) have an adjustment that raises the action.
    
    After you raise the action, you will almost certainly need to
    reintonate and you may need to adjust the truss rod.
    
    To see if you need to reintonate, see if the 12th fret plays the
    same note as the harmonic at the 12th fret.
    
    To see if you need to adjust the truss rod, press each E string (in
    turn) at the first and last frets.  If there is an ever so slight
    gap at the 9th fret (or thereabouts) between the string and the 9th
    fret, you're fine.  If there is no gap, or the gap beyond "just barely
    not touching the fret", you need to adjust the truss rod.
    
    	db

    
    Cheers Dave, I'll try it tonight.
    
    BTW - Its is an electric.
         
    -Tony

    
    
    GOOD NEWS              
                           
    I raised the action and re-tuned and the buzzing has stopped.
                                     
                                     
    BAD NEWS                         
                                     
    I hate it!! The action is as low as it can go without buzzing the
    strings but can't get used to how high it is.  
                                     
    I was thinking of giving it a few days to try and get used to and 
    if I still don't like it then get my local guitar store to file
    the frets for me, so I can lower the action to where it used to
    be.  Good or bad idea??          
                                     
	Thanx in advance,
    	-Tony             

    See if the shop will shim the neck.  This is usually a miracle fix
    for bolt-on necks.
    
    Ashley

    re.15
        
    Yeah I took it round there at lunch time they said they'd re-lower
    the action, find the source of the problem, fix the problem (free 
    of charge) and even re-tune!!!!
         
    Can't say fairer then that!!
         
    -Tony

    	I didn't know whether or not to bring this up here, but how do all
    of you bassists prefer your action?
    
    	When I played my friends BC Rich, he had it cranked up like a
    suspension bridge (about 1/4" at the 18th or so).  I played with the
    bridge until it was a little under an eighth.  I'm not that good (still
    very beginner) but I sure can play a lot better when the strings are
    just barely hovering over the board.
    
    	What about everyone else?
    
    --mikie--