Conference vmszoo::rc

    	Tom, is that the military version of the Beech 18???  Should
    make a nice RC scale, dont think I've ever seen or heard of one.
    
     

    No, Pretty sure that it's the civilian designation. I'll verify
    tonight. Yes she is a pretty bird. 
    Obviousley a twin, twin rudders,low wing,tail dragger. Was used
    in the military for a number of things from passanger carrier to
    light cargo to a bomber for the netherlands. This one that Jeff
    and I will be building isn't a masters quality ship. Far from it.
    Let alone if we were capable of building at that level. rather it's
    a stand off scale ship that should (hopefully) prove to be a good
    flyer and first twin. I'm hoping it will fall into the ranks of
    a twin similar to the twin short kits offered by wing manufacturing.
    The same style of ship.
    
    
    Tom

    Hey Tom,
    another project? What happen to the P47, Flybaby(?), and that stick
    40 you were modifying?
    
    Dan Eaton

    Well Dan, you should talk.........
    
    The P47 is still on a back burner (way back) I want to make sure
    that I have assembled everything necessary to build a first class
    ship. Perhaps late spring will see it's beginning with a completion
    for the following summer.
    The FlyBaby is also on a back burner. I'd originally ment for this
    to be the all inclusive scale subject (I have a soft spot for this
    ship too) but facts are that I'd be giving points away. 
    The stick is still going strong. That for a catagory of our building
    contest held in April. The fuse is app. 2/3 done. Hopefully I should
    get to the wing at Christmas shut down. I have mounted an engine
    in it.
    The twin just came around at the right time.  Update on the plans
    to follow...
    
    
    Tom

    Well time for the update. To start things off I checked my SIG
    cataloge and have found that they don't sell foam in a large enough
    length for what I need. 
    
    Last night was not as long as the night before. I did however get
    the wing plan drawn fronm a top view. This includes the aileron
    detail, wing tip and the nacelle. The next task which will hopefully
    be done tonight is ti crop the root and tip cutting templates for
    the airfoil and then crop the wings cross section at the two nacelle
    supports. after this I'll be able to complete the nacelle detail
    and the landing gear design. Again this is a standoff ship so it
    won't have retracts(bite you lip Al:-)).
    
    Jeff, If all goes well tonight and tomorrow I might have a set of
    plans ready to be copied on firday. I should be able to get them
    out sat.. Wing cores to follow.
    
    
    Tom

    This plane is more commonly refered to as a "Twin Beech" at least
    by my old Skydiving Roomate, it is used quite a bit as a Jump plane.
    I though the designator was C-17 but that dont sound right.

    This past sat. my girl and I were watching TV, some sitcom about
    this preacher. Anyways they took a chartered flight. Wouldn't you
    know it was the Beech Twin that was shown flying.
    
    If there is any interest in this, the plans are doen for now. That
    is to say that they are done enough so that Jeff and I can start
    cutting and glueing parts. I've worked out a materials list and
    hope to cut the wings the week between Christmas and New Years.
    Also I will be able to start the construction of the Nacelles,fuse
    and tail.
    Over the weekend I did some checking because I thought that the
    vertical stab/rudder looked small. It turns out that the ship should
    have 594 sq. inches of wing area. The vertical stab/rudder is 70
    sq. inches and the horizontal stab is 126 sq inches. That gives
    me about 11% vertical and 25% horizontal stab area in relation to
    the wing. Should be plenty. To date Jeff hasn't received his copy
    of the plan. I can't wait till he does. Wonder what I missed.
    
    
    Tom

    Does anybody have a decent 3 view of a C-45...  We are building
    these for stand off scale, but it would be nice to have a 3-view.
    
    If so, please send a copy to both Tom and I ..
    
    thanks,
    jeff
    

    I spent last night on the living room floor looking over the C45
    drawings in great detail. I know I'm the author of the plans but
    what I tried to do was look at them with the eyes of a builder rather
    than with the eyes of a designed. I came up with 16 different areas
    that will need to be cleaned up.
    
    If the ships do fly well,(and I'm sure thay will) my hope is to
    submit the plan,photo's to one of the RC rags as a possible 
    construction article. To me the design has a lot of good things
    going for it as a first twin. It has dual rudders that are in the
    airstream of each engine. It has solid landing gear that won't
    get ripped off. It has a good amount of wing area in 594 sq's.
    It had good sized tail feathers, 25% of wing area for the horizontal
    and 10% for the vertical. The engine size .25-,28 is ecconomical
    and fuel efficient. Most of all it represents simple standard
    construction techniques that all modelers use when they build a
    single engined plane. I really hope that Jeff shows off the drawings
    to the noters in his area. Fact is if anyone out there wants a copy
    of the refined plans I'd be more that willing to send them to you
    and grateful for any comments or suggestions.
    
    Is anyone else interested in building a twin?
    
    
    
    Tom 

    
    	Tom, I would be interested in getting a copy of your plans.
     At this point in time, I am just starting out with a trainer, but
    the idea of a twin does interest me.  (It may be some time before
    I would begin it as a project though....so if you are interested
    in seeing it go together quickly, I'm not your man!)
    	I would certainly pass it around to the RC'rs here in Burlington,
    and maybe someone else would be able to give instant feedback and
    responses.
    
    	My mailstop is BTO....thanks!
    
    	Brian
    

Tom,

        I'd love  to get a copy.  I am in the process of building
        a scale twin  shrike, and really dont want to fly this as
        my first twin.  I bought it  knowing that I may never fly
        it after putting in all that time and  money building it,
        and getting it just right. Too much time and effort spent
        to watch it go down due to lack experience with twins.
        
        What I want to do is to build another twin, smaller, less
        expensive,  and  put  in  just  enough  time to  make  it
        flyable and look half way decent.  Then I'll  use it as a
        'twin  trainer'  to  get some time under my belt.   Then,
        maybe, someday, the shrike...
        

        Thanks much...
        
                Steve
                LKG1-3/B14
        
        P.S. If you  need  a  contribution  of copying the plans,
             mail, etc, let me know...

    RE: .9
    
    I made 2 aborted attempts at building a P-38 for twin Webra .20s and
    have always wanted to try a twin. Do you think it would be too heavy
    for .20s? You keep mentioning a foam wing, is there a reason why you
    would chose foam over regular built up construction? I'll be interested
    in seeing how you make out and maybe trying it next fall/winter
    building season.

    
    I choose foam because the wings shape lends itself to the use of
    a foam core. The wing is a simple dual taper. I have already considered
    developing a built up rib wing. I hate the thought of croping all
    of those ribs so I may take the easy way out and cut an additional
    wing and then slice up the core at designated spacing to give me
    the ribs crossections. 
    The design is for a 61.5 inch wing span and 594 sq. inches of wing
    area. If your particular about the balsa uses I can see that it
    could be built around 6-7 lbs and two .20's would be enough to fly
    it. I don't think it would be any spectacular performer but it would
    fly. Fire me off your mail stop  and I'll get you a copy of the
    plans. We'll shut down between Christmas and New Years so I should
    get a chance to refine the plans.
    
    
    Tom

    Re: .13
    
    Late in the week after New Years... Are the cores cut? Engines mounted?
    Plans copyrighted? Two weeks and no update. Have you flown it yet Tom?
    
    Inquiring mind want to know...
    
    ;B')

    Well, the week between christmas and new years was a disappointment.
    I started coming down with something christmas evening and it lasted
    all week. Got nothing done at all.   This week I have run my two
    Magnum 28's and ordered two fiberglass 4"cowls. Should cut the
    cores with a couple of weeks. I do also have my wood from Balsa
    USA.
    
    
    
    Tom

    Alright guys you got me going, I've ordered plans from RCM for a
    Beech with twin O.S. 26 four strokes.
    
    Whats the latest with your project?
    
    Will

    Lattest is I have all of the wood but none of the time. Won't
    be cutting wing for a couple of months. I'm sending tracings of
    the airfol templates to Jeff in the event he want to persue
    cutting his own cores rather than wait.
    
    Tom

    Well a lot has happened since thst last note some 8 months ago.
    Jeff's urgeing in another note seems to have revived this project.
    Understand that I've completed a sport ship this past week and 
    am hedging starting a major project because I want to build a
    competitive scale ship this winter so I've been trying to decide
    what to do next. I don't want to start the scale project because
    I'm not ready (documentation). I was going to start a scat cat to
    get another sport ship ready for the winter but I think I can get
    through with what I have. I was going to take out a half built 72"
    bird but that looks like months of work so what to use as a filler
    for a month or so...
    
    
    What I figure is I can sheet the scat cat and the C45 wings together
    in one night. I;ve sent a message to Jeff telling him if he can
    come up with foam I'll cut his a set of cores of if he can come
    up with foam enough for one core I'll go and design a built up wing.
    Tonight I have a few things to do but maybe just maybe I'll start
    tracing parts or go over my buddies and cut a set of cores.
    
    
    Does anyone in DEC WORLD have access to RA90 packaging? After it's
    been used? This packaging uses foam sized 15.5 x 3 x 35. Ideal for
    cores. If you do have access contact me off line.
    
    
    
    Tom

    Help needed.
    
    
    One of the issues with this design was that it utilized a foam core
    wing. A few noters have inquired if I would design a built up wing.
    One way to do this is to crop all of the ribs. NOT ME!! A second
    choise and one I wouldn't mine doing would be to cut a foam core
    and then slice it at the rib locations to generate templates for
    each rib. I could do this but don't wish to sacrifice a good piece
    of foam. So here's the help I need.
    
    I have a shorted piece of foam some 21" liong that I could cut a
    "stubby" wing from. All things kept the same I kow that contained
    within this stubby wing would be the rib templates I'd need to design
    the built up wing. However it's where to cut the wing I'm not sure
    of. Is it correct to just take a ratio;
    
    		Full span		Rib spacing
            ----------------    X     --------------
    		Stubby span		   Y
    
    
    Will this work?
    
    
    
    Tom 
    

    Yes Tom, that looks correct to me.

                                - Dan M.

    Tom,
    	I also say that'll work fine.  Your dimensions spanwise are more
    critical by the same ratio so measure carefully.
    
    Charlie
    

    When I got home last night I had some time to myself so I took out
    the calculator and did some figuring. I have the rib spacing all
    layed out on my stubby wing.
    
    Latter in the night I was able to get back into the hobby room and
    started cutting parts. 
    The fuse formers are all cut from 1/4" balsa plywood. This is 1/8"
    balsa sheet stock laminated up crossgrain. I was able to get all
    of thhe inside formers (5) cut and sanded. I also got the four
    nacelle sides and tank floors cut. The nacell sides are an internal
    box structure to the nacelles. They are made from 1/4" balsa sheet.
    I went on to install some 1/4" sq. stock for tank floor support
    and installed the tank floors between the nacelle sides.
    Today after work I'll be taking a trip to the hobby shop abd picking
    up two 6 oz. sullivan slant tanks and two engine mounts. I hope
    to get the firewalls cut and installed with engine mounts onto the
    nacelle sides and finish cutting the fuse sides and doublers.
    
    
    Tom

    One point that Jeff had some questions on was the tail wheel assembly.
    Think of it... you have two rudders out on the ends of the horizontal
    stab. Great for rudder athority as they fall into the propwash but
    how do you drive the tailwheel?  I thought that I could run a second
    pushrod or wire back to run this wheel exclusive from the one for
    the rudders but that adds weight. SO........
    
    
    	Here's what I'm proposing.
    
    To start the horizontal stab is a built up structure sheeted with
    1/16 balsa. In the center of this stab there will be a 90 degree
    bellcrank that is used to move the rudders. Obviously this would
    be mounted on a plywood plate and what I've come up with is to 
    substitute a brass tube that would run from the top of the bellcrank
    down through the fuse exiting the bottom of the fuse through another
    plywood plate.. This tube would have a washer soldered to the top
    to retain the bellcrank and a washer soldered to the bottom (outside)
    to secure it there. this tube would serve as a baring surface for
    the wire tailwheel and the attachment post for the bellcrank. The
    tailwheel wire will pass through the tube from the bottom up to
    the top and then be bent to slip into a hole in the bellcrank. A
    washer is soldered to the wire at the bottom to support it on the
    bottom of the fuse. In this way I think I'll get a free supporting
    tailwheel wire that is actuated by the same input that will move
    the rudders.
    
    Everybody confused??
    
    
    Tom

    Tom,
    
    I think I see what you are doing....
    
    My biggest concern is the throw on the tail wheel.  With your system,
    a 20degree turn in the belcrank means a 20degree turn in the tail wheel
    which seems like an awful lot.
    
    The original has a free-wheeling tail wheel, which would be a bear to
    use in the model.  I think I am going to lock the tail wheel in place,
    which would make it act more like a skid.  If I get really brave, I
    might try to make a system so that it can be locked for takeoffs and
    landings but freewheeling while taxiing.
    
    cheers,
    jeff
    

Sounds like a source of worry and repair from the constant beating it'll take 
as a taildragger. Maybe a hatch or removable stab top for access ;^)

Actually if you did support it right you could slip a piece of large diameter 
surgical tubing over the bellcrank and tail wheel arm WITHOUT it in a bellcrank
hole and it would get some shock relief for the rudder servo on crosswind
landings (torquing the tailwheel sideways) Sorta snug but forgiving?

    OK, Last nights action...
    
    Well to start things off I got out of here late and it was my night
    to cook dinner so... the only saving grace being my girl is in
    managementfor NYNEX and she's working a 7:00- 7:00 shift.
    
    When I got home I was able to get the two nacelle firewalls and
    the fuse wingsaddle doublers cut. After dinner and clean-up I was
    able to put in some quality time. I got the engine mounts installed
    onto the firewalls and have realized that with the Thunder Tiger
    .25 I'm now going to use I've had to make a relief cut in the firewalls
    for the mufflers. No problem though because I noticed this before
    I glued the firewalls to the nacelles. Have to go to a meeting 
    
    
    		To be Continued
    
    
    Tom

     To continue...
    
    
    I got the firewalls glued to the narcelles. Then I cut out the fuse
    sides and the vertical stabs/rudders. With all of this done I started
    glueing parts together. I installed the horizontal stab doublers
    and the corner tri stock. Glued the fuse wing saddle doublers **
     and F3-F6. I then measured and joined the fuse at the rear. 
    
    I still need to cut out the nose former F1 and then I can start
    to finish the nose of the fuse. One step to note is that the fuse
    wing saddle doublers is not completely glued. From the nose to F3
    I have omitted glue. My thought is to bend the doubler to F1 and
    glue it followed by the fuse side. At that point I'll glue the doubler
    to the fuse side. It's my hope that this will make this glueing
    and forming operation a littel bit easier.
    
    
    
    Tom

STANDOFF SCALE BEECH C45 TWIN
-----------------------------

	The construction of the Beech Twin will be one of enjoyment
and pleasure if a few minor building deviations are followed. 
	To start I'd like to make a point about the design of the
Twin. It is a stand off scale version of the Beech Twin C45,AT7-AT11.
It is not exact scale nor was it even ment to be. If your intent is to
build an exact scale beech Twin this is not the bird for you. If however 
you have always wanted to built a twin. A first twin that won't jump up 
and bite you and  had wished it would be a stand off scale twin to boot
then this is the bird for you. It is designed around the .25-.28 sized two
cycle glow power plants. Good luck and good flying.


Wing:

	Construction of the wing follows the normal foam wing building
practices. To start you should lay out the location of the engine nacelles.
Next install the throttle cables. This should be done in such a way that the 
servo end of the cable exits the top surface at the center cord of the wing.
The engine end exits on the bottom of the wing at the nacelle. You should 
remove the foam from where the nacelle will fit. 
	The cores should then be sanded and sheeted with 1/16 balsa. You can 
use what even method of glueing the sheet to the cores that you are 
comfortable with. Some prefer epoxy,some contact cement. Whatever is your 
preference what you should end up with is a sheeted set of wing cores with 
the leading and trailing edges attached,shaped and sanded. Remove the 1/16" 
sheeting and the leading edge stock from the Nacelle locations. The wing 
tip is built up balsa wood which is carved into shape.  Install of torque 
rods and the ailerons. Joint the wings together using 30 minute exopy. 
Note that 2.5" of dihedral under each wing tip is recommended. Next add 
the plywood wing bolt support and the fiberglass arrow shaft hard points 
to the wing. One bolt secures the wing in the front and two bolts in the 
rear. Fiberglass the center section of the wing with 6 oz. glass cloth 
and epoxy or resin. Put the wing aside until later.

Fuse:
	The construction of the fuse will best be accomplished if first you
cut out all of the formers,the fuse sides and the fuse doublers. Glue the 
horizontal stabs doubler in place. Make sure to make a right and a left side 
of the fuse. Now very carefully glue the fuse wing doubler in place from
F3 rearward to F6.  Keep the glue from the area of the doubler ahead of F3.
This is very important and will help in the bending of the fuse nose section
latter in the process. Next glue the 1/4" tri stock to the rear bottom of the
fuse sides. Install F3-F6. Note that these formers are cut from balsa plywood.
This material is made by crosslaminating 1/8" balsa sheet stock. With formers
F3-F6 in place install the balsa corners made from 1/4"sheet stock on the top
edges of the fuse from F3-F6. Next sand the 1/4" stock at an angle to 
facilitate the installation of the 1/8" fuse top sheeting from F3-F6. Now is
the time to install F1. Dampen the inside surface of the fuse doublers and bend
them so that they contact F1. If one side bends less that the other dampen
the stiffer doubler until they both bend equally. Clamp the doublers to F1
and allow this to completely dry before trying to glue. Glue F1 to the doubler
and allow it to dry. After  all has dried spread some glue on the doublers
outside surface and press the fuse side to the doubler. This will form the
completed fuse nose sides. Install F2 and sheet the top front nose section
with 1/4 " sheet stock. Install the cabin top block and the nose section. 
Draw the fuse sides together and install the rear block. Note the the fuse
is as wide in the rear as the block is tall. Add the top rear corner 1/4" sheet
stock pieces and the  1/8"top sheet. Sand the nose block,rear block and the
fuse corners to shape and then hollow out the nose. Install the hardwood
wing mounts and the fuse is done for now. The push rod for the elevator should
exit the fuse threw the rear block. You may have to hollow out the block to
allow clearance for the elevator's control horn. Install the wing to the fuse
making sure that it is straight. Drill and secure the wing to the fuse. Build
the horizontal stab per plan and install the vertical stabs. Now it's time
to work on the rudder linkages and tailwheel assembly. 
	Begin by soldering a washer to the top of the brass baring tube. 
This tube is used to secure the 90 degree rudder bellcrank and also allow
the tailwheel wire to pass from the bellcrank to the bottom of the fuse.
With the wing installed, align the horizontal stab and glue it in place.
Slide the 90 degree bellcrank onto the brass tube and follow with another 
washer. This washer stays free floating. Drop this assembly down through the
drilled hole in the ply plate of the stab. The tube should extend down below
the fuse sides by app. 1/4". While holding this assemble slide the bottom
plywood plate over the tube and up until it's in place on the bottom of the
fuse. Align and glue this plate to the bottom of the fuse. Now solder a washer 
to the bottom of the tube. This needs to be as tight a fit as is possible.
This secures the bellcrank in place. You can now install the rudders and
the rudder control linkages within the horizontal stab. Make sure that you
also install the rudder pushrod from the servo location to the 90 degree
bellcrank. The next operation is the tailwheel wire. This is made from 
3/32 nds wire. See the plan and bend the top of the wire only. Drop the 
wire down from the top through the brass tube and engage the little tounge
with the 90 degree bellcrank. Put a drop of glue on the wire to bellcrank
attachment and allow to dry. Turn the fuse over and side a piece of paper
over the wire. Now slide a washer onto the wire and solder. Make sure there
is no play up and down on the tailwheel wire. If any play exists resolder.
Pull out the paper. This paper will serve in keeping the brass tube/wire 
from being soldered. Bend the wire rearward and install the tailwheel.
Sheet the top of the horizontal stab. Install the soft balsa block on the
top of the horizontal stab. Sand the block to shape. Now crossgrain sheet
the bottom of the fuse with 1/8"balsa sheet stock.

Nacelles:
	Assembly and installation of the nacelles is a simple task. Don't let
it scare you. Each nacelle is made up of some simple parts. To start glue
the 1/8" balsa tank floor crossgrained between the two 1/4" balsa nacelle 
supports. Install the 1/8" ply landing gear supports to sides of the nacelle
supports under the tank floor. Add 1/4" tri stock between the top surface of
the tank floor and the nacelle supports. Install the 1/4" ply firewall. Make
sure that it is centered. Add the 3/8" tri stock between the nacelle supports
and the firewall. Now drill the firewall for the engine mount prefered.
Install the landing gear rear grooved block and the nacelle is ready for 
installation. Make both nacelles and have them both ready for installation. 
	Block up the fuse with the wing installed and set the wing at +1
degree of incedence measured at close to the fuse as possible. this is 
important because if the fing cor is cut correctly some wash out should be
automaticly cut into the cores. measureing at the tip would give an incorrect
set up for the next step. Now slide the nacelle in place making sure that the
rear most top corner of the nacelle support is flush with the top of the 
sheeted wings top surface. Use a pin to make sure that this corner doesn't
move. Using a square adjust the nacelle until the firewall is square with the
table. Mark the location of the nacelle supports in relation to the wings 
sheeting with a pen. Remove the pins and using epoxy, glue the nacelle to the
wing. Reenforce the nacelle support joint to the wing sheeting using fiberglass
cloth and epoxy. Install the landing gear and the doors. Sheet the bottom
of the nacelle with 1/8" x 1/4" sticks. Note that where the landing gear
exits the nacelle there should be a square cut out. Install the rear bottom
balsa block. Now turn the wing over and install the tank. The nacelle was
designed to fit a standard sullivan 6oz. tank. Sheet the top of the nacelle
with 1/8" x 1/4" balsa, add the rear top balsa block and the nacelle is 
complete.


Finish

	At this point the ship is ready for a final sanding. Before you 
begin the finishing operation cut and fit the clear plastic wingscreen.
Now finish the plane whatever way you like. I'm planning on using paper and
paint. Perhaps a yellow top view with a sky blue bottom. I saw a ship like
this with british markings. Maybe some invasion stripes of something else.

    Last night didn't net to much progress. I had a golf match followed
    by my monthly club meeting so I didn't get into the shop until 10:00.
    I did get the horizontal stab framed.
    
    I've make some plans to cut my cores so maybe by the end of the
    weekend I'll have me a sheeted set ready for some intense work.
    Tonight I'll get the horizontal stab sheeted on the bottom and
    possible the top of the fuse. I still need to cut F1 the front most
    former. Talking to Jeff yesterday we've decided to change the plan
    slightly. Originally the plan called for F1 to be butt glued to
    the ends of the fuse sides/doublers. We didn't think this was a
    good joint so I'll be cutting back the doubler by 1/8" and recessing
    the fuse side into F1. I should also butt glue the 1/16 sheeting
    in preperation for the wing cores.
    
    
    Tom 

    Tom sure is going like gang busters!!!
    
    I am a little farther behind...  
    
    I may have found some foam out in Colorado - in the RA90 support group.
    Hopefully they will be sending the foam to Tom this week.  I also am
    putting togther my balsa order to go out today.
    
    Then, I'm afraid it is wait a week or so until all of the materials 
    start to show up.
    
    I hope to get a good start on it, but I will be very lucky to fly it by
    this winter.  
    
    anyone else want to join us so we can make a whole air wing out of it??
    
    cheers,
    jeff
    

    	To date this is a partial list of materials used within the
    construction of the C45 project.
    
    
MATERIALS LIST
----------------

	Qty		Description		Note(s)
--------------------------------------------------------------------
	15	1/16 x 3 x 30	sheet		balsa
	3	1/4  x 4 x 48	 "		 "
	14	1/8  x 3 x 48	 "		 "
	2	1/2  x 3 x 36	 "		 "

	2	1/2 x 3/8 x 36	stick		balsa
	3	3/8 x 3/8 x 36	 "		 "
	20	1/4 x 1/8 x 36	 "		 "
	4	1/2 x 1/4 x 36	 "		 "

	2	1 1/2 x 36	trailing edge	balsa

	2	5" x 5" x 1/4"	Plywood
	1	Landing gear block
	1	8" x 8" x 1/8"	Plywood
	1	Mylar (windshield)
	1	1/8" Music wire
	1	1/8" I.D. Brass tubing
	1	3/32" Music wire
	1	1/2" x 1/2" x 12"		maple (wing hold down)


	2	Pkgs.  6/32x 3/4"		bolts
	2	Pkgs.  6/32			blind "T" nuts
	2	Engine mounts
	2	6 oz. Sullivan Round Tanks
	1	Pkg. 90 degree bellcranks
	1	1" Tailwheel
	2	3" Main Wheels
	8	Threaded Pushrod ends
	1	Pkg. Control Horns
	2	Pkgs Landing Gear straps
	1	Pkg. 1/4-20 x 3" Wing Bolts
	1	Pkg. 1/4-20 x 1" Wing Bolts
	2	Pkgs. # 6 Wood screws
	1	Pkg. 40 size aileron torque rods
	1	Pkg. Throttle cable
	

    
    	OK, This weekend wasn't spend entirely on completing this project.
    I now have the entire top section speeted and shaped. The block
    that forms the roof of the cockpit and the nose block. One point
    I will change on the plans is to make F1 out of 1/8" balsa plywood.
    It will help in the shaping operation. I hope tonight to finally
    get to my buddies house to cut the foam cores. This has to happen
    this week. I'll also get the wing mounting blocks installed. I have
    to wait for the wing before I install the norizontal stab.  
    	I did order cowls. They'll be coming from Fiberglass Masters 
    4.5 dia. x 3  for 8.00 a piece.
    
    
    Tom

    OK it's update time.
    
    	This week has been slow with Honey doo items filling most of
    my free time. I did however take off last night and get one set
    of wing cores cut. A little about the wing. I've tried to optimize
    the stability of the wing by doing everything I know of. The center
    cord is a semetrical 75/25 airfoil. This means that 75% of the
    cross sectional area of the airfoil is above the airfoils center
    line. The remaining 25% is below. The tip rib is a fully semetrical
    20% thick airfoil with 3/16" of washout cut into the cord. This
    is done to allow the tip to still be flying when the center of the
    wing is stalled. Wing area is 594 sq inches. 
    	We measured the fuse last night. Now persently the fuse is built
    and sheeted on the top with a block making up the top of the cabin
    and a block shaped at the nose. the Cabin floor is installed. It
    weight 6.5 OZ. Hopefully today will be a short day. I should get
    the cores cut out to accept the nacelles and the throttle wires
    installed. If all goes well I should get the cores sheeted this
    weekend.   
    
    
    Tom 

    
    
    Well, This weekend wasn't fruitful. I did get a package from Fiberglass
    masters with two cowls in it. I spent most of the weekend at a wake
    for my brothers Mother in Law.  Oh well...
    
    
    	Hopefully tonight will see a return to the building of the C45.
    I have the cores all cut so I quess the next steps are to locate
    the nacelles and install the throttle wire. I plan to go to the
    hobby store today and get some Epoxy for the sheeting. I might try
    a new 3M product that is a spary but is supposed to solidify rather
    than be like contact cement. We'll see. I haven't seen and foam
    from Jeff so I'm still waiting on this.  
    
    Jeff, What's your status??
    
    
    Tom

Tom, why don't you use Southern's Sorgum for the sheeting? I'm
sure you know about it, and I can't imagine anything better for
the job.

    John. It's dependent on what you consider "Good". See "Wing sheeting
    with epoxy" for my views...
    
    
    
    Tom

    Well, I'm afraid I still don't have the foam, but I have a number of
    local F.S. people looking and even some people in Colorado RA90 
    support/development.  That seems most likely, although my contact
    appears to be on vacation...
    
    The balsa arrived yesterday from Balsa-USA.  After a short scramble to
    re-locate the plans (my wife hid them on me in the darndest place...
    in the filing cabinet under "R/C - Projects"!!  The nerve!!) I started
    to get things organized to start building the fuse...  
    
    A slower start, but I have started!
    
    cheers,
    jeff
    

    Jeff before you get started I want to list a few items/details I'll
    be changing on the plan.
    
    1) F1 is called out for as a plywood !/8" former. Make this
    out of 1/8"balsawood plywood.
    
    2) The nose sheeting between F1 and F2 is called out as 1/8"balsa.
    Make this 1/4" and sand to proper shape. This give an added margin.
    
    3, Along the top edge of the fuse side laminate a 1/8 x 1/4" balsa
    stringer to help support the glueing of the top fuse wide to the
    top fuse sheeting.
    
    4) Make the main landing gear out of 1/8" music wire as apposed
    to the 5/32nds called out on the plan. This way an 1/8"ID brass
    tube can be used which comes out as 5/32nds OD.
    
    5) Add a cockpit floor made from 1/16 balsa.
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    
    Last night was a cleaning night. I completely cleared off the bench
    and vacummed the entire room. Boy what sanding dust. I then spent
    an hour putting together a little 49.5"span low wing ARF called
    a SKYDANCER. It has an OS40 FSR in it. Boy it should go. Tonight
    I'll get the throttle cables installed and set the wings up with
    sheeting. Then it's on to the fuse adding the wing mount blocks
    and the horizontal stab. I've got an idea for a fixture for setting
    up the stab that I might try... Later.
    
    
    Tom

    
    
    	Last night was spent working working on the wing. I layed out
    the nacelle locations on the cores and removed this section of the
    foam. I then fit the nacelles into the opening to check. Looks good
    so far. Next was to locate the throttle cables. This drzwn in I
    cut the slots on the surfaces with an Exacto knife. The channel
    from the bottom of the wing to the tops was done using an 1/8"
    music wire. To tack glue the plastic throttle jackets I used
    ZAP "Z" Foamer. It's a foam primer. It worked great. When I got
    home I had butt glued the sheeting so now it was ready and I proceeded
    to sheet the cores using epoxy.
    
    This morning I checked the cores. they looked great. Tonight leading
    and trailing edges and wing mounting blocks in the fuse. Maybe even
    some wing tip work.
    
    
    Tom

    OK, update.....
    
    
    When I checked the cores a second time I found that one of the
    gallon jugs of water was leaking and one set of sheeting had badly
    warped. So I cut another core and sheeted it. Tuesday I trimmed
    the sheeting on the cores and removed the sheeting from the 
    nacelle locations. Last night I glued the leading and trailing
    edges to the sheeted cores. Latter when it was dry I carved the
    edges into shape. Today i have to pick up some sandpaper and
    give each core a complete sanding. I'm hoping to have the major
    part of the construction done by this coming wednesday so that I
    can bring it to my clubs meeting.
    
    I'm getting increasingly concerned about balance and have opted
    for a built up horizontal stab without any sheeting. Also some 
    lightening hole will be cut into the vertical stabs and rudders.
    I've also planned to install a 1200ma battery pack up against the
    nose former. I figure if weight is required then it might as 
    well be useful weight.
    
    
    Tom

    Over the weekend I did some checking. I pinned the wing and tail
    onto the fuse and pinned the nacelles on the wing. I then installed
    the engines and set a 1200 ma battery pack on the nose app. where
    it will be. Note that presently the tail is a built up horizontal
    with 1/16 sheeting on the bottom and solid 1/4" verticals and rudders.
    
    When I picked it up it actually was nose heavy. This was a relief.
    Knowing this I'm now going to stay wit the original design of a
    sheeted horizontal stab. 
    
    During the weekend I cut the plywood wing tip forms and laminated
    the balsa to them. Installed them on the wing, shaped and rough
    sanded them. I also installed the wing hold down maple blocks. 
    Tonight I should install the wing onto the fase and complete the
    wings center section fiberglasing.
    
    
    
    Tom

    The last two nights were pretty good.
    
    I've installed the hard points and plywood reenforcements to the
    wing and drilled/bolted the wingto the fuse. More latter.
    
    Last night I worked installing the nacelles and the tail. This went
    rather easily. I blocked up the fuse and set the wing at 2 degrees
    positive. I then installed the nacelles and set them square to the
    table. I marked their locations, removed them and epoxied them into
    the wing. I then went to the tail and set that level and square
    to the center line of the use. Also the tailwheel is done. Works
    quite well.
    
    
    OK about the hardpoints. When a foam wing is used it's important
    that a "hardpoint" be installed into the wing to keep it from crushing
    when the bolt is tightened. Most times a 1" dowl in cut and glued
    into the wing and a 1/4" hole drilled threw the dowl to accept the
    bolt. I've been using the fiberglas arrow shafts in recent designs.
    It has a 1/4" ID and serves to eliminate the crushing. Drilling
    the hole has however always been a problem. The other night I tried
    something different and it worked mint. I took a section of the
    fiberglas tube and using my dremmel belt sander sanded a slight
    bevel into the end of the tube. This was then installed into my
    drillpress. It worked like a champ. It drilled the holes and cored
    the foam out at the same time. Remember to support the bottom sheeting
    with another thick piece of balsa. The foam inside the hole came
    out smooth like cut by a hot wire.It cuts threw balsa sheeting and
    foam at the same time. Id say it "Burns threw rether than cuts but
    it does work great. Try it next time a foam/balsa wing needs
    hardpoints.  After the installation if the hardpoints a plywood
    piece is glued to the outside of the wing to distribute the load
    from the head of the bolt. To drill out the hole you use a 1/4"
    drill down threw the fiberglas rod. after the ply is glued.
    
    
    Tom

    Hello Again.
    
    
    Last night's activity was short. I had dinner to make and a club
    meeting to attend so the only progress was to sheet the bottom
    of the fuse. Tonight I hope to install the tanks, landing gear
    plywood supports and sheet the top of the horizontal stab.
    
    
    Tom

    Last night I got back into the shop and actually worked on the Beech.
    Boy I hope the telephone strike is over soon..... 
    
    Anyways I sheeted the top of the horizontal stab abd installed
    (temporarily) one rudder to make sure the linkages worked. They
    did. Rather neatly!!  After the I cut and sanded the top fuse
    filler block that tapers the top of the fuse down into the
    horizontal stab.
    
    I've abandoned the "thru the bellcrank" tailwheel. I didn't realize
    that actuating the tailwheel this way would give me right tailwheel
    and left rudder. My blunder. So I was forced to come up with some
    other ideas. I had contemplated using a free wheeling tailwheel
    but I really wanted some stearing. What I came up with is a tailwheel
    that is screwed to the bottom ply plate made from a new Dubro
    tailwheel bracket. It's significant because the Dubro bracket has
    a recess molder into it where the wire exits at the top. This allowed
    me to put a right angle bend in the wire and solder on a small length
    of brass tubing. The end of the tubing being flattened to accept
    a clevis.
    
    After this I went to the wing. I had made the two tanks up weeks
    ago so I installed them last night. The fit was perfect with just
    enough room for a little bit if foam. That's it..
    
    
    Hopefully tonight I'll get to the main gear fabrication and
    installation.
    
    
    Latter
    
    Tom

    Oner the weekend I got the tops of each nacelle sheeted with 1/8
    x 1/4"balsa sticks. This has been sanded smooth. I'm having a problem
    locating a wire bender. Hopefully this week will see the assemble
    and installation of the main gear. After that It's radio installation
    time to check everything and then on to finish.
    
    
    Tom

    Last night I completed fabrication the main landing gear. I have
    to stop and pick us some copper wire tonight to solder the rear
    support to the main strut. Tonight I'd like to install the bottom
    strip sheeting. Other than that the nacelle rear blocks will be
    the only items left. Looks like I could start papering the fuse
    or wing this sunday. Maybe. If i get my aunts front steps done.
    Always somethin to do...
    
    
    Latter  Tom

    Well, It's been four months since any reply. Nothings happened in
    that time. The beech had been shelved so work coulf progress on
    a number of projects. Two choppers a Quicky and a 90% built pattern
    ship later and the beech is in the picture again.
    
    One chopper is being set aside for Radio frequency change. The
    second is in test flights and the quicky is finished. pattern bird
    is in holding pattern until I make a drill guide for bolting on
    the wing. Something I've ment to do for a number of years but
    hadn't.
    
    I took the beech down last night and found that one of the rudders
    was missing. I've kept trash boxes below where I stored the beech
    so it probably got nocked off once and is by now in the land fill.
    So a new rudder was fabricated and fitted to the vertical stab.
    Next the wing was fiberglased in it's center section and called
    it a night.
    
    Jeff has finally got his cores( or will have them tonight UPS).
    He says he hasn't been doing any building of late but hopes this
    will get him rolling again.  Jeff, How about the pair of ships at
    the Spring DECRCM Fly-In??
    
    
    Tom

    Well, let's see...  It has been 2 years since Tom originally put the
    plans together, and it has been at least 8 months since an update has
    been given...
    
    My C45 is actually proceeding at a reasonable pace right now.  The 
    fuse is virtually completed, awaiting filling and sanding.  The wing
    halves are joined and the flaps and ailerons are hinged.  All of the
    "through the wing" work has been done (aileron servo wires, throttle
    cables, and zip cord for the on board glow starter.
    
    The nacelles are mounted..  What a pain that was getting them to
    line up and be square and have the right incidence!  They are going
    to be reinforced with fiberglass this week, then I can start sheeting
    the nacelles.
    
    I was very surprised at how much weight the nacelles added, even
    without the glass and engines...  Oh well, we shall see how it goes.
    
    I am working on the landing gear also (actually, Al Ryder is bending it
    for me!).  
    
    With the wing on and the rudders pinned in place, it is really starting
    to look like a real plane!  I expect it to be ready for paint by this
    spring (post skiing) spray painting sessions.  I even found a full
    scale C45 10 miles away that I might copy for the color scheme!
    
    Tom, in your plans, it looks like the sheeting on the nacelles is
    attached permanantly...  Did you make any provision for being able to
    get at the fuel tanks if, lets say, you need to replace the fuel line??
    I am thinking I might make mine detachable...
    
    cheers,
    jeff
    

    
    Jeff,
    		I made no provisions. I suppose one could tack glue
    the sticks at the firewall and then remove them to make a hatch.
    
    I haven't worked on my C45 for a while now but you are catching
    up. When you have the nacelles sheeted and the gear installed we'll
    be even.
    		I'm planning a yellow bird with a sky blue bottom.
    I think I'll install some british markings.
    
    
    Tom

    Tom,
    
    Are you using landing gear as per the plan??  After a discussion with
    Al Ryder in which we discussed how the landing gear will hold up
    under side forces on landing, I have decided to try to put hardwood
    blocks in the nacelles.  The struts will be kept in place by virtue of
    the rear brace.
    
    Comments?
    jeff
    

    
    IT's been quite a time since any updates have been posted.  In another
    note I'm just about finishing up another pattern bird and am looking at
    what will be the next project.  I could build the Enforcer chopper
    kit I've has since late spring, or possible the Dragon Lady I've had
    my eye on, Or finish up the two gliders I started in the spring.  I
    think however I'll go and finish the oldest project I have.  That being
    the C45.  To this end I called up Indy RC three weeks ago when I
    recieved their flier in the mail and noticed they had Brat engines as
    a close out.  They were already sold out.  I then opted for a pair
    of Royal 25's from a different source.  I should begin the final stages
    of construction this weekend.  I only need to fit the engines, cowl,
    radio, ailerons, elevator and fiberglas the wing to be ready for
    covering.  as noter in the past this plane will ge a simple monocote
    covering job with yellow fins and fuse sides/top and wing top.  The
    underside will be sky blue monocote and some detail will be added
    using an ink pen and some decals. I'll probably paint the cowls some
    solid color opting not to paint the bottom side with sky blue as that
    would require me to go out and get a can of paint I most likely
    wouldn't use again.
    
    In thinking over the plans I've thought that I'd do a couple of thinks
    differently if I was to ever build a second example.  Firstly I'd opt
    for a 100% cable driven rudder set-up.  I'd also change the former F1
    from 1/8" plywood to a 1/4" bals laminated former.  The only other
    change would be to install an 1/8" plywood tank floor on the bottom of
    the nacelles and then two gear blocks th hold the main gear.  I had
    thought that the main gear on a C45 was similar to a B17's with dual
    struts.  I've found this not to be the case. Henceforth I'd design the
    mains as a single strut that was anchored behind the firewall of the
    nacelle.  Perhaps there will be a rev B print/prototype for this bird.
    
    That is if someone else was to build one.  Actually I've thought that 
    a twin 60 sized C45 would be just the right size. Probably 75-80 inches
    in span.
    
    
    Tom
    
    P.S. look for further updates in the weeks ahead:-)

    Looks like we're on the same wavelength again. This past couple of
    weeks have seen me putting the finishing touches on my old Dave Platt
    Spitfire. The plane was built 15+ years ago over a 15 month period.
    This was back in the days when I only broght a plane home intact if the
    engine wouldn't start. I never had the courage to try to fly it but
    bought a ST .75 last Xmas with the intent of trying (and broke it in on
    my Panic 8^) and I'm hoping to fly it the first weekend in August with
    my parents present before they head back to Florida. The control rods
    are being replaced and the nose reworked to fit the bigger engine and I
    should be in good shape in time. This definitely qualifies as the
    longest standing R/C project I have in the queue 8^)
    
    Yes, Ajai, it did take me 15 months of evenings to build a plane once
    8^)

    OK!
    
    Funny, I am just clearig the bench after building (2) Eindeckers side
    by side (Yes Jim, they finally got built..   They are ready for the
    first test flight!)  My next project in line is to finish up my
    C-45 too!
    
    I guess I am at about the same point as Tom...  I have already fitted
    the engines, control linkages, and tanks.  However I have not finished
    sheeting the nacelles.  Once I do that, it will be ready for an all 
    over sanding and filling (a bit of hangar rash from the last 1+ year!).
    
    I am planning on using epoxy/fiberglass on the whole thing.  I'll have
    to be careful not to pick up too much weight..
    
    Speaking of weight, it is weird...  This is the first twin I have
    built.  Every time I pick up the wing, I think to myself, "this brick
    will never fly", but then I pick up the fuse and say "hey, maybe it
    will!"  
    
    Anyways, I have managed to stay away from Jim Cavanaugh's and I have
    been building at a pretty good clip this year (for me at least).  If
    I manage to keep my Eindeckers in one piece, I hope to test fly the
    C-45 this fall.
    
    Tom, any clue as to how this is going to balance out yet??
    
    Cheers,
    jeff
    

    Jeff,
    
    I thought the reason we cut 24 Eindecker wing cores was so that you
    COULD test fly them before Spetember 8^) 8^) 8^)

    Jeff,
    
    	Are you asking where the CG is?  I understand what you mean about
    weight but when you stop and think that you have two engines and all of
    their supporting hardware on the wing it gives you a better
    understanding as to why the wing weights what it does.  I did try and
    keep the fuse light for that exact reason.  If I were to make another
    set of nacelles I'd opt for 1/4" balsa sides with two 5/32nds gear
    blocks mounted at the bottom of these sides.  The front block would fit
    adjacent to the firewall and the bottom of the nacell sides.  The other
    block would be app. 2" behind the firewall glued to the bottom of the
    nacelle sides.  The main gear would be a modified nose gear with the
    top bent so that the gear enters the nacelle at the rear block and then
    extends forward to the front block.  This would lighten up the
    nacelle by reducing the amount of wire used in the gear and by
    eliminating the fuel tank floor.  The top of the blocks would act as
    the fuel tank floor.  Maybe go to 1/8" firewalls also but there is a
    certain amount of weight that cannot be reduced.  I'd change the rudder
    control set-up by driving two cables off of the bellcrank and exiting
    the cables from the bottom of the horizontal stab to a normal control
    horn mounted on the rudder. I'm interested in what they do weight when
    finished. I'd guess that the present design could be lightened up by
    1/2 to 3/4" lbs. without any reduction in strength.
    
    
    Tom  
    
    P.S. I hope to fly mine within three weeks.