Conference vmszoo::rc

    I'VE GOT A QUESTION CONSERNING VYNIL(SP?) DECALS. COVERITE MAKES
    NUMBERS AND LETTER IN VARIOUS SIZES AND COLORS, BUT, ONLY GOES UP
    TO 2 OR 2 1/2" INCH WITH THEIR LETTERS (I BELIVE 3" FOR NUMBERS)
    AND THERE SAID TO BE FUEL PROOF. WOULD THIS ALSO MEAN THAT THE LETTERS
    FOUND IN A STATIONARY STORE BE FUEL PROOF TOO? I'M DECORATING A
    FUN SCALE MUSTANG (60 SIZE) AND NEED SOMTHING AT LEAST 3" HIGH IF
    NOT BIGGER TO GO WITH THE STARS AND BARS I'M USING. ANY HELP ON
    WHERE TO OBTAIN SUCH AN ANIMAL WILL BE GREATLY APPRECIATED
                                                    JIM

    Jim,
    
    I wouldn't take for granted that any letters [vinyl or otherwise]
    obtained outside the hobby industry are fuel proof.  If you've found
    some you'd like to use, my advice is to sacrifice one you won't
    be using and condust some tests on it: resistance to raw fuel, hot
    exhaust, etc.  If you find the letter/material is "not" fuel proof,
    use them anyway BUT overcoat them with a sprayed coat of K&B clear
    for protection.  Even the rub-off wax letters like "Letra-set" can
    be used in this manner.  The operative here is: "If in doubt, experi-
    ment."
    
    Adios,	Al

    THANKS AL, AND IF YOU WOULD ANSWER ONE MORE QUESTION, IS K&B CLEAR
    COMPATIBLE WITH MOST IRON-ON COVERINGS ? ( MORE SPECIFICLY, BLACK
    BARON) OR NOT?

    Jim,
    
    K&B clear is compatible with just about everything/anything, even
    the polyurethane paints like Chevron [formerly R.S Perfect Paint]
    and Pactra Formula-U if yer' careful.
    
    It is commonly used to seal overlaps on any of the heat-shrink plastic
    film coverings and to seal/protect decals/trim of vitually any
    material.
    
    Adios,	Al

Jim,

Although the clear may be compatible (ie. the plastic isn't going to vanish
or melt when ya apply it) be SURE to take the sheen off the plastic covering
with steel wool or a similar product.  That is if you're intending to spray
the entire model, wing or whatever, as apposed to just "sealing" the seams.


/Brian

    Good point, Brian,
    
    A light buffing/abrading with 4-aught (0000) steel wool or equivalent
    provides the "tooth" the K&B clear needs to stick acceptably if
    you spray it over the entire model.  For seam sealing purposes,
    you need only apply the clear neatly along the seam with a small
    brush.
    
    Al

    LAST NIGHT I WENT OUT AND PURCHASED SOME 3" VINYL LETTERS FROM A
    LOCAL PAPER-RAMA ( KIND OF LARGE FIVE AND DIME) AND UPON ARRIVING
    HOME, WENT DOWN CELLAR TO TEST THEIR COMPATIBILITY WITH FUEL. I
    STUCK ONE DOWN TO THE TABLE AND APPLYED FUEL ON AND AROUND THE STICKER
    ( IT WAS SITTING IN A PUDDLE). THIS MORNING, I WENT DOWN TO LOOK
    AND SO FAR, NO REACTION. I MAY STILL PUT K&B AROUND IT JUST TO BE
    SAFE. THANKS FOR ALL THE PAST ADVISE AND I'LL LET YOU KNOW HOW THINGS
    WORK OUT.
                                                            JIM

    
    Hot fuel/hot exhaust goo is a much more powerful solvent than raw
    fuel.
    	
    Heck, you probably got a motor around that needs running-in, right?
    	
    

    Jim,
    
    If the letters are located in an area where raw or exhausted fuel/
    oil won't get to them, no sealing will be "required" though I might
    do it anyhow, just for security.  
    
    Adios,	Al

    
I must emphasize what Al just said.  If you want a plastic film "type"
finish to last, it's been my experience that one MUST seal all the seams that
will be exposed to fuel and or such with K & B epoxy or equivalent.  Better
yet, make it a habit to seal the seams on the whole ship.  That way you're
    cleaner wont inch its way in through a seam.

/Brian
                                          

	Now that I'm nearly finished with my Davey Systems 1934 Brown B-2
electric powered semi-scale racer, I'd like to make a decal(s) that says 
"Miss Los Angeles".  My thoughts were to make the decal out of some leftover
Monocoat.  
	My question is ...is there an easy way to cut several idential decals
and align and space them correctly on the A/C?.  I've tried cutting out the 
individual letters and ironing them on some scrap monocoat but the alignment 
and spacing part just didn't work.
	I could call Vinylwrite and have some custom lettering made per note 
639, but that's a bit expensive, besides I wanted to do it myself.  Anybody
got any ideas??
	Pls send info (or condolences)....My wife picked out this kit and 
she won't let me build another model...EVER....unless the "LA woman" looks 
great...so I've got to do the "Miss Los Angeles" decal bit.  
	FWIW..I'm covering it in Fokker Red with Gold trim. It'll be powered
by an Astro 05 geared driving an 11/6 prop and will have airelons, rudder,
elevator and speed control.  Hopefully I'll have it finished by the next 
DECRCM meeting.

	PS.  Sharon bought and painted 2 different 1/8 scale pilots for the 
B-2 racer and now she's talking about another kit for the "extra" pilot, so I 
guess I'm safe.

							Bob

Assuming you can cut out nice looking letters, one way to whip the alignment
problem is to place the letters on wax paper, get them spaced so they look
right, then run a long piece of scotch tape across them to hold them in place.
Then transfer the whole mess to the plane. Does this help?

Dave

    While Kay provides a good source for vinyl lettering, let me suggest
    another one..   You local sign shop...
    
    I was having a terrible time masking the crosses for my Junkers.  The
    frisket paper wouldn't stick well and lining them up was a pain.  Since
    this is just a fun-fly plane anyways, I basically gave up.  
    
    Then I remembered that a guy I knew runs a sign shop in town, so I
    called him.  He has a 36" wide vinyl cutter driven by a PC!  I already
    had my masks on my PC, so this morning I brought the floppy over. 
    After a few minutes of importing and checking sizes and such, he hit
    "print" and a minute later, I had 8 crosses (up to 11" tall!) plus some
    lettering!  A few minutes later he had peeled all of the scrap and had
    a frisket like paper over the top!  While he ended up giving me the
    stuff for free, he indicated that it would have usually cost about $20
    for what I had done.
    
    So, in the future, I am really going to think about using this much
    more.  They have a wide assortment of colors and can cut anything that 
    you can create on your computer!  
    
    I will be clear coating the entire model anyways, but I believe that
    the vinyl would resist fuel very well.
    
    (If any of you New Hampshire folks want to use this guy, let me know.
    But I suspect that just about any sign shop has this ability these
    days.)
    
    Cheers,
    jeff