| I use Sta-Brite solder, as does most of the folks in this game.
Solder should flow; if it all sticks together you probably are
not applying enough heat. If the solder balls up, you need to
clean the metal with flux. The best technique is to heat the
part, then pull the heat away and let the solder flow. A good
joint is where the solder is shiny.
What you're looking for in a good flux is to clean oxidation off
the metal; rosin core solders don't cut the program. Go to a
hardware store and buy flux for soldering copper pipes or a
similar application. I use some stuff that comes in a white tube
-- I don't recall the name.
For the really tough jobs, like when the work is large, I use
some Gonzo stuff that solders up like stink. Its great with
the propane torch.
BTW -- I consider soldering up landing gear as a "large" job,
though it can be handled easily with a good soldering gun.
|
| The easiest way to clean wire is to abrade any dirt or oxides. A
rubber eraser is enough for relatively clean wire, but fine sandpaper
may be needed if there is corrosion. Just remove any surface
discoloration from the area to be joined. Really bad? File it!
The key to easy soldering is the correct flux and solder type. The
flux prevents oxidation while you are heating the wire. Although you
can make a joint with an acid core tin/lead solder, silver solder is
much stronger, and bonds better to steel. STABRITE is one comercial
type that comes with the appropriate flux and is popular. I use a
borax flux made for jewelers simply because I already have it. The
only disadvantage is that silver solder requires more heat than you
might have handy. Depending on the mass of the wire to be soldered,
you may need a propane torch. If you're really desparate, you could
even use your stove ;^)
Flux the wire and apply heat until it is hot enough to melt the solder.
Avoid heating the solder directly with your iron or torch. If you're
using an iron, you'll need to wet the tip with solder to help with the
heat transfer. When the wire is hot, apply the solder and let it flow
into the joint. If it forms balls, you don't have it hot enough, or
your flux didn't keep it clean. Overheating will break down the flux
and you'll need to clean it up and start again.
Its really not difficult, but of course practice helps.
|
| What Bob and John say is true, however, if what you're trying to solder
is a landing gear, both forgot one vital step. Clean the wire using
one or more of the methods mentioned (I like to use fine sandpaper
followed by a washing in acetone) then wrap the joint with fine copper
wire (available at most hardware stores, maybe Radio Shack), binding
the two pieces of music wire together. The binding should be fairly
snug but doesn't have to be real tight.
Now for the soldering; a _good_ soldering gun will work but I consider
it marginal for this task and prefer a heavy duty iron of at least 100
watts. "Tinning" the iron is also critical to good soldering; wipe
the tip against a damp sponge or rag, then apply solder to the tip.
You should have a bright, shiny silver tip...if not, you may have to
resurface the tip using sandpaper or a file to remove all the yuck
until only bright clean copper shows...reapply solder and you should be
all set.
Apply flux (usually a paste but a liquid with the Sta-Brite silver solder)
to the joint, wipe the tip clean and re-tin (wet) it with fresh solder
then apply it to the joint (from underneath whenever possible). The
flux should begin to sizzle almost instantly...hold the iron against
the joint and "test" the joint by pressing solder against it (NOT THE
IRON). Soon, the solder will melt and begin to flow. I keep feedong
solder to the joint 'til the entire area is bright and shiney with
solder and molten solder has puddled on the tip of the iron...then, I
quickly remove the iron form the joint, taking the excess solder away
on the tip. *IMPORTANT* Do NOT disturb the joint...let it cool for at
least a minute before splashing water or whatever on it; if the joint
is moved, you'll get a dull, gray, pitted looking joint (called a cold
solder joint) which has no strength whatever - should this happen,
apply more flux, reheat and try again.
At this point, you should have a nice looking joint with brownish
looking flux residue on it. Many, perhaps most, fluxes are corrosive
and will induce rust and/or corrosion so it should be cleaned off and
neutralized. I use acetone to quickly and easily remove the hardened
flux, then bathe the area with white vinegar to neutralize the
corrosive properties. That should do it; you should have a good
looking, strong joint that will withstand tremendous abuse...I've never
had a joint done as described fail, even in some terrific crashes.
One more word about Sta-Brite silver solder. This is not, in the
truest sense, really silver solder. It _does_ have a higher silver
content than normal rosin core solder and is somewhat stronger but it
is still a low melt-temp solder that can be used with normal soldering
guns or irons...it's a bit pricey but is a good product - I use it and
recommend it. However, done properly, a joint done with rosin core
solder is just about as good. Under NO circumstance would I recommend
using acid-core solder due to the _very_ corrosive nature of the flux.
You _can_ get away with using it if you clean/neutralize everything
THOROUGHLY afterward but never, NEVER, N E V E R, * N E V E R * use
acid-core for electrical wiring and hookups as the corrosive flux is
impossible to clean out of stranded wire and the joint WILL fail!
__
| | / |\
\|/ |______|__(o/--/ | \
| | 00 <| ~~~ ____ 04 ---- | --------------------
|_|_| (O>o |\)____/___|\_____|_/ Adios amigos, Al
| \__(O_\_ | |___/ o (The Desert Rat)
|