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Conference vmszoo::rc

Title:Welcome To The Radio Control Conference
Notice:dir's in 11, who's who in 4, sales in 6, auctions 19
Moderator:VMSSG::FRIEDRICHS
Created:Tue Jan 13 1987
Last Modified:Thu Jun 05 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:1706
Total number of notes:27193

1065.0. "Landing Gears" by WRASSE::FRIEDRICHS (Never trust a premi!) Mon Jul 31 1989 14:08

    Notes 216 and 402 talk about retractable landing gear, but I can't
    find any reference to "shock absorbing" landing gear.
    
    So, this topic will be for the general discussion of landing
    gears.
    
    cheers,
    jeff
    
T.RTitleUserPersonal
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1065.1Shock absorbing gear...WRASSE::FRIEDRICHSNever trust a premi!Mon Jul 31 1989 14:2859
    OK, again I am starting this because I have a problem to solve..
    
    On the 4th landing yesterday, the Bristol pushed one of its landing
    gear blocks up through the bottom of the fuse.  The fuse was made of
    very light ply, I should have reinforced it while I was building it.
    Oh well, no major damage..  Easy fix...
    
    My concern is that the landing gear is VERY stiff.  There is no give in
    any direction so all forces are transmitted to the plane itself.  To
    give you an idea of the setup...  The gear is made of 5 pieces of 
    5/16 (??) rod.  4 pieces make up 2 "V"s and the last piece is the axel
    and runs between the 2 "V"s.  Each "V" is soldered together and to the 
    axel with copper windings around it.  2 hardwood blocks are attached to
    the fuse, one forward and one back, so that each block houses 2 struts.
    Looks kinda like this:
    
    	
    		|	    |			\         |
    		|	    |			 \ 	  |
    		|	    |			  \	  |
    		|	    |			   \	  |
    		|	    |			    \	  |
    		|	    |			     \	  |
    		|	    |			      \	  |
    		|	    |			       \  |
    	    ---------------------		        \O|
    
    		    Front			        Side
    
    To avoid damage to the plane, I want to absorb some of the shock in the
    gear itself.  I am thinking of cutting the axel off at base of the
    "V"s.  Then, use a new piece of rod as the axel.  This new axel would
    run along ABOVE the old axel, and be held on by rubber bands.  I plan
    on making guides for the base of the V.  It would look like this...
    
    	
    		|	    |			\         |
    		|	    |			 \ 	  |
    		|	    |			  \	  |
    		|	    |			   \	  |
    		|	    |			    \	  |
    		|1    2	   1|			     \	  |
    		|V    V    V|			      \	  |
    	    ---------------------		       \ O|
    	        ------------- 			        \O|
    
    		    Front			        Side
    
    Rubber bands would be placed at #1 positions above.  I have also
    thought about making the new axel 2 pieces and joining/hinging them at
    #2 above.
    
    Comments or suggestions.
    
    Thanks,
    jeff
    
    
    		
1065.2I think you should think some more!LEDS::HUGHESDave Hughes (LEDS::HUGHES) NKS1-1/E3 291-7214Mon Jul 31 1989 15:0811
    It looks to me that if you came in for a hard landing, the rubber bands
    would stretch, the wheels would move up, and the cross wire would bottom
    out on the ground and dig in. This isn't the kind of "retracts" you want
    - I would think it could damage the plane more than the original setup
    which would at least keep the wheels in contact with the ground. I would
    suggest you think of a way to let the wheels spread apart to absorb
    shock, like cut the cross bar in the middle and put some rubber bands or
    shock absorber between the wheels. 

    Dave
1065.3HmmmmWRASSE::FRIEDRICHSNever trust a premi!Mon Jul 31 1989 15:3613
    I have been thinking about that, but I have not come up with a good
    way yet.  I refered to using a guide in my note.  This guide should
    also limit travel so that .2 does not happen.  Also, the rubber will
    be bound very tightly, as, like with holding down a wing, I don't 
    want it to move unless it is really needed.
    
    Like in cars, the shock absorbers will/should only do so much.  I
    expect to pay the price for very very hard landings.
    
    Interesting idea about cutting it from the center...  
    
    jeff
    
1065.4has to be betterROCK::KLADDMon Jul 31 1989 15:389
    jeff,
    sounds good to me.  you might try soldering the 2nd axle (containing
    the wheels) to the orig at the center only (#2).  that way the wire
    is acting as spring and you can add rubber bands to endpoints (#1)
    for whatever help seems necessary.  the guides prevent side-side
    movement and you could use them to bottom out before the wheels
    go so high the vee hits the ground.
    actually, that center solder joint might take too much punishment,
    maybe use wire instead?
1065.5SA1794::TENEROWICZTMon Jul 31 1989 16:0312
    I was a fokker set up thatmight help.
    
    Landing gear was normal except that there was an 1/8 inch piece
    of wire soldered between the two gear as a cross piece. Where the
    original design had wanted the wheels the gentleman cut off the
    axle to app. 1/2" in lemgth. Next he had a piece of 5/32 wire that
    ran parallel to the 1/8" cross piece that was wrapped and soldered
    in the middle of the cross piece app.1". As the wire passed where
    th normal axles were he used "O" rings to act a a bungy cord.
    
    
    Tom
1065.6dog toysK::FISHERStop and Smell the Balsa!Mon Jul 31 1989 17:3053
Timely discussion.  I need to enhance the landing gear on my BJ.

Looks OK for static then when I actually fly the beast I break up
the gear bad.  Then I'm doomed to fill and paint before the next static
again.  Mine is simply just two wires soldered together at
the bottom.  Then each music wire is covered with balsa then sanded
to contour shape then each balsa cover is fiberglassed and sanded and painted.

I need to create two cross braces when viewed from the front (to be scale).
and would like them to function as shock absorbers.  I would also like
to permanently shed the balsa cover for something that can take a licking
and keep on ticking.  

I've been looking at god toys with a raised eyebrow lately.  Yes - DOG
toys.  They are a hard rubbery substance and if I could find one long and
straight then I could form a cross brace made out of this stuff.
Along those lines I am presently searching for luggage rack straps (the
rubber ones - not elastic cloth ones).  But haven't been able to come
across any since I was turned on to dog toys.  Anybody know where I
can find luggage rack straps?  Can you sand and form this stuff?
Paint?

In case you come up with an elegant solution let me make it more difficult.
One cross brace is suppose to pass thru the other.  That is one brace
should have a hoop in it.  

Front view

                      -------------------
                     / \               / \
                    /    \           /    \
                   /       \       /       \
                  /          \   /          \
                 /             X             \
                /            /   \            \
               /           /       \           \
              /          /           \          \
             /         /               \         \
            /        /                   \        \
           /       /                       \       \
          /      /                           \      \
         /     /                               \     \
        /    /                                   \    \
       /   /                                       \   \
      /  /                                           \  \
=========                                              =========         

Side view is  just like Jeffs.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
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1065.7basic questions for a tail-draggerABACUS::RYDERperpetually the bewildered beginnerFri Dec 08 1989 09:0010
    Can some one point me to some basic texts or opinions on the placement
    of the main gear of a tail dragger?  (Other than according to the PLANS.)
    
    I can see that the tendency to nose over will be a function of the
    angle between CG and vertical as seen by the axle, but I have no
    idea of the rule-of-thumb for this angle.
    
    I have read in the current issue of RC Report that forward placement
    tends to adversely affect yaw stability on the ground.  But the
    statement was terse and made no mention of left-to-right spread.
1065.8SA1794::TENEROWICZTFri Dec 08 1989 09:4113
    
    	I've seen gear raked at extreme anglesforward and backwards
    and still work fine. What does matter is the relationship of the
    axle of the main gear to the CG location. A general rule is to
    place the axle of the gear at the leading edge of the wing. The
    wheels can be used to some extent as a tolerance. I wouldn't go
    forward with the axles any further than one half a wheels diameter.
    Than is to say place the back end of the hweel at the leading edge
    of the wing. The reverse is the same. As the front of the wheel
    gets close to the leading edge stability wanes.
    
    
    Tom
1065.9HOW WIDE CAN YOU GO........??PNO::CASEYATHE DESERT RAT (I-RC-AV8)Fri Dec 08 1989 12:3725
    I concur with what Tom has said.  I always set the axle in line with
    the leading edge as viewed from above.  The forward/rearward angle is
    far less important than the position of the axle relative to the CG.  
    As a case in point, the struts on the MiG-3 emanate quite far back from
    the leading edge and angle forward radically, placing the axle in line
    with the LE.  It _looks_ plenty treacherous but is really very
    manageable...If I had more rudder throw, I doubt I'd ever blow a
    takeoff.
    
    And _that_ brings up an important point; get all the rudder you
    possibly can for a taildragger...this is _much_ more important than on
    a tri-geared plane.  As to track (width), I know of no particular rule-
    of-thumb on this; within reason, set the gear as wide as possible
    within practical and aesthetic limits...the wider, the better!  Take a
    look at the _extremely_ wide stance of the P-47...this is, without
    question, the easiest ground-handling scale ship around owing to this
    feature.
    
    Hope this helps........

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

1065.10no fixed rule on gear widthPERN::BRETCrazy Hawaiian DTN 289-1604Fri Dec 08 1989 12:387
    There seems to be no set rule to tread (the distance between the two
    wheels) in the real world.  It's related to the wing structure, the
    size of the center section (the strong part of the wing) and the
    ability to contain the strut and wheel. For example, the P-40 retracted
    straight back, the TBM retracts outward, the T-6 goes inward.  The
    Me-109 had a very narrow gear, the P-51 had wider gear.  I would say
    that the choice is yours if you are designing from scratch. 
1065.12What about 1 wheel landing gears?K::FISHERStop and Smell the Balsa!Fri Dec 08 1989 13:3648
>   <<< Note 1065.7 by ABACUS::RYDER "perpetually the bewildered beginner" >>>
>                    -< basic questions for a tail-dragger >-
>
>    Can some one point me to some basic texts or opinions on the placement
>    of the main gear of a tail dragger?  (Other than according to the PLANS.)

In Al Casey's magazine "RCM" the column called "Cunningham on R/C" has been
having a sequence of design articles using rule of thumb stuff rather
than math and formulas for sever issues lately.  I can dig up an old
one (3-4 months back) that covers the landing gear position if you want
but...

Tom and Al and Eric all seem to be in the agreement and I'll bet a Coke
that Cunningham's article matches.

Speaking of Cunningham.  In his latest issue there is a picture of a
motor glider built by Marvin Reese that has a 18 foot wing span.

Check it out.  I saw a reference to it in another magazine a month ago
and wrote to Marv about it.  

The bad news is - it is not a scale model - it is a sport plane and the
plans won't be available for about a year.

The good news is it flys great.  I had asked Marv a dozen questions so
let me quote out of context most of his reply.

A friend is building #2.  It will stay up as long a you want after
the engine shuts down - 30 minute flights are common - spoilers
are an absolute must.  2 piece wing at about 102" each.
Fuselage is 10" wide and about 95" long.  Horizontal stab is 40" long.
Around 2500 sq inches (17 sq feet) at 17 lbs.  Eppler 197 airfoil.
Flaps and spoilers.  Powered with an OS .61 four stroke (not a surpass)
with a 12x6 prop.

One belly wheel and a tail wheel.  Quite maneuverable on the ground
as with only the slightest ground roll you can level the wings.

"I took the sailplane, my Mooney, and my Ligeti Stoator (which is suppose
to be on the cover of Model Aviation soon) to the Council Bluffs, Ia. fly-in
and by far the greatest interest was in the glider.  It is awesome in the air
and a real pussy cat.  I call it 'Ultimate Solitude', which pretty well
tells the story."

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
################################################################################
1065.13Don't forget toe-inCURIE::ANKERAnker Berg-SonneFri Dec 08 1989 15:5318
                With tail  draggers its also critical the the wheels have
        toe-in.  Without this it will be very susceptible to ground roll.
        The effect of toe-in  is that if the plane lifts a wing the wheel
        remaining on the ground will  tend to steer the plane towards the
        lifted wing, which will cause it  to  settle  down.  With toe-out
        you get the exact opposite effect, wing  lifts, plane pirouettes!
        Fun to look at, but not for takeoffs.

                      _ 
                     / |
           _----____/==|
         /__====------- 
             |-          
            /              
           /               
         Hang in there!      
                           
             Anker           
1065.14CTD024::TAVARESNuke Christmas Music!Fri Dec 08 1989 18:4821
Now you're talking Anker!  I've been getting  very little flying
time in lately because Son of Quick Stick suddenly developed an
adversion to straight takeoffs.  It likes to do doughnuts on the
runway.  I followed the advice at the field and moved the gear
back (it was even with the leading edge per CC) that did nothing
but make it worse.  Then I changed to an aluminum gear, from the
old 5/32 wire one, thinking that the rough runway was throwing it
off.  Nope.

My latest was to measure the incidence which I found to be
a whopping 4 deg.  I don't know how it got that way but I
theorized that the wing must be lifting off before the tail and
causing it to go crazy.  I reset it to 1 deg.  But nothing really
cured the problem.  The local wags allowed as to how it was a
small plane and was too hard to fly, why don't I get a big one,
etc...

All the while I remembered the Sage Cunningham's advice to toe in
the gear, which he said the reasons for were too complicated to
explain.  Now you come along and say it in one sentence.  Ok.
Tonite I bend the gear in.