Conference vmszoo::rc

    Dave,
    
    I've used this technique with great success for years in small repair
    and/or construction areas.  I've never used it in larger application
    areas but can see no reason whatever why it wouldn't work just fine.
    For comparison, polyester resin is also quite brittle when fully
    cured so there should be little difference in using CYA.    

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

>    	I have heard of it being done, but don't know the results. One
>    word of caution. Make Damn Sure you have a good respirator/mask
>    and some goggles that fit tight over the face iff'n you're gonna
>    be spreading out a large quantity of CyA at once. The fumes are
>    really potent in that concentration.

I'd like to second that caution - even after you've Zapped it be sure to
wear the mask when you sand it.  That is the most dangerous time cause
microscopic particles are going down your lungs and you won't detect the
problem till you go into respiratory arrest.  Then we'll have to spend
the next 3 DECRCM meetings talking about the late Dave Hartwell and sending
letters to Pacer trying to get them to put a warning label on their
bottle.

Also ounce per ounce the cost of zapping the wing center section with CA
is orders o magnitude higher then Fiberglass.

Have you priced the new odorless CA lately.  About $10.00/ounce!

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
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        Re:< Note 837.2 by PNO::CASEYA "THE DESERT RAT (I-RC-AV8)" >

                I have  used  K&B  polyester  resin for glassing and have
        been extremely happy  with  it.    It  is  mixed differently from
        epoxy.  You add  a  few  drops  of  catalyst to about an ounce of
        resin.  The resin is  liquid  and  can  be brushed on and doesn't
        have to be squeegied to saturate  the  cloth.  It cures to a very
        sandable state overnight.  The final strength  is  created by the
        glass fibers, not the resin.
        
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         Hang in there! o_|_
                          |
             Anker      \_|_/

    I use CA for glassing wing center sections, and always have. I've
    never had a problem with it.  Any stress big enough to crack the
    CA/glass at the joint is more than enough to break the wing into a
    million little pieces evrywhere else too.  As I've said
    otherplaces, I also use CA to glue Carbon Fiber down.  BAsically,
    my philosophy is that CA can be used to bond just about anyplace
    glass resin is used.  The onlytime I go with glass is if I need to
    fill gaps, and my building has improved enough in the last 10
    years that that hasn't been a consideration.  The key is to use a
    plastic bag, or glove, on your hand so that as the glue is applied
    to the glass cloth you can press it down against the receiving
    surface and get a good tight bond.  The only problem I've ever
    experienced is that dried CA is a lot tougher to sand than cured
    fiberglass or epoxy resin.

    the technique of laying glass cloth down with CA bailed me out of
    a jam with the jug.  the fuse was epoxy but i glassed the tail
    surfaces with k&b superpoxy.  the result was/is 2 relatively
    incompatible thingys which dont like to be glued to each other
    with anything but CA.  i had a problem with cracks at the joints
    and ca/cloth looks like it did the trick.  i wont know till the
    next time i rap the tail against the doorway while carring the
    fuse out of the cellar!
    
    kevin

    CA works fine for center section joints, I've used it myself.  One word
    of caution here - once the CA is applied to the center section, don't
    even think of glassing that section again with epoxy or polyester
    resin.  The resin will NEVER cure.  Like Kevin mentioned its OK to
    apply CA over cured fiberglass but the reverse can't be done.
    
       --|--             Happy (con)Trails!
        (O)             
________/ \_______       Scott Cox
    

    
    
    	Dave,
    
    		I've used the technique of Cya and glass with excellent
    results . The local hobby shop owner showed me "how to" last spring
    while he used it on the whole tail section of his 1/4 scale Extra.
    it worked almost 'too' easy and i've been using it since .In response
    to Kay's concern about the price per oz. of the stuff, It depends
    on what you use . If your using Super Jet , no doubt one's pocketbook
    will be emptied. The method I was shown was to spray the surface
    to be covered with 3M 77 ,a tacky adhesive ,then lay your cloth
    on ,streching and positioning it before gluing (we used very light,
    1/2 oz. cloth ) . Now, hold the surface at a slight angle and apply
    "THIN" Jet from top to bottom . The jet will hit the glass cloth
    and spread like widfire soaking into the wood .Rub it with your
    finger where ever there's a high spot ,let it dry, sand , and apply
    a second coat . the Jet will bond the cloth and fill the webbing
    of the cloth ,leaving nothing else to do but apply a couple of coats
    of your favorite primer to fill high spots , sanding in between.
    
    	With this method , you will find a joint strong as steel ,and
    smooth as plastic .And the best part is , when using "THIN" Jet
    and its "spreading" tendency's , only a couple of oz.'s are required
    to cover a whole airplane ! I wouldn't have believed it if I haddn't
    seen it with my own eyes .
                  
    	Hope this helps you make a decision .Good luck .
    
    							Corsair Carl
    
     	 

    I'm almost at this stage where I have to glue my wings together (Still
    need to do some sanding and put the aileron control blocks on...) and
    then reinforce the joint.  From what I've read I should glue the wings
    together with an epoxy, then reinforce them like this.
    Will the film coverings (Monokote etc.) stick to this reinforced area
    with no problems? 
    
    Thanks
    Jean

    My experiences...
    
    On the wings that I have built and reinforced with glass cloth at the
    center section I have used a number of fillers to fill the
    imperfections, holes and to fair the the edge of the glass cloth into
    the wing (such that the wing appears to have no bandage). The best I
    have found is Model Magic which I think is a good 'ol American product.
    Film just loves to stick to it, better than the previous filler I was
    using. I would avoid using those adhesives that increase the
    stickability of films over unusual surfaces as they have a habit of
    reacting to heat and sort of crumbling or softening. 
    
    By the way to get a good smooth surface on an epoxyed wing bandage just
    lay some plastic film onto the soft epoxy an smoth it out - you get
    quite acceptable results and less filler/sanding is required.
    
    After filming it is a good idea to seal the edges with something to
    prevent fuel creaping up under the edges. It also helps to have the
    edges etc of the film on the trailing edge side so that airflow over
    the wing will not pull the film and let the fuel creap in. After normal
    use film tends to get worn at center sections (due to rubbing against
    fuse) and should be addressed asap so that fuel does not ingress into
    the structure.
    
    
    Eric.