Conference vmszoo::rc

That thought occurred to me when I was building my infamous
Eaglet (soon to be resurrected).  The stopper is that the plans
called for glassing in the center section; if I cut that to take
out the dihedral it would create a bit of a mess.  I'd recommend
that you plan on building a new wing.  Wing Mfg. by the way (they
advertise in RCM) has foam wings for most trainers, and probably
has one for the PT20.

As one who has learned to fly on 3 channels, I think if I did it
again I'd go for ailerons...the plane handles nicer, the
instructors know ailerons (its kind of rough on your confidence
when the instructor, who is there to keep you out of trouble,
can't steer your plane down the taxiway because he's used to
wiggling the left hand stick for steering, instead of the right
hand one), and you're flying like the "big kids" right off the
bat.  Additionally, with ailerons you have some start at an
advanced trainer once you solo; I'm having to build another plane
to continue on my learning.  Most trainers can be made to do
beginning aerobatics with enough power and ailerons.

If you want to fly 3 channel, get a glider...or wait until you're
able to fly solo.  

    I'm for ailerons too! You can build your plane with a
    little dihedral and aileron and still fly rudder if
    you wish and when you feel confident, change to aileron.
     Definately try for an instructor and learn airleron, you
    won't have to learn twice and your flying skills will
    develope alot faster. I started flying early this summer with an
    instructor and I went from a slow high wing trainer to a pretty
    snappy low-wing sport plane. I just takes a little patience and
    some good instruction. Enjoy the sport, it really is fulfilling!!
    
    Tom

        Re:< Note 764.3 by MPGS::PERCUOCO >

                We finally agree on something!
        
                Build it  with  ailerons  and  don't bother with the high
        dihedral version.   Just  build  the  low  dihedral, aileron wing
        right away.  I  learned  on  a  PT20 and found it an easy ship to
        learn with.
        
        
                      _ 
                     / |
        |  _====____/==|
        |-/____________|
        |    |        o \
             O           \ 
                          O
         Hang in there! o_|_
                          |
             Anker      \_|_/

    
      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

    
    Not to be off of the subject, I can't understand why kit manufacturers
    and designers install dihedral braces when the surface will be
    fiberglassed.Every wing failure I have seen, with or without dihedral
    braces have hailed outway of the wings center section . I'd venture
    to say app 6-10 inches from the center. The first third of a wing
    is where the majority of the stress is. Not at the center joint.
    If your fiberglassing the center don't worry. It's a simple matter
    to change dihedral. Using a band saw cut the wing in two at the
    center joint. Remove the covering. Remove the fiberglass tape by
    heating with a heat gun. The epoxy will soften enough so that you
    can get the fiberglass cloth off. Sand the wing to get a new dihedral
    angle and then reglue,fiberglass and refinish. When removing the
    fiberglass do it in a well ventalated area.
    
    Oh yes, per the subject matter. Built it with ailerons. There is
    no need to learn 3 channels and the go to 4 channels. Learn with
    4 channels from the start. 
    
    
    
    
    Tom

>>    The first third of a wing
>>    is where the majority of the stress is. Not at the center joint.

	Not sure I'd agree with that in general, Tom.  Especially in
	the case where the wing is attached to the fuse by rubber
	bands.  It seems to me that you have quite a lever and
	the wing center is going to get the worst of it.  The point
	where each wing half meets the fuse side also gets stress,
	but only half as much as the center point.

	The narrower the fuse, the worse it is on the center section.
	I can't argue whether the fiberglass is sufficient to replace
	dihedral braces but I always do more than the manufacturer
	recommends when it comes to beefing up the center section.

	Bill

  P.S. I'm convinced that building the aileron wing is the best approach.
	Along with the other reasons mentioned in earlier replies,
    	I don't think trainers with lots of dihedral behave well
        in windy conditions - something we have to live with quite a
    	bit here in New England.

    Hey Guys,
    
    Mucho grasias !(did I spell that right)
    Thanks for the input, great stuff. I have a 
    friend who has 15 years experence,to this date he
    has had only one misfortune (a midair , clipped his wing)
    [knock on wood]. He has agreed to teach me and I am going to
    join his club.  I am going to build the aileron wing. The fuse is
    done and I am lining up the tail feathers , two or three weeks on the
    wing and installing the radio and it will be ready for covering.
    I am smart enough to have my friend check out everything before
    I seal up the fuse.
    
    	Thanks again,
    
    Bob D.