Conference vmszoo::rc

    Well I'm almost done the wing.....the last pieces seem to take forever
    to complete.  Of course there is sanding and filling and more sanding
    and more filling.  I'm going ahead with the fuse now.  Still empressed
    with the wood quality and ease of understanding the instructions.
    
    Due to a tip from a fellow noter on beefing up the landing gear
    blocks, I cut two pieces out of the wing just over the blocks and
    epoxied the heck out of them.  They shouldn't move or pop out of
    place.
    
    I ended last night by setting the fuse (held together with rubber
    bands ) on a table and putting the wing in place and resting the
    tail feathers on the back end so I could get an idea of what it
    is going to look like.....boy is it big.
    
    Can't wait .....but I still need a .61 engine for it.  Anyone know
    where I can get one at a steal, or fairly cheap?

    re engine: I understand FOX has got a new version of their EAGLE
    (.60) coming out. Should be in the $80 range from mail order house.
    
    Watch for ads in RCM and other..
    
    md

    Ken, I can probably get you a brand new K&B or FOX. Possibly even
    one of the new ASP engines for a good price. If your interested
    let me know via vaxmail.
    
    					Tom

    It's been awhile, but I haven't had much time to work on the "MUNK"!
    
    To update, I just purchased a OS.90FS from Al Reivitis...my first
    4 cycle...so the power plant is taken care of.
    
    I've been puttering around but managed to fininsh cutting up the
    ailerons, flaps and TE.  I have to get 2 7" threaded rods for the
    flaps and more glue!  
    
    The wheels and wheel pants are basically done (mounted on the axle
    but not painted or decal'd).
    
    Other than that, I haven't done too much.
    
    Will keep you updated as the events happen.
    
    Ken

    
    	I finished beveling the control surfaces and slotting for hinges
    this weekend.
    
    	As soon as I get some more glue I can continue with the fuse.
    
    	Servo compartment still needs to be cut into wing and control
    rods for flaps need to be installed, then it will be pretty much
    ready to cover.
    
    
    
    More to come..........
    
    Ken

    
    	Got my OS.90FS last night...boy does it make my OS.25 look 
    like a .049!
    	
    	Question.....Can I mount the engine inverted?  I'm not that
    familiar with four strokes, and I wasn't sure if they can be in-
    verted and run right.  If I invert it, I won't have to cut a hole
    in my cowling and the exhaust will come out the bottom.
    
    	Any comments?  PLEASE!
    
    
    Ken

    You can mount the engine inverted, but it will be more trouble to
    start and idle in that position.  You may need an onboard battery
    to keep it running at idle because fuel can put the plug out.  It
    is easy to get hydrolock when starting.  You may have to turn the
    plane over to start it or clear out extra fuel.  You might want
    to try to mount it in a different position if possible to minimize
    these problems, but it should run inverted if you have to mount
    it that way.  Be very careful when starting to prevent hydrolock!
    You can bend a rod fairly easily if you use a starter and there
    is too much fuel in the cylinder.
    
    
    Charlie
    

    
    	Got a few more hours in this week!  Managed to mount the TE
    containing the flap contrl arm, the top formers, the landing gear,
    drill out and mount the fire wall and cut out the area in the wing
    to mount the servos.  I also put in the mounting blocks and hard-
    ware to mount the wing.  Its held on by two allen head bolts and
    a dowel sticking out of the front of the wing.
    
    	Now I'll start building up the upper fuse.  I'm getting a little
    more excited as I get closer to completion (which I don't expect
    to happen for at least another 4-8 weeks.)
    
    	More when it happens........
    
    Ken

    
    	Well, I finished sheeting the fuse.  Cut out the canopy and
    started cutting out the cowling.  
    
    PROBLEM!!  I can't mount my engine sideways because the carb sticks
    up over the top of the fuse!  Now I'll have to go and re-drill the
    firewall (first I have to get the nuts off).  The Engine will go
    in inverted....at least I won't have to cut up the cowling.
    
    	I also noticed that the tail end of the fuse is warped.....Is
    there anyway to straighten it out?  The rest of the fuse is straight.
    
    Ken

>    Don't tell me I stumpped you guys!  Am I the only one who has ever
>    had a crooked tail (fuse sides)?

    OK, just to get things going, I suggest you saw off the last 6
    inches of the fuse, sand down the cut edge, with a bias towards
    the "longer" side, and re-glue it together so it's straight.

    Ken,
    
    A method we used to use with moderate success is steam.  Hold the
    affected area of the fuse over a steaming tea-kettle (the more steam
    the better) and _CAREFULLY_ twist the fuse in the oppostite direction
    _PAST_ the desired position, remove from steam and continue to hold
    until wood has cooled/dried.  It may take several repititions of
    the process to achieve the desired result and, if the twist is really
    extreme, you may never get it out completely but, if the twist is
    just moderate, this should work for you.  

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

    Ken,
    
    I just had another thought, though I haven't had occasion to try
    it.  It'd take a little longer but you might apply full strength
    ammonia (generously) to the affected area, then block/brace/clamp/
    weight the fuse to just past straight in the direction opposite
    to the twist.  Allow to thoroughly dry (a day or more) then remove
    and check for straightness.  Repeat if necessary.
    
    Ammonia has the effect of _temporarily_ altering balsa's cell-
    structure, making it very flexible for a short period of time. 
    During this period you should be able to overcome the twist in the
    opposite direction.  After drying, the wood may try to assume its
    original position, to some extant.  This is why you should over-correct
    just slightly.

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

    i'll second .-1 about the ammonia and block the fuse in place. I
    did similar thing to my J-3 wing when it came out lookng like a
    banana.. I uses water instead.
    
    md

    Ammonia makes live steam look wimpy when it comes to bending wood.
    

    Thanks guys, I appreciate the help.
    
    So my top three choices are;
    
    	1 - Cut and glue
    
    	2 - Steam and twist
    
        3 - Ammonia and block
    
    
    No. 1 seems alittle drastic...
    
    No. 2 seems the most convenient with moderate danger involved (burns).
    
    No. 3 seems the most effective but POTENT!  What are the application
          methods involved besides ventilation?
    
    Ken

Slightly related to twisting...

In building the wing for a 2-meter glider, AFTER the structure was built, they
tell you to add the washout during the covering process. I did it and it worked,
but...it seems to me that it wouldn't have been THAT hard to build the wingtip
panels WITH the washout built in. That would have made covering and adjusting
for the proper amount of washout much easier...I think. Any other opinions? 

Dave

    It's easier to build straight and add the washout at covering time;   
    it only takes a moment, and you'd probably have to readjust a prebuilt
    washout after the stresses of covering anyway!

    re .3 & ammonia: if you are concerned about fumes, use water. That
    stuff will curl balsa in a hurry !! just dunk the tail part in water
    and block it until it is _COMPLETELY_ dry.  This techniques worked
    fine for me on my wing
    
    md 

    
    	Don't forget, the fuse is all glued!  I didn't notice the twist
    until I got ready to mount the tail feathers....
    
    	I'll try the dunking first and see where I come out...
    
    thanx
    
    
    Ken

    
    	Another situation has occured.....Now that I have inverted the
    OS.90 I have discovered that when the cowling is mounted, it just
    about rests against the head of the engine.
    
    	My question is .....Will the cowling melt due to the heat put
    off by the engine? and...The engine is totally enclosed by the cowling.
    The cowling has two "intakes"...one on either side of the prop right
    at shaft level.  The bulk of the engine is below these air intakes
    and the exit to the cowling is across the bottom of the fire-wall.
    	My question is .....Is there going to be enough air flow across
    the engine or am I going to have to install some baffles to direct
    the air downward towards the engine?
    
                                                      
                                                      
              --------------------------------------  
                                        |---------  |<--- air comes
                              engine -->|____\   |  |       in here
                                        |     |  | /  
                            firewall -->|     |__|/   
                                        |        /    
              ---------------------------       /     
                   air comes --->   -----------/      
                    out here
                         
    
    What do you think......
    
    Ken
    

    Ken,
    
    In my opinion, yer' gonna' have inadequate cooling as presently
    setup.  Some baffling may help but, were it me, I'd simply open
    the cowling directly ahed of the cylinder head.  Also, you should
    have plenty of air exit area to prevent hot air from balling up
    inside the cowling.  Rule-of-thumb used to be exit area = twice
    intake area but we frequently get away with substantially less than
    that, using a baffle to direct _all_ intake air directly over the
    cylinder.
    
    Will the cowl melt?  Possibly.  I hear that 4-cycles run hotter
    than 2-cycles, at least exhaust temperature-wise...I couldn't say
    as regards actual head temp.  Can any of you 4-strokers shed some
    light on this.  You may ned to attach a piece of asbestos to the
    cowl in the threatened area.

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

>>    	My question is .....Will the cowling melt due to the heat put
>>    off by the engine? 
    
        Assuming a plastic cowling, definitely!  You will have to cut
    	the cowling for clearance around the engine head.  But don't
    	worry about it, it's underneath and you'll hardly notice it.
    	I would say keep the cowling at least 1/4" away from the head.
    
>>    and...The engine is totally enclosed by the cowling.
>>    The cowling has two "intakes"...one on either side of the prop right
>>    at shaft level.  The bulk of the engine is below these air intakes
>>    and the exit to the cowling is across the bottom of the fire-wall.
>>    	My question is .....Is there going to be enough air flow across
>>    the engine or am I going to have to install some baffles to direct
>>    the air downward towards the engine?
    
	If you cut out enough around the head you'll get good air flow
    	around it and probably won't need baffles, but they wouldn't
    	hurt.  A happy engine is a warm (not hot) engine!

	Remember Al's comment that you can't be downgraded on static points
    	for an exposed cylinder.  Optimize for good engine running and
    	you'll be glad you did - more time at the field and less time
        in the shop.
                                                      

              --------------------------------------  
                                        |---------  |<--- air comes
                              engine -->|____\   |  |       in here
                                        |     |  |   
                            firewall -->|     |__|  <---CUT OUT!!! 
                                        |                (and maybe reinforce)
              ---------------------------       /     
                   air comes --->   -----------/      
                    out here
                         

    
    Bill

    
    	Well, I tried the water last night, and it did make a difference.
    Unfortunately I went too much to the other side.  I was really sur-
    prised to see it actually work.  However, I speeded things up by
    using a hair dryer.  Tonight, I hopefully will get it to line up
    right where it belongs so I can continue building....
    
    	Thanks for all the help, it really is usefull information.
    
    Ken

    
    	Well, I managed to get a few more hours on the construction
    of my Chipmunk!  I finally got the cowling all cut out (for the
    inverted .90) and glued together.  I had to re-build my wing
    mounts because the wing was sitting crooked and the mounts were
    not very secure.  I all came out great!
    	Now all I have left to do is to straighten out that damn tail
    section, add the control rods, tank, radio gear, covering and then
    look at it!  I don't know if I want to fly it after all the work
    I've done.  Naw......I'll fly it.
    
    More later....
    
    Ken

    
    	Well its been alittle while, but I have managed to get in some
    more hours on the Chipmunk!  I never did get the warp out of the
    tail so I cut and sanded until the stabs were level with the main
    wing.  You can only see the warp if you stand behind the plane and
    carefully look at the bottom  of the fuse.  Shouldn't affect the
    flight characteristics at all.
    	I've got to sand and bevel two 8" blocks of wood to finish the
    slope of the fuse at the tail (what a pain).  Got one of them done.
    	Last night I painted the canopy (the white markings).  Needs
    another coat, but looks alright.  Its pretty much ready to cover,
    but I haven't ordered any covering yet.
    
    More later........
    
    
    Ken

    	The going sure gets slower towards the end, but I guess burning
    in the engine qualifies as a part of the construction process. 
    
    	So, last Saturday I rigged up my OS90 on a test "board" and
    got it fired up.  The directions warn against starting with your
    fingers so I found a nice 14" round stick (okay, so it belonged
    to my kids horseshoe game).  Fueled it up (2 stroke fuel) and a
    few twists of the wrist and away it went.  Smoked like the dickens,
    but sounded real well.  I managed to get 2 1/2 tanks through her.
    
    	One thing about it, ........its kick back is massive, just about
    knocked the stick out of my hand.  I'd hate to catch my finger in
    there......
    
    [ One main reason I haven't been able to work on the Chipmunk is   ]
    [ because I've been busy rebuilding my Eaglet after my brother ran ]
    [ over it with my truck!  But the good news is its 98% repaired!!! ]
     
    
    Ken

    Boy, its been awhile since I replied to this note.
    
    Anyways, I was talking with a Brian Noyes about covering, and he
    suggested that I paint the Chipmunk!  Now in order to do this I
    must sheet all the open areas on the plane.  This would include
    the top and bottom of the wings (not a large area) and the sides
    and bottom of the fuselage aft of the cockpit.  Does this seem 
    to be a wise thing to do.  I know the .90FS has plenty of power
    so the added weight shouldn't matter too much.  I'll just watch
    the CG closely.
    
    Is paint lighter than covering (ie. monokote or ultracote)?
    
    Ken
    

    CARL T.
    
    		JUST FINISHED BUILDING MY GOLDBERG "CHIPPER" AND 
    I USED MONOKOTE .IT WILL BE PLENTY STRONG FOR CUTTING THE SKY
    AND AT THE SAME TIME, WAS EASIER FOR ME. I USED A DARKER BLUE,
    WHITE, AND THE "DARK RED" RATHER THEN THE REGULAR RED.IT REALLY
    ADDED TO THE COLOR SCHEME. I'M ON VAXNOTES FOR THE FIRST TIME
    AND PROBABLY GOT TO YOU TO LATE, BUT TO MONOKOTE YOU MUST MAKE
    THE WING TIPS FROM BALSA BLOCK. THE FIRST THING I DID WAS THROW
    AWAY THE CHEAP WING TIPS, SCOWLED AT THE FILLING NESESSARY FOR
    THE WHEEL PANTS AT THE SEAM TO MAKE THEM LOOK HALFWAY DECENT,
    AND HOPED TO FIND A BETTER COWLING. CUTTING WING TIPS MAKES
    FOR A TIP THAT WON'T "POP" OFF AT THE FLYING FIELD.
    
    	SO, ANYWAY, BACK TO COVERING. I SEAMED A PIECE OF WHITE AND
    RED MONOKOTE TOGETHER AND COVERED THE WING BOTTOM FIRST. ALL
    WHITE ON THE ONE SIDE UP TO THE MAIN SPAR; AND THE SEAMED PIECE
    WIDTH WAYS (AS SHOWN ON THE WING PLAN) ON THE OTHER SIDE .
    THEN FROM LEADING EDGE TO SPAR WITH BLUE. THIS METHOD OF LAYERING
    WORKED THE BES LEAVING A NICE FINISH. THE SAME FOR THE TOP,WHITE
    THEN BLUE. THEN I CUT "CANDY" STRIPES FROM RED MONOKOTE AND
    USED 'TRIM EASE' TO DECAL THEM. 
    
    	SO IF YOU HAVE ANY OTHER QUESTIONS ABOUT THE "MONK" ,
    EITHER COVERING OR OTHER, PLEASE ASK. MY KIT TURNED OUT PRETTY
    NICE AND HOPE YOURS DOES THE SAME !
    
    
    		!!PREJUDICE TO MONOKOTE!!!
    						CARL

    Carl, as a matter of fact, you haven't got to me late.  I'm just
    putting an order into Tower for the rest of my supplies needed to
    finish my MONK!  I'm going to use CG Ultracote.
    
    You mentioned the scheme on the bottom of the MONK, but I didn't
    follow you very well.  I can't seem to find any info in the directions
    that tell what the color scheme is for the bottom of the wing. Could
    you go through it one more time for me?
    
    I also know what you mean by carving the plastic wheel pants and
    cowling.  What a pain in the tail pipe.  But I'm at the point of
    covering, so most of the knife work is done.  By the way, did you
    cover the control surfaces before or after they were installed on
    the plane, and if you installed before covering, did you cover right
    over the hinge so there is no air gap?  I've been debating which
    would be better to do.  I perfer to cover ALL at once with no air
    gap.
    
    What type of engine are you running?  Side mounted or inverted?
    
    Retracts?  Smoke system?  Flaps?
    
    Come on Carl, spill your guts!  I want to know what to watch out
    for before I get to a problem.
    
    
    Ken   ( a fellow MONK )

Ken,

I placed an order with Tower yersterday for a MONK.  Your commentary 
will be very helpful to me during its construction.  I plan to just putz 
with it over the summer so I did not order the engine or radio.  I will 
take my time in deciding what I want and watch for the best prices.  
BTW, what radio did you end up with?

Did you ever determine how your tail alignment got skewed and do you have 
any words of advice on how I prevent the same thing from happening?

I will also be curious how you make out with the Ultracoat.  I tried to 
get it from Tower for my Eagle 2 and they had nothing in stock.  I have 
heard that Goldberg stopped making it and only recently started up the 
line again.

Keep the comments coming.  What other hazzards should I watch for?

Loren

    HI LOREN, welcome to the MONASTERY!
    
    I just phoned my order in, and found out that they don't have any
    Ultracote!  So....I ordered Monocote, since this is what I've used
    in the past.
    
    My radio is a Futaba 6NLK Conquest AM.  I've had it for about 2
    years.  The engine is an OS.90FS which I bought NEW through this
    great notesfile.  Right now I'm running it in a home built 6'winger.
    Lots a power!!!
    
    I don't know why my tail end round up warped.  I believe it was
    because I didn't check on the level of the fuse as I was gluing
    it together.  It will twist very easy when you put the formers in,
    so keep checking it as you go.  The warp is mostly gone, and I 
    sanded down one side of the horizontal "saddle" so the tail feathers
    won't be cocked to one side.  It goes together alot easier than
    you might think, thats why you have to watch and double check before
    you GLUE!  Right now it is just sitting on a table in my cellar,
    "NAKED"!  Looks great though.  I can't wait to fly it.

    Carl, have you flown yours yet?
                                   
    Good luck with the build, and when in doubt, ASK!
    
    
    
    Ken

    
    Hey Ken ,
    
    	Just breezing over the files I've had intrest in and found three
    more reply's to this one . Glad your back to the "MONK" . Since
    the last time , I've run a break-in on the new engine for my Chipmunk
    while it was in the plane . I have an O.S. SF .61 ABC 2 cycle "virgin"
    engine in this bird and mounted it inverted . The reason for this
    was to keep the "chopping up" of the cowling to a minimum and the
    looks at max . I bought a Vtec inverted style mini muffler for .40-.80
    size 2 cycle engines and invented my own type of exhaust pipes ;used
    old Shuttle heli aluminum landing gear tubes for exhaust . There
    was no way I could find a tube bender for heavier diameter tubing
    like this , not alone trying to find the tubing itself .Most places
    have 5/16" but no bigger . My main concern was to try to imitate
    the exhaust pipes in the photograph's on the box ; twin pipes coming
    out of the bottom back of the cowling .It came out great ,so it
    was time to test it and see if the muffler and pipes were going
    to work ok without overheating (the muffler seems kind of small
    for a .61) .the breakin was very sucsessful ; no over heating ,less
    mess because all exhaust was routed out of the bottom , it looked
    pretty good , and the only cutting I had to do was in the front
    of the cowling for the carb and needle valve . No cutting on the
    top or sides . I put a homebrew onboard ignition system in it and
    drilled a small hole in the bottom of the cowling just large enough
    to allow a NI-starter to fit if I ever had to bypass the ignition.
    I also drilled a 1/4" hole on the side of the cowling to access
    a DuBro filler valve that was mounted so it would come up flush
    against the cowling when it was slid on . The photo's showing the
    muffler system on the box were for a 4 stroke engine , so I had
    to improvise . 
    
    	As far as the gear goes , there were "Two" Real Chipmunks built,
    one had retracts and one had skirts . I saved the retract Job for
    a F4U Corsair that I'm currently building and went with the skirted
    version . It really looks good that way and I'm glad I decided to
    go with them now that I can look at the completed product . It just
    seems to look "finished". I was talked out of a smoke system by
    the owner of a hobby shop while I was standing in front of the case
    that had all his smoke systems displayed . Speak of throwing away
    a sale ! But the point he made was understandable . the "MONK" has
    enough room for a tank that will hold about 3-4 minutes of smoke,
    not including the extras plus the weight plus the special "Heater"
    you have to get for a 4 stroke engine .The plus's go on and on .I
    decided I'll wait for that Christian Eagle(soon I'm hoping) to put
    smoke in .He could of sold me about 50-60 dollars worth of smoke 
    equipment , but instead helped out . As is , my Chipmunk weighed
    in at about 9 1/4 lbs. , a good weight for this plane .
    
    	Flaps , Yes !!  I decided to go with flaps just for realism
    and something extra to do . Now that they're in and done , I am
    very happy with the decision I made on the do it or don't .There's
    no feeling like hitting that switch and watching them work . Yes,
    I'm easily ammused !
    
    	If you decide to mount control surfaces and then cover , there's
    a few things you have to consider . I covered first , then mounted
    using the Goldberg hinges provided , then candy striped with "Dark"
    red Monokote . I keep emphisizing dark red because of its color .All
    the other red's look orange rather than red where this is a true
    "Amercian flag" , blood red . All the other "MONKS" at the field
    used the old Monokote red and this one stands out like a sore thumb.
    Anyhow , back to covering . I covered , then mounted and had no
    troubles . If you decide to mount first , consider this . You will
    have to cover the ends of your ailerons and flaps first because
    after they're glued in , how will you get a iron in that small gap
    between flap and aileron or aileron and wing tip to cover it . Also,
    you should use a different hinge . Sig easy hinge will work better
    for this because it will not have that center shaft and therefore
    "bump" that you'll have to iron around . You also will have one heck
    of a time with trying to get around the flap's "strip airelon wire"
    with an iron . I hope these inputs help you decide on what to do.
    I've asked around and don't see any problems with non-gapless surfaces
    on this bird . If you cover last , I'd say go right over the hinges
    for added measure .
    
    	Well I hope this helps you out . If you have anything else ,
    I promise to keep up on this note and help if I can .
    
    							Good luck,
    							    
    							     Carl
    
    P.S. : will tell about the maiden voyage sometime in april I hope.

    
    
    	Forgot to add , the stripe job on the wing "bottom" is shown
    on the wing plans along with the vertical stab decal layout and
    dimensions for stripe width . One side of the wing bottom is candy
    striped , the other side has the blue , white , then red color bar
    running lengthwise(with the spar) from tip to center .
    
    							C U Later ,
    
    							     Carl
     

    Thanks for the input Carl.  I'm still waiting for UPS to deliver
    the final parts needed to complete the MONK.  I guess I'll just
    cover and add the control surfaces afterwards (easier).  I did 
    order two extra servos.  One is for the flaps, and the other is
    for...... whatever I can think of......maybe retracts, smoke, 
    camera (but not in the MONK), bombs, etc........
    
    Boy am I getting excited about finishing this bird, its been almost
    1 year since I got started on it!
    
    My OS90FS has a long head so it sticks out of the bottom of the
    cowling (just barely).  I'll have to use an on-board ignition 
    system because I can't get a ni-starter on the plug do to the angle
    of the plug.  I'll have to drill out a very small hole to allow
    for the allen wrench which is connected to my needle valve.  It'll
    hardly be visible.  Tom Perccuoco (sp?) gave me alot of info on
    an on-board ignition system, so I'll be set in that area.
    
    How do you feel about the wing bolt connections?  I don't feel very
    comfortable with the way the instructions say to mount the blocks.
    I'll probably reinforce them greatly before I finish up.
    
    Well, got to get back to work.  I'll keep you posted on the results,
    and good luck on your maiden voyage.
    
    
    Ken

    
    	Ken ,
    
    		About those wing mounts . I too had second thoughts
    about the wing mounts they gave you . It started when I put together
    a Goldberg Piper Cub . It used the same small bolt-on system that
    the Chipmunk does . I threw them to the side and bought DuBro's
    wing mounting kit consisting of strong plastic mount plates with
    screws and 1/4" x 20 x 2" nylon wing mount bolts . They are super
    strong and easy to cut to size . Just about everybody at the field
    has good things to say about them . I'm sure it's not to late for
    you to add them in . When I built the Cub , I wound up removing
    the blocks and bolts and adding these . I've never regreted it since.
    
    	One other item . Remember those 8" balsa blocks you had to carve
    and sand to shape for the fuse trailing tail ? Well if you can , glue
    them on before you cover the fuse . This involves a little more
    work to the tail section ,eg; having to glue them on with the stab
    and fin covered with plastic wrap so Jet doesn't make a permanent
    fixture of them prematurely . I can give you more details on this
    if you want . The big advantage was after everything was covered
    , there were no seams at the tail section . Well , see you for now
    and good luck .
    
    							Carl
    

    Good idea!  I'll get rid of the wing bolts I have and get some of
    the Dubro bolts.
    
    Give me more info on the installation of those damn 8" blocks. 
    Boy thats a pain in the butt carving them down.
    
    How did you install the canopy?  I might try using Velcro just to
    see how it works.  Who knows???
    
    Ken

    
    	Ken , 
    
    		I used Withold RC56 to glue the canopy in place . Its
    alot like Elmers white glue , but is fuel proof when dry . I put
    glue on the canopy edge , then at four places put strips of masking
    tape to hold the canopy on and in position . While the glue is still
    wet , you can use your finger to wipe off the majority of excess
    glue , then a damp cloth will take off the extra that smeared when
    you used your finger from before . I think you won't believe the
    results you get ; it looks great and there's enough glue in that
    bottle to fill any small gaps that are left , plus enough to do
    another lifetimes worth of canopys . If you still don't trust it
    to hold the canopy on , put a fillet of Super Jet around the whole
    thing . Nothing would get that canopy off then(just don't come close
    to the wet Jet until it dries) . Oh yeh ! Forgot to mention . Let
    Withold glue dry overnight .
    
    		Will answer the 8" block question in the next issue
    of "Chippers forever" ....
                         
    							Carl

    
    
    		Forgot how I really did it . Use strips if masking tape
    to hold the canopy down first and get it aligned and straight .
    then lift up the left side(or right) masking and pivot the canopy
    over like it was hinged . Then go from there with applying the RC56
    glue . Sorry about that .
    
    							Carl
    

    I actually did some more work on the "MONK" last night!!!  After
    waiting 3 weeks for my order to get straightened out with Tower
    I received all my supplies to finish the "MONK".
    
    All I got done was covering the Horizontal Stab and Elevator.  But
    thats another step out of the way.  I tried something different
    this time while covering.  I only covered half a surface at a time.
    Usually I'll cut one piece and cover the top and bottom together
    so I don't get alot of seems.  Well let me tell you, this was alot
    easier to do and I don't have visible seems!  Live and learn.
    
    So, the "MONK" is back in the bench and hopes to be flying by the
    end of May!!!!
    
    Ken

    
    	Well, the Florida vacation is behind me and its time to get
    back in the swing of things.  
    
    	I've installed the servos for the flaps and ailerons.  The flap
    servo was difficult to secure.  It is standing upright whereas the
    aileron servo is laying down and screwed in.
    
    	I've filled and sanded all rough spots and am now starting to
    install the servo tray.  Once that is done, I'll put the gas tank
    in and cover it.  NOT MUCH LEFT!!!  I hope to be flying the MONK
    by Memorial Day.
    
    Ken

    	This weekend I managed to get the gas tank ,the servos, and
    the engine installed.  I had to make a cradle for the gas tank,
    but I lined it with foam to reduce vibration.  Looking better
    each day...
    

    KEN,
    
    	Just got back from my honeymoon and this is my first week back
    to work . Looks like your doing just great with the "Bird" . Hope
    you had a good vacation . 
    
    	I hope your pleased with your choice of covering rather than
    painting and glad to see the progress you've made . Just a reminder
    while your covering . Someone (guess who !) forgot to glass his
    elevator rod in when conecting the elevator halves and had to go
    back and cut away covering to re-do this . Hope you didn't forget
    this like I did . 
    
    	Well , bye for now and keep those updates coming . Its been
    a long time but don't get discouraged ! Your almost there!
    
    
    Carl
    

Glad to see someone making some progress.

I have been hacking away at my monk ever so slowly.  I have nearly 
completed the tail feathers.  Glassed the elevator last night (and I 
won't make any comments about this).  This kit is definitly a shade 
tougher than my Eagle.  But then again, I haven't solo'd yet so I guess 
I'm in no rush.

Hope to hear some flight reports soon.

Loren

    Carl,
    	Guess what????   I forgot to do it!   I had it done but discovered
    	it was crooked, so I took off the glass and never put it back on.
    	I'll fix it.
    
    	Tonight I hope to finish glassing the center of the wing, cover
    	the control surfaces and sand and fill any remaining dings in the
    	wing.  Hopefully by this weekend, I'll have the wing covered.  I
    	could start covering the fuse, but I don't have all the guts
    	installed yet, so why bother.  I'm still throwing around the idea
    	of using velcro to attach the canopy.
    
    	Materials left to buy;
    		-pump for smoke
    		-oil for smoke
    		-fitting for muffler for smoke
    		-check valve for smoke
    		-on-board ignition system from INDY
    		................and thats about it!
    
    	I don't know if I asked you this earlier, but what do you use
    	for a re-fueling valve.  I have a Dubro Kwik Fueler Valve.  I
    	just have to figure out where I want to install it.
    
    	More later.
    
    	Ken

    	Ken ,
    
    		I also used the DuBro "Kwik fuel valve" . What I did
    was I built a "L" shaped mount from 1/8" plywood . Its about 1 1/4"
    by 1" by 1" wide . I drilled the 1 1/4" by 1" wide side at center
    and about 1/2" from one end for a hole big enough to fit the "Quik
    Valve" in and then , rounded this end's corners so that there were
    no sharp edges at this end . Then I glued this piece to the other
    1" x 1" piece making an "L" . I then cut two 1/2" triangles from
    ply and glued them in at the sides of the joint to reinforce it.
    
    What it should look like is this :
     
    
    
    			 ____
    			|    |
    			|    |
    			|....|   ___
    			|    |    |
    			|    |    | 
    			|    |    |-------> drilled hole for valve
    			|    |    |
    			|    |    |
    			|....|\  _|_
    			|    | \
    			|    |  \
    			|    |   \
    			|    |    \  <------ doesn't look like it but
     			|    |     \         should be a 45 degree angle.
    			|    |      \
    			|    |       \
    			|    |________\________
    			|    |		       |
    			|____|_________________|
    
    
    
    
    
    	When you have this built (it took me about an hour or so ) ,
    glue it to your firewall making it's face ( NOT the plate , but
    rather the protruding valve assembly ) flush to the fuse side .
    Then drill a small hole the size of your fill valve nozzle in the
    side of your cowl . this way you have fueling system thats clean
    looking and easy to fuel . Hope this helped . Good luck and I hope
    you can make good sense from my attempt at drawing .
    
    C U later ,
    
    Carl
    
    

    Thanks for the info Carl, sounds like a simple enough task.
    
    Well last night I managed to cover one aileron and flap and I also
    finished glassing the wing.  Only this time I tried the method
    described somewhere in the notesfile of using CA instead of Resin
    and hardner.  I was amazed to say the least!  It went on easier,
    faster and I didn't have to wait hours to sand.  My only concern
    is the strength of this type of glassing vs. resin.  Seems fine!
    So the wing is all sanded and ready for covering.  Bellcranks are
    installed, aileron servo is mounted and me thinks thats all I need
    other than the flap servo (which I haven't quite figured out how
    to mount yet.  So maybe tonight I cover the wing.
    
    Carl, did you piece the covering together on the wing due to the
    red, white and blue?  I plan on covering the leading edges in blue
    first, then add the white to the trailing edge followed by the red
    strips across the white.  Since the bottom of the ailerons and flaps
    are all red, I covered them entirely in red and will add white strips
    on the top.  How did you do yours?
    
    I'm hoping to have it ready to go by this weekend.
    
    Ken

    
    Last night I finished covering the other aileron and flap.  I also
    got the top of one wing covered (blue and white only).  Boy what a
    chore!  Looks pretty good for using a household iron.    Hopefully
    tonight I can finish the whole wing.  I also started whittling the
    second  "flare"  that streamlines the fuse down to the back of the
    fin.
    
    Ken

    RE:.55
    
    	Ken ,
    
    		in covering the wing , I covered the bottom first ,
    then the top . On the bottom half (I'm not sure if it was the left
    or right half) , I seamed a piece of red and white monokote widthwise
    (from tip to center) with about 3/8" overlap . Then I covered that
    bottom half of the wing from the trailing edge to about 3/8" on
    the rear of the leading edge sheeting . I then covered the other
    bottom half of the wing in white , again from the trailing edge
    of the wing to the rear of the leading edge sheeting , also leaving
    about 3/8" of monokote "hanging on" to the rear of this leading
    edge . Then from the "leading edge" to the rear of the leading edge
    sheeting I coated in blue . The blue overlapped the white about
    3/8" or so . Well , what do you know ? Thats about how much I 
    overlapped in white . I was told prior to covering my wing that
    about 3/8" of overlap with monokote was good for thw wing . You
    can use less on the stab ,fin and fuse . I can give you info on
    seaming two pieces of monokote together if you want . It wasn't
    until I started building this bird that i need to know how , but
    once done , its not as hard as it sounds . Good luck and keep those
    updates coming !
    
    PS: Sounds like your doing great on the flaps and ailerons !
         
    
    Carl
    

    
    Ken,
    
    		Forgot to answer . I candy striped in red over a white
    monokote base rather than the opposite . If you stripe white over
    red , the red base may leave the white monokote looking a little
    darker than normal (due to the fact that even though it's white ,
    it's still semi-translucent) . If you leave streaks of red on the
    white , they will come off using a little bit of  "Bubble Free"
    trim applicant . Have fun !
    
    		Oh , and we'll say HI to Loren and welcome aboard .
    
    
    
    Carl
    

    Absolutely!  Didn't mean to "cut you off" Loren.   Theres always
    room in this monastery for another MONK.
    
    So what gives.....you said no comment about glassing the elevator.
    Spit it out.
    
    Carl, thanks for the info.  If I had been thinking, I too would
    have started from the bottom.  But it still looks good.  I don't
    think I'll seam the red and white before covering.  I'll just do
    some simple measuring and eyeballing.  The only pain is the blue.
    It took me close to an hour to measure cut and seal.
    
    So, have you flown yours yet?  I'm really anxious to see how the
    flaps are going to work.  I'm also concerned about snapping it in
    during take-off.  This is probably due to constantly reminding 
    myself that it is not a trainer and has a low symetrical wing and
    I will have to stay on the sticks to keep it flying and I can't
    make any dumb mistakes and.......
    
    Loren, let us know how you are doing on yours.
    
    Ken

    Ken , 
    
    	I entirely forgot about the "eeehhh uuhhmmm" , elevator you
    missed ! , but we'll let you slide this "ONE" time . I start a weeks
    vacation tomorrow night that has been reserved for nothing but building
    and flying . My fellow flyer (a manager in software upstairs) ,
    myself , and two of his friends (who are driving down from Minisota)
    plan on trying out a lot of "virgin" aircraft next week . I'm currently
    putting a radio in a scratch built .60 Stik , working like a mad
    man getting it ready for this next week so I'll have both a virgin
    Chipmunk and a virgin "ANIMAL!!" of a Stik to debut next week .
    Tell you all about it then . Keep building and don't rush . Make
    sure everything's good before you fly and if you do try it , don't
    worry about snapping it on takeoff . You'll be accelerating at takeoff
    and pushing enough air across the flying surfaces to avoid any kind
    of snap . With low wings I've found that a shallow angle of acsent
    aids in settling the nerves and keeping airspeed up . worry more
    about that first landing instead . Coming in a little "hot" helped
    me my first time with the low wing . It almost landed itself ! One
    more thing if you didn't know already . Don't use the flaps the
    first few times , but rather try them in the air at a safe altitude
    and slower speed to make sure either one doesn't need 'trimmed'
    before real use . Also beware of the "see-saw" effect which happens
    when flaps are usually tryed . EG:
    
    		The pilot is at a safe altitude , he slows down the
    aircraft to test the flaps , flips the switch , the plane "ballons"
    with the nose up , slows tooo much , stalls , dives down , picks
    up speed , pilot pulls up , plane stalls again , dives down , etc....
    Keep a little throttle in it and you should be fine . So long for
    now and keep em flying .
    
    
    Carl
    

    
    	Got 5 more hours on the MUNK last night!  The wing is now
    	covered (less the candy stripes), ailerons and flaps are
    	glued in place and all thats left is mount flap servo,
    	install the control horns and re-attach the wheels.  Man
    	does it look PRETTY!
    
    	If I have time tonight, I'll start finishing up the fuse
    	(stuffing and covering).
    
    	One note to fellow MONKS:  Carls method of seaming is going
    	to be needed due to the wing not being completely solid. It
    	takes alittle practice, but is definetly easier than trying
    	to seam between wing ribs.  Thanks again Carl for the info.
    
    	Ken

    KEN ,
    
    		6:37 IN THE A.M. !!!! You've got to be kidding me !!
    You should still be sleeping ! Well thats dedication for ya . Glad
    to have helped with the seaming . Just wanted to let you know to
    be careful when shrinking the seam with a heat gun . Too much heat
    can cause the seam to pull apart , so avoid direct heat there .
    Have a good one .
    
    Carl
    

    
    	I have a question concerning placement of the antenna wire.
    Would it be okay to keep the wire inside the fuse as long as it
    is fully extended?  My concern is interference with the signal
    due to metal pushrods which would be just above the antenna. 
    Will the pushrods interfere with the signal?
    
    Ken

>    	I have a question concerning placement of the antenna wire.
>    Would it be okay to keep the wire inside the fuse as long as it
>    is fully extended?  My concern is interference with the signal
>    due to metal pushrods which would be just above the antenna. 
>    Will the pushrods interfere with the signal?

Experts correct me if I am wrong.
FM sets don't have the noise problem with metal to metal radio interference.
Old AM sets can.

I have been putting my antenna's inside the fuse all along and never
had a problem (both AM and FM) - but - maybe I have been lucky.
And they have not been fully extended - my fuselages aren't long enough.

Soooooooo my advice is use wooden pushrods if you have AM else bury
the antenna in the fuselage and try to keep it as far away from other
wiring as possible.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
================================================================================

    The antenna should always be fully extended because it is set to
    a length tuned to 72 Mhz. If you shorten the antenna by clipping
    it shorter or by coiling it I'm quite certain you are cutting down
    on the signal strength that the receiver will see. Thus you open
    pandora's box for less noise immunity, and a shorter allowable
    distance between TX and RX. What I did on my Kougar is simply leave
    the extra 6-8" hanging out the back. Ya can't even see it in the
    air, and it interferes with nothing.
    
    
    							Dave
    

    
    Yes, It's OK.
    
    You can install a blue outside tube from Nyrod from the rudder
    hinge post to the radio compartment. Pass the antenna down this.
    Like dave say's, leave the excess out the back.
    
    Tom

    
    	Finally!  The fuse is covered, the cockpit is installed and
    other than installing the canopy and the cowl, the MUNK is ready
    for a test flight!!!!!  If the rain stops, it will be today.  I
    wonder how Carl is doing.  Sure wish he was back to give me any
    advice on what to watch out for.  Remember, this is my first low
    wing aircraft.
    
    	Oh well, wish me luck!
    
    Ken

    Can't talk for the monk, but my first low winger a Sport-Air 40
    which is real predictable, and stable set me up for a real surprise
    the first time it took to the air. I set up all throws up to spec
    and even at that it was a handful for me compared to the PT40.
    My suggestion is to set up the throws a tad bit less than recommended,
    especially on the alerons. Dual rates work well here. Depending
    upon the characteristics of the high winger you had it'll be
    easy or challenging.
    
    
    			Best of luck............ Dave
    

    
    Ken, I'd suggest you enlist the help of someone experienced with low
    wingers - you might be initially surprised with the characteristics,
    particularly stall speed.  My first symmetrical low wing (SS20) flight
    was hairy, especially when it went dead stick!  I stalled it trying
    to reach the runway and did minor damage - they sure don't float like
    those high-wing flat-bottom jobs!  
    
    Oh yeah - I do have one piece of advice - move the CG slightly forward
    of what it should normally be for your first flights until you have a
    feel for it.  This will add a little stability.  A heavy prop nut is
    a good way to do that, then you just remove is when you're ready for
    stunts.
    
    Whatever you decide - good luck!!
    
    Bill

    No problem, Carl.  I know how hectic coming off vacation can be.
    
    I was hoping for some info on the flight characteristics though,
    but thats life.  This weekend doesn't look to be very good (rain
    Saturday and windy Sunday) so I don't anticipate flying.  Oh well,
    it just gives me more time to do the finishing touches to the MONK.
    
    One problem I ran into was using the muffler on the OS90.  The angle
    doesn't quite cut it as far as clearing the cowling.  I can get
    everything on, but it causes a bulge and a slight twist to the cowling.
    
    So what I did was to take the straight pipe and jury rig it to the
    header pipe and it lines up perfect.  The problem here is now I don't
    have the back-pressure valve to connect to the gas tank.  So this
    morning I took the straight pipe and a valve (taken from another
    muffler) over to a friend of mine who works in a machine shop.  I
    asked him to tap out the pipe and attach the valve.  Now, from my
    simple mind I don't see any problems with this.....Is there?
    
    Ken

    	
    	Ken ,
    		I don't think tapping a hole in a straight pipe will
    be very effective . I would think that you need some type of back
    pressure caused by a muffler system for decent pressure feed back
    to your fuel tank . I don't believe a straight pipe will do that
    ,rather the exhaust will take the easiest exit through the pipe
    and not back to the tank . I have run my .90 four stroke side mount
    with the straight pipe and no tank pressure feed in my piper cub
    with no problems at all . But for the "MONK" and the aerobatics
    you'll be doing , some sort of feed should be installed . 
    
    	The cheapest way is to make a custom pipe , cut to the right
    length and bent up and around to an angle that can accomadate your
    muffler inside the cowling . We did this last week with the 1.20
    size stik by using a brass tube that had an I.D. the size of the
    exhaust pipe so it will slip over the exhaust and bend and exit
    wherever you want . Yuo can tap the pipe and exhaust and use a 4-40
    bolt to "set screw" them together .
    
    	The other way , not as cheap but probably my favorite is to
    use the exhaust header pipe like you have it and go to your local
    hobby store ( What !?? Spend more money ? ) and purchase a pump
    like a Perry . They work well and will give you a steady fuel flow
    no matter what attitude the aircraft gets in . They are about 19
    to 25 dollars . It could be mounted right inside your cowling .
    
    	Well , I've blabbed enough . Let me know what you decide and
    how well it works .
    
    	good luck ,
    
    
    	Carl
    
    the cowling 

    
    	Ken ,
    
    		Well , I went out Saturday and wound up giving the ole'
    Chipmunk it's virgin run . Guess what ??? It flies like a baby !!!
    all my trims were real close . On take-off , this bird brought it's
    tail up and then with very little elevator , lifted off at nice
    shallow angle of ascent . Once in the air , you'll be able to tell
    the difference between a "high" or "shoulder" wing plane and this
    one . All high wings seem to float in the air as if they're a parachute
    being pulled across the sky . This guy is a lot different . He "FEELS"
    like he's being pushed through the sky and if this "push" stopped ,
    he would drop like a rock . It takes a lot of elevator (more so
    than a high wing ) in the turns to maintain altitude , but other
    than that you couldn't tell the difference between it and a high
    winger . Aerobatics are phenomenal ! Landing was a bit tricky due
    to a 2-10 mph gusty crosswind . I had mis-judged my first landing
    and wound up being pushed (by the crosswind) into the high grass
    on the far side of the runway . A broken prop was easily fixed ,
    but I'd advise not trying to fly this one in those conditions .
    If I had been just a little more patient , huh??? But I just couldn't
    wait. Anyway , if you come in at about a 20-30 degree constant and
    steady angle of decent , then flare you'll feel the buffeting effect
    of a low winger and how it tends to ride the flare for a while .
    
    	Well , enough gab ! Just wanted to let you know that it "does"
    fly and fly well . But , most of all , It has to bee one of the
    most colorful and good looking birds I've ever seen in the sky !!!
    Yes , I'm a bit one sided !!!!!!
    
    		Carl
    

    
    	Alright Carl!  Congratulations!!!  
    
    	Its very assuring to hear about your non-eventful flight.  I'm
    getting so anxious now its killing me.  I've yet to put on the candy
    striping and the canopy, but other than that it's ready!
    
    	Did you fly with your pants on?  (your wheel pants that is)  I
    don't know if I want to take the chance of wrecking them on the
    first flight.  Now wait, I'm a good flier, the heck with this planning
    on crashing bit.....I'm going for all the gusto!  Hopefully this
    week.  I'll keep you posted.
    
    Ken		
    
    P.S.  Did you use your flaps?

    
    	Ken ,
    
    		Yes I did remove the wheel pants , only because of the
    high grass  ( @1 1/2 - 2 ft high ) and for safety sake . I also
    ran with the cowling off so final tuning of the engine before the
    first flight could be made easier . A friend got it on video tape
    for me and it came out good . This bird is fast ! I ran about 2/3
    throttle during my flights and the "Monk" was really screaming .
    I can't imagine running it with the larger pitch prop I have in
    mind .
    
    		Well , good luck with your final touches and make sure
    you candy stripe before you fly . I can't tell you how big of a
    difference it makes . I took a few very hot turns ( knife edgelike)
    and the colors on the wings made this bird a real "Looker" !!! Will
    keep up to date on your progress . Good luck and ,
    
    
    	Keep em' flying , 
    
    		Carl
    

    
    	Well, for all you MONK'ers out there here's another update to
    my progress.  I figured that this long weekend was going to be the
    one to test fly my MONK.....but it wasn't to be.
    
    	First thing my brother and I did was to get his plane airborne.
    He had a very good flight and on his first wheels down landing attempt
    came in kind of hard and did a slight cartwheel (no damage).  I took
    it up for a flight to get the bugs out of my system and landed with
    no problems.  
    
    	I then decided it was time to fire up the MONK.  Unfortunately
    I didn't have a battery for the starter or jumper cables so we used
    the NI-Starter and a chicken stick.  The OS.90 was being a pain
    in the butt.  Once started, I tried adjusting the high end, but
    the engine would cut out.  This went on for 1/2 an hour until it
    happened.......  As I was adjusting the needle again, the prop decided
    it was time for a flight and took off on its own.  I found the prop
    and the prop nut, but we lost the prop washer in the tall grass.
    That put an end to the test flight.  Now I have to buy a nut and
    make another attempt SOON!

    
    	Hi Carl!
    
    		Sorry, no updates.  Haven't touch it since I through
    the prop washer.
    		How bout you?  Been flyin the MONK lately?
    
    	Ken

    
    	Well, I finally got back to the workbench.  Saturday I spent
    the whole rainy day working on the MONK.  I replaced the metal
    wing bolts with 1/4" nylon bolts, glued in those plastic wing
    panels on the bottom of the wing, got the candy stiping on the 
    wing done and started on the fin.  I've got the blue strip on 
    the front of the fin done too.  I haven't attached the canopy
    yet because I'n not sure what to use to do it.  I don't have any
    RC56 and to be honest, I haven't called the local shops to find
    out if they have any.
    
    	You're right Carl, the plane looks like a beauty with the 
    candy striping on it.  I don't have the decals on yet, but it
    definetly looks pretty.
    
    	So, have you been flying yours?
    
    
    Ken

    Carl,
    	It seems to me that you are avoiding the question........
    
    		Are you flying your MONK?
    
    	I want to know what to look out for from your experiences.
    
    	Come on, out with it!  
    
    Ken

    
    
    	Ken
    
    		In answer to that question......" YES !!!!! " I've had
    a short siesta from flying (about 4 wks) but am back up in the air
    and if you look up you'll see a candy striped Wonder flying around
    every now and then . All of my hands on time anymore is on the Stik
    ( I finally brought it on the pipe and boy what a machin..xx , I
    mean " Animal " ) and the "Monk" with flying time divided at about
    70% and 30% . The reason for this is due to being still a little
    gun shy with the "Monk" , but that is fading with every flight .
    It's amazing how instinct will give you the tendancy to be cautious
    with something you built . But an ARF or similar you can wind up getting
    crazy with with nerves of steel and not care as much about that
    big mistake if it happens . Enough of me babbling on and on .
    But , YES !! we are still flying it and have to say its a bird to
    be proud of !!! I will be awaiting your report on your "Debut" flight.
    
    
    	Keep those updates coming !
    
    		Carl
    

A member of the Derry Flying Tigers has a Monk.  I have absolutly no 
regrets in choosing it as my next plane after seeing it do its stuff.
And, by all means, build it with flaps.  It almost hovers on slow 
approachs.

I asked him for any hints or suggestions he may have.  He had two: Beef 
up the landing gear mounts and increase the size of the aileron 
linkages.  The landing gear suggestion speaks for itself.  The aileron
linkage requires some comment.  He has observed considerable flutter in 
the ailerons at high speeds and he believes the linkages are to blame.  
I intend to follow his recommendatation.

Status - Going slowly.  The basic wing is done.  The control surfaces 
are still in a pile on my desk.  I'm not really happy the way they came 
out so I may redo them.  I don't expect to make any real progress until 
the weather turns.  I now have the engine (OS 61 with pump) and the 
radio (Airtronics Vanguard 6 Ch. PCM).  I'm in no big hurry.  I need a 
lot more time on the trainer.

Keep the status, hints, and comments coming.

Loren

    Thanks for the input Loren.  I'll have to wait and see how my ailerons
    respond since the MONK is just about ready to fly.  I already beefed
    up the landing gear blocks which definetly needed it!
    
    Patience is a virtue and could spare repair.....
    
    Ken

    Well, have any of you MONKS out there been flying?  Its been a long
    time since Carl reported on his maiden flight, Loren hasn't reported
    his building process, and I haven't made my maiden flight yet.  What
    gives guys?
    
    Looks like this could be the week my MONK goes UP!  Will keep you
    informed.
    
    Ken

I've made very little progress on the monk since my last report, which 
may have been last May or so.  I'm  still on the wing and completed the
cutout for one of the flaps about 2 weeks ago.  Now that the weather has 
turned sour I expect some more time on it.

Actually, I'm getting a little concerned that I may not be ready for it 
when I do get it done.  I passed my flight test several weeks ago and I 
am comfortable with the Eagle 2, most of the time.  However, the monk is 
a little more of a performer, if you know what I mean.  I've been toying 
with the idea of an intermediate trainer.  Something along the lines of 
a tail dragger, symetrical high wing.  What'ya think.  And, if that were 
a good idea, any suggestions on one that might fit the bill?

Loren

    Don't fly the monk until you can fly the SH*T out of your Eagle 2. This
    means inverted flight, rolls, quick turns left, and right and so on.
    Unless you feel really confortable with the eagle 2, your going to be
    in for a big surprise for the first 10-20 flights or so. 
    
    
    							Dave
    

    Loren,
    		By all means get comfortable with other aircraft.  As
    Dave put it, practice until you feel you need more of a challenge.
    Don't take chances with the MONK.  
    
    Ken

    
    Loren ,
    		I "third" the motion ! Definitely make sure you feel
    courageous with your trainer before attempting a maiden voyage with
    the "MONK" . I went from a Sig Kadet to a Piper Cub to a low wing
    Cherokee to a high performance .60 Stik before my maiden voyage
    and was still "shakey" at best . But the Cherokee gave me the
    experience of handling a low wing plane while the .60 Stik with
    tuned pipe gave me a chance to buils up skills for hig speeds
    (exceeding 100++ mph) and for aerobatics at higher speeds . Each
    plane had it's own characteristics that helped in rounding out your
    skills . If at all possible , go to at least a high wing performer
    or a low wing trainer (EG. "Skytiger") before the maiden voyage.
                                                                    
    	Carl
    

Well, I thought I'd give a little construction status.  Wing 
construction is for the most part done.  All the servo's mounted and the 
control surfaces are ready.  Just needs to be sanded, something I don't 
really look forward to.

Basic fuse is done and I just mounted the rounded formers.  I took an 
eariler suggestion to replace the wing bolts.  I installed the mounting 
blocks as the plans showed and put the Dubro mounting blocks right behind 
them.  I then went wild with the epoxy.  They are not going anywhere.  
However, is that little piece of 1/4" dowel rod on the front of the wing
really strong enough to keep things together?

Did any of you tint the canopy or did you leave it clear?

I've  decided to mount the engine sideways as opposed to inverted.  I've 
listened to all the pros and cons thoughout the conference and 
determined I would be happier with the fewer hassles of side mounting 
rather than the realism.  The only problem I will encounter is that the 
mounting bracket interfers with my PITTs muffler.  As I see it, I have two 
choices; somehow come up with a small extension piece that goes between
the muffler and the engine and give the muffler some clearence, or, take
the ole Dremel and carve away me some mounting bracket.  It would not 
take too much carving but I assume there is some risk that it would weaken 
the bracket some.  Any thoughts here?

I also have not ignored the advice regarding my ability to fly the MONK. 
I'll admit it, I'm not ready.  There, I feel better.  My plan is to 
finish the monk to some, almost flyable, condition.  I'm now dropping 
hints to wifey for a XMAS present.  Carl suggested the CG Skytiger.  
Lets see, semi symetrical wing, construction similar to the Eagle 2, 
about $60 at Bill's Hobby in Salem, somewhat less in Tower.  I like it.  
Would you suggest I put my 40SF or my 60SF in it?  Any other suggestions 
on a good intermediate vechicle?

Monk - Pretty plane, a little tougher to build.

Loren

    Alright Loren!  Glad to hear you are making progress on the MONK.
    
    Although the MONK has only one dowel centered on the leading edge
    of the wing, I feel it is strong enough to withstand the forces
    which will be acting upon it.  I wouldn't be too concerned.  By
    replacing the stock wing bolts, you have much more holding power.
    Did you use the 1/4" bolts?  I think I've got 5/16" but I can't
    recall exactly.  Hopefully they will shearer off if the need arises.
    
    As far as mounting your engine, I lost you when you talked about
    having to carve away some of the mounting bracket.  What mounting
    bracket?  Are you talking about the engine mount (the black ones)?
    What size engine are you using?
    
    How are you attaching the canopy?  RC56 glue?  I still don't have
    mine on the plane yet.  I figured for its test flight I would leave
    the canopy, cowl and wheel pants off....just in case!  I've been
    pondering the idea of using VELCRO to seat the canopy, but I haven't
    conducted any test with it yet.  I might even try to seat the cowl
    that way.  I hate the sight of screws.  Anyways, good luck with your
    MONK and keep the reports coming.
    
    Ken

>    As far as mounting your engine, I lost you when you talked about
>    having to carve away some of the mounting bracket.  What mounting
>    bracket?  Are you talking about the engine mount (the black ones)?
>    What size engine are you using?
 
I meant to say the engine mounts.  The engine is a O.S. 60SF with pump.  
The engine should go in fine.  What I have is just a little interference 
with the muffler.  I think I'm going to do a little checking around and 
see if I can get a spacer made.  Carving a structure that will be 
subject to some high forces does make me a little nervous.
   
>    How are you attaching the canopy?  RC56 glue?  I still don't have
>    mine on the plane yet.  I figured for its test flight I would leave
>    the canopy, cowl and wheel pants off....just in case!  I've been
>    pondering the idea of using VELCRO to seat the canopy, but I haven't
>    conducted any test with it yet.  I might even try to seat the cowl
>    that way.  I hate the sight of screws.  Anyways, good luck with your
>    MONK and keep the reports coming.
    
Right now I'm planning to use the RC56 clue.  My concern with velco 
would be that you would not get a tight seal and you could possibly get 
some strange effects with wind whipping around it in flight.  And as 
much as I like velco (I use to hold my batteries and receivers in place) 
I'm not comfortable enough to do the same with the canopy.  I also plan 
to use machine screws and those funny self retaining wood nuts (like the 
ones used to hold the engine mounts in place) to attach the cowl.  I 
figure if I'm going to carve it out for the engine, a few screw holes 
won't matter.

Loren

    Loren,
    
    Grinding away a bit of the aluminum beam is perfectly acceptable
    procedure as long as you don't get carried away.  I had to do exactly
    the same thing to clearance the header from my inverted O.S. .60 FSR
    upwards to connect with the scale exhaust system on the MiG-3.  I went
    about 3/32" deep in the center of the cutout, tapering back to the
    original level on both sides of center.  I'd recommend that you do
    similarly, keeping any cut radiused, avoiding any sharp corners as
    these are most likely to initiate a crack in the mount.  I've tried to
    illustrate this below.
    
    Personally, I'd avoid drilling into the beams (tranverse to the engine
    mounting bolts) as yer' just creating another weak place in the mount.
    Also, I wouldn't want my cowl mounted directly/tightly to the source of
    worst vibration in the entire plane...I guarantee you'll have lots'a
    trouble with cracking of the ABS plastic and wallowing out of the screw
    holes.  Isolate the cowl mount at least a little by mounting hardwood
    blocks or equivalent to the firewall and attaching the cowl to these via
    #4 or #6 wood screws.
    ________________________________________________________________
    
         CUT LIKE THIS                   _NOT_ LIKE THIS!
             .  .                          ____________
          .        .                       |          |
    ____.            ._____________________|          |_____________
                          
      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

Boy, this is hard to do without a white board.  Always needed my visual 
aids to descibe a problem.

Al,  the engine mounts supplied with the kit are fiber (glass I think 
but can't tell'ya for sure without the book in front of me).  As I said,
I don't think I would have to carve much.

The cowl does not attach to the engine mounts but to the fuse.  What
I could do is put rubber gromets between the cowl and the fuse.  That 
should take care of most of the vibration.

Another question.  There has been some discussion in this note regarding 
using the Dubro quick filler.  Again, in my search for a hassle free 
life, I had planned to use this method.  Now, With the tank inside the 
fuse, and the fuel lines hidden by the cowl, how does one know when the 
fuel tank is full while fueling?

Loren

    Loren,
    
    OK, sounds like what yer' considering will work alright.  The mount is
    probably a glass filled epoxy composite like the old Kraft-Hayes mounts
    but I think the same precautions regarding smoothly radiusing any
    cutouts/avoiding any sharp corners still apply.
    
    I've used the super-fueler devices with total success for the past 6-8
    years.  The old DuBro fueler on the Yeller' Peril has survived 8-years
    and virtually hundreds of flights, mostly in the dirt, with absolute
    reliability.  I don't mean to argue with those who've experienced
    problems with these devices but I, _personally_ have had no problems
    and do not hesitate to recommend them.
    
    As to how you know when the tank is full, you must provide an overflow
    line from the vent-tube in the tank.  When fuel runs out the overflow,
    the tank is full.  This line can be left open but, if muffler-pressure
    is being used, it must be plugged off with a pop-rivet, a screw or
    whatever after fueling is completed.  Comprende, amigo?  If not, give a
    holler and we'll take another shot at it.......  

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

    I too am using the Dubro Kwik Fill Valve.  It works slick-as-snot.
    I am not using backpressure from the muffler (since I am not using
    a muffler) so that line hangs down.  When I fule up I simply attach
    the Kwik Connect to the Kwik Fueler and attach a return line from
    my fuel can to the vent tube line.  This way if I happen to ignore
    the fact that my tank is full the fuel simply returns to the can
    so there is no lose of fuel.
    
    By the way Loren, this is where I have my fuel lines coming out
    of the plane;
    
                           ---------------------------------
                                                           |
                                                           | <-- firewall
                                                           |
                                                           |
                                                          /
                                                         /  <-- slanted
                                           fuel lines   /         section
                                           exit thru   x
                                           this part. /
                                                     /
                    ---------------------------------
    
    By passing the fuel lines through the slanted part of the fuse I
    don't have more holes in my firewall and I can access the whole
    fuel tank by simply removing that front (slanted) plate.  I have
    extra fuel line so I can pull out more if I need too.  If you look
    under the cowl you can see it hanging there.        
    
    The one thing I did learn, was you don't plug the vent line!  The
    engine doesn't like that.
    
    Ken

    Ken,
    
    How very true: DO NOT plug the vent/overflow line unless yer' using
    muffler (or other) pressure.  If the engine was strong enough (which it
    isn't), it'd suck the sides in and collapse the tank.  What _does_
    happen is the engine cannot draw fuel, period!    

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

    That's exactly what happened!  Couldn't figure out for the life
    of me why my great running OS.90 wouldn't run very long.  I ended 
    up throwing the prop.  Now I know better......
    
    Ken

    Well, I tried unsuccessfully to fly the MONK on Saturday.  Still
    can't get that OS.90 to run.  Can't understand it since it ran so
    perfect last winter.  Guess I'll have to take it off the MONK and
    bench test it by the book.  It was a perfect day too.  Sunny, no
    wind and about 14 degrees (but with sun and no wind its not bad).
    
    Hoping to try again this Saturday.  Will keep you posted.
    
    Ken

    Hello All,
    
    I'm new to this notes file.  For Christmas my wife gave me a wonderful
    gift.  The Goldberg Super Chipmunk with a brand new OS .91 four stroke
    Surpass.......what a great christmas.  Building it was stright forward
    enough but I do wonder why the engine mounts or as weak as they are.
    Has anyone had any problems with the mounts?
    
    The engine pulls lilke crazy.  I'm getting about 9100 rpms with a 
    14-8 prop.  Should pull the dickens out of the munk.  I'll find out
    tomorrow if the wind stays down below 20 mph.
    
    TTFN
    
    John C. from Colorado Springs
    

    John,
    	Welcome to the monastery!  Did you say you got the MONK for
    Christmas, and it is already for the maiden flight?  I know the
    plans were straight forward but thats some fast building.
    
    	The .91 is definetly going to pull the MONK.  You won't have
    to look for extra power when you need it.
    
    	As far as the motor mounts, what do you mean by "weak"?  
    Granted, I would prefer a one piece mount, but at least you don't
    have to worry about fitting any size engine to it.  Once assembled
    it seems to be solid.
    
    	Once again welcome to the monastery and good luck on the maiden
    flight.  I'm still grounded due to my OS.90 not running right.
    
    	Keep us posted!
    
    
    Ken

    Thanks for the welcome.  Yeah it was some fast building but considering
    the wife was on vacation from Christmas to New Years, I got lots of 
    time to build.  It actually took about 50-60 hours to complete.
    
    Now for the good stuff.  I wasn't sure I was going to be able fly.
    The engine wouldn't idle, running way too rich due to the altitude.
    It would run from mid range to full throttle just fine.  So I had
    a helper carry it out to the runway, said my prayers, then went for
    it.  Takeoff was smooth and very predictable.  Did a gradual climb
    with a slight turn.  Trimming was a snap, actually a click or two.
    I was amazed at how close they were, the most was three clicks on the
    rudder.  By this time I was shaking (from the rush) so bad I had a hard
    time standing.  Landing was going to be tricky and I knew it.  I knew
    that the engine would die as soon as it richened up at idle.  So I got
    lined up and killed it.  The glide was straight and smooth---Oh Sh*t--	
    I forgot to take off the wheel pants....too late now...
    Anyway continued on in.......perfect two point landing on the mains...
    coasted to a stop at the end of the runway just short of the taxiway.
    PANT! PANT!  I was so happy, I couldn't have asked for a better
    landing.  I wanted to go up again but better judgement said no get the 
    engine running right.  That was Sundays chore and that went without
    any problems.  Can't wait until the next halfway decent day.
    
    Again thanks for the welcome and that's my story for now.
    
    John C.

    Hi me again.  Forgot to answer the comment about the mounts.  They
    seem weaker than ones I've used in the past.  Maybe it's because they
    are nylon instead of fiberglass or aluminum.  They seem to be holding
    just fine.
    
    By the way Ken, can I ask what wrong with your OS .90?
    
    John C.
    

    John,
    
    C  O  N  G  R  A  T  U  L  A  T  I  O  N  S  !!!  (And welcome to scale
    airplanes...it's sure a lot more fun to fly something that resembles a
    full-scale bird!)    

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

    My MUNK took its maiden voyage this past Saturday!!!  You guys weren't
    joking when you said it flies great.  I couldn't believe my eyes and
    fingers.
    
    A recap;
    
    Got up at 8:30 and did a few last minute adjustments (ie. pack the
    receiver, glue in some supports, ajust the flaps...).  By 10:00 I
    was ready.  I headed down to the bay and met my two younger brothers
    who were also going to fly their maiden voyages (an Eagle 2 and
    a GEE BEE SEAHAWK).  Too our disgust, the wind was blowing at about
    16mph with larger gusts.  I got the MUNK running anyways and commenced
    to drive it around on the ice.  The wind, however would catch the
    large tail section and whip it back and forth.  So I called it quits.
    
    We went up to my folks house and talked for awhile before heading
    home.  In the mean time, Brian Noyes showed up with his Eagle 63.
    We chatted awhile longer.  My brother Steve then noticed that the
    wind had subsided "some".  So we got brave and got all the gear
    back out.  I got around to firing up the MUNK and with Brians help
    started taxiing around the ice.  I finally said to heck with farting
    around and set it up for takeoff.  I punched the throttle and away
    it went....nice roll out.  I watched the tail lift and applied a bit
    of elevator.  The MUNK lifted in almost a perfect line and climbed
    out without a hitch.  My nerves weren't  TOO bad, but I noticed
    I still had my bulky gloves on.  Quickly I pulled them off so I
    could trim out.  The OS.90 sounded great!  
    
    I couldn't believe how nice it flew!!!  It responded great!  After
    a few passes to get the nerves calmed down I decided to check out
    the flaps.  I was fying at half throttle and lowered the flaps...
    the plane instantly jumped!  I cut the flaps and flew a few more
    laps to calm down.  Finally I decided to land.  I called out a landing
    and commenced to set up.  I brought the throttle back to an idle
    on the down leg, as the plane slowed down I again applied the flaps....
    what a difference!  The plane nosed up just a tad and started to
    settle down.  I got scared at one point because the thing looked
    like it was about to stall (it was almost hovering).  But it kept
    coming down and touched the ice without even a bounce!  I couldn't
    believe it!!!
    
    So my MUNK is not a virgin anymore.  I can't wait to start doing
    stunts.  It flies so nice.........
    
    
    
    Ken
    
    

    John,
    		The color scheme is almost identical to the picture.
    Carl suggested getting the darker colors, which I did, and it looks
    great.  The only difference is the flaps and ailerons are all red
    instead of striped.  I like the way it pronounces the trailing edge
    as does the blue on the leading edge.  Also, I left the end caps
    white.  It really is a pretty plane.
    
    		As far as what would happen to the plane if flaps were
    used during stunts.......I have no idea.  All I know is that when
    I dropped them at 1/2 throttle, the plane jolted upwards.
    
    		All this talk is getting me excited about flying it
    again.  Hope you can get yours back in the air soon.
    
    
    Ken

    Well, Friday I spent another 7 hours working on the MUNK.  I finished
    dressing up the tail and applying all the decals on the fuse. I also
    made up some leggings for the gear struts and covered them in white
    to match the wheel pants.  
    
    This plane looks FANTASTIC!!!  I am using Velcro to hold the cowling
    in place....seems to work well.  The seating is a bit higher due to
    the thickness of the velcro, but it doesn't take anything away as far
    as looks goes.  I picked up some paint to spray the cowling and that
    will finish off the front end.
    
    I also tried to velcro the canaopy down.  That didn't work as well.
    The seating gap is too large.  I really don't want to permanently
    afix it, but I guess I'll have to.
    
    I tried to fly Saturday, but the calm winds didn't stay calm and
    the temps were in the single numbers.  Maybe this week!
    
    Ken

    Well this weekend was the greatest for flying.  Almost zero wind.
    Got to put the munk threw some testing.  I wanted to find out how far
    verticly it would climb.  Fantastic!!!!!  Starting at about 50' at full
    throttle it would climb and climb.  It would finally slow to a stall at
    about 400'.  I kid you not.  I was amazed.  Snap spins are very quick.
    Knife-edge takes alittle work (on my part).  Can't wait to practice
    more stunts.
    
    T.T.F.N.
    
    John C.

    John, glad to hear you are having good luck with the MUNK!  Are
    the rolls nice and smooth?  Whats the problem with the knive edges?
    Have you tried inverted flights? 
    
    I'm going to attempt a flight this weekend if the weather holds
    up.
    
    Ken

    Ken,
    
    Rolls are smooth and alittle on the slow side.  Inverted is as
    predictable as flying right side up.  Two problems with the knife-edge
    #1 operator errors--starting it totally level instead of alittle nose
    high. #2 plane not traveling fast enough to hold nose up.  This one I
    may have corrected.  I switched to a 14-8 prop may have to go to a
    14-10 but we'll see.  I don't want to sacrifice verticle performance to
    get better knife-edge.  I like watching that thing climb, it looks so
    real.  Got any ideas on how to keep the screws on the cowling from
    coming loose?  I've tried lock-tite, ca glue, and epoxy.  All seem to
    come loose.  I'd rather not go to a bolt and nut assembly.
    
    Not much else.
    
    John

    
    	John, 
    		I haven't had any problems with my cowling screws in
    	the several flights I've had. Did you use hardwood for the
    	screws to dig into? Are you using all four screws? How and
    	where are they positioned? Did you balance prop statically
    	and dynamically, along with the spinner? Sure sounds like a
    	lot of questions, huh ?
    
    
    		Monks Forever ,
    
    			Carl

2-56 bolts are available with (teeny-tiny) blindnuts and would be the same
approximate size as small screws. This gives you a nice positive lock (and you 
can use washers and lock washers too) without having to worry about holding the
nut on the inside.

    John,
    	   I have my cowling held on by velcro straps.  It holds real
    well.  I have to pass a long slim screwdriver between the velcro
    in order to remove the cowling....slick as snot.  This way I don't
    have ugly screws showing.  I too had the same problem with the
    screws the first time I tried bolting down the cowling.  There is
    no meat in balsa sheeting.
    
    	    I am using a 13-6 prop and that seems to put out beaucoup
    pulling power.  I haven't trien vertical climbs yet to see how far
    it'll go, but I will.  It took my 6' PINK MONSTER up like a bat
    out of hell.  The MUNK is a bit heavier but I think it'll go.
    If the slow rolls look like victory rolls, then I can't wait to
    do them.  Well enough for now, I'm getting the itch to fire her
    up.
    
    Ken

    I've got the screws going into the plywood.  Same technique I've used
    on other planes with no problems.  May try the blind nuts if it remains
    a problem.  Can't go with the velcro due to clearance, although I may
    be able to modify it enough to work.
    
    Question: Does it take a smaller pitch and diameter prop to do the same
    task at low altitudes than at high altitudes?  My wording was poor,
    sorry.  What I mean is at low altitudes 0-1000' air is thicker and you
    might loose rpm's more than at say 7200'?  I've tried the recommended
    prop sizes for a given engine size and I almost always go with a
    greater pitch.  Just to get the most rpm's and "pull".  Just a curious
    question.
    
    John

    
    	John,
    		I'm not sure, but just to guess, I don't think we
    	would have to worry about pitch at different altitudes since
    	verry few model aircraft fly above 1000' . If memory serves
    	me right, there's a 400' ceiling on AMA sanctioned meets so
    	altitude per pitch of prop should not be a factor. As far as
    	scale aircraft go, I would say yes it is a factor since many
    	full size aircraft have adjustable pitch props. 
    
    		On your cowl, I was wondering if you backed up the
    	screws with hardwood. There are openings on each side near the
    	bottom rear of the cowl for air passage. I wound up gluing
    	two 1/4" thick by 1/2" wide scrap pieces of hardwood to the
    	fuse in these openings to give the screws more bite. As far
    	cooling goes, most of the air exits around the muffler area
    	on mine so a small blockage with wood on these sides doesn't
    	hurt. Without them, that 1/4" of exposed screw worked itself
    	loose. Sound familar.
    
    		Good luck,
    
    			Carl
    
    	PS: Ken, how the he@#% are ya ??? Long time no hear !!!

    
        John,
    	   Is your engine totally enclosed by the cowling?  Carl
    	apparently has his side mounted with a hole cut out the 
        side.  Mine is inverted with a hole cut out of the round
        underside of the cowling.  I need to have my vents open
    	to allow the heat a way out.
    	   The velcro does lift the cowling about 1/16".  It fits
    	my setup just fine.  I did have to put screws into the 
    	velcro because I glued it to the monocote and it doesn't
    	take much pulling to get it free.  I might have to put in
    	a screw towards the front to stop some vibration, but I
    	havenn't run the engine up since I mounted the cowling.
    	    What I'm attempting to do know is to hook up landing
    	lights!  I wanted to mount the light beneath the prop,
    	but my engine is in the way.  I need another location.
    
    	Carl, what do you mean "long time no hear"......?  I've
    	been yacking away ever since I got the MUNK in the air!
    	From the sounds of it, you've been flying yours.  What
    	gives?  How about some stories!  Good and bad!  Let's
    	hear it bud......
    
    
    	Ken

RE -.2

Carl,

John C. has made a mistake that I have also made when asking performance
questions. While you're absolutely correct that most models don't fly much
over 1000' HAG, both John and I fly from the PPRC (Pikes Peak RC) Club field
and start with a base altitude of 7200'. The question is really, "Should one
run a higher pitch prop here in Colorado Springs to achieve performance similar
to what the sea-level flyers get?"

My reply is that conventional wisdom says, "Yes you should add a little pitch."
My own mentation on the problem says:

	1. There is less air for the prop to bite so an engine of a given
	   displacement should be able to turn a higher pitch prop at or near
	   the same speed at 7200' as it would a smaller prop at sea level and 
	   give you similar performance.

	2. BUT, there is less air for the engine to breathe, thereby reducing 
	   its overall performance and its ability to turn the larger prop.

	3. 1 and 2 cancel each other out. What you're left with is no gain.
	   If you want performance equal to what you get at sea level when 
	   starting at 7200' you gotta get a bigger engine.

Limited experimentation bears this out, but I haven't done a rigorous test.
Your milage may vary,

Randy

    	>Carl apparently has his side mounted with a hole cut out
        >in the side.  
    

		Ken, I may not have explained it very well . My 
	engine is inverted, and I do have a hole cut out in the
	front for the carb and the cylinder head, but what I 
	meant was that reinforcing the area where the gap is on
	the lower rear sides of the cowling made the cowl fit 
	flush against the wood blocks allowing the screws here
	to be tightened. Without these supports, you would have
	to turn the screws in until they started to "dimple" 
	the sides of the cowl, then back them out so they would
	remain flush. This would leave the screws subject to 
	vibration, and a greater chance of them backing out.

	
		As far as air cooling goes, I have the vents that
	were formed in front of the cowl, the hole for the carb,
	and the hole for the cylinder head for intakes. For the
	"escape route" I use both the side exits (air can still
	exit here as only 1/2 " of this gap is blocked by the
	supports) and a rather large exit hole in the bottom rear
	of the cowl where my "scale" exhaust exits. There's
	plenty of room for air to exit here.

     
    	>Carl, what do you mean "long time no hear"......?  I've
    	>been yacking away ever since I got the MUNK in the air!
    	>From the sounds of it, you've been flying yours.  What
    	>gives?  How about some stories!  Good and bad!  Let's
    	>hear it bud......
    

		Lonnnnng winded cuss, ain't I. Can't help it,
	this hobby is habit forming and lotsa jabber'in become
	tools of the trade. I haven't been paying too much 
	attention to the notes file as I have to earn those
	pennys to keep me in planes (and the wife in her toys
	too)! But now it's a little slow so we're playing 
	catch up with all the entries in both notes files .
	We've only been flying once so far this new year, 
	primarily due to muddy, mucky, slippin, slidin to wet
	to freeze runways. "But", this weekend, if this sunshine
	holds out, we'll be out! No good stories on the monk
	as it has been playing 'hanger queen' because of the
	weather. We just recently moved also, and the left top
	side of the elevator recieved some hanger rash; got
	about a 1 1/2" cut in the monokote, so some repairs
	are due, hopefully this weekend. Just finished an ARF
	Christian Eagle that I got from the wife as a wedding
	gift last year, so it too will be going to the field
	with the monk.
	
  
>DIENTE::OSWALD "Randy Oswald" 
>Carl,
    
>John C. has made a mistake that I have also made when asking performance
>questions. While you're absolutely correct that most models don't fly much
>over 1000' HAG, both John and I fly from the PPRC (Pikes Peak RC) Club field
>and start with a base altitude of 7200'. The question is really, "Should one
>run a higher pitch prop here in Colorado Springs to achieve performance similar
>to what the sea-level flyers get?"


 
		Ooooooooops, guess who forgot about other 'high
	altidude locations??? Thanks for the memory jog Randy! 

    Thanks Randy!  I knew there had to be a reason why I always over power
    my planes.  Did ya know that OS has a super charged 4 stroke 120?
    Wonder what it would do in the Chipmunk?  It is supposed to put out
    30-40% more power than the OS 120 4s.
    
    Randy have you been out flying lately?  Have you received your 1990
    button yet?
    
    John

    Fellow MONKS!
    
    	For the sake of those who feel the calling to become MONKS,
    let us partake in the discussion of intricate details that could
    cause a new brother to stumble.
    
    ie. Engine, Cowling, amd Canopy installation.
    
    Engine Installation a la Ken;
    
    	The size and style engine you choose for your MUNK will determine
    the various ways in which to mount it.  Depending upon how you want
    the plane to look is also going to be a factor.
    	
    	I have an OS.90FS in mine.  The carb set up on this engine made
    side mounting a problem.  I would have to carve a BIG hole in the
    cowling to accomadate the engine plus the head would be sticking
    out the side like a sore thumb.  That left me with either right side
    up or inverted.  Right side up woul also leave a giant hole in the
    cowl and would take the look of reality away from the plane.  This
    left me with the inverted method.
    
    	To mount the inverted engine I had to raise the mounts higher
    (this is shown in the plans).  Because of the length of the head
    I had to open the front of the cowling so it wouldn't rest against
    the HOT engine and melt.  The opening is about 1 1/2" x 2 1/2" and
    actually looks good.  The cooling fins of the engine adds a great
    deal of reality to the plane in static mode.  This also helps in
    the cooling process since 80% of the head is exposed.  The trouble
    here came with mounting the muffler.  I could not get the correct
    angle of the muffler to exit the bottom of the plane.  If I left
    the stock muffler on, the cowling wouldn't fit.  So I decided to
    use the curved pipe that comes with the engine and attach it to
    the 45 degree header pipe coming off the engine.  They are not 
    supposed to go together, but with a little ingenuity you can do
    it.  The nut on the curved pipe is used to grip about 2-3 threads
    of the header pipe.  Tightened with a wrench and safety wired in
    case vibration is too much for it. (It hasn't been tested yet)
    This allows the cowling to fit right over the everything without
    having to cut any holes in the sides.  From either side view you
    can't see the engine.  Looks very real indeed.
    
    Cowling installation a la Ken;
    
    	The cowling was yet another headache (at least for awhile).
    I tried the book method of screwing it down, but the screws just
    wouldn't hold in the balsa (you have to hit the ply).  I also didn't
    like the looks of the screws, so I thought I would try using VELCRO!
    I purchased the 3/4" strips and glued them to the inside of the
    cowling on both sides of the center seam (don't go over the seam
    because it makes the cowling sit to high).  After careful measurement
    I then glued a strip on the nose of the plane from one red edge to
    the other.  Since it was a trial run, I didn't remove the monocote
    before I glued, so I ended up putting in three flat head screws.  It
    seems to hold good so far (I removed the cowling 6-7 times already).
    I then glued a 1" piece on either side of the cowling just above
    the curve of the side exits.  Again I measured and glued 1" pieces
    to accomodate its counter part.  All I have to do now is place the
    cowling in place and press the velcro'd areas and presto it seats
    solidly.  My only concern at this point is the front of the cowling.
    I don't know if I'll need to add another piece of velcro to the fuse
    just above the firewall to keep the front of the cowl from moving.
    This set up is expiremental and has not been flight tested yet.  As
    soon as it is I will give a full report.
    
    Canopy installation a la Ken;
    
    	This is where I need help!  Mine still isn't on.  The velcro
    does not allow the canopy to seat flush with the fuse.  Any and
    all ideas are welcome.
    
    
    
    
    Thats it!
    Ken

    Ken,
    
    Ya got some great ideas on mounting the cowling.  I didn't worry to
    much about looking absolutley real so I side mounted my OS.91.
    Side mounting is allowing me to adjust the idle mixture screw without
    removing the cowling.  The thing that puzzles me about my screws (lose) 
    is that they are going into ply, and they still came loose.  Your
    velcro idea is starting to sound very appealing.
    
    My canopy is mounted with RC56.  Stuff dries virtually clear.  I just
    ran a bead on the canopy then used pins to hold till the glue sets.
    Looks great and is paintable.
    
    Another 'munkers' opinion.
    
    John

    Okay MONKS listen to this!
    
    Saturday I COMPLETED THE MUNK!  Thats right.....DONE!
    
    After painting the cowling all I left to do was put the decals on
    it and figure out how to put the canopy on.  Well get this.... my
    daughter gave me an old Barbie doll, so just for kicks I tried to
    fit her in the cockpit.....she was to big.  I then transformed my-
    self into a surgeon and commenced the operation.  I popped her apart
    at the waist and tried a refit.  Still to tall.  I then cut a hole
    in the seat so she would sit on the turtle deck (?)...perfect.  I
    then screwed an eye bolt into the deck and mounted Barbie onto it.
    She was wearing a split back shirt, so I super glued her back to
    the back of the seat, then tucked her shirt in to cover it.  She
    looked funny with no legs, so I test fitted her legs...again too
    long.  Using modern medicine's latest breakthrough in surgical tools,
    I took my hand saw and cut her feet off....still to long.  I then
    cut 1" of her thighs off....perfect fit.  I slipped her pants on
    over her newly designed legs and epoxied her feet to the floor and
    her thighs to the seat.  I pulled her shirt over the thigh connection
    and presto....a pilot.  By the way, her legs are bent at the knees,
    her left hand is waving and her right hand is on the stick........
    Oh yeah, the stick!  Well you can't expect the pilot to fly without
    a stick can you?  I took a 2 1/2" allen wrench and glued it into
    the little molded stick assembly.  Looks authentic.
    
    Now for the good part.  As you know, I've been plagued by the canopy
    installation.  I didn't want to permanently glue the canopy down
    so I thought I would try using silicone caulking.  I went to the
    hardware store to get some and ended up buying this roll of caulking.
    It looks like a ribbon cable.....about 12 beaded strips in all.  I
    figured I could try and caulk the canopy in place.  I seperated
    a strip 2 beads wide and started from the back of the canopy pressing
    the strip onto the edge of the canopy (one bead under and one exposed.)
    I went all the way around until I mated up with the beginning edge. I
    snipped the strip and pressed the edges together.  I then sat the
    canopy on the plane and carefully pressed its edges to flatten the
    bead of caulking underneath.  Then using a flat metal edge of this
    mixing tool I have, I started rolling the exposed piece of caulking
    up over the edge of the canopy working my way around until I matched
    up with my starting point.  I then painted the caulking white and
    let it dry.  The results where FANTASTIC!  I held the entire plane
    up by the canopy and it didn't even budge!  I even flew two flights
    on it yesterday  and it is still in place.  To remove, all I have
    to do is peel the canopy off, and press it back in place when I'm
    ready.  It adheres really good to the monocote. UNBELIEVEABLE!!!!
    
    If this has already been done let me know otherwise I'm going to
    send it into RC modelers as a buliding tip.  It looks so real.
    And best of all, no screwing or gluing.
    
    PS.  The velcro mounted cowling held up great during the two flights
    	I put on the MUNK yesterday.  Maybe I'll send that idea in too.
    
    Ken
                                     

    Well yesterday I put in the second and third test flights on the
    MUNK.  Here's what happened;
    
    #1 - Takeoff was predictable, level flight, tried a roll which 
    	went okay, one loop, numerous fly bys and about 7 aborted
    	landings.  The plane kept floating by me!  With flaps deployed
    	I could not get the darn thing low enough at the right time.
    	I eventually landed it quite aways away from me.
    
    #2 - Engine skipping a bit.  Takeoff was a bit rough, climbout was
    	also a bit shaky....must of hit trim tabs cause it took some
    	trimming to get it level.  Engine died a few minutes into the
    	flight....some how got into a spiral and COULDN'T GET OUT!!!
    	I cried out "I don't have it!"  As I eased up on the elevator
    	the MUNK miraculous pulled out about 25' off the ice.  As it
    	approached me I noticed the engine had indeed died so I dead-
    	sticked it in for a landing and called it quits.  My heart
    	couldn't take it anymore.
    
    After reviewing the film (I always film my flights) I noticed that
    while the plane was spiraling down It wasn't responding to the up
    elevator inputs.  I thought about it for a minute and just maybe
    I was on the ailerons at the same time.  This would have caused
    the spiral and the elevator would never have been useful.  When
    I released the controls, she straightened out.  Whew!
    
    Anyways, the MUNK is in one piece, everything (cowl and canopy)
    stayed on...she looks good...and its home resting.
    
    
    Ken

>                    <<< Note 508.144 by ICICLE::SOUTIERE >>>
>                     -< Canopy installation made simple. >-
...
>    If this has already been done let me know otherwise I'm going to
>    send it into RC modelers as a buliding tip.  It looks so real.

If you do - also send it Model Builder as well as RCM.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
################################################################################
                                     

    
    Has any had trouble with the munk rolling over when full up is applied?
    Whenever I apply full up the plane rolls to the right and will stall if
    maintained.  Controls are solid and their is no radio problems.  The
    only thing I can think of is that the plane is experiencing "elevator
    stall".  I never had a plane do this so it's got me a little puzzled. 
    Oh, turning on dual rates--cutting down the throw---stops the problem. 
    I'm wondering if moving the balance forward abit will stop the problem.
    It flairs so beautifully where it is now and I'd hate to trade flair
    for faster(tighter) loops.
    
    Input---I need input......
    
    John
    

    John,
    	The only things I can think are happening are;
    
    	1.  Since the elevator is a split elevator, maybe one side is
            a bit weak and during full application the weak side lags
            the stronger side creating an "aileron affect".
    
    	2.  Maybe you are giving a little right aileron when you pull
            down on the stick.
    
    I haven't done to many stunts with my MUNK due to nerves, but the
    few loops I've done were just fine.  My biggest problem so far is
    landing with flaps.  I don't have flap/elevator mixing so I try
    to slow down enough when I deploy the flaps so I don't get the rise
    affect.  I haven't manually applied some down elevator to see if
    I could "drive" it down.  More practice is needed, thats all.
    
    Hope you discover your problem.
    
    Ken

    John,
    
    In addition to the thoughts Ken offered, here are a couple more. 
    Elevator stall?  I doubt it; the elevator cannot stall unless the stab
    has a lifting (airfoiled) section and, as memory serves, the Golberg
    'Monk utilizes a flat stab which is common to probably 99% of all
    sport/sport scale model designs.  All the elevator can do is induce a
    _wing_ stall by raising the angle of attack to far but then you'd see
    the ship stall and mush out of the climb and/or snap roll over the top.
    
    The pattern guys (like Tom T.) can give you more finite detail as to
    nose up/nose down tracking changes but some of the causes _can_ be:
    	1. Right rudder trimmed in or lack of left rudder.
    	2. Too much right thrust in engine.
    	3. Ailerons not trimmed correctly.
    	4. Warp in wing.
    And, if the ship is actually stalling:
    	5. Tail heaviness and/or...
    	6. Too much elevator throw.
    
    I wouldn't worry about ruining the ship's flare characteristics by
    moving the CG ahead a bit.  The elevator is a _very_ powerful control
    and can cope with _very_ nose heavy conditions provided it has adequate
    throw.  I've had and seen models that will snaproll simply by applying
    full up elevator.  This is most often tyhe result of a twist in the
    wing or some force arrangement or trimming error.  Bottom line, if it's
    not snapping, at least it's not dangerous as I can think of very few
    instances where you _should_ be applying full up.
    
    I think I'd try moving the CG forward a tad and retrimming.  Then, if
    practical, I'd reduce elevator throw to the point where this behavior
    no longer occurred and you still had adequate throw for a nice landing
    flare.  Let us know how you make out.  

      |
      | |      00	 Adios,      Al
    |_|_|      ( >o
      |    Z__(O_\_	(The Desert Rat)

    As Al has already stated, one of the things to check is the rudder
    trim and vertical stab alignment, keeping in mind that the rudder
    being perfectly lined up with the stab doesn't necessarily equate
    to a trimmed rudder. One of the most common ways of checking rudder 
    trim is to see how the plane tracks through a loop. Falling off to one 
    side or the other usually indicates an out of trim rudder.
    
    Steve

    
    My SS20 has the same problem if I use too much elevator throw.
    I think Al described it best, the elevator causing a wing stall.
    I'd also suggest backing off on elevator throw to a point where
    you just barely have enough to do all the aerobatics you want to
    perform.  Or, use dual rates (I kind of like this approach).  Use
    low rate for normal flight, loops and landings, use high rate for
    stunts that need more throw.
    
    Bill
    

    
    
    Thanks for the input.  I've tried the rudder trim, it had (at the
    extreme opposit) alittle effect on slowing the roll.  From the on set
    trim has only needed two clicks on the ailerons, zero on elevator and
    rudder.  I'll try moving the CG forward abit and let you know what
    happens.  After getting more comfortable with the plane I've been
    flying mostly on high rates (more throw).  Low rate stops the problem.
    
    Again Thanks----I'll keep you informed.
    
    John

    HEY!!! 	What happened to all you MUNK pilots?  Is no one flying?
    
    I put two more flights on my MUNK Wednesday night.  That makes about
    19 flights so far.  I'm getting pretty comfortable with its touchy
    characteristics and love the way it handles.  I just need to relax
    a bit more.
    
    I did my first low inverted fly-by that night.  Of course my idea of
    low was about 50'.  As it was I made the infamous beginners mistake...
    to raise the nose, I pulled back on the stick!  Scared the crap right
    out of me.  Fortunately, I knew better than to continue and quickly
    pushed the stick down, rolled it over, headed UP and took a deep
    breath!    ///// GOT TO LOVE IT!/////
    
    So what's new and exciting with you other MUNKeys?!?
    
    
    Ken

    Hello fellow Munker,
    
    Update time...I've had many flights with the munk...well in excess of a
    hundred.  With each flight I enjoy the munk just that much more.  I've
    had to rebuild the landing blocks once...switched them to solid oak. 
    Seriously doubt they'll break as easy.  Finally got the OS .91 surpass
    running smoothly..it's swinging a 13X10 prop at 11k-11.5k.  It'll pull
    the munk around at a pretty respectable clip.  
    
    I did have a hair raising experince just last weekend.  I was at the
    field on Saturday afternoon.  No one else there, just little ol' me..
    I hate it when that happens.....(Not really)....Wind very calm, almost
    to calm.  Fueled up, took off...after about 10 minutes the wind started
    blowing.  I figured it'll slow down by the time I have to land. 
    WRONG.... it kept getting stronger and stronger...strong enough that
    the wind sock blew away.  Now I can handle some wind  (below 20 mph)
    but this ---as I found out later on the news was blowing 30 with gusts
    of 40+.  I nearly messed my pants.  At this time all I wanted was to
    get the munk down in one piece.  It was a rough landing but it was down
    and with nothing broke.  Guess the aerial gods were with me that day.
    All I could see is big dollar figures crashing to the ground...I
    couldn't stop shaking for almost an hour afterwards.
    
    Other than that most flights have been uneventful.  It's been very
    predictable and will do all aeriel feats if you have the guts to try. 
    With one exception....a rudder loop...ie: knife-edge loop.
    
    Gotta run fer now,  Keep landing on the wheels
    
    John

>    I did have a hair raising experince just last weekend.  I was at the
>    field on Saturday afternoon.  No one else there, just little ol' me..

John - I don't believe we've met.  But when we do I would like to shake
your hand with 10 fingers.  Please don't fly alone.  If you get your
finger in the prop of that OS .91 you may need help to get to the hospital.

Bye        
Kay R. Fisher
Who has a sore finger from an OS FS .91 Surpass & Graupner 3 blade - Sunday.

    GEESH!  John could be the first to put floats/skis on the MUNK.
    
    	A Super "SNOWMUNK"
    
    	A Super "MUNKSKI"
    
    I need a vacation......
    
    
    Ken

    WOW,  did I make a couple of mistakes....wrong Saturday...t'was the one
    before....and I did have my brother who was visting from Atlanta. 
    Didn't think anyone would read that close.  
    
    About the OS.91 prop biting.  Yeah I found out when it was brand new. 
    I was just playing around, flipping the prop, not trying to start it,
    checking the compression if you will.  Whack!!!! Damn that
    hurts!...and that was just playing around.
    
    I definitely agree, NEVER fly alone.
    
    Laters,
    
    John