Conference vmszoo::rc

    Jim,
    
    Good topic!  Let me preface by saying that, like radios, the best
    engine is the one "that works!"  I, personally, have been an O.S.
    man for years...the very first R/C engine I ever bought was an O.S.
    .58 and I liked it so well I bought three of them before the better
    designed line of O.S. .60's came out.  Of these, I've owned Gold-head
    and Black-head .60's, the early FSR .60's (one of these powers my
    1/5.65 scale MiG-3) and, finally, the FSR .61's.  I also run (and
    love) an O.S. .90 and a 1.08.  NEVER have I had the first moment's
    grief with any of these engines and, until persuaded otherwise,
    will run O.S. engines for life...for me, the extra cost is more
    than worth the reliability and performance I've enjoyed over the
    years!
    
    Now, Bob (Frey) is a Super Tigre man and, I must admit, he's gotten
    good service from them in the years we've flown together.  Bob has
    also had fair luck with Webras, though he has shelled-out 3 .90's
    over the years.  (I have two Webra Black-head {non-schneurle} .61's
    I wouldn't trade for the world for sport use.)  Locally, we've seen
    little but grief from the BIG 2000/2500/3000 Super Tigre mills and
    I, personally, wouldn't have one, based on my observations.
    
    K&B has long been considered the leader in .40-size engines but
    I have no personal experience with them (I fly .60 or larger almost
    exclusively).  I do have an OLD K&B/VECO .45 which I used to fly
    in an old DuBro Seabird and it ran like a Swiss watch.  Bob has
    a K&B .60 (no pump) he won at a contest and it's always run like
    gangbusters.  K&B consistently leads the pack in racing events so
    they must be doing "something" right.
    
    Bob and I both had good service from the KRAFT (now RJL) .61 but
    it is pretty expensive nowadays for an engine with 15 year old tech-
    nology. Enya "used" to be an excellent engine but they kinda' fell
    behind when the state-of-the-art made the leap to schneurle-porting.
    I don't know how they're doing with their 2-cycles nowadays but
    their 4-cycles are said to be second to none, especially the 1.20R.
    
    As to the others you mention, I've only seen a few of them run and
    they "seem" OK.  I know that COMO is a "cheapened" Super Tigre in-
    tended for the lower price market.  I've never seen an IRVINE so
    I can't speak to it at all.  My position is that "you get what you
    pay for" and the reduction in purchase price HAS to be made up for
    "somewhere," most likely in the precision and quality control during
    manufacture.  So I figure, if you get less performance, less
    reliability, less longevity, less user friendliness, yer' probably
    getting "what you paid for."  
    
    I've always reasoned that the engine ranks right with the radio
    system as the worst place to try to save a buck...either one can
    cost you LOTS more than the difference in purchase price in lost
    time and expense in the form of lost aircraft.
    
    Adios,	Al

I raise my hat to our "Senior Citizen" 

>    man for years...the very first R/C engine I ever bought was an O.S.
>    .58 and I liked it so well I bought three of them before the better
>    designed line of O.S. .60's came out.  Of these, I've owned Gold-head

I have only read about the OS58 in the history book, did not realize anybody 
still lived who has actually used one.

I agree with you Al, OS are great. I own OS and Rosi engines. The OS is easy to
use and easy to get replacement parts for; an important factor for any
beginner. 

I can buy spares for the OS off the shelf, to get Rosi spares is next to 
impossible on a reliable basis. I had to machine out the case to get 
replacement bearings as they use a non standard size,

Do you get Thunder Tiger is the US. They are pretty much an OS copy. An 
Australian named Gordon Burford assisted them with the design of the 40. I am 
told it's an OK engine.

John.

    
    Well I guess I'll get in on this seeing as I sold two of the engine
    already talked about. I've owned Fox,K&B,Rossi,OPS,HB,HP,Enya,OS
    Saito,COMO,Brat,Thunder Tiger,Supertiger.
    
    Fox  Used to be finiky until the new carb. Look bad but I think
    performance counts not looks. Run good plenty of power. Some odd
    metal combinations but of late they are starting to follow the ABC
    and schenerle(sp) tends within the engine world.
    
    K&B  Good cheap engine for the beginner. Don't run them lean or
    your asking for trouble.
    
    Rossi Great engine in all catagories. .61's have had a poor baring
    history.
    
    OPS If possible greated than Rossi without the problem.
    
    HB Good power,BIG CASES, excellent workmanship
    
    HP Good workmanship 
    
    OS Good all around engines dependable.
    
    Enya, good engine, take longer to break in. not up to OS specs.
    
    Saito 4  OK looks power isn't what it should be.
    
    COMO  Great sport engines just a step below OS but above most others.
    
    Brat. OK workmanship,OK looks, great power.
    
    Thundertiger  You can keep it. Loose, poor power/carb
    
    Supertiger. Good running run of the mill sport engines. OK power
    in their bigger mills.
    
    					Tom

   OK, it would seem that even though some brands have their quality
engines, they have their loosers also.  Some of the smaller sizes work
great but the larger sizes are crap.
  I have been looking at the SuperTigre S75, cost is about $125.00.  If 
the 2000, 3000...series aren't that good, what about the .75?


  Jim

        	G'day

		I would like to say a word in favour of WEBRA engines.
	My 61 speed has given great service in a number of planes. It's
	never quit once during a flight. I must admit the Dynamix carb
	was a pain to set correctly. After 1 bad crash I replaced it with
	a TN carb, not quite a fussy on the adjustment... I'd
	buy another one tomorrow, well I would if my local shop carried
	them. Although the importer's mail order service only take a
	couple of days.


		I would like to say a good word for Supertigres, but 
	can't. I had a 40 ABC in my helicopter for a while. It would
	barely generate enough power to lift it off. When It did it would
	overheat and die on me..... I've since put it back in a plane,
	on a pipe... During the first afternoon's running it snapped
	the con rod... sent it back to The importer, who fitted new
	liner/piston/rod/gudgeon pin... The returned the engine within
	48 hours. I doubt if I will ever buy another Supertigre engine.


		I replaced the supertigre 40 with a Thunder Tiger (magnum)
	40 ABC. This engine was only a few pounds more than it cost
	to have the super tigre repaired.. I't really great, schneurle
	ported and ballraced It flies my helicopter superbly. I had to
	wind in several degrees more pitch to stop the motor overrevving.
	starts easily, and runs like clockwork, never misses a beat. I
	was always ready for the chopper to fall out of the sky before,
	but not now.. I was on the verge of buying a new helicopter, but
	now I'm well satisfied with the one I've got.....
                                                                
		I have a OS 40 4 stroke which is a nice little engine. I
	run it inverted and so far have had no problems.. Obviously
	power is rather limited, but it starts ok, uses very little
	 fuel and sounds GREAT!!!! I think the latest generation
	 OS 40 4 stroke is 40% up on power... The earlier model can 
	be fitted with the new head and cam to bring it almost up 
	to Surpass spec.

		I haven't played with the OS 90 FSR yet, apart from running
	it up on the bench...... Started easily, from a hand flick.. I
	probably won't be flying it for a few months cos it's going
	in the Jungmann
                                         


		cheers

		bob

    Jim,
    
    I have personal knowledge of only two S.T. .75's.  The first always
    started, handled and ran well enough but was a "weak sister" in
    the power department...an "average" .60/.61 could easily have surpassed
    it in power output.  This engine was obtained by a friend in a Royal
    P-51 he purchased at a local club auction so little was known about
    its age or past treatment and history.
    
    The second .75 I know about is the one my buddy, Bob Frey, has in
    his new Holman P-47.  This engine was purchased new, properly broken
    in and runs/handles quite well.  But, since taking it off the bird
    it was broken in on and installing it in the P-47, Bob has experienced
    problems with excessive fuel consumption (see discussion on this
    subject in topic 239).  In fairness, this may not be a problem with
    the engine but, rather, with the installation/fuel system set-up
    and the engine does a fine job otherwise. 
    
    However, you should know that both the S.T. .75 AND the .90 are
    built up on the same Bluehead .60 crankcase, are non-schneurle
    scavenged and can't be expected to compete with other engines in
    the same displacement categories.  I, personally, feel that, except
    for its ability to swing a 13" prop, there's little advantage to
    running an S.T. .75 over a "good" .61 but , then, that's just "my"
    opinion.
    
    Adios,	Al
  

I understand that a Pommy company makes a range of engines called LASER. My
information was that they were top quality hand finished 4 strokes meant for
the engine purist. They are sold direct not through normal retail outlets. 

Any body have one in RC Notes land??.

John.

	G'day John


	Lasers are produced by a guy called Niel Tidey in the UK
	St Albans I think.. They are superb engines, being hand
	finished... The range includes a .45, .61, .75, .90 and 
	120/150 V twins. They are used by an awful lot of the 
	UK's best scale modelers, the .75 particularly....


	Niel Tidey came to out club several months ago and gave a 
	chat about the 4 stroke engine and the design philosophy
	behind the Laser.... The only non Brit part is a Super Tigre
	carb, otherwise it's all produced from bar stock.....In
	spite of all this they are very reasonably priced.. The .90
	being #160, (Enya and OS 90s are around #200).. The V twins 
	are around #270.... As you would expect from a hand produced
	engine they are very powerful, and it's recommended to run
	them on straight fuel. This of course does away with the 
	aftercare needed to prevent corrosion from Nitro... 
	                                                          
        Several people in my club have Lasers, and they are well 
	satisfied...

	A .90 is high on my Christmas list to go in my Jungmann. As
	it happens I sent off for their literature the other day..

	cheers

	bob



	The .90 is high on my Christmas list to put in my Jungmann

    I'VE BEEN LOOKING AT ENGINES FOR THE PAST WEEK
    OR SO AND HAVE SEEN PRETTY MUCH WHAT'S ON THE
    MARKET. I'M LOOKING FOR SOME IMPUT AND PERFORMANCE
    RATINGS ON YOUR FAVORITES??! FROM READING THROUGH
    THIS CONFERENCE, I'VE PICKED UP SCATTERED PROS AND
    CONS ON WHAT YOU GUYS HAVE EXPERIENCED. THE "OS"
    IS KIND OF EXPENSIVE BUT HAS A GOOD TRACK RECORD
    WHERE THE "KB" IS CHEAPER AND FROM WHAT I'VE READ
    HERE, NOT A FAVORITE WITH SOME OF YOU?? WHAT DO
    YOU THINK??
    
    
    		TOM
    

    Tom,
    
    My advice is to adhere to the old adage "ya' gets what ya' pays
    fer!"  The engine is "almost" as bad a place as the radio itself
    to try to save a buck as a balky/unreliable engine can cause you
    to crash almost as certainly as if the radio signed off if it catches
    you in "just" the wrong place.  This is "definitely" undesireable,
    particularly for the beginner who "needs" everything he can possibly
    get going for him.
    
    There's definitely more than one brand of good engines available,
    I happen to be verrry partial to O.S. and am more than willing to
    spring for the extra buck or two for the peace of mind I receive
    from the knowledge that, properly treated/maintained, the engine
    will never let me down.
    
    I have no performance specs to quote, I leave that to the experts
    like Peter Chinn who write performance reviews.  I can make a few
    general performance statements, however:  Anytime I've seen per-
    formance comparisons charted/graphed, O.S. ranks way up towards
    the top with the "really" high-dollar engines like OPS and Rossi.
    I've found them to be ultimately more friendly in the starting/
    handling department than these (so-called) thoroughbreds and every
    bit as durable, if not a little more so.
    
    Super Tigre, Enya and Webra are three brands I've also had good
    luck with in the past but, when asked, I'll always recommend O.S.
    first and, indeed, the only engines I'm running, currently, are
    all O.S.  Were it me, I'd go for the power/reliability/durability/
    friendliness which are established characteristics of the O.S. line.
    
    Adios,	Al

	Tom, 
    
	I couldn't agree more with Al... a skunk engine is a real
	pain in the tail a the flight line.  Not only is it frustrating
	for yourself, but when your stinking around with it, your more
	than likely hogging a radio frequency, and consequently grounding 
	some other chap, and creating some undesirable acquaintances.
	So, if you think you'd like to spend your hours at the field flying,
	then get a reliable engine.

	Personally, I'm an O.S. fan.  The performance/reliability rating
	I believe is unmatched.  But that's my personal experience doing 
	the talking.  I'm sure there are others that are good.

	One that comes to mind, that won't leave you with rabbit ears,
	(empty pockets:-)) is the Supper Tiger, or similarly, the World
	Engine's Como series.  Personally, I've only owned one Supper tiger,
	but have had EXCELLENT luck with it.  It's a fine piece of 
	machinery!!  I know people that have flown them trouble free for
	8-10 years.  I think it lacks some-what in performance, compared to
	an O.S., but you've go to evaluate your needs, and your budget.
	For a real nice sport engine, I'd buy a Supper Tiger again and again,
	and would HIGHLY recommend it to anyone in the market with the 
	same intentions.

	Well, that's my two pennies...

	Good luck to you, and let us know your decision.

	/Brian
	    

    AL, BRIAN,
      
      THANKS FOR THE INFO.... BELIEVE ME, I'M NOT TAKING THE 
    CHEAPER WAY OUT!! I'VE DONE A CONSIDERABLE AMOUNT OF RESEARCH
    ON RADIOS AND ENGINES AND HAVE TALKED TO A FEW GUYS WHO HAVE
    HAD THE PROBLEMS THAT GO ALONG WITH CHEAP STUFF!! I'M JUST
    ABOUT READY TO ORDER SOME EQUIPMENT AND THOUGHT I'D GET SOME
    LAST MINUTE ADVICE!! IT ALL HELPS, AND YOU GUYS HAVE BEEN A
    BIG HELP TO ME!! MY DAD AND I HAVE A COUPLE "OS" 40'S THAT WE
    USED TO FLY U-CONTROL WITH THAT HAVE TO BE 8+ YEARS OLD! THEY ALWAYS
    RAN WELL... WE ALSO HAVE A COUPLE OLD "KB'S" THAT POWERED AN
    OLD "STERLING RINGMASTER" THAT STILL RUN. WE WILL OF COURSE BE
    BUYING SOME NEW MOTORS AND THOUGHT WE WOULD SEE IF THERE WERE
    ANY THAT WE WERE UNFAMILIAR WITH AND COULD CHECK OUT! THAT IS
    KINDA WHY I POSTED THIS BLURB.......... ALL THIS INFO IS "MUCH"
    APPRECIATED! THANKS AGAIN!!
    
    				TOM 

Tom,

If you have a couple of C/L OS 40's why not buy an RC carb and bolt it on. The 
engines are about equivalent to the OS 40RC, down on power a little compared 
to the FSR's but not a bad place to start.

Give it a go it will save you some dollars.

John.

    I too recommend OS engines.  Before I bought anything I went out
    and looked at what everyone at our club was flying.  Yep', most
    were using the OS.  I got an OS 40FSR and it's great.  It starts
    by hand everytime.  Many people have commented on how easy it starts.
    I gotta agree they're worth the money and peace of mind.
    
    I am curious though has anyone seen the new FUTABA YS series?  They
    have a crankcase pressure outlet and are supposed to be high
    performance.  But I think you have to buy the muffler extra.  Anybody
    have any info.?
    
    Chris

    Regarding adapting a carburetor to a U-control engine; I'm not very
    familiar with the venturi configuration on O.S. U-control engines
    but, if they're the type with the inverted bell-shaped venturi molded
    right into the front crankcase casting, you won't be able to simply
    bolt an R/C carb on.  Extensive modification to, or replacement
    of, the front crankcase casting would be required.  Check the feas-
    ibility carefully as carburetors ain't cheap!  The $40.00-50.00
    you'd spend "plus" the possibility of also replacing the crankcase
    casting would go a long way toward merely buying a new engine.
                               
    Adios,	Al

    Ciao Folks! I am looking for some info on 4ST engines, in particular:
    
    I have seen some ads here for, from what I can gather from the logo,
    an HP engine, made in Austria, with rotary valve arrangement. 
    
    Also have seen ads for Webra A-4T 13CC which claims to be light and
    powerful.
    
    My fall-back reference is an OS FS91 Surpass but always stirring the
    pot to see what comes up...
    
    Thanks and regards,
    Panic-Ed
    

    This seems to be an OLD notes file, hope someone is listing. I have
    recently purchase a sig sta Ryan and I need to buy an engine for it.
    There are two that I'm looking at O.S. is out of the question (too
    expensive) they are Enya .61 and ASP from world Engines Inc. Can some
    ones please give some information on these two engine. 
    

    Re: .-1, Bruce,
    
    Hope I'm guessing right on yer' name.  As to the engines you ask about,
    I can't speak from any experience on the ASP engines except to say that
    they are made in red China and the magazine reviewers seem unanimous on
    the point that they are not as precisely made as we've come to expect. 
    I know a couple of the 'back-east' noters tried ASP's and, my
    impression is that they were less than thrilled with them.  The caveat
    concerning engines, radios and just about anything else is "You get
    what you paid for."  If the price seems too good to be true, that very
    likely _is_ the case!
    
    Enya has always been a good engine; moderately powerful, friendly to
    operate and reliable.  I haven't run an Enya for quite awhile but used
    to run them exclusively and was very satisfied with them...my belief is
    that they remain a good value.  Another good engine in the
    not-quite-as-expensive category is the Super Tigre.  The old S.T.
    Bluehead was a classic and remains sought after years after its
    discontinuance.  Today's S.T.'s continue to be a good choice though the
    carbs tend to be just a tad fiddly to set up initially...once properly
    adjusted, they're just fine.
    
    Another fine engine that may be a smidgen cheaper is the Webra.  If you
    can stumble onto a sale for the old port bypass scavenged
    (non-Schneurle) Blackhead .61, you'll have a friendly, moderately
    powerful, long lasting engine that's worth every cent of the ~$75.00 it
    costs.  This engine was state-of-the-art ~15 years ago and may have
    been discontinued now but watch the ads from World Engines, Circus
    Hobbies and others and you may just snag a real bargain.  Also, some
    older hobby shops just _might_ still have a Blackhead on the shelf.
    If you fail to find one, the current Webras are also very good but are
    more pricey, though not as expensive as O.S.
    
    It's well known in this file that I prefer O.S. engines and feel
    they're well worth the extra expense...I've run them exclusively for
    over 10-years and recommend them unhesitatingly.  However, if you just
    cannot justify the cost, any of the above engines should serve you
    well in the Ryan (or any other .61 application)..
						 __
				|      |        / |\	   	       
      	         \|/		|______|__(o/--/  | \	   	       
      | |        00	       <|  ~~~  ____ 04 ---- | --------------------
    |_|_|        (O>o		|\)____/___|\_____|_/	   Adios amigos, Al
      |     \__(O_\_	        |	  |___/	 o	   (The Desert Rat)

    Hi Bruce,
    
    	It so happens I run both an Enya and Super Tigre. The Enya 60
    TVG8, and the S.T. S61K. I've never had a tach on the Enya, but
    the S.T. turned about 11,100 RPM with a bad rear bearing. It has
    something like 1.85 BHP. Not sure what the Enya is. Both engines
    are pulling 5 to 6 pound airplanes with very nice verticle performance.
    They have been very friendly and easy to use. They invarible start
    with one or two flips. I can't remember the last time I used the
    electric starter on either. For the money, I would recommend either
    one.
    
    BTW.....the RPM figure for the S.T. was with it turning a 11X8 prop.
    
    Steve

   I suggest you stay away from the ASP!  You can get a MUCH higher quality 
engine for just a bit more money.  


             Jim

  

    
    
    Thanks Guys,
    
      My thoughts are leaning toward the super tigre ABC.61. Thanks for
    the much needed help. I WAS going to buy the ASP.
    
    Bruce

						 __
				|      |        / |\	   	       
      	         \|/		|______|__(o/--/  | \	   	       
      | |        00	       <|  ~~~  ____ 04 ---- | --------------------
    |_|_|        (O>o		|\)____/___|\_____|_/	   Adios amigos, Al
      |     \__(O_\_	        |	  |___/	 o	   (The Desert Rat)

	I saw a mention of HP in here but no comment on them.  I'm
	interested in a .61 engine and saw one with BB and stuff,
	the Gold Cup model for what seemed a good price, $100.00.
	This company is from Austria.  Are their engines any good?
	What are people's experiences with them?  The literature

	that came with the engine (Manual, etc) looked impressive.
	Moreso than some other manufacturers.

	Comments appreciated.


	thanks
	Chad _drying_up_in_Utah_

Give ya five bucks for it!

    After reading all of your expert opinions in all of the engine notes, I
    find that there are no comments on the Webra or Merco engines.l
    
    Do any of you out there care to comment on these two makes of
    engines???
    
    Regards,
    
    Ollie

    I have several older Webra engines and am very pleased with them. These
    are from the time when MRC imported them and I had trouble getting
    parts. With the help of one of our German noters (Thanks, Harmut) I was
    able to still get parts even though the engines are almost classified
    as antiques. The were always good quality and have been around for
    years and years. In the 70's (when I bought mine) they were THE engine
    for pattern competition.
    
    You will be pleased with Webra quality and given the new distributor,
    parts availability should be fine (my problem was that I couldn't cross
    reference to their new parts numbers from my old MRC parts - which
    happened to be the same as the original Webra numbers 8^)

re Note 319.37 by FDCV27::P01YATES   -< What About These Two Engines >-
    
>>  I find that there are no comments on the Webra or Merco engines.
    
    Try these and the other notes near them:
    
        UPWARD::CASEYA       15-MAY-1990   93.106  BUM RAP ON WEBRA CARB.....
         39463::REITH        15-MAY-1990   93.107  Webra Carbs
        LOEDGE::REITH        18-SEP-1990   93.151  Webra answers and thanks
         39463::REITH        30-MAY-1990  174.11  The stock Webra uses the same technique
        THESUN::DAY           2-OCT-1987  319.10  Webra
        VARESE::SIEGMANN     18-OCT-1989  319.21  Webra/HP/?? 4 ST
        BPOV04::CAVANAUGH    19-OCT-1988  411.16  WEBRA 4 STROKE INFO
         GHANI::CASEYA       27-JAN-1988  438.6  THINK I'D OPT FOR THE WEBRA BULLY......
    
    I believe Kevin Ladd owns a Bully.

    
    re. .20
    
    Bob,
    A friend of mine is interested in buying a Laser engine. 
    Do you have by any chance the address/tel. of the company that 
    manufactures Laser engines in the U.K. 
    
    In order to circumvent the custom I would need somebody sending 
    me the Laser engine to Germany as a gift; of course payed by 
    myself.
    
    
    Regards
    Alfred

    
    	Hi Alfred,
    
    	I'm afraid Bob won't be able to reply to your question, because
    	he can no longer read this conference.. he left the company about
    	2 years ago!!
    
    	All is not lost however.  The information you require is avaiable
    	in the small ads at the back of all the British modelling mags:
    
    	from "Radio modeller"  
    
    	contact  A. G. C. Sales Ltd,
    	         London Road,
    	         Aspley,
    	         Hemel Hempstead,
    	         Herts.  HP3 9ST.
    
    		tel 0442 249505
    
    	or you can contact the designer himself (Neil Tidy) on 0525 210596
    
    	remember UK country code is 44, also you will need to drop the "0"
    	ie 44-442 etc.
    
    	cheers,
    	Brian 

    
    	Hi ya all,
    
    	'just found this subject and like to add some favorate words for
    	WEBRA engines, especially the 61 RACING Longstroke ABC. 
    
    	I'm flying this engine the third season in my KNIFE edge, one F3A
    	type of plane. The setup is a tuned pipe from ROBBE and a 
    	Graupner 11 x 10 prop. The engine is equipped with a Dynamix carb 
    	and the tank is preasurized by the pipe. My fuel is Methanol with 
    	10% synthetic oil, NO Nitromethan.
    
    	I've run for shure 15 gallon of fuel through this engine, it never
    	quit nor made trouble with starting. It's just running. The
    	compression is still perfect, and my last measurement with the 
    	above mentioned prop is still 12800 rpm, good for 10-11 pounds of
    	thrust. The rev is picking up instantaneously from idling to full 
    	throttle, always. 
    
    	I know about one other friend having the same engine and beeing
    	same satisfied with its characteristics. If I would ever need a new
    	60, I'd buy this new WEBRA Competition, it's claimed to develop 
    	the same power than the OS Hanno. There were several at the last 
     	F3A competition.	
    	
    	I bought it in the US and reimported it, a lot cheaper than I would 
    	have to pay here. 
                                             
    
        Nice winterflying,  Bernd
         

How you doing, where you been all this time, since you were here in CXO...

I know, taking all of those vacation days you acquired but didnt get a chance
to use here in the US, tell Silvia Hi!

I want to report on the new SuperTigre GS40K.  This has (according to TOWER
and also Ken's Discount Hobbies in Orem Utah) replaced the S-40K (neither
store had the S-40K anymore). I got two of these while in Utah last May.
Tower claims 10% more HP than the S-40K.  WIthout having run the S-40K
I cannot objectively comment, but this engine pulls.

I ran one in and flew a small bit with it in Utah.  The plane had a plumbing 
problem and the enngine would go way lean within 5 minutes and die.  I ended
up putting a YS .45 on the plane which just ignored the bad plumbing :-).

Anyway, here in Germany on Saturday I was out with my (only built plane now
in flyable condition) Eagle II (Sov Eagle -- black with red stars :-).  I had
my Magnum PRO .45 on it that had been returned from the factory.  The motor
worked out really well until Saturday.  Somehow I lost the whole needle-valve
assembly while in flight :-(.  I'm as dumbfounded as you would be.  Anyway,
wanting to still fly I went home and got the GS40K and went back, fitted it to
the plane, started it up and adjusted the motor, and flew.  It provided lots
of power and had no lean out problems on this plane.  It turned the master 
airscrew plastic 10x6 13,700 RPM.  This same propellor on the Magnum PRO .45
turned also at 13,700 -- 13,900 RPM.  This is at 800m altitude above sea level.
So far I like it.

Chad
who has 6 .40-.45 size engines and one plane :-)
(2 YS .45, 2 GS40K, 1 Magnum PRO .45, 1 K&B Sportster .45)

    
     Chad,
    
        The same thing happened to my Magnum .45. The whole needle valve
    assembly just fell out! I had some difficulty ordering a replacement
    part through a local hobby shop, and finally gave up. If you have any
    difficulty, I would recommend going straight through the manufacturer
    ( or just replace the whole carb with an O.S., as I did :)
    
                                                                 Dan

    As long as we're on the subject of the Magnum Pro 45...
    
    After a thorough cleaning two weeks ago, my Magnum ran well for one
    flying session and then started running like hell again. Since I was
    also having problems with the soft mount (that's another story), I took
    everything apart, including the fuel tank. Leave no stones unturned.
    
    What I found: the damn needle valve was clogged. Again. It got gunked up
    in just a few flights. I have no idea where this stuff is coming from.
    I use a fuel filter, and the inside of the tank was clean as a whistle.
    Any ideas?  And the other problem: the idle set screw had loosened up 
    once again and was virtually closing the fuel hole at idle. This was a 
    design/manufacturing flaw in some of the engines which I had fixed by
    wrapping the set screw with teflon tape. So I rewrapped it and it's now
    tight. For now.
    
    Other Interesting Observation: I've been running the engine for quite a
    while with Jim Reith's SoundMaster muffler. It's definitely quieter
    than the stock muffler, but the strap-on SoundMaster was leaking
    exhaust crud all over the engine, engine bay, and plane. A closer
    inspection showed that the mating surface of the engine exhaust port
    was being slowly ground down by the SoundMaster muffler. Now I'm
    wondering if the stock muffler will seat properly without leaking. 
    
    What next???
    
    Dave
    

Dave, I'd like to recommend a few things that seem irrelevant to your
problem, but could be the cure.  "Dirt in the needle valve" and "fuel
tank position" advice are the two favorite cure-alls of the flight
line engine hackers, I mean experts.  Listen to them the first time
around, then do something else.  These things are absolutely essential
to runnning an engine up here in The Springs.

1. Run muffler pressure to the tank.

2. Use a teeny piece of fuel line
on the needle valve, whether the engine needs it or not.

3. Use only K&B glow plugs, not Fox.  My comments on K&B products are
well recorded here, but their plugs are second to none.  Also, if you
do have a lean run for some reason, I've found that the glow plug gets
damaged, particularly on a low-time ABC engine.  The plug will look
ok, and it'll start ok, but it'll die out after several minutes--just
enough to get you into the air.

    Well, I do run a pressure line from the muffler. I don't put the tubing
    on the needle valve because I've never seen any signs of a leak around
    the needle assembly. But it certainly wouldn't hurt to try. And I do
    currently have a Fox plug installed. 
    
    My problems with this engine in the past have been almost exclusively
    caused by clogged needle valve and defective idle mixture screw. Each
    time I fix it up, it runs like a top and really screams. With the same
    plug. Then the symptoms start slowly creeping in again. 
    
    I still wanna know where that needle valve crud is coming from...
    

What is meant by

"
2. Use a teeny piece of fuel line
on the needle valve, whether the engine needs it or not.
"

Thanks
Chad

Re .-1

The teeney piece of fuel tubing (when I've used it) goes over the needle and 
compresses when you  tighten the needle vale setting. It keeps the needle 
sealed and prevents the setting from changing through vibration.

Crud:

how about trying a "fuel filter" on the pressure line. maybe you're getting 
crud from the muffler?

Yeah, you remove the needle valve and cut off about a fat 1/8 inch of
standard fuel tubing; slip this over the needle valve threaded area on
the carb and screw in the needle valve.  Check with somebody at the
field, nearly everyone knows this one.

	I lost one of the screws that hold the
carb. to the engine on my OS .40 FP. Anyone know
where to get one of these ?

			Larry

    Larry,
    	You should be able to get one from a local hobby shop - they will
    have to order it, or from Tower Hobbies.  You might be able to match
    the metric size in a hobby shop that carries hardware for cars and
    stuff.  It's not a critical screw and I forced a nylon screw in the
    hole for a guy that lost one once.  If you still have one screw, the
    main thing is to plug the other hole.  This is only a temporary fix
    until you can get the right screw.
    
    Charlie
    

    When something like this happens to me I call TOM's hobby find out if
    he has it(he usually does) how much it costs and send him a SASE for
    the part.   I recently lost a few engine parts...
    Tom's number is 508 251-4576.  I usually include the cash in the
    envelope
    
    
    Regards,
    
    	Doug
    

  Well I think I got a good deal last night on a 'new' engine.  Jack Zimmack,
who is a CMRCM member and honorary HTA) sold me a modified OS .61 SF.  This
engine has been professionally upgraded so that it is basically a Hanno Special.
I think Charlie told me that this engine actually turns 300 rpm faster than
his real Hanno!  Jack sold me the engine (has new bearings, sleeve, piston, etc.
 - the upgrade hardware), a header, and tuned pipe for $180.  The regular
OS .61 SF goes for $230 through Tower and doesn't include the header or pipe.
The Hanno Special is selling for $330 (again no header or pipe)!

  I plan on using this engine in my Boxer (when it's complete that is...) :^)
This will give me incentive to get back to work on the Boxer and get it ready
for next spring.

  
  
             Jim

    The O.S. 1.08 was heavily recommended by past noters - Casey, Watt, and
    Henderson.  I bought one, and everyone who has seen this engine perform
    in my 11 lb. towplane has been VERY impressed.  It has tremendous
    power, reliable idle, easy starting, and very smooth power transition -
    all at the hands of a first time power flyer.  This engine is great!
    Spend the extra money, you will not regret it.