Conference vmszoo::rc

    KAY,
    
    Nothing unique to suggest re: wing racks...but, by all means, use
    one.  1/2" dowels plugged into a strip of 1 x 2 and mounted to the
    wall work fine.
    
    For fuselage storage, I use an idea I came up with when I used to
    use a spare bedroom for my shop.  I merely bent-up clothes hangers
    (use the sturdy plastic-coated ones if possible) to hook around
    the propellor and "hung the fuselages up" in the clothes-closet.
    When I built my workshop I adapted the same principle by attaching
    a pair of 3/4" ply standoffs to the wall with a length of 1 1/2"
    dowel suspended between them.  The added (unseen) benefit of this
    tail-down storage method is that, when stored for extended periods,
    the clunk-line in your fuel tank "can" fall forward, doubling-up
    on itself and take a set causing you a lotta' grief the next time
    you try to run the engine.  Also this prevents any residual fuel
    in the tank from running into the engine promoting rust.  Try it,
    you may like it...it also makes maximum use of available space.
    
    Adios,	Al

    
    	A different point of view...
    
    	I just hang the whole plane from the ceiling of my basement.
    They stay out of the way and the engines stay `flat'.  I prefer
    to keep the engines flat (rather than vertical) so that the ball
    bearings are at the lowest point.  With FS40s and 40FSRs, I'm real
    scared to let them dry, especially in a basement with the humidity
    and all...

Good topic.  As it turns out, I'll be taking my workshop out and
re-doing it in the next few weeks because of a general
remodelling of one of them thar basement things.

I use a piece of bulletin board material for building.  It is
sort of grayish in color and cost about $5 for a 4' x 2' piece a
couple of years ago.  It is terrific.  I seldom use pins, since I
prefer the weight method of building, but the board takes pins
easily.  My bench is 6' x 2' with about 4' of useable space; the
rest taken up with lamps, and parts drawers.  I use spotlights on
my work: I have three, two on desk lamps, which catch the work
surface in a crossfire,  and one from the ceiling.  I need the
light for detail work, and this is adequate, though hot. 

I have the area wired so one switch controls power to all lights
and accessories.  There is one outlet that I use for charging
only, that is live at all times.  The rest are controlled by the
switch.  The reason I do this is that I've been known to be
absent minded and walk out with a soldering iron or oscilloscope
on (I do some electronic stuff there).  This way, when I turn off
the lights, I know that everything is off.

The planes are placed on the popular rack of dowels; I store the
fuse and wing on the same set of dowels.

One thing that I like is a drafting/illustrator's cutting board.
Its a piece of plastic-like material that you can cut into
without damage.  Works great for cutting out parts.

The problem I'm having is that its just too cluttered for my
taste.  I would like to get some ideas on layout because when I
put the shop back together I will try for more floor space.

>I use a piece of bulletin board material for building.  It is
>sort of grayish in color and cost about $5 for a 4' x 2' piece a
>couple of years ago.  It is terrific.  I seldom use pins, since I

Oh yeah - forgot to mention you can't stick pins into the pressed wood
work shop bench top at all.  At McManus hobbies in Fitchburg I buy
this 4' x 2' stuff they call building board.  It is probably the same
stuff described above.  It is like ceiling tile.  That's what I put
the plans over and pin on.  I don't know how to build with weight(s)?

Hadn't thought about close hangers - thanks for the idea.

About wing/fuse racks.  How do I get the dowel holes at the same angle.
I have a port-a-line - but I don't know where the directions are for it.
I'll bet there is a way to have it help me make the holes all the same
angle - anybody remember how?

              _!_      
Bye        ----O----   
Kay R. Fisher / \     

================================================================================

On weights -- I have a little box with a dozen or so pieces of
metal, and assorted fishing sinkers (the flat disk type of 1 oz
is best).  Instead of using pins I lay the weights on the wood to
hold it in place.  Been doing that for as long as I can remember.
Since I build small, and frequently handle 1/16 square or smaller
wood, this method works well for me.  A couple of weights do the
job of a dozen or more pins.

Getting the angle of the dowels the same.  I made a jig
consisting of two 6" square pieces of wood, hinged together at
one edge, sorta like a book.  I stuck a piece of wood inside the
edge opposite the hinges to separate the wood by an "amount that
looks right".  Then by putting this jig on the table of my
mickey-mouse drill press, I laid the long pieces of the rack on
the top of the jig and drilled constant angle holes.  This is a
common and handy jig if you have a drill press, but it can be
used freehand since it is easier to set a drill upright than at
the same angle each time.

I found that the angle was not critical, and in fact, I'm tempted
to drill the uprights at 90 deg next time I make the rack.

We just moved into a new house and I haven't had time to set up a
workshop. In the meantime i've been using (lets try to hold the
laughter down, folks) an old door sitting on a pair of sawhorses.
This works out REALLY well. I'd been thinking about using a door 
for quite a while so i've been looking them over whenever I go
to lumber yards (i.e. Grossmans or whatever). What I found is that
most doors are surpriseingly flat. The door that i'm using was sitting
in the basement when we moved in so I avoided the expense of actually
buying one to try this out. The last plane that I built (using weights
to hold everything in place) was absolutely straight. So, if you're
in need of a quick and dirty workbench then give this a try.

GES

    
    
    		RE -.1: Who's laughing? I have a work area that is
    	shaped like an L  in my attic but needed an area to build 
    	that was big enough to fit the full plans. So I found myself
    	an old heavy wood door that has four panels in it and nailed
    	a 1/2" sheet of plywood over it and then a 1/2" sheet of 
    	homasote on top of that. I trimmed the edges to fit the
    	door and built a couple of heavy sawhorses to hold it up.
    	Works great for me, lay plans on it and pin right to it
    	with wax paper over the plans.
    
    
                             My work area
    
    
    
                ___________________________
                |                         |
                |  workbench  for tools   |
                |      -------------------|
    		|      |		
                |      |
                |------|         __________
                                 |        |
                                 |        |
                                 |  door  |
                                 |        |
                                 |        |
                                 |        |
                                 |        |
                                 |        |
                                 ----------
                   
    		This view is from above.
    
    		Works for me.
    					Mike
    

    
    I've heard that a hollow door can be one of the straightest
    surfaces you can easily find.

    Bill
    

    
    	I have two benches...  Each one is a hollow door over a stack
    of cement blocks.  Works like a champ!

    
    	Hollow core door can be had cheap. Inquire at your local building
    supply outlet for any hollow core doors that have had any water
    damage. A little water will stain the door. Most doors these days
    are stained so the water stain effectively scraps the door for normal
    sale. I use on that I bought a couple of years ago for I think under
    $ 5.00. 
    	I'm lazy. For wing racks I visit my local Army/Navy surplus
    store and buy that metal shelving material. Screw it into a stud
    and cover the arms with piping insulation and your all set. Cheap
    too.  I use a bedroom for a hobby room and have the above shelving
    set up over my table. I ran a 1" board between the arms and then
    mounted my lighting fixture to the bottom of the 1" board. I ran
    the cord over to an outlet and I'm all set up. The only thing I
    don't like is that the old lady won't let me pull up the wall to
    wall carpet. I keep loosing things in the carpet.
    
    						Tp,

Cross posted from the Plastic notes file FYI.
Has anybody seen this book yet?  Applicable to RC workshops?

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
================================================================================

        <<< IOALOT::DUA3:[NOTES$LIBRARY]PLASTIC_SCALE_MODELING.NOTE;1 >>>
              -< Welcome to the Plast Scale Modeling Conference >-
================================================================================
Note 32.2                    General Hints and Tips                       2 of 2
METS::GATES                                           7 lines   7-MAR-1989 12:32
                                -< hints book >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    Squadron books has just put out a soft cover book called The Complete
    Model Workshop. It has a slew of hints and tips on all kinds of
    modelling work. Well worth $6.95. I got mine at the Spare Time Shop
    in Marlboro.
    
    Skip
    

    
    I haven't been able to locate a note that we talk about storage issues
    for our planes and equipment.  So, here we go...
    
    What do you use for storage of air frames??
    
    I use book shelf brackets that are covered with pieces of pipe
    insulation.  This works great as the distance between shelves is easily
    changed and it keeps the planes out of harms way.  I have two "racks"
    currently setup.  Each rack keeps the wings of all of the planes in the
    higher storage positions and the fuses down lower (geting them closer
    to the outlet for charging).
    
    I believe this is a very good, low cost solution.
    
    WARNING
    +++++++
    
    Make sure that the shelf brackets are secure in the shelf strips!!
    and check them occasionally.
    
    The room where I store my planes is directly above my bedroom and the
    room has wood floors (no carpet).  The other night at around midnight I
    was awakened by a horrible crashing sound.  It sounded like someone was
    trying to break the door down.  This of course, also caused the dogs to
    go crazy barking and such (what a way to get your adrenilin going!!)
    
    It turned out that one of the brackets let go, causing by SS-40 to
    fall.  But somehow, it also knocked 2 other fuses off the rack!  Tail
    feather damage to 2 of the planes, fuse damage to the third...  Ugggg.
    I soon remembered that that bracket had not been very secure, but I was
    in a hurry and had planned to get back to it. 
    
    I don't believe this will happen if you use a hammer to seat the
    brackets and check them occasionally.
    
    
    So, what does everyone else do??
    
    cheers,
    jeff
    

    Jeff a less costly way is to use your shlef idea but only a small
    bracket. Enough to store only the wings. I then have a 1" dowl secured
    between the bottom two brackets. Using a coat hanger a double hook
    set up can be bent into the coat hanger. Thes hooks grab the prop
    of the plane. The original hook bent normally on a coat hanger is
    used to suspend the plane from the dowl. 
    
    One side benny is that the fuel residue inside of a engine can't
    get to the front bearings this way.
    
    
    Tom

    My workshop is in my basement, which means I have concrete walls.
    I used a nail-gun to nail a couple 2x4s to the wall. Before I had
    the nail gun I drilled holes and used lag bolts and shields, but
    that's too much work.

    The 2x4s had been pre-drilled with 1/2 inch holes every 6 inches
    or so. (Be sure the holes are straight, use a drill press if you
    have one.) I then bought some 1/2 inch dowels at the hardware store,
    and cut them to 12, 18, and/or 24 inch lengths, sanding a slight
    taper on one end.

    I tap the dowels into the holes with a hammer. The different
    lengths can be used depending on the size of the part you want to
    store. The wings are on 12" dowels 6" apart. Fuselages with
    attached landing gear need the 18 or 24" dowels and need to be
    about 12" apart. (If you have heavy planes you can use larger
    dowels.) If I want to change the configuration I can gently work
    the dowels out of the holes and move them. If you want to get
    elegant you could drill a 1/8" hole through the end of the dowel
    and put a small dowel or nail through to help twist.

    For the slots where I put fuselages, I staple a big piece of foam
    rubber to the 2x4 so that it provides a cushion between the
    horizontal stab and the concrete wall.

    My SS20 goes in the top slot, fully assembled, nose toward the
    wall.  They're only 12" dowels, but it balances on the wing and
    the tail sticks out. It's up high so I don't bump my head on it.

    The dowel rack is also great for storing airplane kit boxes (which
    I have full of balsa and stuff), rolls of monokote, etc.

    I also have one spot where I drove two 24 penny nails into a
    floor joist about 4" apart. It's actually just in front of one
    of my dowel racks. I use that for hanging up a plane if I
    don't want to disassemble it. I just hang it on the prop, adding a
    couple #64 rubber bands across the nails to keep it from falling
    if it gets bumped. It's great for my bipe.

    Dave

First you have to have a basement (sorry Al ;^)

My shop is in my basement also. I use the space between the open 1st floor floor 
joists to store most everything. I have lots of C/L planes hanging from their
leadouts on nails in an unused corner and most of my wings, kit boxes, and 
fuselages are put up by nailing a long nail through the joist so it sticks out
both sides and then rubberbands (I used to use #104 but can't find them) or
car luggage straps (cloth covered rubber with a hook on each end). Just got to
watch out for the nails sticking down through the sub-floor above. This gets 
everything up out of harms way where "little helpers" won't step/fall on them.
With 16" on center joists there is room for most wings and such.

This isn't a new idea but one some people might not think of...

    Quite some time ago I installed a cup hook in the workshop ceiling for
    checking the CG after major repairs.  I now use the hook to store my
    glider upside down against the ceiling.  A rubber band is passed over
    the glider nose and onto the cup hook; then the tow hook is engaged
    with the cup hook.  The rubber band keeps the plane from slipping off.

    I've now used this for several weeks with only good results.  The plane
    need not be disassembled.  It goes up and then down quickly, and it
    stays up securely.  It can be recharged while it's up there since it is
    over my workbench.  Most important, the plane is out of harm's way.


    //////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////////
                                 J
         ________________________O_________________________
    	/                    ____|____                     \
       /                         |                          \

    Alton who appreciates the glider's lack of a oily, dripping engine

I've got a ceiling outlet in my shop for my table saw and such. I installed cup 
hooks near it and I charge my transmitters by hanging them next to the outlet 
by their handles. With 8 foot ceilings it works out great. The antennas stick up 
into the open rafters/joists.

    OK, for all of you packrats and others that are looking for good work
    surfaces....
    
    Digital is now selling excess office equipment/supplies/tools at the
    Contoocook, NH facility.  To get a listing of available items and the
    procedures for picking the stuff up (sorry, no shipping) type:
    
    		$ VTX PDCSTORE
    
    They have workbenches with formica tops and multiple outlets for like
    $30.  A few years ago I bought a surplus metal desk with a formica top
    through a similar deal.  They make GREAT work surfaces..  My surface
    is within my specs of being "flat".
    
    They also have file cabinets, shelves, tools and all sorts of other
    stuff. 
    
    As I understand, they are just starting up, and so new things are being
    constantly added to the list.
    
    Cheers,
    jeff
    

    
    
    Do they ship or do you have to be a local to take advantage of this???
    
    
    	Carl T.
    

    Cash and Carry...
    
    Sorry..
    
    cheers,
    jeff
    

    
    	My understanding is that they hold it for 7 days so you can pick it
    up at the NH site. There are limits to amount you can purchase in one
    month and YOU have to pick it up if you're the buyer - have to show
    your badge  to get it. You can not have someone else pick up your
    order. I think the policies etc are listed in the VTX file but that's
    the highlights. Think monthly limit is $200, not sure if that's
    calender or 30 day increments - probably calender.

I could use some advice on work benches.

When I moved into my current house I built the work benches
out of 2x4s and covered the top with 3 ft. wide 3/4" plywood
and covered that with 3/4" pressboard and they were solid
and level and straight.  

Now 5 or 6 years later they are all sagging.

So I put a piece of thick (maybe 3/8") glass on
one and shimmed it up with scrap pieces of balsa wood.

Yesterday I went to get a hollow core door for my other
bench and they didn't have any cheap damaged ones but the
guy talked me into a $15.00 solid core door.  I was concerned
that it might sag more than hollow core and he didn't
think it would.

Anyway last night I put this solid core door on my work bench
and it sagged.  So I shimmed it up with scrap balsa.

Now here is where I would like some advice.
What would have been the RIGHT way to build the benches?
The goal it to have them perfectly level and perfectly straight
FOREVER.  My first thoughts are my next work bench (or perhaps I 
will tear the old ones down some day soon) would be build on steel
I beams.  If so where can I get some?  Does someone make things
to make easy cross pieces?  I have used aluminum 2x4s in the past
and they hold potential - but I would worry about them carrying
much weight without sagging.

The second question centers around shimming.  There must be
a better way of shimming up something to take the sag out.

For instance I was thinking if I had some spray foam stuff I
could make a big puddle of it and float the door on it and
it would naturally end up hardening to a straight (no sag)
condition.  Anyway the open question is - Does anybody
have a nice method of shimming?  Using what material?

What about drilling holes thru the old sagging bench and putting
bolts thru from the top and locking two nuts on the bottom.
Then turning the bottom nuts to raise or lower the bolt.
Like twenty little adjustable micro shims.

I tried to buy a piece of marble - but it was prohibitively
expensive.

Bye          --+--
Kay R. Fisher  |
---------------O---------------
################################################################################

    Although my bench is new and is not suffering any age problems, one
    of the things I made sure I did was to put a 2x4 center support across
    all the open "bays". My bench is basically a retangular frame open in
    the middle. There is a 2x4 that runs from end to end down the middle
    to support the ply top. The ply top is screwed to the frame around the
    edges, plus to the center support "beam". I can stand on it and it
    won't sag.
    
    Steve

My bench is made from an old (OLD!) sideboard. This has chipboard applied to the 
top with contact adhesive, to give me a surface I can pin into. I had to use two 
pieces of chipboard to cover it, and this was a PAIN to get flat. 

The upshot is a surface that can't sag, the old sideboard makers used to build 
'em strong. It's big enough for my needs (2'6" X 6' ish, sorry Bernd!).

I realise that this may not be enough for some, but I think the old furniture 
idea has possibilities, if you pick the right stuff, the frames are very rigid.

Cheers.

Nigel

    Why does everyone use wood??
    
    Back some years ago when a DEC building was shutting down in Nashua,
    they had a sale of all sorts of stuff....  I got a metal, formica top
    desk with a handy tool drawer for like $10-$20.
    
    Today, DEC is selling all of the old stuff through the PDC STORE.  You 
    can check to see what they have in VTX PDCSTORE.
    
    And better yet, rather than having to go all the way to Conttocook, NH, 
    they have it right here in Nashua!!
    
    Don't like working sitting down??  Just extend the legs!
    
    cheers,
    jeff
    

    I have one of those I beam, forged steel frame workbenches your talking
    about. It has a plank 2 in oak top skimmed with a steel surface. The
    thing weighs a "ton". When we moved it took 4 of us to lift it. They
    put it on the truck first and loaded things on it to the ceiling of the
    truck. Needless to say it doesn't sag at all. I would not recommended
    this type of overkill to anyone thou. Just make sure you put angle
    braces fron the ends of the bench to the middle that should be enough
    for anyone. Unless, you plan on dancing on it. Then I would recommend
    the steel I beam frame.
    
    				Steve m...

My bench is all 2x6 construction and the legs are three 2x6s bolted 
around the crosspieces. The crosspieces are 4x4s and the top is a 
solid core door 1 5/8" thick with supports every 16" in both 
directions. I have literally put an anvil on this bench to do some 
work with no trouble. A sheet of drywall over the top makes a nice 
removable/replacable pinning surface.

Shimming? To do ceramic tile floors we used a cement mud that you 
could float your door on and wouuld harden into a permanent support.
make sure to design the legs removable so you can carry the pieces 
out of the basement. And Eric used to think I built my PLANES heavy 8^)

    This is one of those "I'm not sure where to put this..." but here goes,
    I am in the process of building a 12x22 workshop for my ultralight
    airplane. this will be heated as I work in it (not heated continually).
    The question is what effect will this have on bulsa wood? will it twist
    it, warp it, crack it? And what about wings that are uncovered will
    they twist etc...?
    
    Thanks for your help, 
    Bruce