Conference vmszoo::rc

    Since Kay started it, I'll join in.  I am building an Ultra-Hots which
    is a 1400 sq in 12-14 lb funfly plane.  I plan to add smoke and the
    designer recommended a gas engine.  He said that gas engines produce
    much better smoke due to the hotter exhaust.  I also want to be able to
    run only a 16 oz fuel tank to leave room for a smoke tank.  I plan to
    order a Zenoah G-38 from B & B Specialties.  They have all of the big
    engines and accessories.  They have smoke systems, engine mounts,
    spring starters, fuel tanks, etc for gas.  I haven't heard anyone say
    that this engine requires an aftermarket ignition system to run well,
    so I'll be going with the stock ignition.
    
    Any Comments from the Big Engine Experts out there?????
    
    
    
    Charlie
    

i can probably add something here!

i have a webra bully in my 26 lb baker p47.  it is 35cc or ~2.1 cid.
power is rated at up to 4 hp.  i don't know if 4hp is accurate but it
does swing an 18x6-10 prop in excess of 7.5k with relative ease (slobering
rich).  the bully is a strong and dependable engine and i love it.  but
the bully is not for everyone.

the good features of the bully is that it is strong, dependable, and
compact.  people talk about power to weight ratios, but for scale, the
power to bulk ratio is often more important.  the bully is very compact
and can usually fit in a smaller cowl than even a weaker st2500.  all
gas engines have the annoying (to me) spark plug sticking out the top
of the cylinder (and dont forget that doubly annoying carb which always
sticks way out on all stock gas engines (including stock bully)).  the
only thing i wish was different on the bully is the exhaust location.
it is side exhaust, and usually rear allows easier muffler installation
on scale ships.

the bad features are that it can be expensive to run.  the original carb
was a walbro pumper and consumption was almost 3oz per minute.  no problem
for my jug since i fly it infrequently, but that would be unacceptable on
an everyday sport ship.  the bully can be considered expensive (or cheap
compared to equivalent powered 4cycles).  the glo version (which is what
i'm running) is up over $300 now.  in addition i purchased an os7d carb,
a carb adapter, and a shaft extension.  the os carb adapters yields lower
power but much lower fuel consumption.  the shaft extension allows the
engine to sit back behind a dummy engine and allows prop changes with a
single nut rather than 6 bolts.  carb adapter and shaft extension bought
from gene barton of skyraider fame.

for my next jug i might switch over to a g62.  the jug has a huge cowl and
the g62 can fit in with nothing sticking out, even the plug.  i can then
have more power for vertical maneuvers (the bully pulls great in horizontal
flight but runs out of poop vertically) and swing a larger more scale
diameter prop.  the 18" prop looks way too small.  this decision is pending
my success or lack of it with a g62 powered balsa usa hand launch glider
design called the pup.

i'm also designing a large me110 whenever i need a break from reality.
for this the bully(ies) is just the ticket due to the limited engine
compartment size (ala me109).  in fact, after choosing the bully, the
size of the plane (1:5.75) was determined by how small a scale would allow
the bully to still fit...  i have enough positive experience with the bully
to be comfortable with its reliability, a critical factor with twins.  for
gravy the bully runs equally well in either rotation right out of the box,
zinger sells large pusher props, so counter-rotation is readily available
should i decide to go that route (the full size did not).

pass the fuel can please...

  This isn't tech info but.......

  Tom's Hobby Korner (Chelmsford) has a SuperTigre 3000 for $209 + tax.
This is the price of the ST2500 through Tower.

  The ST3000 is a 1.8 cubic inch 2 stroke engine.  This sucker is BIG.

  


                  Jim

    I haven't run any of the "really big" engines as yet but have observed
    just about all of them so I can venture a _personal_ opinion on the
    better known makes:
    
    O.S. 1.08 - A real honey!  The 1.08 delivers nearly equal power to the
    S.T.-2500 at a third less weight but is much friendlier that the large
    S.T. mills and will tolerate a hot run where just one such run usually
    cooks a S.T for good.  Will haul up to 20 lb's of scale model (depending 
    on type) around with comparative ease and, operated/maintained correctly,
    is dead reliable.
    
    Enya 1.20R - probably the best of the large, single cylinder 4-strokes. 
    It has a lotta' power and will handle up to a 14-15 lb. scale model
    fairly well.  Seems fairly operator friendly and reliable but is more
    fiddly to maintain than a 2-stroke.  BTW, for a 4-stroke, this engine is 
    plenty loud so muffling will be required to satisfy noise requirements.
    
    Enya 2.40 V-twin - I've only seen one of these, installed in a Byron
    Ryan PT-21.  It hauls the plane nicely but is plenty noisy and, due to
    it's size and V-configuration, cannot be totally hidden...the valve
    covers of both cylinders stick out from the Ryan's cowl.  One
    observation isn't enough but my first impression is, nice engine but
    expensive for the amount of power you get and I'd prefer a large single-
    cylinder gasser, personally.
    
    O.S. 2.40 & 3.40 Pegasus, 4-cylinder opposed - As with the Enya-Vee,
    this is a nice engine but it doesn't deliver power commensurate with
    its total displacement...a Quadra-50 or Zenoah G-62 will outperform it
    for lots less bucks!  The engine is _incredibly_ quiet and impressive
    because of what it is but, personally, I can't justify the 4-figure
    price tags of all these big multi-cylinder engines just to put them on
    the front end of a javelin and tear it all asunder on the inevitable
    day when it tent-pegs into the turf.
    
    Quadra-35 - This is the gasser that started the giant scale movement
    and is still considered by some as the standard gas engine.  Actually,
    it's a bit light in the power department and is ill suited to large
    scale fighter types, being ideally installed in large, high-wing
    general aviation types, i.e. J3 Cub, Aeronca Champ, etc.  The engine is
    very reliable but vibrates badly, especially in the mid-range.  Dario
    Brisighella(sp?) will custom balance the Q-35 but some shaking remains. 
    Very good dollar value.  The Quadra-40 is essentially the same engine
    just punched out slightly in displacement.
    
    Quadra-50 - _Now_ we're getting into the performance area!  The Q-50
    will haul a 28 lb. Byron Staggerwing at over 105 mph, straight and
    level!  The built-in recoil starter and an after-market choke are
    almost mandatory for ease of starting but it's a consistent, reliable
    performer and a good dollar value.
    
    Zenoah Quartz G-62 - This engine's a real sweetheart.  Slightly larger
    than the Q-50, it packs a real wallop in the power department and hauls
    a 30 lb. Baker P-47 at 120-125 mph, straight and level, with plenty of
    vertical performance to boot.  An after-market choke is a must for
    starting but it hand starts fairly easily with this device attached. 
    Again, a good value for the money.
    
    Sachs-Dolmar - These are considered the Cadillacs of large gas engines
    and the 4.2 Sachs is thought of as the epitome of power available today.
    I've seen the 4.2 perform admirably in heavy/draggy giant scale models,
    including the large Schneider Cup racers and it DOES perform.  However,
    Sachs engines are a bit pricey and, for my money, unless I really
    needed the extra punch of the 4.2, I'd go for the Zenoah G-62.
    
    Super Tigre 2000/2500/3000 - Definitely affordable and reasonably 
    powerful but VERY intolerant of a lean run...just one and you may have 
    par-broiled yer' mill!  Best installed in the wide open or in a roomy 
    cowl (for the reason just stated) but, with care, can handle the average 
    1/5 size WW-II fighter.  The 2500 is definitely the best of the three and 
    the 3000 has timing problems that prevent it from realizing its potential
    unless modified.  All-in-all, a rather delicate engine but one that can
    provide good service if run/maintained carefully, especially in sport
    applications.
    
    Moki 2500 - The Moki is far superior, in my opinion, to the S.T mills;
    it's more powerful, reliable and tolerant.  Problem is the Moki is made
    in Hungary which makes acquiring the engine and parts a bit difficult.
    
    O.S. Boxcar 3500 - I've yet to see this one do its stuff but have heard
    EXTREMELY favorable comments on it from Frank Tiano and others.  Frank
    says it makes the large S.T. engines look like Cox's in the power
    department.  Sounds encouraging and I'm anxious to see one.
    
    Webra Bully - A fine little mill.  Available in gas or glo, the bully
    is a tough little customer, especially in glo, and with after-market
    accessories, such as the O.S. carb, the bully can pull a 40 lb.
    Skyraider with authority.  I wouldn't have believed it from a little
    2.5 c.i. engine but I've seen it and seeing is believing. 
						 __
				|      |        / |\	   	       
      	         \|/		|______|__(o/--/  | \	   	       
      | |        00	       <|  ~~~  ____ 04 ---- | --------------------
    |_|_|        (O>o		|\)____/___|\_____|_/	   Adios amigos, Al
      |     \__(O_\_	        |	  |___/	 o	   (The Desert Rat)

    Kay asked offline about the Zenoah Quartz G-38.  This is a smaller
    gasser than the Quadra Q-35 and is suitable for large sport types like
    the big Super-Hots Charlie's building.  I'm not sure of the
    displacement but I'd say, if the G-23 is approximately equivalent to a
    .90-1.08 2-stroke glo, then the G-38 picks up from there with a 14-20
    lb. airplane probably being ideal, though 20 lb's approaches the upper
    limits of its capabilities.
                                
    There was a giant Ziroli C-47 at the 1/8 AF Fly-In last weekend powered
    by a pair of G-38's and the 50 lb. beastie flew just great ('til he let
    it get away from him on the ground and ran it into the safety netting
    and poles).
    
    Every Zenoah I've seen started, handled and ran just fine so I wouldn't
    be a bit afraid to recommend them.
						 __
				|      |        / |\	   	       
      	         \|/		|______|__(o/--/  | \	   	       
      | |        00	       <|  ~~~  ____ 04 ---- | --------------------
    |_|_|        (O>o		|\)____/___|\_____|_/	   Adios amigos, Al
      |     \__(O_\_	        |	  |___/	 o	   (The Desert Rat)

   I'll be building a 1/4 scale Aeronca L3-B in the near future(still gathering
   documentation.) Anyway, the original model from the plans I have used a 
   Maloney 125 as it's power plant. Anybody have any details on this engine?
   I saw an ad in RCM from Omni Models that has it available for @$140 dollars.
   I'm still not sure of whether I'll use a glow or a gas powered engine at this
   point. 

Thanks,

-Lamar

    Danger, Danger, alien engine approaching!  (As the robot used to say on
    a certain sci-fi TV series.)  The Maloney 100 or 125, in either form,
    gas or glo, is, in my personal opinion, one of the most useless engines
    ever made.  A friend has/had one and, power-wise, a strong .61 would
    match it at half the weight.
    
    If you think I might be prejudice, read the editorial page of the past
    2-3 R/C Reports by Gordon Banks.  Gordon found the engine almost
    useless even as a paperweight.  A reader wrote to offer a few
    suggestions and Gordon responded that he'd like to try them but,
    unfortunately, the engine, just happened, to have rolled off his desk
    into the trash can and was lost.
    
    A Zenoah G-23 would probably be just about perfect for this plane if
    kept light...otherwise, try the G-38.
						 __
				|      |        / |\	   	       
      	         \|/		|______|__(o/--/  | \	   	       
      | |        00	       <|  ~~~  ____ 04 ---- | --------------------
    |_|_|        (O>o		|\)____/___|\_____|_/	   Adios amigos, Al
      |     \__(O_\_	        |	  |___/	 o	   (The Desert Rat)

Dan Snow sent me a message stating the same thing, it's an expensive paper 
weight. I'll probably go with the G23(if I go gas) or ST2500(if I go glow).
Thanks for the info!

-lamar

last weekend i ran the g62 for the first time.  actually this was my first
experience with a gasser (my chainsaw starts with a pullcord 8^).

my stock g62 came with a choke all installed (i did adapt it for servo
operation).  first problem, when i choked the engine and flipped it, no fuel
moved into the engine.  after some fussing i took the carb off the engine
and noticed that i'd but the adapter on upside down - there is a little hole
thru which crankcase pressure powers the pump built into the walbro carb.
i'd taken it apart days before so i screwed up, not the factory.

so now after a single flip i could see fuel flow towards the carb.  after
several flips fuel was dripping out of the throat of the carb.  another flip
or 2 and the engine "popped".

as per instructions, i opened the choke and closed the throttle to 1/4.  i had
the sopwith pup well-tied to a tree!  i flipped and flipped and nothing.
i went and reread instructions.  it said to start flipping as soon as the
magnetic strips start to cross pickups.  sure enough, the next flip about ripped
my fingers off.

it turns out the starting technique i'd come to love with the glo-bully didnt
work with the g62.  with the bully, i've learned exactly how to prime it, such
that, for the very first flip, i hold the prop with the tips of my fingers and
flip against compression.  even if i dont go over center, the bully starts more
times than not.  it will fire, run backwards for a cycle, fire again just before
going over center, run forwards for a cycle, repeat this a couple of times,
then catch and run.  its always a 50-50 proposition whether its finally running
forwards or backwards.  if backwards, i just reduce throttle till it boings
back and forth and repeat...

anyways, i learned with the g62 that i have to grip the prop firmly, start the
flip when the pickups reach the magnets, and continue the flip thru compression.
i swear the plug fires before tdc and ya gotta muscle the prop over?  scary.
since the engine is not broken in and i've only started it 3 times so far,
these impressions will surely change with experience.

i guess since i'm not using any aftermarket ignition system, the ignition timing
is fixed and optimized for relatively high rpm's.  a timing advance system
would probably improve both starting and high speed.  for now, however, i can
live with it as is.  it ran great on the first tank of fuel.  i havent run it
much yet at high throttle, but it idles and midranges great.  since the g62
should be plenty of power for the pup,  i suspect high end won't matter at all.

i learned that a servo-operated kill switch is completely redundant... if you
already have a servo-operated choke.

i range tested the pup with engine running because i was concerned  about
interference from ignition.  with engine at full throttle (tree was bent over)
and antenae completely removed, i went 75+ yards and never lost signal.  i
did nothing to shield igntion, radio was jr pcm.  this range test was not with
wings and accompanying flying wires attached so range test must be repeated
before flying.  still, encouraging.

had it not been for a comical series of scheduling conflicts and threatening
weather, i'd have flown last weekend.  this weekend i hope.

 

 Good luck Kevin!  Are you gonna' let us know when and where are do
you prefer a 'private' first flight (without the added pressure of 
a group of spectators/supporters)?  

  Could you use a heavy duty electric starter on the G62?  If not, you
might want to get a heavy glove to protect your fingers.  How big a 
prop are you using?


                       Jim

jim,

my only problem with spectators is that its a long drive to orange and there
are many things that could go wrong that postpones the maiden flight attempt.

it could be windy, the pup has a wing loading of only 16oz/sqft.  i won't fly
till the wind is light.

it could threaten to rain, anyone who watched me assemble/disassemble at last
decrcm meeting knows i'm dead meat if it suddenly starts to rain.

i could have some kind of mechanical problem, like the 12 functional wire braces
with 24 threaded couplers.  i made 4 (four!) trips to orange with the jug until
it flew (1 time the tailwheel assembly broke, another time it was the
muffler...).

just last sunday night i called kay and said meet ya in orange in 1 1/2 hours.
i pack truck and drive get, its raining in fitchburg.  i turn around and go home.
call kay.  answering machine.  2 hours later kay calls, he and wife have been
waiting at orange for an hour, weather is beautiful there.  i feel like heel.
argh!

so, if your willing to take your chances by all means give me a call, don't
know what time this weekend.

kevin

	Gentlemen, start your engines...if this would be that easy, no big
	deal. BUT if you have to start such an engine the first time, all
	you've read before is forgotten - just you and your arm.

	Saturday I tried the first time. After sucking the fuel to the carb
	and some more I flipped and flipped and flipped - nothing happened.
	Just this backfiring. After I flipped it over the first top, it 
	obviously fired before it reached the second time the top and turned
	prob backwards. That means more power when flipping, thought I.
	All of a sudden after many trials it started with a super sound.
	Deep, majestic, lots of bass. I like that.

	Swinging the 22x12 at 5800 rpm it develops approx. 20 lbs of thrust.
	Low rpm around 1600, plop-plop-plop. Nice smooth running. 

	The next trial to start the engine I turned on my brain before. This 
	magetic ignition works different than the glow engines. The magnet
	has to be positioned before the kernel of the coil to get a spark.
	What I did was what I was used to - turn the prop to the point where
	you feel compression, then flip - wrong with gasers. The next trials
	confirmed it. 1-2 flips and it runs.
	
	(BTW, after I've written this note I've read Kevin's note  1302.9
	 if brain would work I would have remembered earlier)



	Bernd	 

	I was having trouble with running the ZG62 reliably. It's fixed now
	and I like to tell the story.

	SETUP

	The engine is mounted in hanging position. The muffler is self made
	from 2 gas cans soldered together and mounted behind the firewall 
	inside the fuselage. There are 2 openings (2" dia) for cooling and
	exhaust. There is one opening underside of the fuse for the warm
	air to get out. The carburettor is mounted 90 degree and is sucking its
	air out of the fuse (significant noise reduction).

	PROBLEM

	When running on the ground, the engine performed flawless. Before
	I sealed the hole in the firewall, where the carb sucks the fresh air
	out of the fuse, the engine ran fine inflight.
	After I sealed that hole, the engine died inflight all the time.
	(resulting three deadstick landings) I also did change the angle of
	attack what resulted in a smaller warm air exhaust opening underside
	the fuselage. The engine seemed to lean out.

	CONCLUSION

	In the air, the flight speed adds to a higher pressure inside the 
	fuselage. Before I sealed the hole where the carb sucked the air out
	of the fuse, the pressure ballance must have been somehow okay. 
	After sealing the hole AND reducing the air outlet of the fuse a 
	higher pressure must have been built up what caused the engine to
	lean out.

	FIX

	I soldered a bass tube to that little pressure sensing hole of the 
	shiny carburettor cover and fed it inside the fuse, where the carb 
	sucks the air from. The next flights showed ferfect engine runs.

	ROUGH DRAFT OF THE SETUP                       /
						      /
		engine cowl			     /
						    /
	 __________________________________________/
	(  	  		||
         -------------		|| firewall
   =====|.............|		||/
   	 ____	      | 	||                          fuselage
	 ...|..       |		||                             
	/   |         ______    ||
  engine    |   _____| carb.|_______  Carburettor air inlet
	    |   -----|      |------- 
	    |        '----\\'   ||  / pressure sensing tube 
	    -----------    \========
                                ||          air outlet
         (_________________________________|     |_________
    
    
    
	Holm- und Rippenbruch,   Bernd

    Bernd,
    	I saw an article where a guy had the exact same problem with that
    carb.  It wasn't designed for airplanes and the pressure sensing is
    critical.  Some people had the same problem with the carb inside a
    cowl.  The fix you made is exactly what they described.  I have no idea
    where I saw the article as it was a couple of years ago.  Glad you got
    it running well!
    
    Charlie
    

    
    Charly,
    
    	maybe that was a manual that I brought with me 2 years ago when I
    	was in your area. I was aware of the problem with that pressure
    	sensor but since it worked in the beginning 'thought I would not
    	need it.
    
    	BTW, my setup is exactly the way it's described in that manual - 
    	and it's incredibly quiet. My ENYA .45 4-stroke is much louder.
    	I still have that manual and could send it to 'who ever wants one'.
    

    	Bernd

    Bernd,
    	I have a G38 that I'm about to start running.  I'm putting it on an
    Ultra-Hots that I purchased about a year ago.  I just about have it
    finished, but I'm worried about the noise level of this engine with the
    "muffler" that came with it.  It has two stacks pointing straight down
    with the engine mounted inverted.  I was thinking of adding two
    mufflers to the stacks, but I'm open to any suggestions you have.  I
    also have a smoke system for this engine if I can figure out how to fit
    the extra tank, servo, pump, and valve in the plane.  It's a big plane,
    but it's a mid-wing.  The wing takes up much of the space in the fuse.
    I still have the copy of the G62 Manual you wrote while you were here.
    
    Charlie
    

    Charlie,
    
    	Davis Deisel has a new line of big engine mufflers.  I'me had
    excellent results with the unit I purchased from him.  They tend
    however to be rather expensive.
    
    Tom

    I haven't seen any for Zenoah from Davis.  Also, I won't pay his prices
    which border on outragious.  I want to add something to the muffler
    system I already have since it has the smoke system taps on it.  I
    should be able to hook up to the twin stacks.
    
    Charlie
    

    
    Hello Charly,
    
    I've seen the ZG62 with the original muffler and just a 90 degree
    fitting soldered to the outlet off the muffler. That setting was almost
    as quiet as the one described in that manual you've got. (the original
    ZG62 muffler is bigger than the one from the ZG38)  I however
    don't know about the ZG38 muffler. The article I've read says that the
    original muffler would be somewhat noisy. I would try it first and then
    decide if you need a better one. If you could make the one you've got
    the plans for fit on the 'HOTS, you would have a real quiet one. But
    remember, the carb air inlet is very loud, not to mention the prop if
    you use a too small pitch.
    
    The recommendation for the ZG38 is 18x10-12,19x10,20x10 for pattern style
    airplanes, 20x8,20x9 for a PIPER CUB -type of plane.
    
    BTW, all of those that have heared my setup where real amazed on how
    quiet it is.
    
    
    Hurray to the gazers,  Bernd

    Bernd,
    	The muffler I have is not the stock one.  It's made by B&B for the
    G38 and it's very nice looking, but rather small.  It has two inlets
    for smoke fluid and two exhaust pipes.  I'll try it first, but I expect
    it to be loud.  The carb will be exposed as it won't even come close to
    fitting inside the cowl.  I plan to use an 18x10-12 prop on it as that
    was what was recommended for the HOTS. (I think)  
    	The G38 head is much different than the G62.  The exhaust port is
    on the rear instead of the side.  That limits the space for a muffler
    if you use the available engine mount.
    	I hope to have my plane done and running in another week or so.
    
    Charlie
    

    Charlie,
    		I'm pretty sure "J-Tech" makes a manifold with two
    snuffler mufflers attached for the G38.  Less than the Davis Diesel
    system and less effective. But it still works. I think one of the
    guys in my club has one on his G38 in a cub. I vaguely remember him
    getting 95db with it.
    
    Tom

    Tom,
    	I've seen that setup in the mags.  I may consider it as a last
    resort.  I'll try to make something that I can sling under the fuse
    first.  I have a couple of lawn mower mufflers that are identical to
    the Snuffler mufflers.  (under $3 at HQ)
    
    Charlie
    

    
    To start my ZG62 I always have to suck fuel first before I can start
    flipping the prop. Even if the engine is warm. If I don't it badly hits
    back and can even damage the prop (what happened once). Now a friend
    told me he doesn't need to suck fuel when it's warm. Could this be an
    indication of a too lean idle setting ?  Once the engine is warmed up
    it runs very reliable. Any comments ?
    
    
    Bernd
    
    (Charly, what is the Engine/muffler setup you now use in your Super
     Hots ?)

    Bernd,
    	Your idle mixture is too lean if it has to warm up much before you
    can advance the throttle.  I have to choke mine once with my thumb over
    the carb intake before starting it.  My G38 doesn't seem to kick back
    at all, but I start it with a spring starter.  With the spring, you
    turn the prop 1/2 turn backwards and let it go.  Starts easily and
    saves any chance of wacking your fingers.
    
    I am using a G-38 with a Bennett muffler and a home made aftermuffler
    that was given to me by a friend.  I have ordered a J-Tec muffler that
    I hope will be quieter.  I'm using an 18-8-10 Zinger prop and it's
    turning about 6400 on the ground.  The engine only has about 2 hours of
    run time (1 gal of fuel).  I like the way it flies, but I would like
    more power. (I always like more power!)
    
    Charlie
    

    
    Hello Charly,
    
    I'll try to enrichen the idle, hope that helps. Will tell you next
    time.
    
    I had the J-Tech muffler on the Quadra-35 I once bought (and sold
    meanwhile to a friend). It was the one with an aluminum centerpiece and
    two black pipes (made from steel sheet metal) for upright mounting. 
    I was not too impressed with either performace nor noise reduction, 
    but the prize was high in my opignion. I even believe that the one for 
    the Quadra will fit on the ZG. I just talked to my friend and he would 
    sell his for a real good prize if you would be interested (and be able 
    to cancel your order).
    
    Anyway, if you have space problems, your choise is limited.
    
    Otherwise a tuned pipe would help, the Quadra turned 1000 rvs more on
    the pipe and it's more quite, too.
    

    Bernd,
    	The J-TEC that I ordered was listed as special for the G-38.  The
    engine is mounted inverted and the muffler also points straight down. 
    The exhaust port is on the rear of the engine which is different than
    many of the other gas engines.  Since I have already ordered it from a
    local hobby shop, I'll leave my order in.  Thanks anyway for the offer.
    
    
    I'll let you know how I like the J-Tec when I get it.
    
    Charlie
    

    
    Caused by my crash with the CAP20 the crankshaft of my ZG62 got
    damaged as well as the front bearing. Could someone please tell me
    where in the US I could order spare parts and what a new crankshaft
    (with pushrod) would cost. I might be in the US for 3 weeks starting
    July 12th. The prizes here are around $115.- for it. But because a 
    complete engine in US is around $270.- I expect the crank to be
    somewhat cheaper.
    
    Bernd
    
    (hopefully I get those Gremthings see flying this time...) 

    Bernd,
    	Is pushrod Germain for Connecting Rod - the thing that goes between
    the crank and the piston?  Give me the part numbers from the
    instruction sheet (Leds::Watt) and I'll try to find out some spares
    prices.
    
    Charlie
    

    
    Okay, okay, dummy I ! I actually thought pushrod WOULD be the word, but
    connecting rod it is. The connecting rod is Okay, the crankcase was
    bent. Willi, a colleague of mine and our clubs President got it
    straightened out !  What I now need is the part where the magnets are
    in (flywheel ?). That one is real bent and not to repair ! But I don't
    have a manual with me. Talk to you downstairs, Charly.
    
    
    Bernd

    I placed an order for an A&M 4.2 at the beginning of January and waited
    for a week and a half.  
    
    I called them to see what was taking so long since it had not arrived. 
    They said mine was on the build table and that they had a shortage of
    carbs.  My assumption was that it would'nt be much longer.
    
    
    Time passed again, so I called Monday and they informed me that 4.2's
    would not be ready for shipping until mid-march.  I mumble something to
    the effect "##@$^!" and there was'nt much reaction (as in none) on the
    other end of the line.
    
    So.........
    
    It looks like I'm going to wait a while.  I would'nt mind it as much if
    they would have set my expectations when I ordered.
    
    Chris
    
    One other thing:  The Fitzpatrick .61-ABC I ordered arrived yesterday. 
    It is one nice engine, outstanding workmanship, lifetime warranty, and
    more.  This one is going on my panic.
    
      

    
    For all of you who might be interested in a big engine with extreme low
    vibrations here it comes :
    
    Graupner offers a brandnew OS Wankel with 37.41 CCM (2.28 cubic inch)
    and 4.5 hp !  Recommented props are 20x8 , 18x10. The max diameter of
    the engine is 122 mm (4.8") and the length is 105 mm (4.13"). The
    weight is 1.8 Kg (64 ounces I think). With these measures this engine
    will fit under the smallest cowl. 
    
    The only bummer are the 2250.- DM ($ 1400.-) you have to pay for....
    
    
    Bernd
    

    Well, it appears that A&M/Sachs Aircraft is out of business.  Hence,
    the 4.2 cu. in. engine I ordered back in early January won't be coming.
    
    They have been stringing me and a friend who ordered a 5.8 along for a
    month with excuses.  It really ticked me off when I found out
    yesterday.  
    
    So to make up for it, me and my friend have engines (and lots of
    accessories) coming from B&B Specialties (Dick Bennett).  I'm getting
    their version of the 4.2 and my friend has ordered a Quadra 100 (aka
    5.9 cu. in.).
    
    I'm done with night school as of last week, so I should get back to
    building.  I have a couple of small things to finish and should be
    starting on my 1/3 scale extra 230 within a few weeks.  
    
    

    I have just seen K&B's 1.0 cu in engine for sale for $245 in standard
    and ducted fan versions.  Has anyone heard anything about this new
    offering?  
    
    Regards,
    
    Jim

                                                                        
    
      Jim,
    
        You REALLY DON'T expect anyone to reccommend ANY engine to you
    after what happened with the OS 1.08, do you? :)
    
        FWIW, don't buy the K and B engine :). I hear they rust easily in
    damp basements and the rust will break loose after a few flights and
    damage the piston ring :) :) :)
    
        Bottom line: If I can't safely reccommend an OS engine to anyone
                     there is NO way I would reccommend a K+B engine! :)

    Yeah, take it from me.  Don't buy K&B.  More trouble than they're
    worth.
    
    
    Andy
    

    My inquiry into the K&B is not to supplant the O.S. 1.08.  It is
    one of the few USA made choices of large displacement methanol
    motors available.  
    
    Wasn't the .82 ducted fan motor K&B made for Bob Violett supposed to
    be a pretty good motor.
    
    I would love to spend more of my R/C dollars on USA manufactured goods,
    which is why I am inquiring.
    
    Thanks,
    
    Jim

The Fox .74 is an impressive motor and I believe Fox is still made in the USA
only.