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Conference vmsnet::hunting$note:hunting

Title:The Hunting Notesfile
Notice:Registry #7, For Sale #15, Success #270
Moderator:SALEM::PAPPALARDO
Created:Wed Sep 02 1987
Last Modified:Tue Jun 03 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:1561
Total number of notes:17784

27.0. "Decoys for Duck and Geese" by CSSE::PETERSEN () Thu Sep 17 1987 19:33

    Hi,
    
    I want to start a note concerning the use of decoys, the favorite
    ways of setting them up, ratios of male to female decoys, do you
    put them way out in the middle of the pond, near the edges with
    some in the grass? 
    
    I bought a dozen decoys (6 male 6 hen) 2 years ago and have been
    experimenting on all different kinds of set ups.
    
    What are your favorite decoys and how do you set them out?
    
    Erik.
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27.1exBPOV09::JAMBERSONThu Sep 17 1987 19:4618
    A few quick "rules' on decoys:
    
    Geese-- The more the better. 
            Don't face them all into the wind ,
            Set some sentrys away from the main flock
    
    ducks-- I like an even number of drakes vs hens.  
            I try and pair them up with the drakes to the outside.  
            I like several magnums mixed in for better visibility.  
            Don't bunch them together too much.
    
    in general-- Don't set them too far from the blind.
                 Pay attention to the wind
                 Make sure your lines arn't fouled on the decoy
                 Train you dog to ignore them 8*)
    
    Jeff                                              
    
27.2JSHIVER::RIVERSDIn search of WalterThu Sep 17 1987 19:4920
    I have a dozen Flambou mallards (6 male 6 female) with aqua keels.
    I also have 3 Magnum mallards (1 male 2 female) with weighted
    keels, and I've order a couple of mallard "dippers" (Carrylite).
    
    I usually use the famed "J" pattern for set up.  I haven't really
    experimented with other set ups.  I've heard that putting a few
    geese in your spread will improve your chances when duck hunting.
    Anyone ever try this?  I'd be interested to see if anyone has
    evry tried the Suc-Duks or The Real Decoy.
    
    I even saw an ad for a motorized, remote-controlled decoy that has
    grabbers on the front so that it can go out and retrieve your duck
    for you.  For $1500. I'd pray that no one mistook it for the real
    thing.
    
    I think someday I'd like a nice conventional set of cork decoys.
    (Maybe I'll win the megabucks before the season opens :-)
    
    Dave
    
27.3Pair them off? CSSE::PETERSENThu Sep 17 1987 20:047
    Dave,
    
    Pardon my ignorance, but would care to comment on the J set up.
    
    Is it better to keep the drakes and hens paired off?
    
    Erik
27.4HUTSIX::BONINThu Sep 17 1987 20:349
         
         I'm not sure, but I believe decoy patterns like the J (or
         fish hook) are for sea ducks. 
         
         The puddle ducks that I've watched in public parks always
         sit in *random clusters*, never in some recognizable pattern. 
                                                
         Doug
27.5Mixing sizes of goose decoys?CLUSTA::STORMThu Sep 17 1987 20:457
    Just this week I received my order for a dozen magnum Carry-Lite
    goose decoys (shells).  Can I mix these with the standard sized
    shells?  If I can mix them, should it be random or with the magnums
    in one bunch and the standards in another bunch?
    
    Mark,
    
27.6HUTSIX::BONINThu Sep 17 1987 21:088
                                                        
         While a little variation in the sizes of your decoys would
         probably make your spread look more realistic, I think
         there's too much disparity in size between magnum and
         standard to allow mixing. I'd set them out in separate
         flocks. 
                      
         Doug
27.7BPOV09::JAMBERSONFri Sep 18 1987 11:5315
    I'll usually set my magnums on the outside of the spread.  This
    way they are more visible.  The idea of magnums is that the birds
    can see them from a greater distance.  If there stuck in the middle,
    you defeat the purpose of greater visibility.  Thats the same reason
    that I set my drakes towards the outside, they show up better then
    the hens.
      When goose hunting I'll set upwards to 120 silhouettes, with mayby
    18 full bodys.  So far I haven't noticed any problem in mixing them.
    Again with geese the more numbers the better.
      When setting up layouts for puddle ducks I try to do themin groups
    with a likely landing spot in front of the blind.  I very rarely
    use a set pattern 
      If your going to mix geese and ducks, make sure that they are
    seperated.  They don't mingle together.  Make two distinctive groups.
    Jeff
27.8J variationSHIVER::RIVERSDIn search of WalterFri Sep 18 1987 13:1341
    Re: .3
    
    		This is the "J" pattern used for set-up:
    
    
    
    			X
        		 X
    			  X
    			  X
                          X
                          X
                           X            X
                            X           X
                              X        X
                                  XXX    
    
    		This was designed for sea ducks but if you fill
                the lower part of the J, it will also work for
    		big water hunting other than coastal waters. 
    		This is not an ideal set-up for ponds and small
    		lakes.
    
                         X
                          X
                           X
                           X     X X X
    	                   X  X X X X X  X
                            X  X X X X X X
                             X  X X X X X
                                 X X X 
    
    		(Sorry about the poor pictorals)
    
    
    The blind is generally below the lower section of the J, and you
    need to leave empty sections (alleys) to either side of your blind
    so the dog can get to the downed birds.
    
    
           Dave                       
27.9patternsHELIX::COTHRANFri Sep 18 1987 20:3130
    I generally try to set a few near the opening of the cove, set some
    up close to the grass at an edge of the cove, then spread the rest
    out off to one side, but in front of the blind.  The ducks that
    come in generally come in over the marsh.  When they drop they drop
    in the decoys.  The ducks that come in from the the left, generally
    drop in the open water in front of the blind.  Same is true for
    those that come straight in.  Those that come in from directly behind
    the blind scare the *(&^$ out of us first, then if we can't turn
    them in, they 9 times out of ten go down in the marsh, only to be
    jumped as we end the morning.
    
    I've never really hunted geese regularly, or set out just to hunt
    geese.  So I don't know about decoys for geese, However, that may 
    change this year.  Late last year as my partner and I were leaving the 
    blind to pick up the decoys (guns unloaded), we heard the geese so we 
    settled back down, guns still unloaded.  I've only seen geese fly over 
    this cove at a range a 16mm would have trouble reaching, so we sat 
    and listened with eyes skyward.  19 geese came into the (duck) decoys 
    and sat about 40 yds away, about 15 yds the other side of the decoys.  
    We say watched them for about 15 minutes until they swam out of our 
    site.
        
    The next morning we put up two flock of geese as we entered our
    cove to set up.  Couldn't see them, but would guess between 30 and
    40 with the racket they made as they walked the water to get 
    airbourne.
    
    Anyone have any goose decoys for sale cheep?
    
    Bryan
27.10Ready for duck seasonOLDMAN::CURAVOOFri Sep 18 1987 21:059
    
    I hunted ducks and geese alot when I lived up by Lake Champlain
    but since I transfered to Contoocook,NH haven't done any at all.
    If anybody has some good duck spots up toward the lakes region
    and want to get together for some hunting,let me know. I've got
    a flat bottom boat set up and 2 dozen floating goose decoys 2
    more dozen goose shell decoys and probably 2 or 3 dozen duck
    decoys. Season starts Oct 5 and the old shotgun has alot of
    cobwebs that need cleaning out. 
27.11Well I'll be...SHIVER::RIVERSDIn search of WalterMon Sep 21 1987 14:4615
    
    
    Re: .10
    
    Hey Gary,
    How's it goin' you old seadog?  I've still got that goose call you
    gave me (with a new reed).  Hope to use it at Addison this year
    if I get a permit.  I also tried for Mud Creek.  Spent all afternoon
    with a friend in Swanton taking pictures of ducks coming into our
    decoys.  It was a good way to get ready for the season.
    
    Look me up if you're up this way again.
    
    Dave
     
27.12silhouttes for geeseCROW::STORMMon Sep 21 1987 15:5414
    Jeff, thanks for your response (-.7).  I'm interested to hear that
    you use silhouttes for geese.  I always wondered if the geese would
    get nervous when they saw the silhouttes "disappear" at certain
    angles.  Judging from your note 2.1, that must not be a problem.
    
    I was thinking that silhouttes might be a relatively cheap/easy
    way to increase the size of my spread.  Did you buy or make your
    silhouttes?  If you bought them could you tell me where, I haven't
    seen any for sale anywhere.  If you made them would you consider
    loaning me one to use as a pattern???
    
    Thanks,
    Mark
    
27.13BPOV09::JAMBERSONMon Sep 21 1987 16:4511
    Hi Mark,
      I made my silhouttes.  I made three "models".  Upright, feeders,
    and sleepers.  It's pretty easy to cut out a whole bunch witha saber
    saw on a Sat. morning.  The biggest pain is painting them.  We used
    a sprayer to do it.  Your more then welcom to borrow a couple for
    patterns.  Where are you located?
      Re: disapeering.
    As long as you have them facing different directions they won't
    vanish unless the birds view them from directly over head.  I mix
    in a doz. full bodies anyways.
    Jeeff
27.14MPGS::NEALMon Sep 21 1987 17:097
    Jeff,
    	How do you get the silhouttes to stand up. I made up a bunch
    of them and nailed some dowel (SP) but it seems that they are always
    breaking or falling out. And to think of it, I didnt even make any
    feeders!
    
    Rich
27.15mostly feeders...SHIVER::RIVERSDIn search of WalterMon Sep 21 1987 17:507
    
    I've got a VHS tape on duck & goose hunting.  The fellow who narrates
    it says that you should have a maximum of 2 goose decoys with erect
    heads, the others should all be feeders.  Reason being, if they
    all were heads-up it would signal an incoming flock of impending
    danger (like they were uptight about something).  I'm not a big
    goose hunter but this logic made sense to me.
27.16MPGS::NEALMon Sep 21 1987 18:202
    Oops, it looks like I have to cut there heads off, and nail them
    down.
27.17BPOV09::JAMBERSONMon Sep 21 1987 18:3816
     Rich,
      I nailed and glued some stakes that I made out of strips of wood
    that is 1/2 X 1".  so far I've only broken a few.  The biggest pain
    in the a** is when the ground is frozen.  When thats the case, bring
    a hatchet to loosen the ground.
      Regarding ratio of feeders to uprights. I would guess that I have
    probably 40% feeders, 40% upright, and 20% sleepers.  I think the
    biggest "tip-off' to incoming geese is when people set there spread
    so that everything is facing into the wind and there bunched up.
    This is exactly what the real thing do before they head out.  As
    long as you spread them out and face them in different directions
    I haven't had a problem. Next time you drive ast a golf course that
    has geese check'em out.  I figure a good half of them are looking
    rather then eating.
    
    Jeff
27.18MPGS::NEALTue Sep 22 1987 10:434
    Gee a Jeff ole buddy, do you think its possible that you could
    take some old newspaper and make a outline of one of your feeders
    sleepers, uprights and send it through the interoffice mail to
    Rich Neal SHR1-3/06?
27.198*)BPOV09::JAMBERSONTue Sep 22 1987 12:229
    Hmmmmm  Let me see now.  Oh, I guess so but only if you PROMISE
    never to shoot at any geese that might be flying with in a 70 mile
    radius of any place I have ever hunted or ever dreamed of hunting.  O.K.?
     This includes, but is not limited to the entire Northeastern part
    of the U.S. (with the exception of some minor sections of Boston
    and Ney York City), Maryland, and the rest of the Atlantic seaboard.
    Everything else is alright.  
    Jeff                                         
    
27.20SUREMPGS::NEALTue Sep 22 1987 13:584
    Oh sure,  you have a deal, ;-). Its a good thing you dont know what
    I look like.
    
    Rich
27.21"Another Duck Hunter"NISYSI::ALLOREWed Sep 23 1987 18:2340
                I have been hunting ducks for about 16 yrs. I have a
    small spread of decoys (20). I also have no special pattern that
    I use each time. They are all mallards and blacks (as these are
    the most common species in this area) in numbers that is. The 
    ratio of hens and drakes is about even. I generally set them up
    in the little pockets formed in the marsh grasses and cat-tails.
    As a rule ducks normally land into the wind as this makes it ea-
    sier for them to do so. I try to keep aware of the wind direction
    at all times. This is not always the case though, as I've had them
    land at all directions at any given time. A call is a must. You
    should also be good with it. I've heard some hunters produce sounds
    that scared me! Ducks are not color-blind as some hunters believe
    and can pick out movement and forms at great distances. Usually
    if they flair after a shot it's because they saw the muzzle flash
    or you. I have taken shots at passing ducks and then called them
    back after a pass or two. Of course 9 times out of 10 this isn't
    the case. I guess that's enough rambling for now. I would be hap-
    py to share any knowledge or tips I may have on this subject.
               One more thing (on the subject of honkers) if they are
    flying in the pattern, which follows, don't waste your breath cal-
    ling them. As they are set for a long flight. This comes from a
    study done on them also from a few of my own experiences:
    
            
           ^                                         ^
         ^    ^                                        ^
        ^        ^                                  ^    ^
       ^            ^                              ^       ^
                       ^              or          ^          ^
                          ^                      ^             ^
    
                             ^                  ^
                                ^              ^
                                   ^          ^
     When they start breaking up and flying erratic. This is when they
    are more likely to land or come into your decoys. Hope it helps
    out a little. I'm not a pro by any-means but have gunned my far
    share of waterfowl. Good luck in the field!
    
                                        Bob
27.22BPOV09::JAMBERSONWed Sep 23 1987 19:028
    I couldn't agree more with what Bob said about trying to call geese
    that are in a "V" formation.  Save your breath, there headed for
    parts unknown.  Nothing pi**es me off more then seeing guys take
    shots at geese, or ducks for that matter, that are a good 500 yds
    up.  Then invariably one of them will say "gee, I think I hit that
    lead one".  Jerks.
                
    Jeff
27.23HUTSIX::BONINWed Sep 23 1987 20:4611
         That's not been my experience. Geese always fly in a skeane
         (a V formation), whether they're heading south or making a
         short flight to the local feeding grounds. I've watched
         flocks at the pond across the street from this facility--the
         geese even maintain a skeane during takeoff and landing. 
                                       
         The flocks that won't respond to calling are large,
         high-flying flocks that will probably cover a state or two
         before nightfall. 
         
         Doug
27.24BPOV09::JAMBERSONThu Sep 24 1987 12:1311
        First, geese don't always fly in a V formation.  Alot of times
    when they're trading from one pond to another they'll fly in a _very_
    loose formation, if any at all.  When there flying in formation
    at a high altitude, they're 9 times out of 10 headed for somewhere
    and all the calling in the world isn't going to bring'em down. 
    I think altitude is the determining factor on whether or not you
    stand a chance of calling them in.  While I've yet to see a high
    altitude flock flying in anything but a V formation, I've seen working
    geese fly in everything from a V, to no formation at all.
    Jeff
    
27.25try video infoOLDMAN::MOLLOYThu Sep 24 1987 14:1712
    i rented a 3M duck and goose hunting video the other night.  along
    with lots of other information was a short dicussion on goose flying
    patterns.  in general the 'v' is the travelling formation.  where
    as a straight line either parallel or at 90 to the direction of
    flight is the formation of geese either going to or returning from
    feeding.  this is the pattern to follow, geese will return to the
    same feeding area generally at the same time each day unless disturbed
    or the food runs out.                       
    
    i would recommend the video to any neophyte duck/goose hunters.
    
    regards.....john
27.26COMMENTS ON THE "J" DECOY APPROACHISWISS::MCFARLANDFri Sep 25 1987 16:3716
    
    I HAVE BEEN HUNTING DUCKS AND GEESE IN THE PARKER RIVER REFUGE (PLUM
    ISLAND) FOR YEARS. THE MOST EFFECTIVE DECOY FORMATION I  USE IS
    THE "J" DESIGN. TWO POINTS TO REMEMBER: 1. THE "J" END SHOULD BE
    INTO THE WIND, AND 2. PUDDLE DUCKS (VS SEA DUCKS) WILL NOT FLY OVER
    A "J" FORMATION WHEN DECENDING FOR A LANDING. THEW WILL SWING AROUND
    THEM. AGAIN I"M HUNTING IN THE SALT MARSHES AND SET MY DECOYS IN
    POTHOLES. 
    
    BY THE WAY THERE ARE THREE AREA"S TO HUNT IN. ONLY ONE REQUIRES
    A BOAT. THAT AREA IS THE MOST PRODUTIVE. YUP YOU QUESSED IT I DON"T
    HAVE A BOAT. SO I CAN ONLY DREAM ABOUT ALL THAT ACTION GOING ON
    AROUND ME WHILE I HUNT IN THE LESS PRODUCTIVE AREAS.
    
                                   FRANK
    
27.27Wrong DecoysCGVAX2::HATFIELDMon Oct 19 1987 13:575
    You guys are all wrong on your approach.What you want to do is find
    some mannequins, dress them up and put some golf clubs in their
    hands. The last few week-ends I've been golfing and seen all kinds
    of geese and ducks land right next to me.
    Do you think they know?
27.28IS BIGGER BETTERGCANYN::JOLLYMOREWed Oct 28 1987 11:1211
      I tried goose hunting about two weeks ago fore the first time
    in a corn field and got hooked. No I didn't get any geese.
    
      What I need to no is on decoys the advertise the carry-lite shells
    in standard, magnum, and super magnum. Are there any advantages
    in one size over the other and do the larger ones  justify the price
    difference between them?
    
    Bill
    
    
27.29Yes and noBPOV09::JAMBERSONWed Oct 28 1987 11:3811
    Good question 8*).  The idea behind oversize decoys is that they
    can be spotted by the real birds from a greater distance.  I believe
    tht with geese, numbers mean more then size.  I would rather have
    4 doz magnums then 2 doz supers.  Personally I think the best spread
    is to have as many regulars as you can afford, and then put some
    supers around the perimeter of your spread.  That way they are visible
    and _may_ turn far away flocks, but you still have the "safety in
    numbers" look. 
      Another factor to remember is that you got to transport all those
    dekes to and from the field.
    Jeff
27.30Numbers TalkHUTSIX::BONINWed Oct 28 1987 12:4121
         I agree with .29. Go with the standard size decoys and get
         more decoys for your money. 
         
         I recently read an article that argued for numbers over size
         for both ducks and geese. The author successfully used a
         large spread of duck decoys that were no bigger than a man's
         hand. 

         Another advantage of oversize decoys is with floaters; they
         ride more realistically on rough water. I assume your talking
         about field geese decoys so that's not a consideration. 
                                     
         I'm not sure about the suggestion that you place some
         oversize decoys on the outside of you spread, it can't hurt
         though. However, I know that keeping the heads, stakes, and
         bodies of one decoy separate from another is an annoying
         problem, especially at 5am. For years we had a few field
         decoys from another manufacturer mixed in with our spread of
         G+H decoys--the oddballs were a nuisance. 
         
         Doug                    
27.31Who all makes Decoys?VELVET::GATHWed Oct 28 1987 13:3334
    
    O,K here is a question that I am trying to find the answer to.
    
    How many different manufactures are there and what are there addresses.
    
    I am seriously looking to invest somme money in decoys but a list
    of manufactures and address if they sell direct would be use full
    
    Some of the  manufactures I know of are.
    
    Carry-lite
    Quack
    Cabella's has some of there own
    Cork decoys which are really supose to good but expensive.
    also recently I saw an add for a company in Maine
    Lord's Cove Decoy Works
    Box 192
    Brookville Me. 04617  207 -326-8247
    
    What I am looking to do is write to as many of these places and
    try and do some comparison ( sp ) shopping.
    
    So if you know of any decoy manufactures and if you can supply
    an address or telephone number it would be apreciated.
    
    Another topic for discussion would be what should the break downs
    be by breed. Example 2 dozen mallards, 1dozen blacks, half doz,
    woodies.  
    
    An old expression (Birds of a feather stick togeather ) applies
    I am sure.
    
    What good books can you recommend on setting out and decoying water
    fowl?
27.32BPOV09::JAMBERSONWed Oct 28 1987 13:388
    Re: books
      Decoys and How to Rig Them
    by Ralf Coykendall (sp)
      
     Great book on setting out decoys.  
    
    I 've bought most of my stuff through Cabela's, good service and
    good prices.
27.33A couple moreSHIVER::RIVERSDHome of fluorescent cowsWed Oct 28 1987 13:4413
    
    
    The 2 that stand out in my mind are Carry-Lite and Flambeau.  I've
    got both kinds.  The Carry-Lites are older weighted keel types that
    have held up well and look real good.  The Flambeaus are newer and
    are kind of small.  The paint isn't really sticking very good either.
    I'll look for addresses.  Herter's also market their own I believe.
    
    As far as mixing decoys;  I'd go with 3-1 or 4-1 (mallards-blacks).
    Woodies would be just a few put in a small pothole all by their
    lonesome.                                                      
    
    Dave
27.34try L.L.BeanOLDMAN::MOLLOYThu Oct 29 1987 11:4820
    i bought a dozen mallards from ll beans,  they were cheaper there
    than any other place i could find.  for example
    
            ll beans            cabela's
    
              28.00              28.95         12 mallards aqua keel
                n/a               3.95         shipping
             ------             ------   
              28.00              32.90         total
                               
    there is the same approx. savings on "carry-lite" goose field shells.
    i also prefer the service at bean's.  on the other side cabela's
    has a much larger selection.  bottom line get your name on every
    mail order list you can and go shopping at the kitchen table.
    
    ps. the same 12 decoys at local retail outlet add $18-$20 so plan
    ahead.
    
    regards...john
    
27.35Replacement HeadsDELNI::G_FISHERWed Jan 13 1988 20:2610
    I recently inherited some carrylite canadian geese shells. However,
    they do not have heads. Can anyone point me to a possible supplier
    for replacement heads for carrylite shells?
    
    The Cabelas, Gander Mountains etc do not seem to carry just the
    heads.
    
    Thanks,
    
    Guy
27.36Yea, me tooCLUSTA::STORMTue Jan 19 1988 13:495
    I'd be interested in that too, since I've lost a few of mine along
    the way.
    
    Mark,
    
27.37no luck yetSKIVT::RIVERSDOops, pocket fuzz!Wed Jan 20 1988 10:5811
    I went through all my hunting catalogs and can't find a listing
    for replacement heads for Carrylite shells.  I checked Bean's,
    Dunn's, Wing Supply, Gander's, Cabela's, American Waterfowler,
    Herter's, etc.  I found replacement heads for Herter's dekes but
    they won't fit.  I suggest that you try contacting Carrylite
    directly.  They may be able to help you out.
    
    Good luck,
    
    Dave
    
27.38I'll callDELNI::G_FISHERThu Jan 21 1988 14:324
    I will contact them directly and post any results here. Thanks for
    the feedback.
    
    Guy
27.39Call Carrylite DirectlyDELNI::G_FISHERThu Jan 21 1988 19:2613
    Here is the scoop. You can only get replacement heads for your goose
    decoys from Carrylite directly. None of their distributors carry
    them. I called and they were very friendly and helpful.
    
    Their number (in Wisconsin) is 414 355-3520.
    
    You need to know what size decoys you have; standard - 24", magnum
    - 32", or super magnum - 42". They sell them to you at their cost
    (in the case of the standard decoy, it is $2.00 per head). They
    have both sentry and feeding heads. They ship them UPS C.O.D.
    
    Guy
    people at Carrylite for replacement heads
27.40oops!DELNI::G_FISHERThu Jan 21 1988 19:281
    sorry for the garbage at the bottom of the previous reply.
27.41CLUSTA::STORMTue Jan 26 1988 17:034
    Great!  Thanks for posting the info.
    
    Mark,
    
27.42Weather's effect on Geese movement?CLUSTA::STORMTue Jan 26 1988 17:179
    I've had rather limited experience with geese and would like to
    hear what other people have found to be weather's effect on their
    movement.  For instance, do they decoy better before, during, or
    after a snow storm?  Does high wind effect their movement (other
    than the direction they land in)?
    
    Thanks,
    Mark
      
27.43silhouttes for geese29067::G_ROBERTSWed Jan 27 1988 17:4615
    
    re: 12 and 14
    
    I made my silhouttes out of 1/8" tempered fiber board sheets and
    had a friend at a sheet metal shop make some stakes for me from
    .060 x 14" long x 2" wide then folded over in a die to 1" wide.
    One end was cut at an angle to stick in the ground and two holes
    are drilled futher up about 6" apart and then rivit the stake to
    the silhoutte.  This works very well when the ground is frozen.
    Paint the silhoutte what ever color and the lower part of the stake
    black.  As for disappearing silhouttes, as mentioned they should
    face every which direction and I tilt them somewhat left or right.
    If anyone is interested, I have built a very good pit cover that
    will also concel two hunters on flat, dry ground.  Contact me if
    interested.
27.44More on SilhouettesDELNI::G_FISHERWed Jan 27 1988 20:2511
    I just came back from a goose hunting trip on Maryland's Eastern 
    Shore and the silhouettes they used were neat. To prevent the problem
    of the decoy disappearing as the birds fly over, they cut a horizontal 
    slot into the body of the decoy (from the back) and slide a piece of 
    wood into the slot. The new piece is shaped like the body of a goose 
    (if you were flying over looking down) and painted the correct color.
        
    As the birds fly over all they see are full body dekes. Simple idea 
    that won't add much weight.

    Guy
27.45How was it?BPOV09::JAMBERSONThu Jan 28 1988 11:317
Guy,
    How did you do down there?  I've heard rumours that the hunting
    has fallen off quite a bit over the last couple of years.  This
    is thouhgt to be due tto the geese "short stopping" in there migration
    south.  Just wondering what your impression was?
    Jeff
    
27.46Eastern Shore GeeseDELNI::G_FISHERThu Jan 28 1988 15:1625
    
    Monday (Jan 18), the weather was terrible; rain and fog so thick
    you couldn't see beyond the end of your gun barrel. We could hear
    em, but couldn't see them.
    
    Tuesday the weather was fine and the birds were flying...flying
    right past us into a posted soybean field. I'd conservatively 
    estimate that we saw 10,000 birds. These birds obviously had been
    hunted hard and were pretty smart. And once there were a couple
    hundred "live" decoys in the soybeans...forget it...we couldn't
    compete.
    
    So...two days and we didn't fire a shell. From what I heard others
    had similar resuts. One or two here and there. I guess it gets tough
    at the end of the season. 
    
    We had a good time. The guides were excellent. You can learn alot
    about goose hunting from someone who's been do it for twenty odd
    years.
    
    I imagine our own coastal geese here must get pretty tough to decoy
    by the end of our season. Anyone take any late season birds?
    
    
    Guy
27.47Decoys in lilly padsCHRLIE::HUSTONMon Oct 21 1991 11:0035
    
    I have just started Duck hunting again and have a question on 
    decoy setup.
    
    The place I hunt is a small, slow moving river surrounded by
    swamp grass and a few cattails. There are lots of lilly pads in
    the water and under the water are lots of weeds. The majority
    of the ducks in this place is slowly changing. At the beginning 
    of the season (NH) it was almost exclusively Wood Ducks, now it
    is changing to include mallards and blacks and some woodies.
    
    Anyway, we have about 12 mallard decoys and 2 feeder decoys. We have
    been trying to setup the decoys in a mini-J with the Feeders on
    the bottom of the J. This setup has seemed to work at most times. 
    
    One thing I have noticed lately though is that the ducks seem to
    be passing over the decoys instead of landing in them. The place
    we set them up has lots of lilly pads and little open water.
    
    Will the ducks land among the lilly pads, or should we re-locate
    to a spot with more open water?   The wood ducks never land in the 
    decoys, when they come into them, they seem to be trying to land
    either just short or just past them. they are noticing the decoys
    and coming to them since we have seen them set there feet, then pull
    up and re-set them closer to the decoys.
    
    Mallards are circling and landing a little away then swimming in. 
    Makes for easy shooting when we jump them,  but it is nice to see 
    them come in with set feet, then taken them.
    
    Will ducks land in the lilly pads or should the decoys be set in more 
    open water without lilly pads?
    
    --Bob
    
27.48My $.02 worthCARROL::LEFEBVREAnd this just in...Mon Oct 21 1991 11:3940
    This is a very timely note as we're setting up in a very similar area
    and are experiencing the same phenomenon.  Essentially, we're setting
    out a dozen or less black/mallard dekes, including 3 feeders.  We have
    full view and shooting lanes straight ahead, but limited shooting to
    the sides, so idealy we'd like to have the ducks break and land in
    front of us.
    
    Having said that, there simply is not enough water or air space for any
    ducks to break and land amidst our dekes.  However, we're set up in a
    cove that's about 300 yards from the open water.  We've noticed over
    the last 2 hunts that regardless of the wind direction, there's just
    not enough room for the bigger ducks to land.
    
    What we've done differently is to keep absolutely still when the ducks
    approach.  We also refrain from calling once we feel that ducks have
    seen the decoys.  9 times out of 10, the ducks would circle a few
    times.  As they circle and check out the dekes, I use a soft feeder
    call.
    
    This has worked with great success.  Yesterday, a flock of mallards
    flew over the tree tops and tried unsuccessfully to land in our dekes
    due to the reasons mentioned.  After a few feeder calls, I said to my
    buddy that they'll likely land in the bigger water and swim over.
    
    Sure enough, we see the ducks rounding the corner towards us about 300
    yards away.  I managed to coax them over with feeder calls.  I should
    note that these mallards were literally sprinting to join our dekes.
    
    We bagged a greenhead and a hen, so the patience paid off.  We added a
    black drake later using the same method.
    
    In short, keep the dekes spaced apart, don't use too many in cramped
    quarters, and don't bee overly concerned with the formation.  Just keep
    them spread apart and visible to ducks flying directly overhead.  And
    most importantly, don't overdo it with the calling.  Once the ducks see
    the dekes, resort to feeder calls.
    
    It may not be the best way, but this certainly works for us.
    
    Mark.