Conference vicki::boats

    I have a 1976 SRV220 with a 190 HP OMC outdrive. The engine is a
    Ford 302 industrial engine. The hull is the OV220 (see it in the
    serial number.) SRV simply means Sea Ray Vessel. My boat has a cuddy
    cabin bow, stove/icebox/sink/helm on the starboard, dinette/bed
    on the port. The boat has been all over the New Jersey/ New York
    area in both salt and fresh water. It is extremely dry, comfortable
    and reliable. I used approx 20 gallons of fuel to go from Bridgeport
    Conn - Perth Amboy New Jersey via the East river and New York harbor
    at approx 3,000 Rpm. The boat is heavy and trim tabs are a must.
    It has a hardtop with two sets of windshields, camper canvas and
    a mooring cover.
    
    I have pulled waterskiers with others aboard, and we had a bunch
    on it in Barnegat (right Rich?) It has smacked docks, run aground
    and still looks good. I paid $8500.00 three years ago for it.
                   

    Re. .1,
    
    Thank you. It sounds as if these boats share the same hull (I didn't
    copy down the serial number), but differ in the way they are fitted up,
    and have different outdrives. Your's has a hardtop and a cabin, this
    one is basically a big runabout with a cuddy. But since they are
    otherwise so similiar I am glad that you could offer some valuable
    information!
    
    I wonder if Mercruiser used the same "industrial" engine as OMC did?
    
    I am taking it for a sea trial tomorrow, anything that I should
    look for on this particular hull/powerplant/outdrive?
    
    john

I have a 1974 SRV220 with the 188 Merc which I've owned since 1976.
The 188 is baseed on the Ford 302. I rebuilt the engine myself in 1980.
It had been having overheating problems and started to sound bad. There
were a couple of reasons for the noise, the crank was worn and the
inside of the cylinders were worn out of round. I discovered the source
of the overheating problem and the resulting wear in a Car Craft magazine
article on 302's. The artcle explained that you can use 351 heads on 302's
to get better breathing, but you must be careful because some year's of
351 heads had cooling passages that don't match the 302 block. They listed the
serial number range of the heads. I checked mine and low and behold I had
351 heads in the offending range. I checked the cooling passges and the
the middle one on the inside of each did not join. The prescribed fix was
to drill new cooling passages in the head (a single 9/32 hole in each).
I did it and completed the rebuild. The engine has been running smoothly
(and cool) ever since. In checking with Merc, the said that they did use
351 heads for some time in the 188, but that the problem that I had found
couldn't be true. I guess support has the same problems all over...

This was my only problem with this boat. I have used it in both fresh water
(Winnipesaukee) and the salt (Cape Cod and Nantucket) and enjoyed it a
great deal. If the engine is sound, I would go for it.

Dave

    I wish I could change the title, it is a SRV220, SS# does contain 220CC. 
    
    I had a turn at the helm of this boat. Overall pretty nice, for it's
    age. Thanks to the remarks here and in the general note on testing out
    used boats (note #429), I feel pretty good about it. I left a
    conditional deposit on the agreed upon price of $6200. 
    
    I didn't get a chance to experience it in the ocean, there was very
    little gas in it (or the gauge was broken) and the marina's tanks were
    being replaced. There was a good wind and chop in the cove and we ran it
    against our own wake on top of that. I hope to get it out on the ocean.
    
    Everything appeared and felt sound and solid (exceptions listed below),
    with acceptable wear and tear for the age. All (except gas gauge?)
    instruments seemed to work, and the temperature gauge never rose above
    the mid-point at anytime. 
    
    Exceptions: 
    
      Windshield was slightly loose at base, assumed it can be tightened from
      below, but interior fabric (which appeared could be removed with
      screws) was covering that area.
    
      One seat base was missing anchor screws on one side.
    
      The latch button on the anchor locker was really stuck, got it open.
    
    The exceptions on the electrical accessory side of things:
    
      I never saw water leave the bilge pump, though I could hear it running
      (I also may not have not known where to look, though I should have
      heard any water going over the side). I don't know if this should worry
      me, these pumps aren't really all that expensive to replace and the one
      in my friend's boat doesn't seem to pump instantly, and not at all even
      when there is water in the bilge but below a certain level.  There was
      some water in the bilge. It's been only semi-covered in the rain. 
    
      The spot light lights and move horizontally, but not vertically.
                      
      Possible gas gauge problem, I plan to bring 5 gallons and pour it in to
      see if it registers.
    
    From what I could tell the engine seems to be fine, as does the
    outdrive. It ran well, didn't act up. In tight turns there were no
    strange noises or vibrations. Everything seemed as it should. I have a
    question though. In a steady, slow turn, I felt a slight on and off tug
    at the wheel, sort of a lessening and increasing pressure against my
    turning of the wheel. It was subtle, but there. The person riding with
    me said it was normal - a torque reaction, that can be somewhat
    compensated by adjusting a small fin on the outdrive. From what I can
    remember when driving me friend's boat it did the same thing, so the
    dealer might be telling the truth here. 
    
    This boat is being brokered through a small, established marina (Goose
    Hummock in Orleans). The dealer claims that the owner of the boat is a
    friend of the family that owns Goose Hummock, that it is of known good
    condition, that it was run on Lake Winnipesaukee except for one year in
    Wellfleet harbor. As I have said before, this boat's overall condition
    seems to reflect that (in my humble opinion), and one other thing, the
    anchor, it's way too small for ocean use, and was probably too small
    for that lake too.
    
    My unbiased observer was my father-in-law, and liked it. He approved,
    which is unusual for him. He does have an eye for problem cases. 
    
    john 
    

With regard to exceptions:

Windshield - It is quite simple to get at the windshield. The interior panels
come off easily exposing the mounts. At one point, I removed mine and
recaulked it. Besides making it water tight again, it elimiated the rattles.

Seats - The seat mounting on this and many other runabouts is a weak point
(especially for ocean use). When mine broke off completely on a trip to
Nantucket, I replaced them with buckets on pedestals mounts.
I used large anchors to secure the base since I cannot get under the flooring.
Worked great!

Bilge pump - Easy an inexpensive to replace if needed.

Gas guage - Its usually a problem with the sending unit in the tank. Mine was
simple and inexpensive to replace when it went.

Steering tug - Yes, I recall that mine did something similar under some
conditions. I once had this and another related vibration checked, thinking
that it might be a u-joint problem, but all was well. I don't think that
adjusting the trim fin will do anything for this. The fin is designed to
compensate for the tendancy of the boat to pull to one side, due to torque.
It should be adjusted to provide the desired feel when going straight at
cruising speed.

Enjoy!
Dave

    Thank you for your input again Dave, your first hand experience is very
    helpful. I wasn't too worried about the imperfections I found, but
    noted them in case any were known signs of a more expensive problem.
    
    I have arranged for a surveyor to look at the boat (cost: $130), to
    estimate the cost of any problems, so I know what I am in for. The first 
    expenses are, a new cover, the old one is very bad, and a bigger anchor. 
    
    I couldn't check the seat situation throughly enough to determine if the
    screws pulled out due to a rotting condition, or just because, as you
    say, these seat systems are a weak point. (I just want to say though,
    that the track-adjustable and laying down mechanism is a lot better
    than the typical folding mechanisms that I have seen on most boats.)
    
    It seemed a remote possibility that the windshield mounting holes may
    be cracked, or worn, in some typical manner so the windshield couldn't
    be tightened down without [expensive] repair to the top of the cabin.
    BTW - it wasn't loose enough to rattle with the center glass in place,
    it was something that I felt when tugging at all the hardware attached
    to the deck and hull. 
    
    Since I didn't see a way to get under the floor, and there seemed to be
    no hatches over the fuel tank, I wasn't sure how easy (expensive) it
    would be to replace the fuel gauge sending unit if that is what it was.
    I am happy to hear you say that is was easy and not too expensive.

    john

    
    RE: Bilge Pump and Fuel Gauge.
    
    Since the boat is being brokered thru a dealer I would see
    if you can work some sort of deal with the dealer to have
    him fix these things when you are discussing the final sale
    price.  A bildge pump and fuel gauge are two items that you
    really want to have working before you head out into the
    water.  They may be inexpensive items to replace, but rarely
    are either of these objects in a convenient place to work on
    them.
    
    RE: checking out the gas guage.
    I do not know how big of a gas tank you have but 5 gallons MAY
    not be enough to really move the needle much if there is a 
    50+ gallon gas tank.
    
    Good luck,  sounds like you are doing the right things.
    Mike
    

    I can report now that the bilge pump works. I guess that there wasn't
    enough water in it before for the bump to work. There was quite a bit
    of rain water in it and the bilge pump quickly pumped it out. Although
    it stops pumping when the water reaches the tops of the intake grille
    slits, which is normal I guess.
    
    The gas gauge also seems to work. If it really doesn't the top of the
    gas tank is easily accessible by removing four screws holding a teak
    step leading to the cuddy. The sending unit is there to clean the
    connections or replace it.
     
    The windshield mounting bolts are easy to reach after removing the
    interior panel.  The bolts are a bit loose, there is nothing wrong with
    the deck they are mounted to. 
    
    The Sea Ray seems to be well made, but there are shortcuts. For
    instance, the loose seat I mentioned. The cross beams on the bottom
    of the seatbase are screwed solidly into floor (except for one screw
    that was leveraged out), but the square box base is merely stapled
    to the cross pieces. What happened is that the base was pulled from
    the cross pieces. They'll be screwed to them (the cross pieces may
    have to be replaced - no big deal).
    
    It has a very nice "White Cap" brand top, it extends to allow seating
    all the way to the rear (I'm not sure if this is a camper canvas, but
    it isn't a "fastback" style which doesn't allow sitting in the rear. 
    I put it up to check it out.
    
    john

    Well, it's about to happen. I've arranged the finances to buy this one and
    plan to have it in the water Saturday. I went to Bliss last night and
    got stuff that wasn't on the boat, like a chart, distress signals, a
    boathook, and oars for the dinghy. One of the big problems was where to
    keep the boat. Accepting the axiom that you want the boat in the water,
    you don't have to many choices. Mine were: 
    
    1. Tow it. The problem is that I have no hitch on my car, the boat and
    trailer are really pushing the limits of the car. Minimum cost $370 for
    hitch and trailer stuff installed plus $160 for new springs and airlift
    shocks on the car. That doesn't include load equalization stuff. Also
    the trailer's surge brakes need work, that would have to be done right
    away. With 2 or 3 below I could put that off for a month or two since
    the dealer will put it in the water for me. 
    
    2. Moor it. The problem is availability of mooring space in Harwich.
    Almost all locations have long waiting lists. Minimum cost: one time
    $370 for anchor, chain, and float + $25 (annual fee) to the town.
    
    3. Slip. Cost and availability are the big problems. Harwich has
    ten year slip waiting lists. Marinas are $880 (for a rack) to $2200
    per year. 
    
    I didn't have the chance to look into every possible option for keeping
    the boat handy. Option 1 was my last choice, option 3 was just too
    expensive. I concentrated on finding a mooring space. I got one for
    Pleasant Bay in Harwich. The pluses are that it is protected from the
    open ocean, offers a pretty big area in which to run and gain salt
    water experience without having to venture into the real ocean, and can
    be used on days the ocean is too rough. The draw backs are that it is
    on the other side of town from my place in Harwich (about 22 minutes,
    depending on tourists and retirees), getting in and out of the bay may
    be tight at low tide, it'll be a long row from where you can park to
    the boat, and though protected from the open ocean the bay is big
    enough that it is nothing like a harbor or a cove it terms of
    protection. But it was all that was available in Harwich.
                                                                 
    This could turn into quite an adventure. I'll have to bring the mooring
    to the harbor master for inspection, go back to the boat, find fuel,
    get the boat from Nauset harbor to Pleasant Bay, and get the mooring in
    the water in the right place.
    
    Wish me luck, and thanks for the help on this decsion. I know I'll
    be back for advice on the problems I'll have.
    
    john

    I'll take a guess before I look at the various tilt controls described
    in my manuals... Most I/O's have a trim limit switch which prevents
    trimming up beyond a certain number of degrees (the number 22 come to
    mind, but that could be wrong)...well anyway, from your description 
    that both buttons have to be held to tilt the motor I think the
    top button is the "trim" up switch..that is, its wired thru the trim
    limit switch so you can trim without exceeding the maximum angle the
    outdrive should be run at under normal operation.  BTW, this is normally 
    adjustable. 
    
    The "two buttons together" is called on other controls, the "trailer"
    switch allowing for full up tilt of the unit.