Conference vicki::boats

	Being a re-entrant (after many o/b years) back into the I/O world
I was wondering, Do most I/O owners remove/have their outdrive's removed
EVERY YEAR (as specified) to check & grease the gimball berring??  Back
10 years ago (my last I/O) I used to remove it every 3rd season just because
I was setup to perform maintenance (had a chainfall and related special tools)
I never had any problems with the driveshaft berings fo the 5 years I owned
the boat.

	My 5.7L (OMC) manual state's that EVERY YEAR this operation should
be performed.  What is the consenous of the NETboaters...

	Cheers

	Garry

    Hi,
        I hope some of you experienced boaters can help me out.  I bought
    a 17 ft Stingray with a 130 hp I/O Mercruiser a few weeks ago. 
    The skiing has been great, but I've got to start thinking about
    maintenance !  The dealer said to bring it back after 30 hours for
    service.  He said it would cost around $100.  Can anyone tell me
    what they do ?  Can I do it myself.  I have the same question for
    winterization.  Is it really that big a deal ?  I hate to have to
    bring it to a dealer unless absolutly necessary.  Should I order
    the manuals (and if so where can I get them)?
    
        I'd appreciate any input you can give.
          
    
    Denise

    I have taken my 230 mercruiser to stoneham boat center the last
    2 years (engine is an 86) and had them do the winterizing and
    pull and store the lower unit. So far no problems so I guess it
    works. Seems like cheap insurance to have a ready to go engine
    come spring.
    
    Bruce

    
    I do the winterization myself, so far anyway.  I ordered the manuals
    for my OMC I/O and they have step by step instructions of what
    needs to be done.  I did mine last year and had no problems at all.
    My dealer gets $150 for winterization.
    
    The only thing that may be beyond the scope of us DIYers, is the
    removal of the drive to check the alignment.  A special tool is
    required and adjustments are made by via the motor mounts.  I didn't
    do mine last year because mid-season the dealer had it off to check
    something else.  But this year I'm not quite sure what I'm going
    to do yet.  A friend of mine had this alignment tool made up at
    a machine shop.  OMC calls for shaft alignment every season.  Not
    sure about Merc, but my guess is they probably also require it.
    
    Parts manual as well as service and operators manual are priceless.
    
    
    Bob
    

              <<< VICKI::CVG$DATA0:[NOTES$LIBRARY]BOATS.NOTE;1 >>>
                              -<   PowerBoats   >-
================================================================================
Note 100.5                       I/O Maintenance                          5 of 5
SEDJAR::MALCOLM                                      10 lines  15-AUG-1988 15:19
                              -< Gimbal Bearings >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------

    RE: .1
    
    I would recommend doing the gimbal bearing every year. I had the
    dealer winterize my 7.5 Liter OMC King Cobra last fall. Servicing
    the gimbal bearing was not part of their normal winterization. The gimbal
    bearing was just replaced July 31. Love that 4Winns 3 year warranty
    :^). The boat is an 87, and had approximatly 225 hours at the time. 
    If you use the boat less, it may not be necessary every year. 
    I know I'll have mine done at least once a year from now on.
    
    Scott  
    

    
    RE: .5
    When you speak of a 3 year 4winns warranty on 87 boats do you mean
    just the OMC powered products ? A friend had a problem with the
    U-joints going bad first time he used the boat this spring. A total
    of about 40 hours on the 185 hp Mercruiser (V6), dealer says tough
    luck,  $300 bucks.

    RE: .6
    
    Did he have it winterized?  As far as I know, 4 winns covers both
    Omc and Merc with the extended warranty. At least last year when
    I bought mine, both the Omc and Merc were the same price with the
    3 year warranty. Maybe the dealer was playing games? Was it a 4Winns
    dealer? Was it where he bought the boat?  
    
    Scott

    
    RE: .6
    
    Yes it was winterized by the selling dealer.
    Yes it is a 4Winns dealer.
    Yes it was the selling dealer he brought it to.
    Yes I suspect the dealer is playing games.

	My friend had such good luck dealing with these people he asked me
to post this message to the net.  Hope it saves someone's "transom"!


Rebuilders of Starters and Alternators
--------------------------------------
		Automotive Components of New England
		120 Central St.  (Rear of Bldg.)
		P.O. Box 484
		Hudson, Ma. 01749
		(Two minutes from 495 heading east on 62)
 
		Prop. Wallace A. Howard Jr.
 
Automotive Components of New England, Inc. is in the business of rebuilding
starters, solenoids, generators and alternators for land and marine use.
They do this on a mass production basis.
 
HOWEVER...
 
I called these guys looking for an inexpensive way to get my boat up and 
running; my starter had failed.  They told me to bring it down anytime, and
they'd check it out.  I brought it down THAT DAY.  They tested it, it was
busted.  I left it there.  They had it rebuilt by 4:00 THE NEXT DAY.  My 
boat was up and running without missing a day of fun in the sun.  (It rained
the two days the boat was down.)
 
That all happened in May.  In July, I had starter problems again.  I took
the starter back, and the guys rebuilt it again with no questions asked.
They told me why it had failed again, and instead of rebuilding it to the
manufacturers' specs the second time, THEY MADE IT BETTER - At no charge !
The second failure was not the result of their work.  I have had no more 
starter problems, and expect none ever again on that boat.
They were also extremely helpful in suggesting troubleshooting techniques in
diagnosing the cause and ways to prevent the thing from failing any more.
 
 
In this day and age where you can't trust most of the people who perform
maintenance and services to keep their Customer's best interest in mind,
these guys stand out as Superior in keeping a happy customer a happy customer.
 
I highly recommend this outfit to any do it yourself mechanic who can get 
him/her self to the point of finding the defective component, and knows 
that a good rebuilt part is as good, of not better than, a new one.

    Chelmsford Auto Electric also rebuilds marine starters,
    alternators, etc.  They rebuilt my starter in June in
    less than twenty-four hours, and no problems so far...

    I was glad to find them as a new starter was $300+

    	- Lee

    DECO Electric, Rt 102, Hudson, N.H.
    
    They have rebuilt starters and OMC tilt motors for me, including
    motors for '60's vintage OMC Sterndrives. They even helped me get
    a new tilt-motor direct from Prestolite, $80 vs. $200+ from OMC.
    Good people, fair prices, quality work.

    If any of you have an OMC I/O from 86'-88' you may need to hav aq
    new shift dog and foreward gear installed.  There is a known problem
    and you will hear a clunk when under load, such as pulling skiers
    with many people in the boat.  OMC is fixing this under warranty,
    even on my 87' boat.  As long as it is in, I had them lube the gimbal
    bearing and I will do the winterizing myself.
    
    
    								Rob.

    
    Well, I guess you can't get a boat 'summerized' without *some* kind
    of problem. I'ld like some advice, anyone have any ????   :-)
    
    	Power:	T/190 Mercruisers  I/O, freshwater cooled, 
    		less than 400 hrs.
    
    	   problem:	1 power tilt piston decides it only wants to work
    one way. Is it better to replace with a new one or (possibly) rebuid
    the old? Any idea how much a new one would cost?
    
    	problem:	Just started the motors for the first time this
    year. One started to overheat so I shut it down. I plan on replacing
    the thermostat this weekend but am wondering about other possible
    causes. Last year this motor warmed up faster and ran a little hotter
    (well within acceptable limits) than its mate. If the thermostat
    isn't the problem, any ideas for diagnosing the problem without
    rebuilding the cooling system?? 

    	I'm mechanically inclined but lack in experience, special tools,
    and funds. Not missing too much, eh?  :-)
    
    Any help or info you can give would be appreciated.
    
    Thanks,
    
    		Don

re        <<< Note 100.13 by MTADMS::CARLETON "TGIF: Thank God It Floats" >>>
>                  -< problems? no. She's got opportunities. >-

>    	problem:	Just started the motors for the first time this
>    year. One started to overheat so I shut it down. I plan on replacing
>    the thermostat this weekend but am wondering about other possible
>    causes. Last year this motor warmed up faster and ran a little hotter
>    (well within acceptable limits) than its mate. If the thermostat
>    isn't the problem, any ideas for diagnosing the problem without
>    rebuilding the cooling system?? 

	Check with the "ear_muffs" first, I assume this boat is out of 
the water (???), if no water comes out then you're not picking any up.
 This usually indicates trouble in the pick-up pump in the lower unit,
when was the impellor last replaced ?  It should be done each year,
every two years max.   If you've never done this yourself,,,,, well,
its not too bad, but getting the shift mechanism all lined up can be a
bit tricky, no special tools beyond a socket set (mostly 5/8) and
Allen keys (3/8 especially).  It seems that thermostats usually fail
toward the stuck open position, so things tend to warm up slower
and/or run cooler. 

>    	I'm mechanically inclined but lack in experience, special tools,
>    and funds. Not missing too much, eh?  :-)

	Right, (-:

	No "special" special tools needed, but if you have some wire a 
little thinner than a bicycle spoke (MUCH thinner than coat hanger 
wire) it will be useful for aligning that shift mechanism.  It needs 
to be stiff enough to guide things together but thin enough to allow 
assembly up to the last 1/16 inch or so, then you sneak it out and
tighten up the nuts and bolts.  This isn't very clear, but it will be
once you have it apart and realize which little bit keeps flopping to
one side every time you try to reassemble it.  Despite what the manual
says, I've found it easier to assemble it with the shift lever and the
lower unit in "Forward", also with the lower unit close to max tilt
(shallow water, not the trailer position). 

	Good luck, call if you need to talk it through.

	Reg

    
    re.13
    	Is the boat nrmally used in salt water? If so, then in addition
    to the things described in .14, you may want to check the exhaust
    manifolds. The raw water which cools the engine's water within
    the heat exchangers may not be able to circulate due to corrosion
    build-up in the exhaust manifolds. The raw water gets picked up in the
    outdrive, delivered to the heat-exchanger (where it cools the water
    that is part of the closed system) then the raw water goes out through
    the exhaust manifolds. If they are plugged, the raw water won't
    circulate even if ALL other components in the cooling system are
    ok. Result = overheating engine. Sometimes only one manifold is
    plugged. A way to check for this is to feel the exhaust pipes just
    after the exhaust manifolds. If one is much warmer than the other,
    then *that* exhaust manifold is plugged.  

    				Kenny

I've recently read of an increase in the occurrence of mussels growing
in the water intakes. Something else to think about.

Art

    My '79 Mercruiser 470 doesn't shift into forward or reverse. The cable
    that runs into the stern drive will not move over it's full travel.
    My suspicion is that the shifter shaft is bound up in the neutral
    position. Has anybody played around with this area ? I have the
    factory repair manuals and they make it sound straight forward but
    sometimes they lie.

    re:14
    
    	Is 2 years the maximum life expectancy for an impeller or is that
    just for this particular make and model of engine ? This sounds like a 
    pretty short life.
    
    	Ray

re      <<< Note 100.18 by VICKI::DODIER "Food for thought makes me hungry" >>>
>                              -< 2 years max ??? >-

>    re:14
    
>    	Is 2 years the maximum life expectancy for an impeller or is that
>    just for this particular make and model of engine ? This sounds like a 
>    pretty short life.

	Its a  "recommendation"    	Its cheap insurance.   

	"Changing the oil is cheaper than changing the engine."

	That kind of reasoning.

	B'leeve me;  once you've got it apart to check it, its worth 
the small amount of extra effort and a few $s to replace it.  It may 
well be that they last 10 or 20 years for some people under SOME 
conditions, dunno, its just not the kind of thing I would wait to
fail.   

	Reg

	{We can discuss tire mileage too...... but I don't want to see
	the steel belts (-:, (-: }

    The *REAL* reason for replacing the impeller on a regular basis, is so
    that the bolts holding the lower unit together are periodically
    removed. If you don't move those bolts, and your impeller loses its
    shape (they spin in water without moving any), or something worse
    happens, it will be difficult/impossible/$$$$$$ to get it apart. Look
    around in the junk pile at a boatyard, and see how many outboards and
    I/O's are there with the heads rounded and torn up on the lower leg.
    
    ...Larry

    
    	Granted that impeller replacement is an important part of I/O
    maintence, depending on the outdrive, Mercury's impeller is deep
    inside the outdrive, requiring the boat to be out of the water and 
    45 minutes of someone time to change it and $$$ if the dealer does it.
    Were as the impeller in the OMC outdrive is in the top portion of the 
    outdrive, can be done in the water (if you are careful not to drop the 
    bolts), and take no longer than 10 minutes.
    In the future it would be nice to have the impeller located as part of
    the engine, instead of being located in the outdrive. 8^)
    
    
    	Mike
    

    
    	Update on .13
    
    		It was the impeller. It was well chewed and needed
    replacing.  :-(    ..... but I gained some experience.   :-)  Thanks
    for all the help. All she needs now is a name and I can't use what
    I was callin' her last week .............
    
    		Weather permitting, she'll be launched this weekend.
    I've been waiting for this since Oct. and I'm starting to get anxious.
    Know what I mean????  :-)
    
    latuh,
    
    		Don
    

    
    Both Volvo and Yamaha have their *RAW* water impellers mounted on
    the front of the engine. - there is no impeller in the outdrive
    at all. Very easy to change <5min with one screwdriver/wrench.
    
    					Kenny

I've got a Mercruiser I/O.  There are several grease fittings on the outdrive.
I was greasing one of these fittings.  When I went to pull the gun off the
fitting I pulled the fitting out of the outdrive block.  The threads in the
in block were stripped.  The fitting (which did not get stripped) will not
screw back into the block.

What do I do?  

Retap the the grease fitting hole to a larger size grease fitting?

This is bumming me out. I want to put this sucker in the water but must resolve
this problem first.



One other thing.  When I ran the engine with the muffs, I could hear a slight
knocking coming from the outdrive (not the engine).  What is this?  Is it 
serious?  I changed the outdrive lube and it is full.  Could it be the impeller?

thanks,

tim

    As for the grease fitting, retap the hole, then helicoil it.
    
    Aluminum is the louziest place for threads. Its not totally
    your fault that it pulled out. The "idiots" who made it
    should have done this.
    
    As for the "noise" can't help you. 
    
    jim...
    

Jim,

Thanks for the suggestion.  Do they make helicoils sized for grease fitting
holes?  How about using an epoxy to glue the damn thing in there and worry
about retapping the next time I regrease?

thanks,

tim

    You have to tap the hole to fit the helicoil. they come in various
    
    sizes.  It cost me $15. to have a roto-tiller head done.
    
    Its not a big job, can you bring the boat to some one that
    
    does it. Evev a local garage, or repair shop??
    
    
    Jim.

    
    
      I beleive grease fittings use pipe threads (tapered) I have never
    heard of Heli-coils for pipe threads. Why not just get a grease
    fitting with one size larger threads and put that in?
    
    
    					Kenny

    Grease fittings normally are screwed into 1/4-28 NF holes (a straight
    thread, not a tapered pipe thread).  The threads on the fitting itself
    are tapered.
    
    Epoxy won't work on a greasy or oily surface, and is very weak for this
    sort of application; a grease gun produces pressures that are probably
    in the KPSI range.
    
    An 8-32 helicoil kit just cost me $31 at a local industrial supplier.
    Order number for a 1/4-28 kit is 5402-4; it comes with drill, tap, 24
    inserts, and insertion tool.
    
    You need to be careful to drill and tap on the same centerline as the
    original threads.  You will develop metal shavings from drilling and
    tapping, and there's a hardened metal tab on the insert which is
    usually broken off by driving it into the hole after insertion.
    
    This is sort of a pay-me-now-or-pay-me-later situation.
    
    J

    Helicoils are also made for pipe threads.
    
    Heli-Coil Products
    Shelter Rock Lane
    Danbury
    Connecticut 06810
    203-743-7651

    I am not sure if this is the right place for this, so please feel free
    to move it if the moderator sees fit. I am also sure this comes under
    the title of another of those age-old arguments but I would like some
    opinions of I/O's versus large outboards.
    
    My father has an 18' MFG (vintage about 1966) with a 65 HP Johnson
    (vintage 1973). Both are only used in fresh water (Lake Champlain)
    in the Summer and are in quite good condition. The boat is a fairly 
    heavy early fiberglass runabout and is a good rough-water boat. It
    really could use, however, a little more oomph (it is OBC rated for 
    90 HP) and my father has the idea of possibly putting and 85 or 90 HP
    on it. He priced new ones and it appears that in the Burlington, VT
    area one would need to part with about $5,000 to $5,400 for a 90 HP
    with power trim and all the accessories. There did not seem to be
    anything used available in good condition.
    
    My comment to him was that it did not seem wise to put that kind of
    $$$$ into a boat that is 25 years old, particularly when a stroll
    through the WantAdvertiser yields many used boats in the 18-22 foot
    range with 4/6/8 cylinder I/O's in the $5,000-$10,000 price range. Many
    of these boats are only a few years old. I/O vs O/B did not seem to
    make too much difference since neither really gets removed from the
    boat.
    
    His response was that he understands the $$$ argument but that he hears
    from friends up there that I/O's are maintenance trouble, that they
    need regular seal replacements/rebuilds/tune-ups/alignments/etc. I must
    admit that many of the used boats advertised state recent rebuilds of
    the engine or outdrive on boats that seem to be quite new. A perusal of
    this notes file also seems to show alot of maintenance issues. A friend
    bought a 19' Grady White bowrider two years ago (boat was a 6-year old
    in excellent condition). I have had to tow him home three times in two
    seasons and he has yet to put it in this year since it needs $300 worth
    of seals replaced in the outdrive.
    
    I guess I am looking for experience and guidance in the I/O vs O/B
    decision (regardless of whether we do something to the current boat).
    If money is going to be spent, should I look for a good I/O (which
    seems to be my preference for noise, space, and power) or should I look
    for a large outboard?  Other than the obvious power differences, is
    there a reliability/maintenance difference to the different engine
    sizes? Is through-the-hull exhaust better or not? 
    Your inputs are greatly appreciated.
    
    Thanks,
    Larry

    Larry,
       I have had both i/o and o/b and i find the maintence issue about the
    same one must understand that whenever you put a machine as complex as 
    an ob or io in a marine enviroment you are going to have maintenance 
    problems.For my own preference i like the convience of the io and the 
    fuel eccomony is a little better because it is a 4cycle as opposed to
    a 2 cycle.You should realy consider how you are going to use the boat
    if for example your going to fish in shallow water an ob would be
    better for you but if you are going to do alot of water sking and long
    ocean trips then an io is better.What i'am saying here their both good
    performance machines but don't buy something you don't need.
      Hope this is of some help good luck.
    
                               Dave R. Howell
                    

    Well this is a question which won't get you a statistically significant
    or unbiased answer in this file, so given that...
    
    When I was younger I always puttered around on little boats with small
    outboards (<15hp).  They were always breaking (of course the fact that
    98% of the usage was by 12yr old kids didn't hit me back then).  When
    I got into getting my own boat I wasn't going to get an outboard, I was
    going to get a "real man's motor".  But my first two boats have had
    outboards not because I wanted them but they happened to be what was
    there given price and all the other constraints you go through...
    
    In retrospect I'd have to say I've changed my mind.  I've never had a
    problem and don't know anyone else who has (but I don't know all that
    many boaters).  You see larger outboards on some pretty serious
    offshore boats.   And I have to say that it is also my impression that
    I/Os seem to break more often, but then again there are a lot more
    things that can go wrong.
    
    Some hard frequency of repair type data would sure help diffuse all the
    non-data in discussions like this.

    The boat would not be used for fishing so shallow water operation is
    not a problem. The current outboard (65HP Johnson) has been quite
    reliable (except for the last two years on the last run of the season
    when the ignition quit one year and a shift cable broke the other
    year). All the maintenance it seems to require is care with the gas,
    and changing the lower-unit grease and checking spark plugs in the 
    Fall before storage. Both my father and I are quite mechanically
    inclined so this is not a problem, the only thing we have had to take
    the motor in for repairs was the ignition failure. This is all pretty
    simple. Am I getting into alot more with the I/O, specifically things
    which will need a professional mechanic to accomplish? We do all the
    oil changes/coolant changes, etc on our cars and his truck and have
    done carb rebuilds, water pumps, brakes, starter replacements. Is there
    normally more maintenance items beyond this sort of skill level? 
    
    The previous response probably hit the nail on the head, I/O's are more
    complicated and have more to go wrong. Again, however, I am attracted
    to the additional power and getting a slightly larger boat (19-22 ft)
    with the power for skiing. I understand the added issues of putting
    anything mechanical near water, and most of them I can deal with but I
    would not like to have to haul the boat over to an expensive mechanic
    on a regular basis to accomplish repairs. I was really struck by how
    many boats in the WantAdvertiser boast "low hours on new engine/heads/
    outdrive" or something which would seem to last alot longer. I know
    that some people can be pretty hard on equipment but this still seems
    like a high occurrence.
    
    Larry 

    Larry,
      I responed earlier and as i said i have had both and after 40yrs. of
    boating both for fun and for an income and my personal feeling is 
    still the same but i have had 4 boats with i/o 3 mercruisers and 1 omc
    and i have no repairs an over 1000 hrs of operation except for the
    annual service and taking care of items before they get serious the i/o
    have preformed to specs.The care and service of all marine equipment is
    required not an optional thing you can put off like alot of people do.
     In closing you may want to consider this it is awful hard to repair an
    ob out in 20 fathem and leaning over the stern then it is to repair an
    i/o inside the hull. This is what makes the differnce for me.
    
                                                  Dave

    
    I have had I/O, I/B, and Outboards. I love an Inboard as everything
    except the prop is insude the Hull, but they are a disadvantage in
    shallow water.
    
     For the reasons mentioned previously, I prefer I/O. I would recommend
    that if the I/O you select uses a pump mounted in the outdrive-remove
    the imopeller and put in an engine driven pump like the volvo has. Pump
    replecemnt every 2 yrs seems to be common on the I/O's and higher HP
    outboards, and is a pain to replace on both. With an engine driven
    Bronze pump,, you can carry a spare impeller, etc, and replace it in
    about 10 min from inside the boat.
    
     I have had my problems, but they have been mostly due to poor
    faulty repairs by "professionals". Like any piece of complicated
    equipment, you cannot skimp on the recommended maintenance.
    
     I love the smooth, quiet running of the I/O, the lack of smoke,
    and the fuel economy- especially with higher HP engines. Running at low
    speeds is an absolute Joy with a 4 cycle vs two cycle, And maintenece
    is straight forward and parts are available (even the "maine" parts for
    the engines at yoyr freindly local auto parts store.
    
    OUtboards have the advantage that they are light,relatively simple, and
    when your drive train dies, you can simp[ly and easily bolt on a new
    one.
    
    That's my 2 cents,
    
    Dick
    

Larry,
	I guess I've responded to all the previous discussions so I 
might as well join in here as well. It appears to me that you have 
already decided on the I/O so why anguish over the choice? The factual
differences are well documented here and elsewhere and the subjective ones
are free for the asking and worth what you pay for them.
Paul

    Actually I have not decided, just leaning. My father is actually the 
    "decider", it is his boat. I was looking for some data for him, and to
    try to counter or clarify some of the negative input he has been
    getting from some of his friends about I/O's so that he could make the most
    informed decision. My family and I use the boat quite a bit for skiing, etc
    and I do most of what maintenance there is and do not want to see
    either of us buy a headache. I realize that most responses and
    experiences ar anecdotal, but that is fine. I appreciate everyone's 
    taking the time to respond.
    
    Larry
    
    

    The May 1991 Trailer Boat Mag has an interesting article comparing an
    outboard (225 HP Yamaha), an i/o (Mercruiser 260 HP), and a jet (
    Indmar 330HP) mounted to three identical Advantage 20' 5" hull.  I can
    drop my copy in the mail to you if you promise to return it.
    Basically, here are the results:
    
                   outboard      I/O         jet
    -------------------------------------------------
    0-30 mph        4.48 sec     4.67        4.13
    top speed       63.2 mph     55.7        56.4
    noise level     78 db        80 db       89 db   (cruising speed @ 50')
                    88 db        82 db       91 db   (full throttle @ 50')
    weight          397 lbs      907         860
    fuel economy    2.6 gph      2.2         3.0     1000 rpm
                    8.5          10.2        10.4    3000 rpm
                    14.5         17.0        17.0    4000 rpm
                    26.3          *           *      5600 rpm full throttle
                      *          25.6         *      4400 rpm full throttle
                      *           *          35.3    4900 rpm full throttle
    base price      $26K         $25K        $22K    (no options)
    
    Test crew comments:
    
       Basically, the outboard and jet were more fun to drive at high
    speeds.  The jet was very loud.  The I/O would still be the choice 
    as the best combination for an overall family boat.
    
    
      You can draw your own conclusions from the data and I can send you my
    copy of the mag if you want.  They talk more about handling and stuff
    like that.  Things that can't be quantified.
    
    Too bad they couldn't have thrown an inboard into the test.
    Wayne

Four Winns, OMC outdrive

Lately, when shifting from forward to neutral, I find myself wiggling the
shifter to ensure that it jumps into neutral.  This is because sometimes it
doesn't quite disengage and the prop still spins (barely).  I can tell that
it is engaged because I'm still moving and the engine sounds different when
it pops out of gear.

Before I make a significant treck to the dealer, is this a simple adjustment
thing or something more complex?  My tech manual seems to deal with this only
as part of a larger teardown/rebuild.


/Chris

The boat is a 1991 model.  I had checked note 549, but assumed that the 
outdrive had been updated.  Good assumption?  Should I check for a date stamp?


/Chris

I know that the lower unit should be lubed, etc. every year and I intend to do
it.  Question:  Is there any reason why I can't do it BEFORE the beginning of
next season instead on AFTER this season.

I'm assuming that it's a "routine" thing - making sure it get's done every year
and that fall is as good a time as any.  My preference is to do engine 
maintenance now and lower unit maintenance in the spring.

Any faults to this thinking?


/Chris

RE:  .43

>> Is there any reason why I can't do it BEFORE the beginning of
>> next season instead on AFTER this season.


There sure is.  If there's any moisture or water in there, you want to
get it out NOW, rather than let it work all winter at rusting your lower
unit.  If there's enough water, it can actually split the lower unit when
it freezes and expands.

This holds true for wheel bearings as well.  Good enough reason to do 
it now?

Rick

Hmmm - didn't think of that.  

I'm on it - thanks Rick!


/Chris

    I junked an outboard cause I waited till spring. Everything in the
    lower unit was a mass of rust. The dealer termed it "negligence".
    
    Bill
    

    One other reason is to lube the splined shaft on the top of outdrive.  
    If there is water in the end of the shaft coupling (inside the fylwheel
    housing) there is a very good chance the shaft will rust to the
    coupling.   The fix is cutting the shaft with a tourch and removing the
    engine to replace the flywheel and coupling.   
    
    Save money  do it now.
    
    Ken

    The reason you should change the lube oil in i/o is that if you have
    had any water get threw the seals it will freeze and destroy your i/o
    for a nice round figure of $2000 replacement cost.

    Moved by moderator (this seems like as good a place as any...)
    
================================================================================
Note 925.0                   Out Drive Whine Problem                  No replies
RIPPLE::ARROWSMIT_GA                                 17 lines  24-OCT-1991 19:46
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    	I've got a Larson with a 260 Mercruser outdrive. I've had 
    	a water leak ever since the boat was new, however, my fear of
    	maintenance shops ($$$) kept me from taking the boat in. The leak 
    	finally got bad enough that I dug out the shop manuals to learn
    	how the exhaust manifolds attach to the transom. I found that the
    	dealer didn't tighten the lower 12 point 3/8" exhaust manifold bolts.
    	Problem is that after tearing it all apart (out drive off to check
    	source of leak as well as skeg repair) the out drive "whines" more
    	than it used to at high RPM and load, I can reduce the whine by raising
    	out drive slightly at cruse speed which I beleive indicates the" U" 
 	joint is misaligned and whining.
    	Could I have misaligned the U joint in my efforts? What stops the out 
	drive in the fully down poisition? could it have moved? Is it the 
	hydrolic lift's or a mechanical stop? I wonder if the motor 
	shifted its alignment?

                                                                 

    I am not sure if this is the right place for this but my question
    regards operating an I/O with the drive tilted. We have to traverse
    some shallow water getting into the dock on a lake. Is it OK to operate
    the I/O (260 Mercruiser) with the drive tilted as long as the water
    intakes are covered or is this damaging to engine/drive? It is a
    relatively short distance (probably 30 yards) and short time (less than
    1 minute)  but it requires that the drive be tilted up at least
    half-way on the tilt gauge. Looking at the boat with the drive tilted
    FULLY up while stopped, the intakes are still 8-10 inches under water.
    Hope you veterans can give a new I/O owner your input. Thanks.
    
    Larry

    
    I don't see any problem with the intakes 8-10" underwater.
    
    The only issue is the angle of the prop, it won't give much
    
    of a push.
    
    I wouldn't be concerned..
    
    JIm.

    I might be concerned about the amount of angle put in the U-joint.
    Keep to low rpm's.
    
    Bruce

    RPM's are indeed very low and actually this is usually calm water and
    mostly used to give just enough of a push to cross this shallow water.
    Most of the time it is actually in neutral with just enough engagement
    of neutral and reverse to maneuver up to the dock. Throttle is always
    just at idle. You're right, Jim, the handling is pretty sluggish. 
    
    Larry

    
    	2nd the emotion on the low rpm's in tilt
    
    	my OMC 4.3L manual sez that once you leave the trim range
    	and are in TILT, operation not to exceed 1000 RPM is ok
    	as long as water is being pumped through the engine.
    
    	After 1000 you risk drivetrain damage 
    
    	your rpm range may differ for the Merc but I won't argue
    	when they say they didn't design it to work at a severe tilt.
    
    				fwiw
    						- Ed

    If you can help it don't.  The joint is a unversal joint not a constant
    volocity one.  The bearing have very high loads when the drive is
    tilted.   You can tell when the bearings are going.  They will make a
    knocking noise at low speed in gear and the drive full port or
    starboard.   
    
    Ken C
    

    On tilting a mercruiser up the trim control should be used while the
    engine is running as this won't let you put it up to high and the
    factory rule is when it is up to the limit don't run the engine above
    1200rpm's as the universal joint in the i/o will be damaged.The only
    i/o that you don't have to wory about is omc cobra which has a special
    designed universal but you still have to keep it in the water deep
    enought for water pickup.

    Note 100.12                      I/O Maintenance                       
    12 of 56
    MUSKIE::LEFEBVRE                                      9 lines 
    30-AUG-1989 16:41
                                -< Clunking OMC drives >-
    qqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqqq
    If any of you have an OMC I/O from 86'-88' you may need to hav aq new
    shift dog and foreward gear installed.  There is a known problem and
    you will hear a clunk when under load, such as pulling skiers with many
    people in the boat.  OMC is fixing this under warranty, even on my 87'
    boat.  As long as it is in, I had them lube the gimbal bearing and I
    will do the winterizing myself.
     
    ******
    
    I have a '77 OMC Outdrive that "clunks" and appears to slip if I
    throttle above 3300 rpm. I just had a new hub put in the prop thinking
    that was the problem. Shifting seems ok.
    
    Anyone have a hint as towhat this can be?
    

    Has anyone ever attempted to remove their trim limit switches on their
    Mercruiser I/O? I have a 1988 which now I am told by the service folks
    that are the "old " style with screws that make disassembly and
    assembly of the switch mechanism a snap. The problem is the contact is
    a piece of flat, copper across opposing contact points and they are
    both corroded, so contact is minimal to none. The new limit and
    position switches come as pairs and the wire for each is embedded in
    the switch housing, so consequently, the outdrive has to come off.
        Beautiful! Just wondering if anyone has ever taken the outdrive off 
    themselves.
    
    	Regards,
    
         John