Conference vicki::boats

re                        <<< Note 526.0 by SALEM::KLOTZ >>>
>                        -< Cutlass Bearing Replacement >-

>    Looking for some general info around the "Cutlass Bearing" on an
>    inboard.  (No jokes about that's the direction the captain points
>    with his sword)

	Right,

	It was covered some time ago (coupla years maybe ???) in the
sailing conference, I'm surprised you don't remember it.
I  *_KNOW_*  you go in there (-: 

	R

    Hi Lou.
    You can tell if your cutlass is worn by sighting down the shaft. There
    should be no differance between the angle of any of the blades from one
    another ;when looked at from ether end. Having done this, proceed to
    try to wiggle your shaft by hand. you should not be able to move it.
    There is no diffinent time interval that I know of for replacement.
    Just replace when worn. If you get monofiliment fishing line wrapped
    around the shaft & bearing it will cut right thru it. check for any
    visual damage ie: cracks, broken blades, ect....
    
    Do you have a wobble? Is that why your asking?
    
                                         Walt
    

re .0:

My cutlass bearing was still in good condition after some 900 hours of use 
(propeller shaft speed less than 1000 rpm). But I suspect that a little
misalignment or higher shaft speeds would result in (maybe much) shorter life.

Replacement requires, at a minimum, removing the propeller. Removing the 
propeller shaft also makes the job much easier. Look at a picture of a 
propeller removal tool in a catalog. It is easy to make a similar tool that, 
with a piece of pipe a little smaller than the outside diameter of the cutlass 
bearing, can be used to press the old bearing out of the strut. 

    Lou, whatever you do to check those bearings, don't turn them
    with the engines, while your up on the beach, or goodbye.
    
    Noticed one of the replies mentioned shaft removal. Fine
    but the tool used is a torch.
    
    Jim.
    

    Oh yea! speaking of prop removal. The dealer must have used an inpact
    hammer to put the prop on my new boat last year. I tried to get it off
    after 4 mo running and I had to use a 9 ton puller and set up a
    resonance vibration to budge it. Of course I forgot to leave a loose
    shaft nut on to prevent the prop from flying off when it popped.
    
    You should see how far a 18 x 16 three blade nibril will fly, it must
    have gone 10 feet after deflecting off the rudder. Luckly I was not in
    its flight path. I won't do that again
    
    As far as a new cutlass goes, try giving H & H props a call down in
    Salem Ma. I know they carry them. They may even know a few easy tricks
    to change them.
    
                                    Walt
    

re .4:

>>>    Noticed one of the replies mentioned shaft removal. Fine
>>>    but the tool used is a torch.
    
I assume you're referring to removing the shaft from the transmission 
coupling. It can be done without a torch. I got some long bolts, put a piece 
of bar stock (actually a deep socket wrench) between the transmission flange
and the propeller shaft, and used the long bolts to pull the transmission
coupling and the transmission flange together. This pushed the propeller shaft
out of the transmission coupling quite nicely. Of course, I have only a 1" 
diameter shaft and the process might be more difficult with a larger shaft. 

    The reason I'm asking ---
    
    	I had a bit too much drip in my one stuffing boxes this past weekend
    	so I snugged it up a bit --
    
    	Then after running for a while (& while crusing at a slow speed)
    	I gave Patty the helm & went below to be sure it wasn't too
    	snug (i.e. heating up)
    
    	It appeared that the shaft had a wobble to it -- I'm not sure
   	if this was an optical illusion due to the stuffing box needing
    	new packing & vibrating itself - or was it really the shaft(?)
    
    	I suspect its the box; however, I did have some mono fish line
    	on that shaft this year -- ergo some concern.
    
    	The engines have about 375 hrs on them.
    
    	I have to admit all this talk about pullers, tourches, etc..
    	is a bit discerning - being naive & looking at the assembly
    	it appeared that removing the shaft would be a snap.
    
    	Oh well we'll see when it's pulled for the season --
    
    	Living & learning -- ain't boats wonderful,
                                                     Lou

    Lou, if you got a wobble, you got some vibration to go with it
    at r.p.m. (2800+)? If so have the marina at least check out your
    alignment before you pull it. IT CANNOT BE DONE ON THE BEACH.
    Sorry for hollering, but this would be about the best time
    for an alignment to be done. It cannot be done in the spring
    until the boat has settled. Usualy takes about 2-3 weeks.
    I think the spec say's .005 is acceptable at the plates.
    
    You can check this yourself.
    
    Jim.

    I'll have to check again this weekend; but, strange as it seems
    I have not noticed any real vibration at any RPM ---
    
    The only reason I noticed this at all is because I went down to
    check the Stuffing Box - & I believe I see a wobble.
    
    I'm trying to think of some way to tell if it really is the shaft
    or is it the stuff box (because I know it needs repacking), or just
    an illusion due to some oxidation marks on the shaft.
    
    We'll see Sat.
                      Lou
    
    p.s. All this feedback is appreciated & interesting.

         I called H & H Props in Salem and they said I should expect
         3-5 years out of a bearing -- suggest if it needs repair that
         I remove the "entire strut" from the boat & bring it in so
         they can fit the bearing in place.
    
    	Called another place & they said I should get 8 or so years
        out of a bearing & suggested I bring the Prop/shaft in to check
        them out first.
    
    	All solutions seem simple enough:
    
    	DIS-ASSEMBLE BOAT - REPLACE WORN PART - RE-ASSEMBLE BOAT
    
                                 Huh?
                                       Lou
    
    
    

re .9:

Remove the entire strut??? They've gotta be kidding!!! 

Offhand I don't know the exact tolerances, but the shaft diameter should be 
within a very few thousandths of an inch of its nominal diameter. If the shaft 
has been worn very much by either the cutlass bearing or the stuffing box, it 
may need to be replaced (ugh). Wear can be easily measured with a micrometer.

re stuffing boxes:

Throw the thing in the nearest EPA-approved trash bin and buy a Lasdrop. Mine 
(which is the older, not quite as good as the new design) hasn't leaked in 
five years and has required no maintenance. In the Lasdrop all the wear is 
between pieces of the Lasdrop and not on the propeller shaft. 

    Well -
    
    	The boat is out of the water (Sigh.....)
    
    	There is a small nick in the prop; but, it doesn't look like
    	enough to cause any wobble, etc...
    
    	I STILL CAN'T TELL If there is any problem with the Cutlass!!!
    	About 30% of the "Marina Experts" seem to think I should replace
    	them while the other 70% says "...nah, you'll get another 3-5
   	years.."
    
    	For some reason I don't trust myself on this one - I don't want
    	to change anything that ani't broke - yet I don't want to relaunch
   	& then find out in August that there is a real problem.
    
    	When I try to move the shaft - it feels very tight to me; but,
    	how does one "feel" about .005" play?
    
    	The Back of the one cutlass shows a little wear - I think from
    	a peice of mono - it's about 1/16" shorter than the other -
    	inside the strut - But considering the whole bearing is about
    	4" long it doesn't seem it would matter much.
    
    	If I rotate the prop by hand back & forth I feel a very slight
    	"clang" -- some of the "marina experts" say this is the bad
    	bearing; but, I then to think it's a normal "clang" from the
    	transmission gear box and I'm just feeling it at the cutlass
    	cause that's where I'm at...

    	Any last thoughts still appreciated --
    	At this time I'm tempted to leave well enough alone under the
    	pretense that I might be looking too close.
    
    	Ah - if I only knew what I was doing,
                                                 Lou

re                        <<< Note 526.11 by SALEM::KLOTZ >>>
    
>    	I STILL CAN'T TELL If there is any problem with the Cutlass!!!
>    	About 30% of the "Marina Experts" seem to think I should replace
>    	them while the other 70% says "...nah, you'll get another 3-5
>   	years.."

	Fear is the best salesman for most  "preventative"  procedures.

>    	When I try to move the shaft - it feels very tight to me; but,
>    	how does one "feel" about .005" play?

	Its probably safe to say that clearances of less than 0.001 
	can be felt by most people on most assemblies.

>    	If I rotate the prop by hand back & forth I feel a very slight
>    	"clang" -- some of the "marina experts" say this is the bad
>    	bearing; but, I then to think it's a normal "clang" from the
>    	transmission gear box and I'm just feeling it at the cutlass
>    	cause that's where I'm at...

	Dunno if you work on cars Lou, but if this feels like what 
happens if you try to turn a rear wheel (rear drive car, in park with 
parking brake off, but with the wheels chocked) with a car on the jack
then its just the gear lash, nothing to worry about.  On the other
hand, if you can feel side to side slop (non rotational) then its
likely the bearing - as to how much is too much,,,,,,,,, as I said, it
could be less than 1/1,000 inch and still detectable.


>    	Any last thoughts still appreciated --
>    	At this time I'm tempted to leave well enough alone under the
>    	pretense that I might be looking too close.

	Could be,  could be....    

	Reg

    Lou, to me its sounds that you are looking to close. I don't think
    you have a problem. However, i'll answer "how do you replace them"
    them part.
    
    1. Pull the shaft.
    2. Using a hacksaw, remove the blade, put it thru the cutlass,
       reconnect the blade to the handle upside down (teeth facing the
       handle) saw thru the rubber bearing and down thru the bronze
       sleeve. DO NOT SAW THRU THE STRUT.
    
    3. Using a 3/4" threaded rod, 2 nuts and 2 large washers,
       put hardware on one end, slide on new cutlass, slide
       this thru the strut, put hardware on the other end,
       hand tighten both nuts, line it up, using 2 wrenches,
       tighten until cutlass is seated.
    
    
    4. Re-install shaft,prop etc.
    
    5. Drink beer.
    
    jim.
    
    
     

    There's an ABYC standard for shaft-to-cutlass fit.  If you get into
    replacing the bearing, you must mike the shaft and the bearing to get
    the correct initial clearance.
    
    My latest whale has a 25 x 25 prop on a 1-1/2" shaft, and the cutlass
    needs replacement.  So far, I have:  removed the rudder, disconnected
    the shaft coupling, pulled the shaft and prop out of the shaft log,
    paid $108 in machine shop time to get the prop off the shaft, and spent
    some time disconsolately staring at cracked rubber in the bearing. 
    Some of the hints above sound helpful for removal, but I'm goiing to
    wait until I have at least sandblasted and primed too many square feet
    of steel hull inside and out.
    
    Lou- I don't think you have a problem.  I do think that some of the
         replies above seem to have confused cutlass bearings with stuffing
         boxes and runout with clearance.  With the rubber bearing, you'll
         know when it's worn, it'll rattle and make noise and carry on and
         you'll still get home OK, maybe slower than you want.
    J

    	To replace or not to replace, that is the question.

    	Whether tis wiser to replace the strut bearing (cutlass)
    while prop and rudder are at H&H or reassemble the boat and
    check for vibration first...

    	I can feel a little movement in the shaft around the area
    of the strut, but how much is too much? How can fishing line
    (opps sorry about that you guys) damage the bearing considering
    it's almost completely enclosed?

    Rick

    Simple Watson, it chews up the rubber inside.
    
    
    Jim.

Moved by moderator...

================================================================================
Note 776.0                  Props & Cutlass Bearings                  No replies
SSVAX::REDFIELD                                      27 lines  18-DEC-1990 08:41
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
I just received a Christmas greeting from the boat yard where my toy is 
stored for its winter nap.

The greeting stated that my propellers are dinged and one blade is bent.  
Additionally my port cutlass bearing is worn out and needs replacement.

Their recommendation is to have both props reconditioned.

Quoted costs are:

	Remove & re-install 2 props		$ 75-100
	Recondition and dynamic balance
		2 props - Nibral		 225-300
	Remove and replace cutlass bearing
		incl bronze brg			 225-290

They suggested that the bearing replacement need was caused my the fact 
that I operate in a somewhat shallow area and that perhaps I follow other 
boats to closely, thereby preventing waterborne sand from settling out 
prior to going through it.

My question...Does the work need to be done (the props didn't look all that 
bad to me)?... If so, do these prices seem reasonable?  

thx 

carl

>> My question...Does the work need to be done (the props didn't 
>> look all that bad to me)?... 

Of course there's no way for anyone to comment on that without actually
seeing the boat.  Why not drive up and have a look for yourself?


>> If so, do these prices seem reasonable?  
>>	Remove & re-install 2 props		$ 75-100
	Recondition and dynamic balance
		2 props - Nibral		 225-300

They seem a bit steep to me!  You're talking about a potential for almost
$700 worth of work.  Heck, I'll remove and replace your props for less than
$75-100. How big are the props? That price also sounds expensive, especially 
if they don't look bad, as you say.

Why not remove them yourself and have them reconditioned at H&H?  Then
the only work you'd end up paying the yard for is the cutlass bearing, 
if that really needs to be done.

Rick

Sorry Reg, it looks like you replied as I was moving the note....

================================================================================
Note 775.4               K + N airfilter/flame arrestor?                  4 of 4
ULTRA::BURGESS "Mad man across the water"            83 lines  18-DEC-1990 09:24
            -<  Free advice being worth every penny; here's mine. >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
re                       <<< Note 776.0 by SSVAX::REDFIELD >>>
>                         -< Props & Cutlass Bearings >-

> I just received a Christmas greeting from the boat yard where my toy is 
> stored for its winter nap.


> The greeting stated that my propellers are dinged and one blade is bent.  
> Additionally my port cutlass bearing is worn out and needs replacement.

	Well, of course they are - but how badly ?  
	Looks like they're doing a little gift shopping ?


> Their recommendation is to have both props reconditioned.

>Quoted costs are:

>	Remove & re-install 2 props		$ 75-100

	This seems unreasonable (to me, I'm a DIY'er - your situation 
may be different, you may not have the tools, you may find doing this 
yourself to be less "recreational" than I do... , etc) anyway, it 
shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour to get them off and even less to put 
them back.  I'd bet they don't hold to the $100 if either one of them 
is badly frozen on and they have to use heat (/torch).

>	Recondition and dynamic balance
>		2 props - Nibral		 225-300

	According to diameter this may be reasonable, I really don't 
know.  Ski props are $60-70 for the 12 to 13 inch diameter, including 
the few bux extra for cupped props.  Can't answer this without knowing 
the size, but I'd guess they're adding a decent mark-up to the price
you'd pay if you sent them out yourself to somewhere like H & H. 

>	Remove and replace cutlass bearing
>		incl bronze brg			 225-290

	I have no data - this would probably require more (different) 
tools than you'd be likely to have for normal car/truck maintenance.  
If I were contemplating this I'd research the tool need first - then 
the parts cost - then procrastinate til about March - then just do it 
because the yard would be too busy by then (-:, (-:   I'd justify the
cost of the tools against having to do the other side "next year, some
time, ....", etc.  I think you only need a slide hammer and some way
of connecting it to your shaft.   Getting the bearing out of the strut?
Gee, I dunno, probably drift it out with a big socket or make up a
puller/pusher with some threaded rod and iron ("gas") pipe.  This 
should work for shafts up to about 1 1/2 inches - beyond that....
It depends what's at hand, for example I could just start dismantling
the wine press and use the screw out of that.

> They suggested that the bearing replacement need was caused my the fact 
> that I operate in a somewhat shallow area and that perhaps I follow other 
> boats to closely, thereby preventing waterborne sand from settling out 
> prior to going through it.

	....perhaps; only you have the data to support their guess.  
There's all kind of other good reasons for not following too closely, 
especially in shallow water<safety preaching rathole alert, what if 
the other guy runs aground ?, etc>  do you get a lot of sand and silt
in the raw water pick-up strainer ?   Is your raw water pump showing
signs of having pumped a lot of abrasive stuff ?   It might be worth
looking for some more clues like this. 

> My question...Does the work need to be done (the props didn't look all that 
> bad to me)?... If so, do these prices seem reasonable?  


	Its a personal decision - how really bad is really bad ?  If 
this is a performance boat the slightest dings in the props or any 
slop in a cutlass bearing will matter a lot, if you rarely exceed
trolling speed its a very different situation and you might be able to
defer the expense.  If you're willing to do the work yourself (and
regard the work as part of the hobby vs being a drag) you could
probably save ~$(above)/2, even if you have to put a few dollars into
tools.  YIKES !  too many  "If's"  (-:, (-:

	Reg

		{Good luck, and tell us what transpires}

    Please pardon my ignorance but what is a "cutless bearing"?
    BTW, H + H reconditioned my prop and made a whole new prop 
    shaft for me for only $160.  They do great work.  Do the 
    removal/re-installation yourself.  You'll save a bundle and
    with the proper tools (rent a prop puller, don't use a hammer)
    you'll learn alot and it's not hard work at all.
    Wayne

re                    <<< Note 526.20 by SALEM::NORCROSS_W >>>
>                        -< What's a "Cutless Bearing"? >-

	The usual joke is something about the direction the captain 
has his sword pointed.  I think the Spelling is    C u t l a s s .

"Cuteless"  is something else and my elaboration would probably be 
censored out  REAL QUICK !

	Ah yes, its the bearing in the strut - the strut being the 
thinggie that the shaft hangs from - the shaft being the thinggie that 
the prop goes onto, etc.


	R


Don't confuse any of this with  "Cut_LASS"  in the S&M conference

    AH yes a cutlass..
    
    " A very dull knife"    Nah, where's professor Irwin Korey when you
    
    need him.
    
    
    
    Anyway, i called H&H, its a buck and a quarter to completely
    recondition an 18" bronze prop.
    
    Just one question for the originator.....
    
    YOU NEVER RAN THE BOAT IN GEAR WHILE IT WAS ON THE BEACH...
    
    DID YOU???????????????????????????????????????????
    
    J.

    What alloy is the bronze?  Is it manganese bronze, or silicon bronze?
    Yes it does matter. Why? Silicon bronze is more corrosion resistant.
    Manganese bronze is not really bronze because it has zinc in it as 
    well as mag and copper... that makes it brass..... really.  Jeff

re                       <<< Note 526.23 by EXPRES::GILMAN >>>
>                         -< What alloy are the props? >-


>    What alloy is the bronze?  Is it manganese bronze, or silicon bronze?
>    Yes it does matter. Why? Silicon bronze is more corrosion resistant.

	Who said  "bronze" ?



	Nibral is Ni_Br_Al  and ain't exactly salt water soluble



	R

    I asked what alloy are the PROPS, not the cutlass bearings. Water
    soluable isn't exactly the right term. Electrolytic or galvanic
    corrosion might be.
    
    Jeff

    Reg::::
    
    are you referrincing the abbreviations for metals
    
    Ni_Br_Al  i get nickel bronze aluminum, but bronze has none
    
    its an alloy of copper and tin...
    
    
    JIm.

Enough with the periodic elements...
    
    Direct us to the S&M Notes Conference that <ULTRA::BURGESS> mentioned
    	in a previous note!

    /MArk

    RE:  .27
    
    WHY....
    
    

    re: .28
    
    Why for informational content of course.
    

Some responses to questions and request for assistance?

Re: .18
>>Of course there's no way for anyone to comment on that without actually
>>seeing the boat.  Why not drive up and have a look for yourself?

I did look.  In fact they looked fine to me.  Then I got this letter the 
other day and am being told that it should be repaired.  One prop is 
slightly bent at a tip (perhaps a crease of 2" @ 45 deg), the other has 
some dings or nicks.

>>They seem a bit steep to me!  You're talking about a potential for almost
>>$700 worth of work.  Heck, I'll remove and replace your props for less than
>>$75-100. How big are the props? That price also sounds expensive, especially 
>>if they don't look bad, as you say.

>>Why not remove them yourself and have them reconditioned at H&H?  Then
>>the only work you'd end up paying the yard for is the cutlass bearing, 
>>if that really needs to be done.

I would love to find a cheaper way out, perhaps ask you or someone else to 
help with the repair and replacement.  I could then sponsor a fishing party 
for all the helpers one weekend in season and we could have a blast on me.
I would be learning something useful at the same time.

My boat is a 28' Bertram FBCII, and is moored in Cotuit Bay (Cape Cod) in 
season.  Currently in external storage (props are accessible) at Oyster 
Harbors in Osterville (a $50/hr kind of place!).


Re:  526.19                

>>	Well, of course they are - but how badly ?  
>>	Looks like they're doing a little gift shopping ?

I hope not, they are reputable albeit expensive.  For a bunch of personal 
reasons I had to get the boat out quickly and they fit the billl for me.  I 
amy need to develop alternative in future seasons.  This was my second 
season with the boat and my first to pay for winter work as it was covered 
in the original purchase agreement.

>>	This seems unreasonable (to me, I'm a DIY'er - your situation 
>>may be different, you may not have the tools, you may find doing this 
>>yourself to be less "recreational" than I do... , etc) anyway, it 
>>shouldn't take more than 1/2 hour to get them off and even less to put 
>>them back.  I'd bet they don't hold to the $100 if either one of them 
>>is badly frozen on and they have to use heat (/torch).

I'd love to learn, but don't know how!

>>	According to diameter this may be reasonable, I really don't 
>>know.  Ski props are $60-70 for the 12 to 13 inch diameter, including 
>>the few bux extra for cupped props.  Can't answer this without knowing 
>>the size, but I'd guess they're adding a decent mark-up to the price
>>you'd pay if you sent them out yourself to somewhere like H & H. 

Not sure of size.  I can check this weekend if it the size cannot be 
deduced from knowing that it was the standard for a Bertram 28 with twin 
260's (1986).

>>do you get a lot of sand and silt
>>in the raw water pick-up strainer ?   Is your raw water pump showing
>>signs of having pumped a lot of abrasive stuff ?   It might be worth
>>looking for some more clues like this. 

Don't believe so.  I am pretty careful about operation.  Will look more 
often next season.  By the way I am not sure what a cutlass brg does?

RE: Note 526.22                

>>    Just one question for the originator.....
    
>>    YOU NEVER RAN THE BOAT IN GEAR WHILE IT WAS ON THE BEACH...
    
>>    DID YOU???????????????????????????????????????????
    
If you saw my boat you would know that if it was ever on the beach that I 
would know it.  Therefore I can confidently state that it was never beached 
by me.  The closest to going aground was last August in Cuttyhunk.  I got a 
little to far North in the inner harbor while anchoring and dug into the 
mud a bit.  Did not feel any hard contact!

As I mentioned above...I am open to help if anyone feels like spending time 
down the Cape.  I have a house in Cotuit so comfort is available.  This 
task can justify tool purchase should I ever have to do this work on my own 
(I have spent a lot using this justification and never using the item 
twice, but the rationale is always fun).  An additional benefit would be my 
meeting some more experience mariners, and a fishing expedition might be 
planned for the spring (stripers, blues etc.),


Carl

    Carl, "did you ever run the boat in gear on the beach"
    
    Translation=====  while the boat was in storage (on land) beach
                      = land, did you start the engines and put it in
                        gear.   This will in 2 seconds destroy a cutlass
                        bearing. Water is the lubricant.
    
    
    
    
    
    As for the props, i'd have them done..  Ask the marina "why"
    they feel you need new cutlass bearings. Can they move the shaft
    side to side.
    
    
    
    The prop size and pitch is stamped on the hub of the prop.
    
    JIm.
    
    

    Re: .10
    
    Alan, what is a "Lasdrop"?  Is that some new invention that replaces
    the stuffing box?  I've never seen such a thing advertised in any of
    the catalogues I have received.  The reason I ask is because after
    completely reading this note from beginning to end, I realized that
    maybe I should have done more than just replace the prop shaft on
    my boat.  When I took the prop and shaft to H + H for reconditioning
    they said that the shaft was too worn down where it rode within the 
    bearing (or was it stuffing box?).  This note has me thinking that
    there probably was a reason for the shaft to be so worn and maybe I
    should have replaced the cutlass (I spelled it correctly this time)
    bearing and the stuffing box packing while I had the thing apart.
    My stuffing box does leak some.  I'ld just as soon replace it with
    a newer "gismo" if I could find out what a "Lasdrop" is and where
    to buy one.  It seems to me that the design of the stuffing box has
    probably been around since the inboard was invented and sooner or later
    someone would come up with a more "high tech" design.
    Thanks, Wayne
    
    

re .32: Yes, Lasdrop replaces the traditional stuffing box. West Marine 
(among others) carries them. Lasdrop also advertises in various boating 
magazines. The 1" size is $120, 1.5" $150 (or so).

    Can you describe the Lasdrop stuffing box?  How is it designed etc?

    LasDrop- an aluminum collar fits on the shaft, and a reinforced rubber 
             hose replaces the stuffing box.  to the end of the hose is
    clamped another collar, and an o-ring fits between the two collars.
    
    For boats that go faster than (?) 10? knots, a provision is made to
    circulate water through the hose to keep things wet and the o-ring
    lubricated.
    
    Description above is from memory at least six months old, probably a
    year...
    
    J

    Probably,Alan will give you a better description than the description
    of the Lasdrop in the catalogs.However I have the 1990 Boat/U.S in
    the office and I can send a copy of the Lastdrop picture and
    description if you like.You can mail me, or call me at 237-2208
    By the way I installed one last year and it is great,although you have
    to be in the boat when it is lunched because it may need some
    adjustmens tightening the screws.

RE: .31
>
>    Carl, "did you ever run the boat in gear on the beach"
>    
>    Translation=====  while the boat was in storage (on land) beach
>                      = land, did you start the engines and put it in
>                        gear.   This will in 2 seconds destroy a cutlass
>                        bearing. Water is the lubricant.
>    

I guess I didn't understand the original question.  No I have never run the 
boat out of the water.  Unless...you count a couple of occassions when I 
was bounced high enough out of the water to hear a free high rev spin of 
the props.  And that ws scary in a 13k pound boat!
>    
>    
>    

RE: 526.30

>> I did look.  In fact they looked fine to me.  Then I got this letter the 
>> other day and am being told that it should be repaired.  One prop is 
>> slightly bent at a tip (perhaps a crease of 2" @ 45 deg), the other has 
>> some dings or nicks.

Your shop is definitely not jerking you around on the fact that the props
need to be reconditioned.  A 2" section of prop bent over at 45 degrees
can seriously hurt performance and mileage, and throw the prop out of 
balance.  In fact, if this prop is on the same side as the worn cutlass 
bearing it could easily be the cause of that problem.


>> I would love to find a cheaper way out, perhaps ask you or someone else to 
>> help with the repair and replacement.  I could then sponsor a fishing party 
>> for all the helpers one weekend in season and we could have a blast on me.

Are you sure you want us to help!?  Last time a crew of us *helped* Walt 
Gibson, he ended up having to rebuild the engine!   8^)   (Actually, we 
were chasing an elusive backfiring problem which turned out to be a cracked
piston).  The Cape is a bit of a hike, but who knows, maybe we could put a
crew together when the dust settles from the holidays.


>> I'd love to learn, but don't know how!

Ah, that's the fun part!  As long as you've got some basic mechanical 
aptitude, a service manual, the right tools and a little patience you'd
be surprised at what you can do.  If you're lacking the aptitude, well,
you're SOL and the other items won't help you much.  For some generic
DIY boat & yacht repair books stop by BOAT/US, they've got several on the
subject.  R&Ring the props is probably one of the easier jobs you can do,
with the right tools of course.  As far as the cutlass bearing, I've 
never owned an inboard so have never done the job myself.


>> By the way I am not sure what a cutlass brg does?

It supports the prop shaft and act as a bearing where it passes through
the support strut.

Rick

    
    	See 526.13 for an excellent description of Cutlass bearing
    replacement. It worked for me... (thanks Jim)
    
    Rick