T.R | Title | User | Personal Name | Date | Lines |
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356.1 | | TSG::WILSON | Big_Footer | Mon May 01 1989 21:21 | 37 |
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I made a couple of moorings that work great. I use one for a seaplane,
and one for my boat.
I start with a trip to Spags. One good size plastic wastebasket.
One eyebolt. Three cheap 10 to 13 pound Danforth lookalike anchors.
Three length's of 50' long nylon rope. One length of rope for the
mooring line. At the lumber yard, one 80 lb bag of Sackcrete.
Mix the Sackcrete in the wastebasket, put in the eyebolt, and let
it harden. Put on the mooring line and float, sink it where you
want. Attach the ropes to the anchors. Put a loop at the end of
the anchor lines around the mooring line, then sink the anchors
one up shore, one down shore, one off shore. In my case I never
worried about an offshore wind as it is so well sheltered.
The concrete will drag a little in a strong wind, then the anchors
will hold it fast. It is easy to haul up and move.
I just sink the mooring line in the winter, and run a line close
to shore to a concrete block to locate it in the Spring.
I first got the idea from Chapman's book. It cited a couple of
people doing it on Long Island. These were the only people that
still had boats after a hurricane went through.
^
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356.2 | Recycle some trash! | AD::GIBSON | Lobst'a Ayh'a I'm the NRA | Tue May 02 1989 12:27 | 44 |
| It sounds like your on a lake ? right? Not any current?
Your wellcraft must wiegh in at around 1600 lbs? depending on the size
engine.
This should do it. Go to Veryfine Apples and pick up 2 55gal Blue poly
barrels for about $2 bucks each, They ship fruit juise in them so there
clean. ie: No nasty Chemicals!
Cut one barrel in half with a skill saw using a combination blade.
Go to Spag's and purchase 15 additional feet than your water depth of
Galvenized 3/8 proof coil chain. ie: Water depth 10ft get 25 ft chain.
Also purchase 20 ft of 5/8 to 3/4 inch Nylon Line 3 strand twisted will
do, no need to buy double braid unless you want to.
While your there pick up a 3/8 to 1/2in shackle, a 1/2" eye bolt 3"long
and nut. Make sure this stuff is Galv!
Drill a few small holes 1/8 in is good in the half of the barrel in
rendom places. Use twine and tie 2-3 ft of chain suyspended in the
barrel using the small holes to hold the twine.
Fill the barrel with concreate!
Attach the other end of the chain to the whole barrel using the eyebolt
and shackle. Be sure to use washers and back up the eye bolt with a
scrap of wood on the inside of the barrel, The access whole is about 2"
dia. So it will be a bit tricky.
Seal the access holes in the "Float" Barrel with silicone calking and
the plugs that came with the barrels (Make sure you get these when you
pick up the barrels)
Attach your Painter Line to the shackle by braiding a loop in both ends
of the line. Drop the whole shebang in the water where your going to
moor. and loop the painter around your forward cleat or shackle it to
your bow eye.
You can get fancy and paint your mooring bouy with your name if its
required where you will be.
Have fun!?
Walt
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356.3 | From the block to the surface | TOMCAT::SUTER | Gentlemen, start your *marine* engines! | Thu May 11 1989 21:47 | 28 |
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CGVAX2::CLARK_J 19 lines 11-MAY-1989 16:25
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another question on moorings
if the depth is 15 ft and the boat is a 17ft i/o,you would need
15 ft of 5/16/chain and 15 ft of 5/16 to 3/8 nylon rope attached
to the eyebolt on the bottom and the bottom of the float at the
top.
and probably 5-6 ft of pennant.
may be a silly question but do you tie the nylon to the chain and
to the float ofr do you secure it in some other way.tying it
seems,somewhatno permanent.
i probably should have entered this in the other mooring question
but i wasn't sure if it would be seen.
thanks,
Q
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356.4 | Tie me kangaroo down | TOMCAT::SUTER | Gentlemen, start your *marine* engines! | Thu May 11 1989 21:47 | 23 |
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Note 373.1 from the block to the surface? 1 of 1
AD::GIBSON "Lobst'a Ayh'a I'm the NRA" 13 lines 11-MAY-1989 17:01
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I'm sure the modeator will move this back to the mooring question
anyway, so.
The Nylon line ( rope if you will) is spliced back into itself using a
thimble to reduce abrasion on both ends. The line is then shackled to
the chain.
For how-to splice. get a copy of chapmans at the libary. It has vey
good directions. It's not difficult once you learn, just follow it step
by step.
Walt
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356.5 | | TOOK::SWIST | Jim Swist LKG2-2/T2 DTN 226-7102 | Wed Feb 28 1990 18:30 | 7 |
| I'm confused in this discussion between the use of chain and nylon
rope.
Which is preferred for salt water for the mooring line (the big line
between the sunk and floating parts of the mooring)?
You can see how much I know about this!
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356.6 | oceans | MSCSSE::BERENS | Alan Berens | Wed Feb 28 1990 19:45 | 17 |
| I dunno about lakes and stuff, but ocean harbors have harbormasters and
(usually) mooring regulations that specify exactly what mooring
equipment must be used. My Marblehead mooring has a 2500 lb concrete
block, 35' of 5/8" bottom chain, 35' of 3/8" top chain, and a 15' 1" nylon
pennant plus a second, backup 1" nylon pennant. This is only slightly
more than required by the harbor regulations for a 32' boat. And the top
chain must be replaced every two years. And all the chain must be
US-made. And the entire mooring must be hauled and inspected every three
years. Of course, Marblehead does get some severe gales spring and fall.
The pennant goes from the float to the boat, the 3/8 chain goes
from the float to the bottom chain, and the bottom chain to the concrete
block. I personally would never, ever, under any circumstances use
anything but chain under water. Nylon under load will chafe though very
quickly, and who know what rocks, logs, beer cans, and other trash are
lurking on the bottom. Nylon is for short-term anchoring, chain is for
more than overnight anchoring and mooring.
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356.7 | | TOOK::SWIST | Jim Swist LKG2-2/T2 DTN 226-7102 | Thu Mar 01 1990 13:18 | 18 |
| Are the earlier replies directing us to Spag's for these mooring parts
because:
1) Spag's has a heavy duty marine hardware department and these
things are hard to find?
or
2) Lots of places have these things but Spag's is cheap.
or
3)?
Spag's is a long drive for me.
Jim
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356.8 | Noter's good deed for the day | ROGER::GAUDET | Nothing unreal exists | Thu Mar 01 1990 15:37 | 10 |
| RE: .7
Jim, I noticed your location is LKG which isn't too far from the Mill (that's
where I'm at). I live about 5 minutes from Spag's so if you can describe
exactly what you want I'd be glad to check out availability and prices. I
usually get to Spag's about once a week for my old-ladie's-elbows-to-the-ribs
treatment. :-) I'm sure we can work out some sort of payment/delivery
arrangements should you decide to buy.
...Roger...
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356.9 | | TOOK::SWIST | Jim Swist LKG2-2/T2 DTN 226-7102 | Thu Mar 01 1990 16:00 | 5 |
| It takes me 45 min, but I do go once in a while. I just never knew
they had any marine stuff. I'll probably take a look see myself - what
department do I go to? (I know, halfway between the fishing tackle
and the ladies shoes :-)
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356.10 | ...Chain for me in 1990... | AISVAX::YELINEK | WITHIN 10 | Thu Mar 01 1990 16:51 | 18 |
| 95.672% of the moorings in the Parker River in Newbury Ma. are
constructed with heavy chain from the mushroom anchor (or concrete
block)...to nylon line with the obvious thimbles in place to the
bouy. After conversations with people over the winter...(Norm Burbine
for one)...I decided to change my nylon over to 3/8" chain for the
upcoming season. This is consistent with my original intentions
for a mooring set-up as described in Chapmans. I was swayed into
using the nylon last year cause...if everyone else does, why not?
Or as another put it:When in Rome(Newbury)...do as the Romans(Newburys)
do.
Norm had a good point...in my River, where the low water around
my mooring can be 2.5 to 4ft. deep, the nylon rope may not hang straight
down from the bouy and may easily come in contact with a
propeller !@#!$%! The chain would always hang straight down and is
less apt to be severed by a propeller blade.
/MArk
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356.11 | | TOOK::SWIST | Jim Swist LKG2-2/T2 DTN 226-7102 | Thu Mar 01 1990 16:57 | 8 |
| If I want to buy a 150lb mushroom anchor as opposed to 2 bags of
concrete and DIY,
where would I go for one?
about what would it cost?
Jim
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356.12 | | AISVAX::YELINEK | WITHIN 10 | Thu Mar 01 1990 17:10 | 11 |
| Roughly, the mushrooms cost $1.00/pound. Baert Marine has 'em in
Danvers Ma...Marine Speculator in Salem Ma...Marine Exchange in
Peabody Ma.
Stay away from the mushroom anchors which are made outside the U.S.
These type are shipped over in 2 pieces. The retailer screws the
shaft into the heavy dish when received. Word has it that this
type have sustained many failures as compared to the MAde In USA
ones. Some insurance companies will suggest against using the foreign
mushrooms if they know (and ask) you are planning to moor your boat.
Mine did.
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356.13 | North end of Spag's | ROGER::GAUDET | Nothing unreal exists | Fri Mar 02 1990 14:22 | 8 |
| Jim...
Only part of Spag's that I know of with marine equipment is down by the
automotive section (just after the phone/TV parts and video tapes). That would
be at the end furthest from the Rt. 9 side. I've seen line, winches, bilge
pumps, trailer lights, and other assorted marine equipment there.
...Roger...
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356.16 | SIZES REQUIRED IN BOURNE | GIAMEM::BURBINE | | Fri Mar 02 1990 18:56 | 75 |
356.17 | | TOOK::SWIST | Jim Swist LKG2-2/T2 DTN 226-7102 | Thu Mar 15 1990 17:44 | 6 |
| OK, one more stupid mooring question (I'll buy a copy of Chapman's
when I get over the price :-)
What's a pennant?
What's a painter?
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356.18 | two questions, four answers | MSCSSE::BERENS | Alan Berens | Thu Mar 15 1990 18:09 | 15 |
| pennant:
1. A long, tapering flag used for signalling or identification.
2. The line from the boat to the mooring bouy.
painter:
1. Someone who applies protective coatings (usually called paints) to
boats.
2. The line used to tow a dinghy (often found wrapped around a
propeller).
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356.19 | Mooring Constr. Question | NEMAIL::COLVIN | | Wed May 29 1991 12:27 | 23 |
| I have a question regarding mooring construction. My father has a 19
foot power boat which is moored in fresh water (Lake Champlain, Vermont
side). The mooring is in about 9-10 feet of water. The chain from the
anchor (a tractor engine block and transmission case chained together)
needs to be replaced due to wear on the links, not necessarily due to
corrosion. In the Fall, the buoy is removed and the chain is connected
to a wire which is fastened to a tree on shore to prevent ice damage,
so the anchor and chain are in the water year-round. The bottom is
muddy so the anchor sinks into it and has never had a problem dragging.
My question concerns the replacement of chain. Since chain wear seems
to be the primary problem, then corrosion, I am considering replacing
it with stainless steel cable, probably 1/4 inch, using thimbles where
it connects to the anchor and buoy. A contractor friend of my father's
has had great luck with this cable using it to reinforce permanent wood
and stone docks. It looks like new after a few years in the water.
Given the 9-10 foot depth I would probably use about 20 feet of cable
net after the connections. What do you think of this idea? Any
suggestions? I have a scuba-diver friend who check the bottom every
year so I can keep an eye on it, but I do not want to have to pull it
regularly to maintain it. Thanks for your input.
Larry
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356.20 | Some thoughts | EXPRES::GILMAN | | Wed May 29 1991 14:32 | 35 |
| I have one concern with that arrangement. S.S. is fine as long as the
surrounding environement is not OXYGEN POOR because S.S. builds a
protective (and maintains) the protective film as long as O2 is
available. The anchor is under the mud (oxygen poor area?). Perhaps
oversize chain from the anchor with a swivel and thimble to match the
new chain to the S.S. cable? That would insure that the cable didn't
spend too much time under the mud attached to the anchor. I used S.S.
wire rope on my boat mooring once and I found after a thunderstorm that
all but ONE stand had snapped. One advantage to the chain is that it
acts as a catenary (spring) to absorb the shock load of wave action via
the chains weight. I did not have any chain to act as dead weight to
absorb shock when my wire rope almost snapped completely. Also, I may
have had too small wire rope for the shock loads. Wear in mooring gear
is unavoidable... the trick as you are trying is to minimize it.
Another thought is what about winter when you let that wire rope sink
into the mud? S.S. prop shafts pitting between the shaft O.D. and the
I.D. of the propeller hub is a classic example of S.S. corroding in an
oxygen poor area. Another place S.S. should not be used would be S.S.
screws driven into constantly wet wood... that creates an O2 poor
area between the screw O.D. and the wood.
S.S. should be used in open areas when under water... not in situations
where is is trapped away from oxygen.
Stress corrosion in S.S. would be a concern under oxygen poor
conditions too... that is... the wire rope spends much of its life
burried in the mud... then suddenly during a storm its stretched out
tight with shock loads when it already was pitted when under the mud...
that scenerio sets it up for failure.
So... I suggest the chain leader from the block to the rope... and
keeping the wire rope out of the mud during the winter.
Jeff
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356.21 | Went With Chain | NEMAIL::COLVIN | | Tue Jul 09 1991 12:23 | 21 |
| Well, I took everyone's advice and rebuilt my father's mooring with
US-made 1/2" and 3/8" galvanized chain and shackles last weekend. I
appreciate the advice which also came off-line. With the help from some
friends, I hauled the whole works out of the water and re-rigged it.
In true Vermont yankee tradition the anchor is not exactly high-tech!
It consists of two 36"diameter mowing machine wheels of unknown vintage
but very stout, and a tractor transmission case. I would guess the
whole thing weighs about 125 lbs. and was sunk about 6-8" into the mud.
It was all two of us could do to drag it the last few feet out of the
water. Anyway, I wrapped about 7 ft. of the 1/2" chain around and
through the anchor parts and left 6 ft. of it extending from the
anchor. I then connected 15 ft. of 3/8" chain to the 1/2" with a swivel
between, and the 3/8" to the buoy. I safety-wired all the shackles with
stainless wire. I rigged the anchor so that the transmission case sits
on top of the wheels. I put the whole works back in the water, in a
depth of about 10'. About the only visible change is that the buoy
floats about 1" lower than before but the blue stripe is still above
water. BTW, the old chain was some well-worn 1/4". This whole rig
should last quite a while. Thanks again.
Larry
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356.22 | Pennant Needed | NEMAIL::COLVIN | | Fri Nov 22 1991 11:03 | 26 |
| After rebuilding my father's mooring (mentioned in .21) and using it
quite successfully this past season (thanks again for everyone's input)
the boat engine died at the end of the season and we wound up replacing
the boat (it was 25+ years old anyway) with a new 21' I/O runabout this
Fall. I intentionally built the mooring on the heavier-than-needed side
for the old boat since the inevitable could have happened at any time
so I think it will be fine for the new boat (about 2800 - 3000 lbs). I
do, however, need to replace the pennant on the mooring since the old
one was worn anyway and is no longer the right configuration. The old
on has a braided loop which fit on a deck cleat, the through a chock to
a spring clip which attached to the mooring. The new on will be
permanently attached to the mooring with a spring clip which will
attach to the bow eye on the boat.
My question is this: I have all the hardware but need to get a pennant
braided with loops and thimbles braided on both ends, with the spring
clip attached at one end. I know that it has been mentioned in this
notes file that braiding is not that difficult with a manual, but I am
very wary of committing a brand new boat to a pennant which is my first
braiding effort. I would like to find some place or someone experienced
to accomplish this and am willing to pay for this service. Any ideas?
Also, how long should the finished pennant be? Thanks in advance. I have
the whole Winter to accomplish this but know if I do not get started
now I will be scrambling in May!
Larry
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356.23 | can be done... | CSLALL::BORZUMATO | | Fri Nov 22 1991 11:12 | 8 |
|
I have a friend who is well qualified, and will do it for you
reasonably...
pls. call me a dtn 275-3743..
JIm
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356.24 | marine rigger or sailmaker | SELECT::SPENCER | | Fri Nov 22 1991 11:57 | 11 |
| RE: .22,
Jim B's suggestion is most likely to be least expensive. If done
basically the right way, strength in a braided loop is less an issue than
appearance -- it's easy to make it strong enough, but neatness takes some
work and/or experience.
Another alternative is to call any marine rigger (usually connected with
the larger full service yards on the shore) or a sailmaker.
J.
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356.25 | Splicing | SALEM::GILMAN | | Fri Nov 22 1991 13:26 | 4 |
| I can do the splicing you need... Have many years of experience with
splicing. Phone (603) 898-4755
Jeff
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356.26 | NYLON VS BRAID PENNANT | WISDOM::CORKUM | IM&T Infrastructure Operations Strategies | Tue Nov 26 1991 23:49 | 20 |
| HI LARRY!
You might want to stop in at BOAT U.S. (Waltham - Waverly Oaks Road)
and see if they 1) have some pre-spliced braided pennants made up in a
length that suits your needs, 2) persuade one of the salespersons to
splice the ends in his spare time (for a nominal fee of course), or 3)
buy the line there and have a go at it yourself (they sell marlinspike
literature too).
Then again, you could consider 3 strand nylon which is easier to splice and
the weavings are exposed so that you can readily detect any hint of failure
(rare). Nylon will also act better as a shock absorber than dacron. However,
I agree that braided line looks better.
bc
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356.27 | nylon | CSLALL::BORZUMATO | | Wed Nov 27 1991 10:50 | 12 |
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Nylon has more stretch than braid. Braid is much stronger
than nylon.
HOWEVER, the downfall of the braid is chafing, it looses
its strength rapidly as chafing begins.
For a mooring the goal is too keep the tension off the
mooring as much as possible, nylon is the perfect candidate
for this application.
JIm.
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356.28 | | MSCSSE::BERENS | Alan Berens | Wed Nov 27 1991 12:41 | 24 |
| re .27:
Er, nylon rope is made in many configurations, including twisted
three-strand and braided. Braid is somewhat stronger (around 10%) than
three-strand.
The major problem with ANY mooring pennant is chafe. An unprotected
pennant, regardless of its construction, can chafe through very quickly.
Pennants are typically quite short and thus won't stretch much under
varying load. However, any stretching will aggravate chafe as it will
cause the pennant to move against the chock. I'd recommend using the
largest pennant possible for two reasons: There is more of it to chafe
through and it will stretch less, minimizing chafe. The length of chain
from the mooring float to the mooring block/mushroom anchor/whatever
should be long enough to compensate for waves and tide. We use two 1"
braided nylon pennants on our boat in Marblehead. They are led through
two well-rounded chocks. So far our boat has survived two hurricanes and
several gales with no chafe on the pennants at all.
There are several notes in the SAILING conference (MSCSSE::SAILING) that
discuss moorings and pennants in detail.
Alan
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