Conference vicki::boats

    You could varnish it. Or you could use Watco Teak Oil.
    
    Be sure you seal the edges of the cuts you made. Wood filler
    won't do it.
    
    BUT PLEASE DON'T PAINT IT. one you do, thats it....
    
    JIm

    I would varnish it, possibly stain it before varnishing although
    varnishing alone will darken the color of the wood.  Try both
    (varnishing and staining/varnishing on a piece of the scrap).  The
    deck of my mahogany runabout was originally upholstered.  The 
    previous owner had stripped of the vinyl leaving bare marine plywood
    (I don't know what type of wood).  I plan on re-upholstering it like
    original but for now I sanded it down, lightly stained it with whatever
    I happened to have at the time, and carefully applied 8 coats of
    Helmsman (sp?) Marine Varnish (although any varnish with UV protection
    should be fine).  It even comes in a spray can if you don't have a
    large area to do.  The finish has held up really good even after having
    kids with sand covered feet running over it.  If it ever gets dull,
    you can bring back the finish by lightly sanding (or steel wool) and
    applying a few more coats of varnish.  My boarding ladder steps are
    teak and it seems like no matter how often I apply teak oil to them
    they look like they are dried out.  I would use something like a West 
    System epoxy to seal the edges of the plywood.  It bonds with the wood,
    can be sanded after cured, and you can varnish over it as it dries
    clear.  It is available at most marine supply stores.  Alot of the
    new mahogany boats being built now (like the Chris-Craft) utilize the
    West System.
    Wayne (who loves the look of wood, please don't paint it) Norcross

    I have teak on the inside and out. The teak on the inside only need a
    good teak oil rubdown once or twice a season.
    
    I would surely varnish the outside (exposed) teak if I knew a good
    varnish to use. Could anyone give some varnish
    experiences/recommendations?
    
    Thanks
    
    Joe D.

    I too would like to varnish/urethare the teak on my boat.  I have very
    little teak; the cabin door & hatch, side trim and storage compartment
    covers.  Every spring I clean and oil it and it looks great.  Three
    weeks later (exposed to salt water/weather) it looks almost as bad as
    before I cleaned it.  I suppose I should oil it more often; however
    that cuts into fishing time.
    
    If varnish is the answer I would not be opposed to removing all teak
    and finishing it on all sides and reinstalling it.  It would be a lot
    of work but after the first time it would just touchup work.
    
    Or... I could buy a Grady White which has look alike teak and never
    have to worry about it again.  Just the payments.
    
    Gordon
    

    Basically, don't do it outside during mayfly season. (I learned the
    hard way.)  You'll need a clean, dust free area to work.  Even sprinkle
    water on the floor if you need to keep the dust from flying.  Best to do it
    while it is not humid like early in the morning.  Use the best brush
    you can find for varnish. 100% natural black Chinese boar bristle 
    brushes are about the best but they cost between $10 and $30.  An
    alternative brush happens to be the cheapest, the foam throwaways also
    work good if you don't have a large area to do.  Pick one corner to 
    start at and don't allow any interruptions that will let the varnish
    start to dry before you do the next area.  Varnish "flows" into itself
    and brush strokes will go away as it flows.  You don't have to work 
    real fast as long as you work steadily.  Continue towards the other 
    end of whatever you are doing.  Never go back to touch-up an area that
    is partially dried.  If something lands (ie:mayfly) in the semi-dry 
    varnish, carefully remove it but wait till it is totally dry to sand
    the rough spot.  Once you have finished varnishing the whole area, let
    it dry per the mfg. instructions.  Once totally dry, you use very fine
    sandpaper over the entire surface.  Don't worry about the shine going
    away or the color turning a dull white.  The next coat brings it right
    back.  Wipe the sanded surface very good to remove all dust and do 
    another coat.  Repeat the whole process for as many coats as you wish.
    The more coats there are the more durable the finish will be and the
    longer before it will need to be stripped bare to redo.  Before the
    final coat, use the finest sandpaper or emory cloth you can find, clean
    it off, very lightly sand with steel wool, clean it off, and carefully
    do the final coat.  Hopefully nothing will land in at after you're
    done. I planned on doing five coats, quit at 8 when I realized nothing
    in life is perfect and I didn't plan on entering the boat in any
    antique/classic boat shows anyways.  It was meant to be used.  
    Wayne    

    I want to clarify one thing before someone goes and ruins their teak by
    varnishing it.  I am restoring a mahogany boat.  I've used varnish on
    mahogany, pine, and oak but never teak.  Teak is a naturally "oily"
    wood.  Does anyone know if varnish which is a petroleum product
    will "pull" the oil out of the teak and make the varnish cloudy or
    anything?
    
     Wayne

    You can Varnish Teak, or you can Plyurethane it. Your choice.
    
    Whatever you do, make sure you use a bristle brush for both.
    
    Poly is a petro oil based product as well. Teak will go dull
    
    no matter what you do. With teak oil, less than one season,
    
    Varnish, maybe < 2 seasons. The other thing i found out,
    
    don't bother trying to oil it again and again, its futile.
    
    JIm (who's learned the hard way)
    
    

    does it help to use the teak cleaner before you use teak oil?
    Can you use the teak oil you get for boats on any kind of teak
    (for example, a dining room table) or is it designed for "outside"
    teak.
    
    We've got teak strips on the outside of the cabin that need something
    to spruce them up.
    
    Linda

    
    I used teak cleaner on the swim platform of my boat last
    summer.  The boat was in its second season, and the teak
    had started to gray and mildew quite a bit.
    
    I was amazed at how well the cleaner worked - it made the
    teak look new!  The only difference now is that even after 
    re-oiling the color of the platform is quite a bit lighter
    than it was originally.  No big deal since I have no other
    exterior teak to match it to, although I did like the original
    darker color better.  Anyone know whether teak oil comes in
    darker shades than the clear stuff I have?
    
    Rick

    Couple of things you need to know about Teak oil.
    
    1. It does come is a light and dark variety, depends on the brand
       as to the shade of light and dark.
    
    2. Never, ever, never, ever use teak oil inside. Teak oil has
       a varnish mixed in with it, and it will never, ever dry
       as it will outside.
    
    3. if you need an oil for inside teak, Watco makes several
       varieties, or go to one of the Scandavian stores that sells
       teak furniture, they sell an oil for teak, they won't 
       "gum" up when used inside.
    
    i put teak oil on a cabinet inside my boat, what a mess,
    we had to redo the whole thing......
    
    JIm.
                  

    To anyone interested in an authority on interior and exterior wood
    finishing and maintenance I point you to a new book "Brightwork" by
    Rebecca Whitman.  We are following her recommended approach while
    refinishing the teak interior of our boat.  It is turning out looking
    better than new. 
    
    Since Steve (basenote author) works in the same office with me I'll
    gladly let him borrow it.  My vote is to varnish.
    
    	Howard

    Howard, where did you buy the book?  I'm interested in getting a copy.
    Thanks, Wayne

    You say Varnish. I don't disagree, but what in the book is so
    special about this process.....
    
    How about sharing it....
    
    JIm.

    re: .12
    
    I bought the book at the Elliott Bay Bookstore in Seattle.  I saw it
    advertised in the latest Dolphin Book Club offering.
    
    re: .13
    
    I don't know that there is anything new in her book, but I like the way
    the topic is presented.  It goes well beyond a "cookbook" approach of
    first doing step A then on to step B.  She addresses the backgrounds of
    varnish, oils, and the woods used on boats.  She also speaks to the
    attitude and commitment toward and rewards from well finished
    brightwork.
    
    In addition to the background information she covers the process of
    stripping old varnish and oil, repairing and preparing the wood,
    varnishing or oiling, and maintaining the finish.  In addition there
    are sections on refinishing the cabin sole, and the tools to use for
    all of the above.
    
    We have found the book to be a complete guide to relative novices to
    this sort of thing.  In addition to the "how to" aspects of the job she
    offers a lot of encouragement on staying with it in order to enjoy the
    rewards of beautiful, well finished wood.
    
    	Howard

    
    Re: the last couple
    
    BOAT/US carries that book.
    
    Rick

    Some thoughts on varnishing the interior brightwork:
    
    I've seen several boats interiors that have the brightwork
    varnished or polyurethaned. I thought it looked real nice.
    
    My only concern, is   no matter what you seem to try and
    do, it gets scratched, you just can't seem to avoid it.
    The more people that inhabit the enviornment the better the
    odds get, of it getting scratched.
    
    With an oil finish, a scratch is so simple to "fix"
    a swipe of the rag and its gone. Most interior brightwork
    will stand up well, as there not exposed to the elements.
    
    Unfortunately i can't say this for the exterior, its been
    a problem and a problem, and a problem.
    
    JIm

    
    
    This may be setting myself up for abuse,but......
    
    Brightwork was a term us old sailors used when referring
    
    to the various pieces of brass hardware/fittings that
    
    were used topside and could in effect be shined using
    
    the infamous NEVR_DULL. I shined enough of this stuff
    
    'cuz the occifers thought the ship ran better if it sparkled.
    
    
    Andy

    
    	Anyone doing spring cleanup yet?
    
    	The other day I tried some Teak Brightener. What a worthless
    product that is. The only effect it had was to lighten my wallet
    by a few bucks. I tried it on the swim platform as well as the
    terribly weathered/over oiled teak on the gunwhales. BTW: The 
    platform had no oil left on it.
    
    	I resorted to the old standby; elbow-grease, water and very fine steel
    wool. The gunwhale teak looks better then it did in 1987. The platform
    has yet to be done.
    
    It's getting warmer!!!
    
    Rick

    
    Howsa bout an easier way. "Snappy teak cleaner".
    
    Its unlike "Teka" that it doesn't eat into the pulp of
    
    the wood. Its a 2 part, last time i bought it they included
    
    to scrub brushes.  Teka teak cleaner does a good job, but
    
    it eats in to the pulp, and before long, you'll have these
    
    grooves in the teak..
    
    The one part types are "garbage" and don't even come close..
    
    JIm.
    

    Rick,
      Your supposed to use the Teak Cleaner (with a brass brush), *then*
    the teak brightener, and then the oil.  But your right, it's a real
    pain.  Last year I ended up resanding the whole platform and just
    oiling it (every couple of weeks for the whole summer)  This got out
    the raised pulp that J_BORZUMATO was referring to.
    
    Doug

re .18:

I hope you used bronze wool, not steel wool. Little particles break off 
and lodge in the grain of the wool. The steel will rust and leave 
stains. Bronze wool is, unfortunately, expensive.

Alan

    
    re: Doug,
    
    	Yeah, I know I was supposed to "clean" first, but I figured
    that there wasn't anything to clean on the platform. It's basically
    bare wood.
    
    re: Alan,
    
    	Thanks for the tip. I did use steel, but the strips along the
    gunwhales shouldn't be a real problem as I wiped and rinsed and wiped
    and rinsed them clean. I will invest in some bronze for the platform
    or use my bronze brushes.
    
    Rick
    
    Hey, anyone *really* like to wax the bottom of ski boats?  :-)

    I used the 3 step process 2 years ago (cleaner, brightener, oil) and
    went from black/grey teak to rich brown teak. Unfortunatly that color
    does not last long in the cockpit of a sportfisherman. This year
    I am just going to live with it and spend the time and energy
    enjoying the boat and keeping the functional components in good shape.
    
    Bruce

Re -1>

Bruce,
	I know what you mean. One of the reasons I liked my boat was the lack
of teak. The little I have looks nice but what a pain to keep it looking that 
way.
	I seem to recall a recent Grady White advertizement stating that they
are using a composite material instead of Teak this year. The purists might 
not like it but it sounds good to me. 

Regards,
Paul

    re .-2>
    
    2 years ago I spent a lot of time on my teak.  3 step in the spring and
    oiling it every other week.  Gotta agree with Bruce this year.  The
    heck with what it looks like, I want to use the boat.  Another
    way I might try to get around the teak is with some cockpit coaming. 
    Then all I'll have is the doors to the 2 coolers in the back:-)  The
    rest is nice and protected.  I love the look of new or clean teak, but
    hate the work.  Those new GW's have the fake stuff and for someone with
    not much time it looks pretty good to me.

    
    Last season I used Star Brite teak cleaner on my swim platform.
    I wiped it on, scrubbed it with a brass bristled brush, then
    hosed it off.  The stuff did a real nice job, and the platform 
    looked new after re-oiling.
    
    I didn't need to use any brightener, in fact the wood is now 
    lighter colored than it was originally.
    
    Rick

    We we're doing to well agreeing, Rick.
    
    There's 2 situations:
    
    1. Boats at slips for the season.
    
    2. ""     " trailered and left at home.
    
    Those that are trailered and at home, probably don't see
    the conditions of those left exposed to the sun and salt.
    
    We may have 2 approaches, 1 which is much less intensive
    and the other which requires 2 part cleners.
    
    JIm.

    RE: Jim
    
    This is true.  My boat has never been left in the water over
    night, and is covered with one of those blue tarps while not 
    in use.  The platform was looking a little shabby after a season
    and a half, but nothing compared to a boat that's left in the 
    water all the time.  A little teak cleaner was all it took
    to make it look new, but your mileage may vary.
    
    Rick

	Yesterday I bought;   Bronze wool for about $4,  a medium 
sized bronze brush for almost $5,  a small bronze brush for a couple 
of dollars  and a ball of stainless steel wool for about 4 1/2 
dollars, total with tax was a little over $15.   Somehow my wife 
thought I'd bought them for the kitchen - she thanked me  VERY MUCH, 
I didn't have the heart to explain.

	Reg

    Anyone know a local (So. NH, or No of Boston) source for teak boards. I
    need a single piece to repair a small ladder platform.
    
    ~jeff

    A quick look in the yellow pages shows
    
    	Holt Bugbee Co
    	1600 Shawsheen Rd
    	Tewksbury Ma
    	1-800-332-5035
    
    	New England Hardwood Supply Co
    	100 Taylor Rd
    	Littleton Ma
    	508-486-8683
    
    Be sitting down when you ask for a price.
    

Or try Boulter Plywood in Somerville. Last time I was there they let me 
pick through the stack to choose my boards. Not cheap. They also have 
small pieces, I think.