Conference vicki::boats

    This is not in NH but they are the shop that many dealers send out
    to. It is H and H Prop Shop in Salem Mass on 1 Essex St. 617-744-3806
    
    They have rebuilt props for me and charge around $55 for my 19 inch
    aluminum wheel.
    
    Bruce

    Ditto on the H&H. They repaired my 13x13 Nibel Bronze prop for about
    $60 and it was better than new. (i.e. They buffed it up) Turn-around
    is pretty quick too.
    
    Doug.

    You can try Land & Sea Performance on Rt. 111 in Hampstead/Atkinson
    N.H., A friend mine works there and told me they can do it. The
    price I'm unsure of. This place can make your boat stand up on its
    transem,NOS systems,Turbo Charging, you name if the cash is there.
    
                                                        Guy

    
    Performance Boats of Northern NE (603-627-1250). The prices are
    depended on how much time is required to fix the prop. I had a prop
    fixed for $25.00 The turn around time is very fast and craftmanship
    is good. They are located about 1/2 mile north of Owens Marine on
    the right hand side of the road, take the RT 28 exit and left at
    the bottom of the ramp.
    
    	Mike
    

    Before I drive up to the lake to remove my prop which went rock
    hunting last weekend, what does it take to remove a prop?
    
    Its a 70hp Johnson OB.
    
    ~jeff

    
    
    /pliers to remove the cotter pin....and a 1/2" rachet and sockets
    should do the trick/

    
    

    BRING ALONG A LIGHT OIL SPRAY, WD-40 OR NAPA PENETRATING OIL,
    SOMETIMES THE SHAFT BINDS A LITTLE ON THE PROP AND FIGHTS
    BACK. ITS NO BIG DEAL, BUT BETTER TO HAVE IT.
    THE TOOLS IN THE PREVIOUS NOTE SHOULD BE SUFFICIENT.
    
    
    JIM.
                                                  
    
    
    

    As with any repair job you will also need a rather large hammer and
    some duct tape.   <:*)
    
    Mike

    I picked up a new prop @ Owens Marine in Manchester NH. I mentioned
    that I wanted the old one repaired. The guy behind the counter stated
    that they have tried a half dozen local places but found a guy in
    Mass to be the best. Let me guess I said, "H&H in Salem". Yea, thats
    the place.
    
    Chock up another vote for H&H. I thought it funny that he didn't
    mention the place up the road a half mile.
    
    I think I have every thing I need now, pliers,blender,hammer,duct
    tape,and an adjustable metric wrench. Yup, all set.  Thanx guys
    
    ~jeff
         

    Also a block of wood to put between one of the prop blades and the
    cavitation plate. Makes it MUCH easier to loosen and tighten the prop
    nut than trying to hold the prop with your hand.
    
       Bill
    

    RE: .10--Bill
    
    Most props that I've played with on I/Os shouldn't be that tight.
    The cotter pin ensures not losing the prop, not the tightness of
    the nut. 
    
    If you *DO* encounter an extra-tight nut, though, can anyone see
    any harm in using the gears to hold the prop shaft fast while the
    nut's being loosened? Oh yea, turn off ignition and disconnect the
    coil wire in case you're *really* strong!
    
    Mike

    Stupid question??  What outdrive has a cotter pin???

    Yes, Mike, I'm referring to OMC. 
    
    

    If i'm not mistaken the reason you tighten the prop is to compress the
    rubber bushing to an amount that allows it to take the torque of take
    off and acceleration. The owners manual for the motor should tell you
    how many footpounds you need but I beleive it is over a hundred. I've
    always done mine with a block of wood and a breaker bar.
    
       Bill
    

    
    	And then some of us can't get the dern thing off.....
                                             
    
    	I tried, without success, to remove Corrective Action's prop
    yesterday. Ah yes, if only I'd removed it last year.... :-(
    
    	Any hints, short of a puller of some sort? BTW: A block of
    wood and a hammer didn't work...
    
    Rick
    

    Try a bigger hammer!  ;^)
    Seriously, I just use my trusty rubber mallet and it comes right off.
    Let me know when you plan on sending it out and maybe we can attempt
    to get our *group* discount at H&H.
    Doug 

Rick,
    Sorry to tell you buddy but there is no better way than the puller.
I went trough the same thing and more.  Don't mess around, don't waste 
time trying to use whatever puller you have at hand.  Call C.C. and get
the one that is made for it.  Even with this you won't believe the effort 
it takes to get it off, and the bang when it finally pops off scares the
h**l out of you, so be forwarned.  Cost around $30 I think, Chuck will
probably correct me if wrong.

Rob

RE: Note 46.15   

>> Any hints, short of a puller of some sort?


Rick,
Rather than concentrate on finding ways around using a puller, put 
your efforts into finding the correct puller.  You'll be glad you
did in the long run.  Try the local rental shop, they usually rent 
all kinds of pullers.  A few bucks spent on a half day rental could 
save you a ton of aggravation.  Replacement props and shafts aint 
cheap.

In my vast experience of breaking stuff, I've found that it always pays
to use the correct tool and some patience rather than a bigger hammer
and adrenalyn.  Now if I could only get myself to take my own advice...

Rick

    I concur with all the replies around getting the right puller.  It
    ain't worth the hassle if you break something.  Whacking the prop with
    a hammer does more damage than you think, like to the shaft, the strut,
    the coupling, and even the tranny itself.  Don't screw with it, get the
    puller.  Back when I replaced my shaft, my prop was "stuck" so I
    removed the whole sh-bang (prop and shaft) and brought it to a machine
    shop where they put it on this humongous machine and needed to apply
    over 3000 lbs of thrust to remove the prop.  Incredibly, the prop
    balanced perfectly afterward and the shaft was straight.  I considered
    myself VERY lucky.
    
    FYI, I've seen the pullers advertised in the ski mags by the same
    company (A.R.E. in Oregon?) that supplies replacement shafts,
    couplings, props, etc.  I think it goes for about $30 (I could look it
    up, but I'm sure you have a copy of "Water Ski" or "The Water Skier"
    lying around).  Well worth the investment.  Besides, when I need one, I
    know who to call!  :-)
    
    ...Roger...

    
    	Ah yes... set straight again by the straight inboard crowd....
    
    	I'll check out the Correct puller....
    
    	Rick
    
    	Afterall, one reverse gear installation in a lifetime is enough!

	Maybe the gumballer's club should jointly own things like this 
- $5 a share ?

	If you're in a heckuva hurry you could just trailer it down to Forrest
Marine in Tyngsborough.  Ask for Bob, say I sent Ya, etc (-:

	Reg	{I'll be in there this thursday and again on saturday}

		

    You could try the method that William F. Buckley described in his book,
    "Airborne". They got a prop off using cordite.
    
    bill
    
    ;^)

    
    RE: .22
    Should we all run out and buy William F. Buckley's book, or would
    mind clueing us in on his method?  And what the heck is Cordite?
    
    Rick

    cord-ite (kor'dit) n. A smokeless explosive powder consisting of
    nitrocellulose, nitroglycerine, and petrolatum dissolved in acetone,
    dried, and extruded in cords.
    
    bill
    
    p.s. In Buckley's case, it had a bit more than the desired effect, but
    it got the prop off.

    
        ...do ya light it ? ...or are blasting caps necessary.
    
    
    
    
    

    
    Bill,
    Thanks for the description of Buckley's method and Cordite for 
    us non-literary types.  Cordite sounds like just the ticket for 
    working on the sn*wmobile I recently picked up.  If it doesn't 
    do the trick on that stuck bearing I'll just wrap it around the 
    whole machine and no more problems.....
                              
    Rick                                  

re   <<< Note 46.15 by ARCHER::SUTER "Gentlemen, start your *marine* engines!" >>>
>                        -< that dern thang is stuck... >-

    
>    	And then some of us can't get the dern thing off.....

	Hmmm, personal problem, is it ?



	Lemme guess;

i)	You've given up - at least for this winter ?

ii)	You've decided that it will be twice as much fun to get it off 
	next winter if you leave it another year ?

iii)	It fell off ?

iv)	You took it to the ramp, removed the cotter pin and nut, 
	backed into the water, chocked the truck wheels, kept the boat
	firmly attached to the trailer and revved it to 4500 in
	reverse.  The prop removed itself and is still embedded in the
	opposite bank of the river ?

v)	We're gonna have an acetylene torch party at your place for 
	new year ?

vi)	You scrounged a loan of the tool at Forrest ?

vii)	You bought the tool ?  (but don't want us to know in case we 
	scrounge it off you)

viii)	You're waiting for someone else to buy the tool so you can 
	scrounge it ?  (Well, see ii above)

ix)	You're waiting to see how high I can count in lower case roman 
	numerals ?

x)	You're gonna trade it with the prop on and your next boat 
	doesn't have that kind of prop (through prop exhaust, perhaps) ?

xi)	Magic ?


	R

re                       <<< Note 46.27 by ULTRA::BURGESS >>>
>                          -< ..and the answer is ??? >-


xii)	You took it to the ramp, removed the cotter pin and nut, 
	backed into the water, chocked the truck wheels, kept the boat
	firmly attached to the trailer and revved it to 4500 in
	reverse.  The prop didn't come off, but the truck and trailer 
	are now in the middle of the Murky mac, under an inch of ice ?
	Understandably, you're shy to tell us about it.

	R

    
    
    	Well.... I managed to get the truck/trailer and prop out
    of the frozen Merrimack.... :-)
    
    	Since our group discount on prop repair fell thru it's time
    for me to take the parts to H&H. Is anyone planning a trip to 
    Salem any time soon?
    
    Rick

    
    	Oh yeah..... H&H does rudders, also............
    

    Yup, I'm planning on going to H&H in the the next week or two.
    Why do you ask?   
    Would you like to send you prop and rudder through interorifice snail?
    (I'm kidding, of course...)
    BTW: The 13X13 Nibrel (cupped) is about $68 bucks. Don't know 'bout
    rudders.
    Doug.

    
    re: Doug,
    
    	I was hoping to make it down there a little sooner... like this
    week.. Is your prop already there?
    
    Rick

    Nope, my prop isn't there yet, but due too lack of $$...You know the
    story...
    Doug who just spent about:  $400 for barefoot stuff,
                                $100 for boat/trailer registration
                                $350 for insurance renewal
                                $ 75 for tune-up items
                                $ 50 for maintenance items
                      And the mortgage payment is due..:^(

    
    	He's got the tool, he's got the talent!
    
    	Well, my prop puller (a glorified C clamp) arrived from A.R.E.
    today, which means a trip to H&H is in order. Doug, want to take a
    ride Monday afternoon?
    
    Rick
    
    BTW: This device can be rented from RLS Rentals for a mere $5 a day :-)
    

    With all this talk of running to H&H, I thought I would ask where
    exactly it is in Salem.  That is N.H. correct?  I have two props that
    need some repair.  I would like to drop them off soon.  How long should
    I plan to wait for the repair?  How much might I expect to save from
    dropping then off at my local marine?  I had gotten an estimate from
    then of $55 each.
    
    Thanks,
    Rich

    They have two shops:
    
         1 Essex St. Ext.                       5541 Bath Rd.
         Salem, MA 01970                        Brunswick, ME 04011
         (508) 774-3806                         (207) 442-7595
    
    I have a current price list in my office (too long to type right now.)
    
    What size/type/material is your prop (and is it cupped) and I'll give
    you their price to unding and balance.
    
    Doug

The following are the current price lists for reconditioning and static 
    balancing of propellers from H&H Propeller Shop inc. located in Salem, Mass
     and Brunswick, Maine.  Use these
prices for comparison when getting quotes through your local dealers, but be
aware that most dealers in the area (New England) use H&H for their repairs.
The dealers get a 10 - 30% discount depending on volume (a discount you'll
probably never see from your dealer - maybe an increase?) and dealers usually
wait until they have a full shipment before sending to H&H.  On the other hand,
walk-ins (to H&H) are 4-5 days turnaround or 7-days during their busy season,
(like now). If you need a rush job, I'm sure they can accomodate you.

For more info, contact them directly:

              1 Essex St. Ext.                5541 Bath Rd.
              Salem, MA 01970                 Brunswick, ME 04011
              (508) 744-3806                  (207) 442-7595
          FAX (508) 745-3984              FAX (207) 442-7248     
             
The usual disclaimers apply; neither I nor my ancestors have any affiliation
with H&H other than (unfortunately) *repeat* customers. (seems to be an annual
event)  Oh yeah, they also refurb rudders, driveshafts, etc, dynamic balancing
of props and driveshafts and sell exhaust parts, props, strut bearings, etc... 
===============================================================================

                             Effective 1/1/90

       Outboard and Stern Drive Price List for Reconditioning Props
  
Diameter:         Alum Uncupped:     Alum Cupped:     S/S:      Hi-perf S/S:
=========         ==============     ============     ====      ============
 6"  - 10"          $ 26.50            $ 33.00       $ 57.50        ---
10.25"-12.75"         38.00              47.00         82.50        ---
13"  - 16"            49.50              59.50        110.00       150.00
16.25"-18"            59.50              75.00        135.00       175.00
18.25" & larger - call for quotes
Volvo wide blade and Duo-Prop - $70.00

- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -

                 All welding is included in above prices
Cupping propellers:  Alum props - $6.00 net each blade
                     S/S props - $10.00 net each blade

Repair of hubs or diffuser ring net extra

--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
             Inboard Price List for Reconditioning Propellers

Diameter:               Price for 3-blade:          Price for 4-blade:
=========               ==================          ==================
  10"                       $ 39.50                        ---
  11"                         45.50                        ---
  12"                         47.50                        ---
  13"                         52.50                        ---
  14"                         59.50                        ---
  15"                         69.50                        ---
  16"                         79.50                        ---
  17"                         85.50                      $107.50
  18"                         96.25                       121.00
  19"                        112.25                       138.50
  20"                        126.00                       158.00
  22"                        147.50                       184.25
  24"                        163.25                       204.50
  26"                        190.25                       237.50
  28"                        208.00                       260.00
  30"                        258.00                       322.50
  32"                        279.50                       345.90
  34"                        308.00                       385.00
  36"                        320.50                       401.50
  38"                        346.00                       432.50
  40"                        415.00                       519.50
- - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - - -
Prices are for standard bronze propellers. Prices on application are available
for diameters over 40", dynamic balancing and other materials.

Pitch changes of more than 2", diameter reduction and cupped props, add 30%.

Cupping propellers up to 18" diameter $8.00 per blade net extra, 19" to 24"
diameter $12.00 per blade net extra, over 24" diameter quoted.

The above reconditioning prices include a certain amount of welding based on
the diameter of the propeller.  Excessive welding is net extra.

Folding and feathering propellers based on time and material basis.

[H&H's disclaimer]
We take a personal interest in every job and endeaver to do our best to turn out
first class work. However we cannot be held responsible for propellers that 
break during repair process. All repairs performed at owners risk.
================================================================================
D.W.
  

    Ross, take a ride to Salem or let UPS do the work for you.  From what I
    am told, all props refurbished at a marina in this area really get sent
    to H + H.  I had very good luck dealing directly with them.  Maybe a 1
    hour ride from Salem, NH to  Salem, Ma.
    Wayne