| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 1339.1 | nuts to electric FW pumps | VLNVAX::FRENIERE | | Thu Sep 07 1989 13:00 | 10 |
| After three years of fighting with the Par pumps, I'm going to
install the Whale foot pump for next year. I'm tired of killing
batteries because the pressure sensing method used. As soon as the
pressure drops a bit, the motor takes a shot and the current draw is
very high, heating the motor and sucking up battery juices. In
desperation, I added switches by the two sinks, so I'm back to a manual
system anyhow......, that is after one burn't out motor and two
batteries...
Don
|
| 1339.2 | As simpler as better | KBOMFG::LOEST | | Fri Sep 08 1989 05:37 | 13 |
| I have been fighting the last eight years with the water pumps on
charter boats. Always told the crew switch it of when you don't
need it, they never did and guess what happend battery empty....
run out of water because of leakages (pretty bad down in Greece
because difficult to get). This year I had a boat with footpump and
IT WORKED GREAT
Other thaught I always fight for on a boat, as less tech you have on
a boat as less can fail and need repair.
Klaus
|
| 1339.3 | Try a pressure tank | RAINBO::BURR | | Fri Sep 08 1989 16:26 | 12 |
| I use a Par pressure pump (diaphragm type) coupled with a separate
pressure tank. With this setup, I have about 30 psi of pressure water
and have had no problems with either excessive battery drain or pump
reliability. I had to install this sort of system on the boat when I
decided to go to a pressure actuated gas fired hot water heater rather
than a engine based heat exchanger. It's great to get up in the
morning and be able to take a HOT shower without running the engine.
If you have a separate pressure tank, you will find that the pump will
only run for very short bursts every 5-10 seconds when the water is
turned on and will maintain pressure indefinately when water is no
flowing.
|
| 1339.4 | | USEM::FERGUSON | | Thu Sep 14 1989 12:09 | 19 |
| I have an accumulator tank with an adjustable on/off pressure limit
setting. This switch has points like an automobile ignition which
are worn but don't seem to be a problem.
When the switch calls for the pump to work , the curcuit breaker
trips after a half minute many times. The specs on the pump say
it draws 16 amps to start 12 to run and the breaker is 20 amps.
With the engine running and the 12v fan on there is a higher level
of success. More power available?
I"ve been looking in the catalogs and find the big Par diaphragm
type and shurflo parmate types. I wonder when repair kits are listed
immediately afer each diaphragm listing. Any advice?
I missed the issue of PS that covered these pumps.
Thanks Bill
|
| 1339.5 | accumulator and gas-fired heaters | WJO::SCHLEGEL | | Mon Sep 18 1989 18:01 | 8 |
| RE: 1339.3
Can you tell me more about your gas fired hot water heater? My little
atomic 4 is so efficient, it takes a long time for me to heat up hot
water! Also, what is the approximate size of your pressure tank? My
direct pump has worked flawlessly for 10 years, but I would like to
avoid the pump coming on every time we use water.
|
| 1339.6 | 10 year wonder | USEM::FERGUSON | | Tue Sep 19 1989 17:38 | 3 |
| Could you tell me what type of pump and which mfg made your 10 year
pump?
|
| 1339.7 | Pump Mfr | WJO::SCHLEGEL | | Mon Oct 02 1989 15:05 | 3 |
| As soon as I get back aboard. Been awfully busy..
|
| 1339.8 | Practical Sailor says.... | NETMAN::CARTER | | Mon Oct 02 1989 15:36 | 8 |
| Practical Sailor has an extensive write-up on pressure pumps for water
systems in the latest edition.
Just in time, too. I'm planning to put in pressure water during the off
season.
djc
|