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Conference unifix::sailing

Title:SAILING
Notice:Please read Note 2.* before participating in this conference
Moderator:UNIFIX::BERENS
Created:Wed Jul 01 1992
Last Modified:Mon Jun 02 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:2299
Total number of notes:20724

506.0. "Bottom Maintenance" by PLANET::BURNHAM () Thu Mar 19 1987 17:08

    HI, I'M JACK BURNHAM AND I HAVE BEEN SAILING FOR FIVE YEARS.
    I AM OWN AN O'DAY 22 AND MOOR OUT OF BASS RIVER. SHE'S
    NAMED "SALESMANSHIP". I BOUGHT THE BOAT PRIOR TO LAST SEASON.
    
       I HAVE TWO QUESTIONS REGARDING WORK ON THE BOTTOM OF THE
    BOAT. FIRST, WHEN I PULLED THE BOAT OUT OF THE WATER IT WAS
    GAUGED UNDER THE BOW ON THE STARBOARD SIDE. THE GAUGE IS ABOUT
    SIX INCHES AND YOU CAN SEE THE FIBER GLASS BUT NO DAMAGE TO IT.
    WHAT IS THE BEST MATERIAL TO REPAIR IT AND WHAT STEPS SHOULD
    I TAKE IN THE PROCESS?  SECOND, LAST YEAR I USED INTERLUX
    FIBERGLASS ANTI-FOULING BOTTOM PAINT AND BARNICLES STILL 
    FOUND A HOME ON THE BOTTOM. I ONLY USED ONE COAT OF PAINT.
    ARE THERE ANY SUGGESTIONS AROUND PROTECTING THE BOTTOM MORE?
    ALSO, IS THERE A BETTER PAINT ON THE MARKET?
    
       I AM RELATIVELY NEW TO BOTH NOTES AND SALT WATER SAILING.
    ANY HELP ON THE ABOVE WOULD BE MOST APPRECIATED.
    
    JACK

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506.1GRAMPS::WCLARKWalt ClarkThu Mar 19 1987 17:2013
    To fill the gouge, you can use either a polyester resin/hardner
    with thickener added to make a paste, or something like Marine-
    Tex (waterproof "Bondo") which will hold, is easy to fair and
    is waterproof.
    
    Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote needs at least 2 good (not thinned
    more than 10%) coats to provide enough cupric oxide to get thru
    a season.  You might look for another vinyl or epoxy paint with
    60-70% Cupric oxide so less paint last longer.
    
    Have a nice season,
    Walt

506.2MORGAN::HOThu Mar 19 1987 21:3419
    Go with the Marine-tex.  It's more waterproof than the stuff the
    rest of the hull is made of.  The only drawback is that it's distinctly
    more difficult to work with than the polyester fillers because of
    its stiffness.  Avoid excessive buildup above the level of the
    surrounding surface.  It really requires a lot of elbow grease
    to sand it flush. 
    
    Bottom paints don't really prevent marine growth.  They just make
    it easier to get it off.  No matter what you put on, it's probably
    a good idea to go over the side periodically to scrub with a scotch
    brite pad.  If you have the swing keel version, this can be fairly
    painless.  The manufacturers all seem to recommend two coats.  This
    is like a barber recommending a haircut a week.  My experience is
    that it doesn't work any better.  Just more work and money.  Especially
    when taking off vinyls that have built up too thick.  The perfect
    bottom paint is the holy grail of boating.  I've been searching
    for years with only a terrific collection of half empty paint cans
    to show for it.

506.3more suggestionsPULSAR::BERENSAlan BerensThu Mar 19 1987 23:0510
You could also fill the gouge with an epoxy/microspheres mixture. It 
adheres well, sands easily, and is waterproof (see the Gougeon West 
catalog).

We've used Woolsey Blue Streak for several years with good results. Two 
coats the first year and one coat every year since. Some slime (that 
washes off completely when pressure washed) at the end of the summer 
with no scrubbing during the summer. The readers of Practical Sailor 
report that KL990 Komposition is even better.

506.4GRAMPS::WCLARKWalt ClarkFri Mar 20 1987 11:4942
    I defense of 2 coats (the reply in .2 indicated it is a way to sell
    more paint):
    
    Paints which are not copolymers leech their toxicants into the water 
    due to paint porosity. The contaminants near the surface are
    easiest to leech and will provide very good antisliming as well
    as antifouling (barnicles, etc.) for a couple months. The deeper
    toxicants will leech out more slowly and not provide as much slime
    protection but still provide protection against barnicles.  In many
    cases a single coat is simply too thin to continue to provide the
    toxicants after 3-4 months in the water. This depends on a lot of
    things like temperature the day the paint was applied, amount of
    brushing thinner used, degree of mixing before painting, temperature
    and motion of the water where the boat is moored and how much toxicant
    was in the paint to begin with.
    
    Maybe one coat will do for a season.
    
    When I used Interlux Fiberglass Bottomkote, I found I needed to
    do the same as Alan. I applied 2 coats initially then generally
    sanded off the equivilant of the top coat to expose paint with
    copper (easy to see when sanding cause the paint turns a burnt
    red-gold, at least the black I used did).  Some places required
    little sanding others more to get to this point, but the net need
    was one coat. The additional coat provided toxicants in those areas
    where leeching was fastest or the top coat was more barren to begin
    with.
    
    Finally, as I said, you might want to go to a paint with more toxicant
    (copper oxide).  The Woolsey Blue Streak is pretty high as I recall
    (but not all of the Woolsey products are as high), so are specific
    types from KL990 and Petit.    Another, more expensive alternative
    is a copolymer. Both KL990 (cant remember type) and Interlux (Micron44)
    have high copper contents. Since they was off as used, nearly no
    sanding is required prior to recoating. I recommend you talk to
    paint dealers or read some of the magazine articles before switching
    to this, for all the plusses and minuses. I have used Micron33 for
    the past 2 seasons and am happy but switched to Micron44 this season
    (recoat time) to get the reduced tin/increased copper mix.  

    Walt

506.5I LOVE MARINE-TEXAKOV04::KALINOWSKIFri Mar 20 1987 15:1713
    I LOVE MARINE-TEX EVEN BETTER THAN BONDO. TOO BAD THE COST IS SO
    MUCH HIGHER, ELSE MY BEATER TRUCK WOULD BE BULLETPROOF BY NOW!
    
    THE TRICK TO MARINE TEX IS NOT TO SAND IT AT FIRST, BUILD IT UP
    A BIT HIGHER AND THEN USE A SURFORM OR RASP TO WORK IT DOWN. THEN
    DO A SECOND COAT. ONCE YOU HAVE SURFORMED THIS DOWN A BIT, THEN
    FINISH WITH SANDING. REMEMBER TO ALLOW IT TO CURE A DAY OR SO THE
    SECOND APPLICATION, ELSE IT WILL GOUGE IT OUT A BIT.
    
    JOHN
    
    

506.6A vote for the easy wayBPOV09::TMOOREFri Mar 20 1987 15:5217
    I have been using KL990 "Epoxy-cop" for the last 5 years.  No sanding,
    one coat.  The boat is usually in the water around May 15 and out
    around October 15.  A high presure hose and light scrubing is needed
    in the fall.  No barnacales, just slime.
    
    I might add that I don't race so my bottom may not be as smooth
    as some would like, however I've had to much experience with 
    wooden boats and nice spring days laying on my back trying to 
    poison myselfwith copper bottom paint ("Red Lead").      
    
    
    Enjoy the sailing season,
    
    Tom
    
    

506.7A deal on paintEXPERT::SPENCERFri Mar 20 1987 16:1321
    The Gloucester Marine Paints Store on Rogers Street, Gloucester,
    closed this winter (and is now being converted to a bank.)  Formerly
    they were the factory store for the Gloucester Marine Paints factory
    on Rocky Neck, prior to that company being bought by Rule Industries 
    a couple years ago.  Anyway, their entire stock of Gloucester Marine 
    Paints and KL990 (Rule's other paint brand) was bought by Three 
    Lanterns Ship's Supply, itself newly located on Parker Street at the 
    Head of the Harbor.  With their warehouse bulging, they are aggressively 
    pricing their paint stocks this season to reduce the burden.  If
    paint's in your future, and you like either brand, give them a call 
    for price.  617-281-2080.
    
    Also, they are working very hard to meet the mail-order discount
    houses' prices for marine gear.  40% off list on most items, including
    name stuff -- Henri Lloyd, Ritchie, Danforth, etc.  I'm wheeling
    and dealing there to outfit my new little boat, and beating the hassle 
    and cost-with-shipping of West, E&B and Bliss.
    
    John.
                           

506.8KL990RDF::RDFRick FricchioneSun Mar 22 1987 12:298
    I've used KL990 composition the last two years and both times the
    bottoms came out fine in the fall.  No scraping or scrubbing, just
    a high pressue hose and its done.
    
    I'm going with it again this year.
    
    Rick

506.9RDF / Two CoatsCASADM::THOMASWed Mar 25 1987 14:0812
    re .8
    
    Rick is definitely a two coater. He told me the other day that he's
    going to go with the green for a base coat. For the second coat
    he's going to use blue. Neat thing is that he's had a special patterned
    roller made for the blue. It puts these little whales on the paint
    so the boat bottom will look just like his pants. He's a stickler
    for consistency!!
    
    Ed
    

506.10sigh..RDF::RDFRick FricchioneSat Mar 28 1987 13:352
    I deserved that...