Conference unifix::sailing

This would be a good question for those folks who think that an infernal 
combustion engine is the only way to get a boat from here to there. You 
can find them at VICKI::BOATS. 

I would suspect that your problem is more than just carburation and/or 
ignition. The plug fouling could be due to oil coming past the valve 
stem seals or the piston rings. Has your oil consumption increased 
noticeably? Have you checked the compression? Most Atomic 4 engines are 
past the prime of life by now and yours may well need major attention. 
There is a dealer in Portland, Maine, who could provide advice, parts, 
and even a rebuilt engine. Chase Leavitt is the name that comes to mind.

Universal (now owned by Westerbeke, I gather) makes a little diesel 
that is a direct replacement for the Atomic 4. It might be worth
considering if you need a new/rebuilt engine. 

Do you have the right plugs?  Right temperature?  Right gap?

    My previous boat had an Atomic 4.  I had a similar problem.  Problem
    turned out to be water in the fuel.  First check the catch bowl under
    the fuel pump for water.  I found this would fill with water after
    several hours of running the engine.  
    
    Two steps of my solution was, first to clean out my fuel tank through a
    access plate and to siphon out the very bottom of the tank.  You would
    be supprised what you will find there.  I then installed a large filter
    between the tank and the fuel pump on the engine.  I don't recall the
    brand of filter, but it was about 3" in diameter and a foot long with a
    valve at the bottom to let out the water.  These fixed all my problems
    and the engine ran very strong afterwards.  Like you I had replaced the
    carb, plugs, points etc. but these were minor fixes compared to the
    fuel problem.
    
    Also, if you store your boat for the winter make sure your tank is full
    so there is little air space in the tank where condensation can form.  
    
    My boat was a 1970 Islander and at the time (1985) the engine had never
    been opened up for any major repairs.  The Atomic 4 is a very simple
    but strong running engine.  The current owner has had no problems and
    it is now 20 years old.
    
    Chuck

    I have a 24 year old Pearson 30 Coaster sailboat with an Atomic
    4. I had my engine rebuilt last year as I cooked the engine at the
    beginning of the season when the cooling water intake seacock handle
    closed during operation. The engine is old but now has new life
    and other than for the muffler, I have had no problems.
    
    I will not be going in the water this year as I am going to refurbish
    the exterior and interior this summer. Next fall I will replace
    the muffler and that will mean that mechanically, all will be for
    all practical purposes, new or rebuilt.
    
    I considered replacing the gas engine with the 30 hp Atomic deisel.
    However Chase Levitt wanted $6,500. That included installation charges.
    
    I would love to have a deisel but that is a little out of my reach.
    Like everyone, I am still paying for the boat.
    
    Paul

    Re: 0.3, my engine has a metal catch bowl ( probably the one you
    referred to) between the fuel pump and the tank. Did the filter that
    you installed screw into the position where that catch bowl was?
    	If the problem is indeed water in the tank, would the use of dry
    gas, either isopropyl or methanol, help to control the problem? I seem
    to recall reading somewhere that alcohol could cause gasoline to
    permeate through rubber fuel lines.
    
    -John

    re: .5  The filter I installed had a bracket to mount on a vertical
    surface.  I put it between the tank and the fuel pump.  It had filter
    cartridge for particles and a very large catch bowl for water.
    
    I tried alcohol products which helped but removing the water from the
    tank and the filter to catch any new water solved all my problems.
    
    You should find them in most marine catalogs at a discount.  Mine cost
    $60 - $70 at a marine store.
    
    As I indicated at the time the boat was 15 years old and there was a
    lot of crud etc. in the bottom of the tank.  The pick up pipe for the
    fuel is a inch or so above the bottom so from the slip or in smooth
    water the problem didn't show up.  After a few hours of pounding
    through the waves I would have problems getting back.  This drove me
    crazy for two seasons.  I tried changing every thing.  
    
    Give me a call if you want more details (DTN 534-3315)
    
    Chuck

re alcohol:

Alcohol will destroy the clear plastic bowls used in some filters (eg,
Racor). 

        You really want to get a filter on your fuel system.   The
    mesh screen on the fuel pump bowl is not enough.
    
    Two filters that are fine for an Atomic 4.;
    Fram   FBM1110 PLM     ~ $47.50     Filter elements $5.47
    Racor  110             ~ $51.95       "       "     $7.65
    
    Both are metal bowls and are available from West Marine, Boats
    US, etc.
    
    You should up grade your fuel hose to the new SAEJ1527 A-1 stuff.
    (holds up a bit better under alcohol)
    
    On my atomic 4 I have been using Champion J-8 plugs for years and
    they are fine.  (now called J-8C , for copper tip)
    
    You might want to do a compression check on the engine.  (last
    check on my 1967 atomic 4 was 120 psi per cylinder, warm engine
    throttle open).       I also pump out my tank once a year by
    putting the hose into the lowest part of the tank and pulling
    out the junk.
    
    

    re: .8
    I've already purchased the Racor 110. I'll be installing it in the
    spring. Thanks also for the advice on the fuel hose and draining the
    old fuel from the tank. All of these improvements can't hurt.
    
    John

    
    If you still have problems, "reading" your plugs wil tell you a lot!
    
    1. if there is a cruddy white deposit fopuling the plugs- suspect water
    ir some other4 contaminant in the fuel.
    
    2. if it is a black, wet , oily depoosit- it is oil fouling this could
    be coming from the valve guideds or the rings (tyime for an overhaul)
    
    3. If the deposit is black, fluffy carbon- it is carbon fouling from
    running over-rich and your carb replacement may do the ticket.
    
    $. your problem could be styale gas. Gasoline breaks down with age and
    oxygen. Many sailboats use so little fule, there si tendency to keep
    fuel; in the tanks for a long time. ASdding a stabilizer such as
    Stb-l-Stor will minimize the breakdown. An engine can run on stake gas,
    but will be hard or impossible to start and will idle like a piece of
    junk. Smell your gas-smell like paint thinner or turpentine instead of
    gasoline???- if so, get rid of it and fill up the tank with fresh
    gas- and put in some stabilizer. A pint can is good for about 50 gals.
    
    
     I'll enthusiastically vote for the fuel filter- no marine engine
    should be without one.If you have alum. tanks- they can start to
    oxidize and the oxide is a fine powder that tends to plug up everything
    in sight
    
    If you have water in the gas- it usually comes from condensation. The
    best way to minimize this problem is to keep the tanks full-
    especially over the winter, and during the spring/fall. On a nice warm day, the tanks heat up and
    air escapes. as night falls, the tank cools and the air in the tanks
    shrinks and warm moist air is sucked in. As the tank cools doen even
    more, the moisture in the air condenses and reaches it's dew point 
    and you have water droplets in the fuel.
    
     I used to go through a constant hassle with water in my aluminum fuel
    tanks every spring until  I learned to top them off in the fall and put
    some Stab-l-store in the tanks to prevent the gas from breaking down
    over the winter.
    
    
    
    Dick
    

    Well, the old kicker finally broke down to the point where she needed a
    total rebuild. I discovered, when I removed it from the boat, exactly
    what caused all of the starting and plug fouling problems. The exhaust
    water was backing up into the engine because of a corroded double
    jacketed exhaust system. It's amazing how long an atomic four will
    operate under such conditions (three seasons).
    	I just picked up the engine after the rebuild this weekend.
    It purrrrrrs! The cylinders were apparently fine. The main problem was
    the pitted, salt water corroded, valves. They were corroded only above
    the valve guides where they were exposed to the water. The stems were
    still nice and smooth and shiny. (It's a flat head with the valves
    inside the block and the valve ports at the top.)
    	If anyone needs a recommendation for an EXCELLENT mechanic in the
    New Bedford area, or some pointers on removing an engine from a
    sailboat, feel free to give me a call.
    
    John DTN 237-3434 MEMORY::PARE