Conference turris::cooks

    I had fettucine al pesto at a restaurant awhile back.  It was not
    the standard pesto-oil sauce, but was based on a white sauce.
    

Some of my favorites are odd combinations of sauteed veggies in oil or cream.  
The amount of oil or cream is intended to just moisten the pasta, so adjust 
accordingly, and if it's too dry, heat a bit more oil/cream and add at the 
last minute.

A mix of sliced fresh and reconstituted dry mushrooms, sauteed in oil with a 
minced shallot or crushed garlic.  Then add extra oil.  Or instead of the oil 
based sauce, add cream, simmer thill thickened, and add freshly shredded (done 
by you) IMPORTED parmesan cheese.

Another is a mixture of sliced red (and or yellow) peppers, broccoli 
florettes, and jullienned carrot, sauteed with a bit of oregano.  This works 
best with extra oil.

						     
							- JP

    Low Calorie stroganoff Sauce (from memory from _The New Laurel's
    Kitchen_ cookbook):
    
    1 Cup buttermilk (skim milk buttermilk)
    1 Tbs cornstarch
    1 small onion, chopped
    1 1/2 Cups sliced mushrooms
    1/2 - 1 Tbs olive oil
    1 Tbs Soy Sauce or Tamari
    Fresh ground black pepper
    
    whip buttermilk and cornstarch together and set aside. Saute onion
    in oil. When onion is soft add mushrooms, saute until cooked to
    your liking. Add buttermilk, heat to boiling. The sauce will separate
    but keep stirring and it will thicken and come back together. Add
    soy sauce and black pepper, serve over egg noodles or vegetable
    crepes.

	The FRUGAL GOURMET cookbook (his first one - not 'with wine' or 'cooks
American') has an excellent recipe for Carbonara sauce.  The sauce has olive
oil, egg, bacon and parmasean cheese.  I've done it a couple times and find it
very close to the Carbonara sauce I remember from when I was stationed in
Naples, Italy.

						Al

    Since we're on the subject...  There's a restaurant in Atlanta called
    Mick's that specializes in non-Italian-type pasta dishes.  One of their
    best is angel hair pasta with cheddar cheese and bacon.  The secret is
    the consistency of the cheese; it is not a runny sauce, but it's also
    not so solid that the pasta seems dry.  I've never tried making it
    myself, but wouldn't think it would be all that hard to duplicate.
    
    							Pat
    
    BTW, if anyone is ever in Atlanta, there's a Mick's very near the
    Digital offices.  I highly recommend it for either lunch or dinner.
    If you can hold it, order their chocolate pie for dessert -- I
    guarantee you'll think you've died and gone to heaven!

My favorite is to simply saute garlic and onion in olive oil, add FRESH
shelled peas and diced FRESH tomatos (plum if possible) and cook,
covered until peas are crisp tender (approx. 6 minutes for me).  Toss with 
drained pasta of choice and hit it with some pepper and parmesan cheese
FRESHLY grated.

Quantities are strictly eyeball on this one...I LOVE garlic so I use
2 to 3 cloves, crushed.  One medium onion, 1 or 2 cups of peas, maybe
4 to 7 tomatos (Plum variety - less for regular), approx. 1/4 to 1/3
cup olive oil or maybe a little more...well, you know - play with it!

Here's the Carbonara recipe I mentioned in .4 direct from the THE FRUGAL GOURMET
page 130.

	1/4 lb bacon		1/4 lb butter
	1 cup milk		2 tbl wine vinegar
	1 lb pasta		2 eggs whipped
	1/3 c Parmesan or 	salt and pepper to taste
	      Romano cheese

Cut the bacon into little pieces, and cook in the butter until clear.  Heat the
milk in a small saucepan, and add the bacon and butter.  Add the vinegar [I've
also used 1 tbl of white vinegar instead]; this will turn the milk to cheese. 
Simmer for about 15 min, or until the sauce cooks smooth [keep stirring it, it
will smooth out]. 

Boil your favorite pasta 'al dente'.  Drain, and return to the pan.  Immediately
throw in the eggs, the bacon sauce, and the cheese.  Add salt and pepper, toss
and serve.

Serves 8 to 10 as a first course.  
-------------------------------------------------------------------------------
1:	My experience is that it will serve 4 as the main course.
2:	When the vinegar causes the milk to curdle you're sure you've ruined it,
	but TRUST ME, in 10 minutes or so of stirring it all smooths out again.

    If you don't like anchovies, read no further....
    
    I have fond memories of the following.  On a hot summer evening
    it used to smell up the whole neighbor!
    
    Fish Sauce
    
    Put about 1/2 to 1 cup of olive oil in frying pan.  Brown some sliced
    garlic in it until nicely browned.  Discard garlic and add 1 or
    2 cans of anchovies (depending on how much oil you used).  Stir.
    Remove from heat after discarding garlic.  
    
    It's been awhile since I've made (it's not allowed in my house,
    my husband thinks its disgusting) so you may have to play with the
    amounts to get it how you like it.  If it's too thick, add some
    water from the boiling pasta to thin it out.
    
    Enjoy!
    
    Manina

    Note 279.6 is our recipe for scallops and veggies in cream over
    linguine
    

Pasta Verde
 from "New Recipes from Moosewood Restaurant"

I made this last week, it is yummy. A must for pesto lovers. I 
garnished it with chopped red peppers and romano cheese instead of 
tomatoes and almonds. I did not add the 1/4 cup pasta water to the 
sauce. I also added about a 1/4 cup of freshly grated romano cheese to 
the sauce.

serves 4

3/4 cup chopped onion
1 clove garlic, finely chopped
2 tbl olive oil
3 cups coarsely chopped fresh spinach, about 4 ounces
1 cup ricotta cheese
1/2 cup chopped parsley
 1 tabl chopped fresh basil or 1 tsp dried basil
1 tsp fresh  lemon juice
1/2 tsp salt
1//4 tsp black pepper
1/4 tsp ground nutmeg
1 lb fettucine

freshly grated parmesan cheese  |
chopped fresh tomatoes          |  garnish (optional)
toasted chopped almonds         |


Saute onion and garlic in oil until onion is translucent. Rinse 
chopped spinach in colander, then add it, still damp, to onion 
mixture. Cover pan and cook until spinach is wilted and still very 
bright green. Transfer mixture to blender or food processor. Add 
ricotta cheese, parsley, basil, lemon juice, pepper, salt, and nutmeg. 
Whirl at medium speed until pureed. Leave in blender.

Cook pasta. Drain well, reserving 1/4 cup pasta water. Add pasta water 
to sauce in blender and whirl until well mixed. 

Toss sauce with hot, drained pasta in warm bowl. Serve immediately, 
garnished with cheese and chopped tomatoes or almonds. 

Note: To keep sauce warm or to reheat it, use a double boiler to 
prevent curdling.

    				RAISIN SAUCE RECIPE
    
    Ingredients:
    
    	1 box raisins (either color, or 1/2 white, 1/2 dark).
    	water
    	Corn starch
    
    Directions:
    
    	Place raisins in sauce pan and cover with water. At med-high heat,
    	bring raisins to a boil. Reduce heat to med/med-low and let simmer
    	for about 20-25 minutes (raisins should be very plump).
    
    	Prepare corn starch and water mixture in cup/small bowl. Add
    	mixture (a tablespoon at a time) to the raisins/water. Stir
    	continually until mixture is the desired thickness (should be as 
    	thick as cold maple syrup).
    
    	Remove from heat and let stand. Serve warm over the ham.
    
    Variation: 
    
    Add a small can of chopped pineapple to raisins as they
    cook... Serve raisin/pineapple sauce with the ham.!    
    
    Enjoy..!!
    
    Bob G.
    

    	Bechemel Sauce
    
    	4T butter (1/2 stick)
    	2C milk
    	3T general purpose flour
    	1T salt
    	2t pepper
    
    This is the basic white sauce, and is simply amazing.
    
    In a thick bottomed skillet or saucepan, melt butter, then add flour.
    Mix well, heat to gentle simmer for two minutes. DO NOT BROWN.
    While the butter is melting, in a separate saucepan, heat milk until
    just short of a boil.  When flour and butter is cooked (called a
    'roux') add 2T of hot milk and mix well until milk is incorporated.
    Repeat until all milk is incorporated; add salt and pepper, and serve
    over any pasta (especially penne, tortellini, or other sturdy pastas).
    
    You can diverge from the basic formula by adding diced bacon, minced
    garlic, oregano and basil, nutmeg, or whatever you prefer to the roux.
    Produces sauce sufficient for about 1 1/2 lbs. cooked pasta.  Try
    adding pancetta, which is the same cut of pork that bacon is made
    from, but not cured.  Dice and sautee separately until translucent,
    then add to roux, proceed as directed.

RE .14 - Wow, that seems like a lot of salt (and pepper)...!

I use a white sauce recipe Handed Down from my mom.  Just remember 2, 2, and 1:

	2 Tbsp butter
	2 Tbsp flour
	1 cup milk

Melt butter, add flour and mix into a paste.  Add milk, and heat slowly until it
thickens.  It thickens more quickly if the milk is warm when you add it
(I warm it up in the microwave).  Season to taste.  Can be doubled (or halved)
easily.

Makes a good base for macaroni and cheese - just add shredded or cubed cheese
to taste (I confess: Mom used Velveeta, and I still get cravings for it; also
works with cheddar, though).

							-- Nina

    No, 1T salt and 2t pepper is about right - remember that the yield
    is almost two cups of sauce, and will be added to 5 cups of pasta,
    all of which is bland.  Note: lower case 't' is TEAspoon. If it's
    going to have any flavor at all, you'll need the salt and pepper.
    If you're using other spices (garlic, basil) or other sources of
    flavor (pancetta, bacon) you can back off a bit.
    
    					- M
    

    What's in Bernaise (sp?) sauce?
    
    Is this the one typically served with Filet Mignon?
    
    D!

	Rep .17  D!

>>>What's in Bernaise (sp?) sauce?


	It's an egg yolk based sauce made with a vinegar, tarragon,
	and shallot reduction. I'm sure there's a recipe for it some
	where in this conference. Classicly it also has obscene amounts
	of butter in it but a well made one is YUMMY!!! ;-)


>>>Is this the one typically served with Filet Mignon?

	Yes.

	-mike

Bernaise sauce is also very good on broiled/grilled swordfish.

Kirsten

re: .17

>    What's in Bernaise (sp?) sauce?
    
Bearnaise sauce essentially is a reduction of tarragon, shallots, and
(a couple of things I can't remember at the moment) in white wine
(cook it down 'till the liquid's almost all gone) and then add the
reduction to hollandaise sauce.

And now I suppose you'll want to know what hollandaise sauce is? :-)

-Hal

	Rep .20 Hal

 	Hollandaise and Bearnaise are really two different sauces both
	based on egg yolks. Hollandaise is classicly a lemon juice based
	sauce and Bearnaise is classicly a white wine vinegar, tarragon,
	and shallot based sauce. While you could follow the your suggestion
	in .20 I wouldn't consider it the classic Bearnaise sauce.

	-mike 
	

    I know what Hollandaise sauce is - it's that one that makes my
    cholesterol go up just reading about it! ;-)
    
    A recipe for Bernaise would be appreciated, and tips on reducing fat (i
    don't really care about chol. at all) would be even more so.
    
    D!

re: .21

>             -< I'm just in a nit-picking mood today I guess ;-) >-

That's OK, I don't mind picking a nit or two myself! :-)

> 	Hollandaise and Bearnaise are really two different sauces both
>	based on egg yolks. Hollandaise is classicly a lemon juice based
>	sauce and Bearnaise is classicly a white wine vinegar, tarragon,
>	and shallot based sauce. While you could follow the your suggestion
>	in .20 I wouldn't consider it the classic Bearnaise sauce.

I'll argue with you on this one.  They're both emulsions made with egg
yolk and oil (butter).  The only difference is the added flavorings.
More than one professional agrees with me here, but I'll quote from
Jacques Pepin (A French Chef Cooks At Home, page 42):

	Hollandaise Variations

(introductory paragraph ommitted)

Sauce Bearnaise

In a small saucepan, combine 2 tablespoons of dry white wine, 
2 tablespoons of tarragon vinegar, 1/3 cup peeled, chopped shallots,
and 1 tablespoon finely chopped parsley.  Place over medium heat until
all but about a tablespoon of the liquid has evaporated.  Stir into
the hollandaise along with 1 tablespoon of finely chopped fresh
tarragon.


re: .22

Believe me, you'll get just as much fat and cholestorol in bearnaise
as you do in hollandaise! :-)  Personally, I think it's worth the
occasional splurge.

-Hal

	Rep .22  D!

>>>   A recipe for Bernaise would be appreciated, and tips on reducing fat (i
    don't really care about chol. at all) would be even more so.


	1C  white wine vinegar or tarrgon vinegar
	4 shallots finely minced
	1 large sprig of fresh tarrgon if using the w.w. vinegar
	3 large egg yolks
	1 stick unsalted butter 


	Reduce the vinegar, shallots, and tarrgon <if used> until you
	have 2Tbsps left in the pan. Whisk the egg yolks with 1 Tbsp
	of butter until the mixture is a lemony yellow color. Add the
	cooled vinegar reduction and whisk the mixture again until
	creamy. Now the tricky part, whisk the the mixture over
	a double boiler or over low direct heat. <For beginners I 
	would suggest the double boiler.> Heat the sauce until it 
	just thickens but don't bring it to the boil or you'll end
	up with scambled eggs or a curddled mess. If the sauce curddles
	you can sometime recover by adding small pieces of ice and 
	whisking like crazy. Remove the sauce from the heat and whisk 
	in the butter one Tbsp at a time making sure that the butter
	is completely incorporated before you add more. Some people
	strain the vinegar mixture to remove the shallots and tarragon
	but I usually don't since I like a chunky sauce. 

	This sauce is will hardened your arteries just looking at it
	so the only way to reduce the fat is by reducing the butter 
	you add after it is cooked. I suppose you could add a splash
	of a dry white wine to thin it out instead of the butter but
	again add it slowly.


	-mike  

If you have a blender, it's even easier.  Do the reduction in .22,
then put the reduced liquid and the egg yolks in the blender.  Melt
the butter.  Turn on the blender, and dribble the melted butter into
it.  When all of the butter is dribbled in, you're done.

This is pretty fool-proof compared to the stove-top method, and the
results are better than some bearnaise sauces I've had in restaraunts.

-Hal

re:            <<< Note 1019.25 by TAMRC::LAURENT "Hal Laurent @ COP" >>>

> If you have a blender, it's even easier.  Do the reduction in .22,

Oops, I meant the reduction in .24

-Hal

    As an interesting variation, I've used a light red wine instead of white
    when making a bearnaise to be served with beef.
    
    <clb>

	Rep .23 Hal

                               -< Nit rebuttal >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
re: .21

>             -< I'm just in a nit-picking mood today I guess ;-) >-

That's OK, I don't mind picking a nit or two myself! :-)

> 	Hollandaise and Bearnaise are really two different sauces both
>	based on egg yolks. Hollandaise is classicly a lemon juice based
>	sauce and Bearnaise is classicly a white wine vinegar, tarragon,
>	and shallot based sauce. While you could follow the your suggestion
>	in .20 I wouldn't consider it the classic Bearnaise sauce.


>>>
I'll argue with you on this one.  They're both emulsions made with egg
yolk and oil (butter).  The only difference is the added flavorings.
>>>

	On this we both agree.

>>>
More than one professional agrees with me here, but I'll quote from
Jacques Pepin (A French Chef Cooks At Home, page 42):
>>>

	Ok, I'll see your Jacques Pepin and raise you Julia Child/
	Louisette Bertholle/Simone Beck, Michel & Albert Roux,
	Craig Claiborne, and Marie-Claude Bisson. ;-)

Mastering the Art of French Cooking Vol 1 1983 edition J.C./L.B./S.B.

Sauce Bearnaise

For: steaks, boiled or fried fish, broiled chicken, egg dishes, timabales.
     Bearnaise sauce differs from Hollandaise only in taste and strengh;
     instead of lemon juice, its basic flavoring is a reduction of wine,
     vinegar, shallots, pepper, and tarragon. The technicques for making
     the two sauces are similar.

Bearnaise  pg 84-85			hollandaise  pg 79-80

1/4 C wine vinegar			6-8 oz butter melted
1/4 C dry white wine			3 egg yolks
1TBsp minced shallots 			1TBsp cold water
1TBsp minced fresh tarragon		1TBsp lemon juice
or 1/2TBsp dried tarragon		2TBsp cold butter
1/8tsp pepper
3 eggs yolks
2TB cold butter
1/2 to 2/3 C melted butter
2TBsp fresh minced parsley 
or tarragon

Since all of the recipes call for the same/similar preparation methods
I have not bothered to type them in. They are all basically what I 
entered in reply .24. But no where do they say make a Holladaise sauce 
first and then add the reduced flavorings.

New Classic Cuisine  M.&A. R

Bearnaise   pg 55			Hollandaise  pg 57

2 medium shallots 			3 egg yolks
6TBsp fresh tarragon			1/2lb plus 2TBsp butter
4TBsp wine vinegar <preferably red>	1 1/4tsp peppercorns crushed
1 1/4tsp peppercorns crushed            1 1/4TBsp vinegar <reduced to 1/2TBsp>
4 egg yolks				juice of 1/2 lemon
1/2lb plus 2TBsp butter			salt
4TBsp chervil minced
salt

New York Times Cookbook C.C.

Bearnaise  pg 446			Hollandaise  pg 449

1tsp chopped shallots			3 egg yolks
1 small sprig tarragon			1TB cold water
1 small sprig chervil			1/2C soft butter
2 peppercorns				1/4tsp salt
salt					1/2tsp lemon juice or to taste
5 egg yolks
3/4c butter melted
pinch cayenne pepper
1 tsp mixed minced tarragon&chervil

La Cuisine Francaise Guide Vert  M-C. B.

Bearnaise   pg 108			Hollandaise   pg 110

1 verre de bon vinaigre de vin		2 jaunes d'oeufs
1 branche d'estragon			150g de beurre
2 echalotes finement hachees		1 cuilleree a cafe d'eau froide
3 jaune d'oeufs				1/2 cuilleree a cafe sel
150g de beurre
sel

BTW, I have at least three other sources that match the previous recipes.
I also found that Jack Smith in his first book suggests the same thing
as Pepin. I still submit that while some of the ingredients are the same
and the preparation techniques are similar classicly they are two
different sauces. I think I have crawled far enough down this rathole <humm> 
I mean nit-hunt. <but the devil made me do it!!! ;-)  >


	-mike 


	

    so, ah, Mike, 
    which do we used? 8-) 8-).
    
    Monica

 Whichever strikes your fancy. :-)

	Rep .29  Monica
 

>>>    so, ah, Mike, 
    which do we used? 8-) 8-).


	I like mine in .24 <me, conceited!!! ;-)  > Maybe we need to
	hold a blind tasting of them all including Pepin's and Smith's
	just to decide. But only after next week when I have my annual
	physical. I don't wait to spike the blood work off the scale
	again.

	-mike

>>	I like mine in .24 <me, conceited!!! ;-)  > Maybe we need to
>>	hold a blind tasting of them all including Pepin's and Smith's
>>	just to decide.

	Count me in!  I'll bring the filets mignons, and how 'bout
	a Chateau Palmer or something like that?  :>

	Di

	Rep .32 Diane

>>>	Count me in!  I'll bring the filets mignons, and how 'bout
	a Chateau Palmer or something like that?  :>


	Mark Levesque and I were thinking about bambi steaks!!! 
	I was thinking more of a St. Estephe with the bambi. I
	have some '83 Marbuzet or '82 Calon-Segur that might 
	fit the bill.


	-mike

	ps: I suppose we could probably choke down some beef if 
	    we really had to.  :-)

re -1  BAMBI steaks?? :( 

>	Mark Levesque and I were thinking about bambi steaks!!! 

 I think that's contingent upon me coming across a live bambi in the woods,
or you running one over in the Taurus. :-)

	>> '82 Calon-Segur that might 
	fit the bill.

	Yum.  Name the day.  *^)