[Search for users] [Overall Top Noters] [List of all Conferences] [Download this site]

Conference 7.286::pet_birds

Title:Captive Breeding for Conservation--and FUN!
Notice:INTROS 6.X / FOR SALE 13.X / Buying a Bird 900.*
Moderator:VIDEO::PULSIFER
Created:Mon Oct 10 1988
Last Modified:Tue Jun 03 1997
Last Successful Update:Fri Jun 06 1997
Number of topics:942
Total number of notes:6016

410.0. "Home-Built Caging, anyone?" by MEIS::TILLSON (Sugar Magnolia) Wed Sep 05 1990 21:00

    
    Moved to a new basenote per moderator suggestion - I'm interested in
    all sorts of other home-built cages as well.  I'm looking for caging
    that is easy, time-saving and cost-effective for breeding purposes. 
    For me personally, aesthetics are secondary (My pet birds in the main
    part of my house have purchased cages) but I'd also love to hear from
    those of you who have created beautiful environments for your pet
    birds.
    
    						/Rita
    
    
               <<< CLOSET::W7_:[NOTES$LIBRARY]PET_BIRDS.NOTE;1 >>>
                -< Captive Breeding for Conservation--and FUN! >-
================================================================================
Note 397.6                        Mixed Aviary?                           6 of 7
MEIS::TILLSON "Sugar Magnolia"                       31 lines   5-SEP-1990 16:18
                        -< Too bad - here's some ideas >-
--------------------------------------------------------------------------------
    
    Nice try, Linda :-)  I guess when you finally get Plumhead hens the
    guys will ready, huh?  You really thought they were going to let you
    get away with decreasing your cleaning workload?? (snicker ;-)
    
    I've been looking into ways of doing that, as well.  Big advantage to
    colony breeding of finches - one cage to clean, two big troughs for
    food and water instead of 12 smaller ones.  Disadvantage is that the
    *birds* pick their mates, and they may not pick who you want.  Since
    I'm trying to get a particular mutation, that isn't really satisfactory
    for me.  I'm thinking of designing cages that are long and narrow, and
    putting dividers into them, sort of like a canary double breeder cage
    but more so.  (Bird Condos?)  I'll use commonly available wire mesh,
    probably 1"x1/2", and J-clips.  This would sit inside a *single*
    aluminum bottom, meaning just one cage paper to change.  I'm also
    thinking about making slide-in food and water trays (with dividers like
    an ice cube tray has (at the cage divider boundries) so that the little
    guys don't "jump the fence" through the food dishes and trespass on
    their neighbors!) so that I can just feed and water in one pass.
    
    I think that to be practical I could only get 4-5 "condos" per unit -
    otherwise the thing would be *too* skinny and it would get ugly trying
    to lift it off the base.  But I could make them stackable or put them
    on stock shelving and make effective use of my space that way.  4
    across stacked 4 high would give me space 16 breeding pairs with
    maintenance for only 4 cages, which is probably plenty :-)
    
    I am *not* addicted to birds; I can quit ANYTIME I WANT TO :-)
    
                                           /Rita
    
T.RTitleUserPersonal
Name
DateLines
410.1Pros and Cons of Using Galvanized Wire CLOSET::COMPTONLinda DTN381-0687 ZKO1-2/C21Thu Sep 06 1990 17:18115
    Thanks for starting the note, Rita!  Here's more than my 2 cents on
    using galvanized wire for home built cages.....I hope others will
    contribute their pros and cons and experiences so we can all learn
    more about this way of providing decent economical space for our birds.  
    
    We have built a few cages from 1" x 1/2" galvanized-after ("permagard")
    wire, which we got from a local feed store.  After investing too much
    money in Hoie cages, we tried the home-built way. An advantage is that
    you can build a very large cage for a very small price.   
    
    You can get the wire in 1/2" x 1/2" up to 2" x 2" and variations in
    between, like the popular 1" x 1/2", which is suitable for anything
    from small finches to large parrots.  If you are building a utility
    cage that may get recycled and house different types of birds over
    time, this may be the size for you.  Wire rolls come in 2 foot and 3
    foot lengths, standard.  Louis Page Wire Company in Littleton, MA has
    the best prices I have found so far, but only if you buy it by the 100
    foot roll.  Local hardware or feed stores may be a better idea if you
    just need a few feet -- enough for one or two cages.   
    
    If you are planning on building hanging flights, you will need some
    lumber to provide stability; size and placement of the lumber varies 
    with the size of the cage.  If you are planning on having the cages sit
    on a table or other surface, a slide-out galvanized tray for the bottom
    is a good idea, but costs as much as the wire and J-clips,
    though...about $18 for a 2' x 2' x 2 5/8", suitable for a slide-out
    tray....the 2' x 3' is more $$ and is better for an enclosed cage...a
    little heavy to work with for a slide out tray, but if you're strong,
    guess it wouldn't matter.  
    
    Some folks build wire cages with no bottom screen between the top of
    the galvanized tray, others put the screen in.  To add confusion, you
    can build the cages with no screen *under* the galvanized tray either,
    or you can put a screen in.  Depends on the type of birds to be housed,
    how fussy you are about cleaning, how much you want to cut and clip
    sheets of wire mesh, whether you will be moving the cage a lot or not,
    etc.  And of course there are those who do not use a galvanized tray at
    all, but set the cage down on newspaper or a sheet of plywood or some
    scrap linoleum and do just fine!  This assumes the cage can be picked
    up to change and clean the flooring area and that the birds won't
    escape while you are doing this.  I've seen this work for others with
    medium to large size parrots, but personally  wouldn't risk it with
    budgies or other small, more active birds.
    
    There is a special tool for clipping the J-clips that hold together the
    pieces of cut wire mesh (also called hardware cloth), and another for
    unclipping, which a tool place may be able to get for you, or they have
    at least the clipper tool at Wingsong Aviary in Merrimack, NH....for
    about $27!  We just used a variety of small hand tools that seemed to
    adapt to this use.  The elegant way would be to buy the clipper
    tool.....Just like the elegant way would be to buy the electric wire-
    snipper, rather than using tin-snips or small wire-cutters.

    
    One troublesome thing I have found with the big wire cages is getting
    snagged on the wire edges and J-clips when moving or cleaning the 
    cages. I have learned the hard way to be extra careful, use work
    gloves if I'm doing a lot of handling, and wear only clothing that
    I don't care if it gets torn up.  Some people use two-sided plastic
    strips on the door edges, but this will usually only work if the birds
    are not chewers, which mine are.  They are also one more thing to 
    dismantle and clean!  Even using a dremel tool to wear down the edges
    of the wire where it has been clipped doesn't eliminate all the little
    snags.  
    
    You can bend the sides of the cage wire to make the corners, rather
    than cutting each piece, but is just a different kind of work, not
    less work.  One advantage is that every corner you bend instead of
    cut and clip won't have the clips to get snagged on.
    
    An advantage to the wire cages is that you can cut and recut 
    doors of any size you need, patch them back in, start over with a
    different size door, and cut pieces out for entrances to nest boxes
    and then patch over the hole when the cage isn't being used as a
    breeding cage.  Starts to look weird, but the birds don't seem 
    to mind!  So save those scraps of wire mesh...they may come in
    handy sooner than you think!
    
    Having a long-handled scrub brush is essential to getting the inside of
    the cage clean, unless you are willing to dismantle one or two sides of
    the J-clips so the cage is opened up...not something  most people will
    do just to clean the cage.  Reaching in and around to get the inside
    clean is a chore, but worth the effort.  Leaving the cages to dry in
    the sun is a good idea, unless you have a lot of scrap towels you don't
    mind getting ripped up trying to dry the cage off!!
    
    If you want a wire cage but don't want to build it yourself, there
    are places around that will build it for you, for a price.  Still 
    less than the pretty cages designed for your living space, but a lot
    more than if you do it yourself.  Local feed stores that carry the
    wire, some pet stores, some commercial aviaries, some private parties
    will build cages on order.  I talked over the phone with someone in
    Dunstable who will build animal cages on custom order and his prices
    seemed very reasonable, but I haven't taken the time to go look at his
    stuff yet.  He advised a visit and on-site discussion to make sure he
    would be able to do what you want.  He builds stacked breeding cages,
    flights, and single cages (his main business is rabbit and other small
    animal cages, so he says an occasional order for bird cages is fun!). 
    His name is Eric Thurkin, but I don't have the number handy just
    now....phone company probably does though!
    
    A caution on the galvanized after...there is a controversy about 
    whether the zinc plating will harm the birds, especially the birds
    that are likely to walk around a lot on the wire or chew it.  I
    have heard testimonials on both sides...successful breeders who have
    used the galvanized-after wire for years with all kinds of birds 
    with no problems, and other breeders who swear they lost birds to
    zinc poisoning.  An alternative is to get the galvanized-before wire,
    which will start to rust after a few cleanings with a disinfectant
    or if left outdoors.  So then you have the birds eating the rust...
    
    Those of you who made it this far.....how about you? Any experiences
    with this kind of housing for your birds?  Pls. write in!
    
    Linda
410.2fellow nerds will love *this* design!MEIS::TILLSONSugar MagnoliaFri Sep 21 1990 19:1039
    
    Here's what I did for the breeding cage I am going to use for my
    Senegals.
    
    I acquired an old DEC-10 cab, the kind that is basically a 6' tall, 2'
    wide, 2'deep steel frame.  There are holes (for rack mounting) drilled
    about 1/2" apart on all edges.  There is a hinged door on the front,
    also just a frame.  The previous owner had attached a fluorescent licht
    fixture to the top of the cab.
    
    I used 1"x2" 14 gauge wire mesh, cut into 4'sections.  I wired this
    into the cab with 16-gauge aluminum wire.  A top grate was also wired
    on, and a bottom grate was set on a larger aluminum wire "grid" that I
    wove across the bottom.  This left a 1' space on the top so that I
    could change the light bulb (I will be using a Vitalight on a timer)
    and a 1' space above the floor of the cab, onto which I put an aluminum
    roasting pan, to be lined with newspaper.
    
    The back section of wire mesh has a hole cut for access to an outside
    nest box.  There is a wood platform on the inside *above* the nestbox
    entrance, attached with bolts and wing nuts (on the outside), to shade
    the entrance to the nest box for privacy.  Since lighting is supplied
    from the top of the cage, I also then put the original side panels back
    on the cab (over the wire mesh) for even more privacy.  I've heard that
    the easiest way to get these guys to breed is to give them absolute
    privacy and security.
    
    With this in mind, I also put screen into the door frame.  Now the
    front of the cage is double-screened.  I cut a large hole into the
    inner front screening, which will allow the food/water dishes to be
    attached to the door screen, and go through the inner screen opening
    when the door is closed. The food and water can now be changed without
    my hands ever entering the cage.
    
    Not a bad use for an old computer cab...next month we'll see how the
    birds like it!
    
    						/Rita
    
410.3inventor of the month !BPOV04::PULSIFERDoug Pulsifer DTN 296-3332, BP01Mon Sep 24 1990 12:038
    Rita,
    
    You may want to consider what the coating on the cab is. If it is
    black, the anodized(brass look) or any other, it could be harmful if
    your birds chew at it.  other than that it sounds good. You got a
    patent on i?  ;-)
    
    Doug 
410.4Rev 2 ?EICMFG::BURKEJim Burke, @UFCWed Sep 26 1990 10:426
    re .-2
    
    	Have you left the cooling fans in for the hot weather ?
    
    Jim