| THE BIRD NETWORK
GREETINGS! First off, we want to thank Shirley T. for her generous
contribution towards defraying our mailing costs. Shirley, it is greatly
appreciated. Some items not included in this issue, that we would like to
have in future issues, are bird jokes and short stories about bird
experiences. For these we would like our readers to participate and submit
their own items. Of course, they will need to be approved and/or edited by us
to fit into our format, but will be printed in their entirety when possible.
Any of your friends that you may think might be interested in receiving THE
BIRD NETWORK, please give them our address and we will gladly add them to our
mailing list upon request.
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ASK DOCTOR RHODA
-Are the 8 in 1 Bird Protectors effective?
They probably are effective, but the type of mites they are made to
fight are extremely rare on psittacines. Unless your birds are housed
in close proximity to chickens you should not have to worry. Good
hygiene practices are your best insurance against mites. Mites do not
tend to stay on the birds but will stay on the cage. Regular cleaning
of the cage, with an occasional complete washdown, should prevent any
potential mite infestations.
This column is for reader use. Please only submit questions that do not
require immediate response. At the end of the newsletter you will find a list
of avian (bird) veterinarians for your more immediate problems.
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FEEDING YOUR BIRDS
Everywhere I go I tend to talk birds with anyone who will listen. But then, I
believe that is part of the bird addiction. The number one problem I have
discovered is that many of the pet bird owners really have no idea what they
should be feeding their bird(s). They know the basic seed and water routine,
but that is not nearly sufficient for a bird to live a long, healthy life.
After all, could you live on nothing but breakfast cereal, water and an
occasional piece of lettuce? Well, neither can your bird.
Besides attempting to give your bird a nutritionally balanced diet you must
remember that food is also a form of entertainment for them. Birds get bored
with the same thing day-in and day-out. Variety in their diet accomplishes
two things. It gives them a better chance of getting everything they need
nutrient-wise and you have a better chance of getting them to eat when they
are not feeling well and need the energy the most. I read somewhere once that
when your bird is ill and the only thing you can get into its beak is
chocolate chips, then give them chocolate chips. So, the more variety your
bird is used to the better chance you will find something you can get into its
beak when it needs it most.
To give you some feeding ideas, I have listed the foods I have offered my
birds.
Seeds:Larger (greys, amazons & up) Parrot Mix
Smaller (conures & down) Parrot Mix (with peanuts removed) and
parakeet seed mixed with condition mix
Dry Cereals: Corn Flakes, Product 19, Bite Size Shredded Wheat, Super
Golden Crisp, Cheerios
Fresh Foods: Endive, Alfalfa Sprouts, Sprouted Parakeet seed, Water Cress,
Broccoli, Bean Sprouts, Spinach, Kale, Collards, Turnip greens, Corn
on the cob, grape, Baked sweet potato, Apple, Orange, Grated carrot -
all these cut to a size that the bird would not consider threatening,
but bigger than bite size.
Misc: Spray Millet (smaller birds), Whole wheat bread, Corn bread, Date nut
bread, Saltines, Graham Crackers, Rye Krisp (unseasoned), peanuts,
pecans (bigger birds), egg (do not leave in cage more than an hour if
your bird doesn't eat it right away)
To ensure your bird gets a complete diet you need to consider the following
its minimum requirements:
ALWAYS Available - Smaller birds - cuttle bone and/or mineral block
Bigger birds - mineral block
Daily - fresh water in a clean water dish
fresh seed mix
3 or 4 fresh fruits/vegetables pieces with vitamins lightly
sprinkled on top
a dry cereal or bread
Occasional treats - some of the miscellaneous items.
Remember, this is just a guideline to the minimums. This in no way means that
you should not try other items. Ideally, your bird should be eating more
"people" foods than seeds. Birds do not always recognize new items as a food
item first off. If there is something that you want to have your bird eat,
offer it to the bird often. Introduction of a new food item may only take a
couple of attempts or it may take months. Eventually your bird will decide
you are not trying to poison it and try the new food, unless it just plain
does not like the item. Some birds love banana, others hate it. Avocados
have been known to be poisonous to some birds. Be careful with some of the
more exotic foods. Celery and lettuce supply lots of bulk and water but
little food value. The greens you select should be dark leafy ones. The
darker they are the more food value they have. Treats of any kind will not
hurt. Think of your bird like a child. If you wouldn't feed it to a child,
don't feed it to your bird.
A seasonal note, during the warmer days the soft foods you serve your birds
will spoil more rapidly and will need to be removed from the cage dish after
just a short while. Sour or moldy food can cause illness.
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AFA Update on CITES Convention
By Thomas C. Marshall, President,
American Federation of Aviculture
AFA's obligation, I believe, is to alert bird lovers to the most
threatening challenges to the future of aviculture.
A proposal is currently under consideration by the Convention on
International Trade in Endangered Species (CITES) to move a number of bird
species, including all psittacines (parrots), to Appendix I by 1989. An
integral part of the CITES treaty, Appendix I, contains the names of species
and subspecies deemed endangered by the signatories to the treaty. Permits
for import and export of endangered species are not issued for commercial
purposes, and trade is authorized only in exceptional circumstances.
The AFA supports the original purpose for CITES. We are a conservation-
minded organization. We subscribe to the World Conservation Strategy, a
document produced by the United Nations, IUCN and several other international
organizations, because it sets out the main principles for conservation: the
maintenance of essential ecological processes and the preservation of genetic
diversity to ensure the sustainable use of species and ecosystems.
Conservation is, in short, the wise use of renewable resources by humans; it
is not the nonuse of our resources.
Unfortunately, much of the interest at a CITES meeting is generated not by
endangered species but by politics and the differing philosophies espoused by
three identifiable groups: conservationists, who support the wise use of
resources and who look at scientific evidence prior to advocating the listing
or delisting of species to the various appendices of the CITES treaty;
preservationists, who favor the nonuse of resources; and animal rights
advocates, who believe that all use of animals is immoral.
Overzealous Groups
These latter two groups are the real danger to aviculture, and their
influence is growing. They appear to disregard scientific considerations or
protection of birds from avoidable extinction if to do so involves holding
birds in captivity. The anthropomorphically negative perception of captivity
is what motivates these groups. "Better dead than bred in captivity" could be
their credo, especially for the animal rights adherents.
In 1982, all parrot species not already on Appendix I were placed on
Appendix II (except cockatiels and budgerigars), which was intended to
indicate that these species may become threatened. At that time, the United
States and Switzerland maintained that placing all parrots on Appendix II
"affects the credibility and integrity of CITES, because it is obvious that
not all parrot species are threatened, and furthermore, the wholesale listing
of an entire order distorts the purpose and meaning of the CITES treaty."
Nevertheless, the majority of member nations agreed that all parrot species not
endangered should be listed as threatened and placed on Appendix II.
The current proposal in question is the next inexorable step: Move all
parrots from Appendix II to Appendix I, thereby classifying all parrots as
endangered and thus, for all intents and purposes, terminating trade in all
parrot species.
As responsible aviculturists, we cannot and will not sit idly by and allow
this type of shortsighted thinking to materialize into international law. We
will be at the CITES meeting in Indonesia representing our members. Your
financial support is vital and will bear directly on our effectiveness. We
must be prepared, and we need adequate funding to the the job! As Edward
Burke said, "All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is for good people
to do nothing." I urge you to send your tax-deductible donations today to the
American Federation of Aviculture, CITES Project, P.O. Box 1568, Redondo
Beach, CA 90278.
Editor's Note: Is is not and will not be our practice to solicit money from
our readers, but I felt that this message was important enough to pass on to
any and all bird lovers who will listen. I personally have forwarded my $10.
Any amount will help. To keep abreast of this and other items affecting bird
keeping, join the A.F.A. They can use your support and in return they keep
you informed through a beautiful, bi-monthly magazine. Membership is $20
per year, sent to A.F.A. Membership Services, P.O.Box 1568, Redondo Beach, CA
90278. Allow 90 days for first issue to arrive after requesting membership.
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READERS QUESTIONS
-Is there a local club?
There are currently no bird clubs in the immediate St. Augustine area
but there are clubs in Jacksonville, Ocala and Orlando. The addresses
for two of them are: JACKSONVILLE AVICULTURAL SOCIETY, 5131 Colonial
Ave., Jacksonville, FL 32110 and SUNSHINE STATE CAGE BIRD SOCIETY,
c/o Patti Schwindt, P. O. Box 8493A, Orlando, FL 32856. We do not
have the address for the Ocala club, but if we get it in the future,
we will pass it on. Anyone out there able to help us out here?
-Indoor aviary ventilation?
There are a lot of "ifs" and questions in this topic. Are there
screened windows or exterior doors (with screen doors, of course) to
your bird room? If so, then during most of the Florida year all that
would be necessary is to open them and let the fresh air flow
through. But if you are talking no windows or doors or winter time,
you will probably need some type of an air filtration system. There
are many good air filters on the market. What you buy will depend
upon the size of the room, the number of birds in the room and how
much you want to spend. Some models have ionizers that are supposed
to electrically charge the dirt and dust particles in the air causing
them to become heavier and fall. From my own personal experience, you
will find that they will require frequent cleaning. For instance the
model I own recommends filter replacement and cleaning every 3 months.
I found that, in my bird room, I needed to do maintenance monthly.
The August issue of BIRD TALK has an excellent article on air
purifiers to further help you in your decision making.
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EMERGENCIES: Should your bird have an accident there are a few things you can
do ahead to be prepared. Have a small cage on hand, a heating pad, a room
thermometer, a Pair of needle nose pliers, Kwik-stop or Stay, flour or corn
starch, a hand towel, a towel large enough to cover the small cage on all
sides with the front open and the name of a good avian veterinarian. I have
listed four for you below.
Whether or not you can help your bird after an accident, or if it takes ill,
depends upon the problem. It is always best to contact your vet if you have a
doubt as to the health of your bird. Birds' first line of defense in the wild
is to remain healthy looking as long as possible, so be conscious of its
normal, healthy appearance. If you notice it sleeping more than normal (12-16
hours a day, including naps, is normal), if it is sitting with its feathers
all fluffed up all the time, if its droppings change consistency, color or
frequency, if its eating habits change or play habits change suddenly. Are
its eyes dull or watery, nose runny, vent area (under its tail) wet or messed
on? These are tell-tale signs of a bird that does not feel well. Act quickly
when your bird starts to look ill. Once it starts to show symptoms, it is a
real sick baby. That is why I suggest being conscious of its best health look
so you can spot any signs early while a vet has the best chances of being able
to help you. Do not procrastinate, it could mean your bird's life.
If your bird has broken a feather, nail or its beak and it is bleeding, you
will need to act quickly BEFORE you call your vet. It would be best if you
had the help of a second person. One of you gently but firmly (remembering to
let the bird's chest be able to expand) hold the bird wrapped in the hand
towel with the injured area exposed. If it is a feather, spread the injured
wing with one hand and locate the broken feather. Firmly grasp the base of
the broken feather and pull it out. BE SURE that you got all of the feather
shaft. DO NOT leave an open pipeline to its blood supply. Apply pressure to
the area until bleeding stops. If it is a nail, apply Kwik stop, flour or
cornstarch to the broken, bleeding nail and apply pressure until bleeding
stops. If it is a beak, do NOT use Kwik stop. Use flour or cornstarch and
apply pressure until bleeding stops. Keep the bird quiet (in its small cage)
and warm (85-90 degrees) and watch to be sure the bleeding has stopped. If
not repeat the first aid and call your vet. Your vet is always your most
valuable line of defense.
These are avian veterinarians that we personally have had good experience
with. Using an avian vet for the routine care of your bird will give your
bird its best chance at a long, healthy life or a successful, rapid recovery
should something ever go wrong. Vets are like people doctors, if you don't
like their personality, or if they don't instill confidence, change doctors.
AVIAN VETERINARIANS SERVICES:
Rhoda Stevenson, DVM 724-6644 Donald Cook, DVM 743-4567
Parkway Animal Hospital Arlington Animal Hospital & Bird Clinic
8560 Arlington Expressway 1126 Cesery Blvd.
Jacksonville Jacksonville
Dawn Lazar, DVM 737-0403 Michelle Curtis, DVM 282-9317
Miramar Animal Hospital All Animal Clinic
4448 Hendricks Ave., Suite One 1836 Blanding Blvd
Jacksonville Middleburg
|
| THE BIRD NETWORK
P. O. Box 4244, St. Augustine, FL 32085
GREETINGS! First off I want to thank Sharon M. for her generous donation
toward postage for our newsletter. Any help is always appreciated in improving
the life of everyone's beloved birds. A NEW BIRD CLUB in Jacksonville! They
call themselves the Jacksonville Cage Bird Association. They meet at 2:30 P.M.
the second Sunday of every month at the Jacksonville Airport Hilton. For more
information call Caroline Long at 903-781-4379.
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ASK DOCTOR RHODA
_ A reader asks what can cause stress in a bird and what are its consequences.
Stress can be caused by many outside influences. Change in ownership, a new
cage, moving the cage to a new location within your home, a new toy, a new
hairdo, new additions to the home (a new spouse, new baby, new furniture, new
pet addition), breeding, breeding season can effect sexually mature birds, and
a poor diet are just a few things that can cause stress in your pet bird. A
healthy bird that is eating a complete diet can handle stress with little or no
noticeable signs. But if the bird has any underlying disease, stress can allow
the disease to surface. If after any change in the bird's normal routine you
should see the bird start to look "not quite right", it is always wise to
observe the new behavior closely and contact your avian vet. Signs could be
excessive sleeping, fluffed feathers, sits low on perch, bald spots, not
eating, or loose droppings just to name a few. It is important to observe your
bird so that you are familiar with its normal, healthy look so these sign can
be spotted before real problems set in.
- A reader asks about feather picking
Feather picking is something none of us wants to see. It can be caused by
something as simple as boredom or as serious as liver or kidney disfunction.
It is best to consult your avian vet early on for testing as feather mutilation
can be caused by many underlying problems. An allergic reaction due to giardia
can cause feather picking in cockatiels. It could be a local irritation like
an insect bite or a nerve causing pain making your bird want to chew at the
effected spot. It could be a fungal or bacterial infection, hypothyroidism,
dermatitus, allery, or malnutrition. If your bird was recently imported it may
be mites. If your bird has recently achieved sexual maturity, the hormone
changes can cause the onset of feather picking. A half naked bird can get
chilled and catch a cold. Close observation is required and a trip to your
avian vet for a checkup is advisable. Once all medical possibilities have been
eliminated, you need to look at your routine with your bird. Has it changed
lately so that you have not been able to give the bird the attention it was
used to? Boredom can be a factor, especially in african greys. Birds need
interaction with their people.
This column is for reader use. Please only submit questions that do not
require immediate response. At the end of the newsletter you will find a list
of avian (bird) veterinarians for your more immediate problems.
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HOUSEKEEPING
In selecting a cage for your new bird there are a few items to remember. The
saying goes that no cage is too big, BUT the space between the cage wires can
be too big. Be sure that your bird will not be able to get its head between
the bars and hurt itself. Parrots like to climb, so a cage with some
horizontal bars is best if your bird is a smaller version (cockatiel, lovebird,
etc.) and a wire top is preferable. All vertical wire with some horizontal
support wires are fine for the larger birds or birds that do not tend to climb
(canaries, finches). Some cages have playpens on top for the bird to exercise
on. This is an option. Be sure your bird will have room to flap its wings
inside the cage without touching the sides or hitting any toys you may have
added. This can be difficult with a macaw. You may want to also supply a
separate playpen perch for these guys. A part of the cage that many people
neglect to check when shopping for the perfect cage is the bottom arrangement.
There should be some type of wire barrier between your bird and the tray. This
will help keep your bird out its own mess and away from dropped food that may
have started spoiling. The greater the distance between the bottom wire and
the tray the better.
Perch size and material is also an important consideration when putting
together a comfortable home for your bird. Obviously different size birds have
different size feet requiring different size perches. But amazingly, many
people will put a finch size perch in for their cockatiel and a conure size
perch is supposed to do for their macaw. Just like shoes that fit improperly,
a perch that is too small, or of undesirable material, will cause foot problems
for your pet. Plastic perches will not absorb the natural body oils produced
by your bird's feet and can cause the pads to become too soft and subject to
injury. Metal perches are too hot in the summer and too cold in the winter and
have the same absorption problem as plastic. It is hard to improve on nature.
Natural wood branches are still the best choice for a bird's perch. They vary
in dimension giving the bird's feet a variety of shapes and sizes for exercise.
They are also a good chew toy for those birds that like to chew, so please stay
away from toxic woods such as cherry or avocado. Oak, maple, driftwood or
eucalyptus are a few good choices. Choose a branch that is such a size that
your bird's feet will not wrap completely around it.
Positioning of perches and food/water dishes is an important item to keep in
mind when decorating your pet's cage. You do not want the food or water dishes
under the perches where they may become fouled with droppings. Also, try not
to require that your bird be an acrobat to get to its food or water supply.
The cage needs to be cleaned on a regular basis. There are many things you can
put in the bottom of the cage to make this job easier. There are commercial
items you can buy - ground corn cob, wood shavings, cage liners - or there are
home grown items you can use - newspaper, waxpaper, paper towels to name a few.
What works best for you is the main thing that counts. I advise against the
commercially offered grit paper cage liners as this encourages your bird to
pick grit off the bottom of its cage which may be fouled with fecal matter. If
you choose to use newspaper, do not use anything other than the black-on-white
type. The colored paper contains inks that may prove toxic to your bird if
eaten or chewed on. What ever makes it easy enough to encourage you to clean
the cage often.
Poor hygiene causes many illnesses. A second cage or a separate playpen/perch
comes in handy for days when you do a more thorough cleaning job of your bird's
cage. You need to occasionally take the cage apart and give it a bleach water
wash down (1/2 cup bleach per gallon of water). Be sure to remove all items
made of absorbent material (i.e. wood) and rinse everything very thoroughly
afterward as bleach is toxic and can poison your pet. Wood cannot be
adequately disinfected, so just plan on replacing the perches occasionally.
A cage cover helps establish a bed time for your bird. Routine is important to
a bird. If you choose to cover it, please be consistent and cover it nightly.
Dark color covers are best. Some prints and colors have been known to scare
birds. Watch your bird and be sure the cover you have chosen isn't causing him
trauma. Light color covers are good if you need to cover your bird for travel.
This will allow the bird to know that it is daytime but keep it from being
afraid of the activity around it. A cage cover also works well as a training
tool should you need to cover a screaming pet.
Birds love toys. Swings, bells, mirrors, rings, plastic jar lids, pieces of
wood, lots of things. Just make sure that none of the toys have open link
chains, contain lead weights or lead bell clappers. Much of the costume
jewelry on the market contains lead, so no old jewelry for a toy, please! Also
be sure that the size of the toy fits the bird. Budgie toys will be quickly
disassembled by conures and conure toys will be quickly destroyed by amazons,
etc. The small pieces can be dangerous so consider bird size and chewing
potential when selecting toys. Try popsicle sticks, soaked in fruit juice then
dried for a fun treat. Again, if you treat your parrot as you would a 2-3 year
old human child, then you will have some idea of safety rules.
Toys are more than fun for your bird. Birds NEED toys. It is a psychological
outlet for a very creative, active creature. So many birds are left alone for
many hours each day in a small, caged environment. I am not saying that that
is bad, I am just saying that it can get very boring. Bored birds can develop
bad habits such as feather picking, cage/perch destruction, dish dumping, self
mutilation, screaming, or what ever else the bored baby thinks up. Having a
variety of toys to change occasionally can help prevent this.
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BIRD TALK Magazine is one of your best sources of information regarding birds.
It is both entertaining and educational. If you do not already subscribe to
it, pick up a copy and see for yourself what a valuable tool it can be.
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BIRD DANGERS
The most common accidents seen with birds happen when the birds are left out of
their cages unattended. They love to chew and they do not know the difference
between a toy and an electric cord. They might chew your picture frames, are
they non-toxic? Many plants are poisonous, too. Birds fly into open toilets,
pots of boiling water, hot stove tops, ceiling fans, mirrors, closed windows,
to name a few potential items. They pick up pills that have been dropped and
considered lost. People vitamins can fatally poison a bird. Again, treat your
bird like a 2-3 year old child and you will have an idea of the supervision
required to protect it.
Some items not thought about but that need to be known. Overheated Teflon pans
give off fumes that are fatal to birds. I personally know someone who lost 3
birds to a neighbor's cooking accident with a Teflon pan. Accidents are never
planned, that is why they are called accidents. Don't use Teflon cookware,
ironing board covers, etc. Common household cleaning products give off fumes
that can be toxic to birds. Stay away from ammonia products and limit the
products you do use to one per day. Avoid chemical reactions by letting the
cleaning products air out completely before starting another cleaning project.
Fumes from marking pens are fatal. Cigarette butts are fatal. This is just a
beginning.
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TIPS
1. Do not ever leave your bird out of its cage alone with your dog or cat, no
matter how well they seem to get along. Loud or sudden noises (telephone,
doorbell) can change "normal" behavior.
2. Do not leave your bird with a small child unsupervised. Children mean well
but they do not understand as much as we would like and can cause severe injury
to a pet.
3. Start out giving your bird the amount of attention you think you will be
able to give it on a long term basis. Do not pour the attention on in the
beginning when you know you will only be able to give it limited attention
later. Your bird will not understand and will think you don't love it anymore.
This can cause undesirable behavior.
4. If you want to teach your bird to talk, repetition is the best method. Ask
your pet store to recommend a good book. Tapes teach words but the bird will
not be able to relate the words to their meaning. When you uncover the cage
say "Good Morning". When you walk by say "Hello", etc.. Repetition,
Repetition. Plus, remember that when a bird learns something it will be part
of that bird's vocabulary for a long time. If you do not want to hear it,
don't teach it.
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Join the A.F.A.. They need your support and in return they keep you informed
through a beautiful, bi-monthly magazine. Membership is $20 per year, sent to
A.F.A. Membership Services, P.O.Box 1568, Redondo Beach, CA 90278. Allow 90
days for the first issue to arrive after requesting membership.
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READERS QUESTIONS
- A reader asks for bird resources in immediate area?
The best way I can think of to answer this is to appeal to the readership. I
know that there are many of you out there that are raising birds for a hobby or
know someone who raises birds for a hobby. If any of you would like to be
known to others, I propose that we create a list of first names, bird types and
phone numbers that will be available upon request to anyone who asks. I don't
want to give last names or addresses for obvious reasons. Sadly, there are too
many unscrupulous persons out there and none of us want to risk broadcasting
our locations to John Q. Public. Anyone wanting to participate send your
first name, phone number and bird types to THE BIRD NETWORK and we will get the
list compiled as quickly as possible.
- A reader asks if parrots need sunlight for breeding? It was mentioned that
her cockatiels do well in her garage.
We too, have had cockatiels do well in minimal lighting. But in general,
parrots, like all animals, need natural light to manufacture some of the needed
vitamins. Sunlight also provides the very necessary vitamin D. Our birds are
all indoors, but we have them under Vita-lites which simulate natural sunlight.
It is advisable to supply either some source of natural sunlight or obtain
Vita-lites. In the long run, your bird will live a happier, healthier life for
it. Some problems do not show up immediately, but can take their toll
eventually. Either in shorter productive lives or fewer healthy babies.
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| THE BIRD NETWORK
P.O. BOX 4244, ST. AUGUSTINE, FL 32085
HAPPY HOLIDAYS! Hope your Christmas/Hanakah is joyous and may the New
Year bring you all the happiness you deserve. Thanks to Sue K. we now
have a mailing address for the Jacksonville Avicultural Society. It
is P. O. Box 14621, Jacksonville, FL 32238 for those of you wishing to
get more information on their club.
ASK DOCTOR RHODA
- A reader comments that her bird's feathers are ruff and dull
looking.
There are several possible problems that can contribute to a rough
dull appearance of the feathers. Probably the single most important
factor is diet. A bird needs to be on a balanced diet which includes
plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables as well as a balanced seed or
pelleted diet. Vitamin A is probably the single most important
vitamin because a seed diet is deficient in it and it is intimately
involved in the healthy appearance of the feathers. Sources of
vitamin A include dark green, orange and yellow vegetables including
romaine, green beans, broccoli, carrots, sweet potatoes, yellow squash,
alfalfa, etc.. Also, bathing is very important for most birds and
often if given an opportunity to bathe, your dull, ruffled companion
will transform. Providing a large dish of water, misting the bird
with water, or taking the bird into the shower with you are ways that
you can offer a bath to your bird. Be sure to provide a warm, draft
free area while drying to prevent a chill after bathing. Underlying
medical problems can also be involved in poor feather condition. One
thing that should be noted is when the last molt occurred. I have had
owners come in with birds that have not been seen to molt in 3 years,
where a normal molting occurs one to two times a year. If a lack of a
normal molt is what is happening in your bird, the feathers will
become dark and raggedy in appearance because they are old.
Underlying medical problems are usually the cause for this, although
good nutrition is also necessary for a normal molt. One common cause
is a condition known as hypothyroidism, where the body does not
produce a normal level of thyroid hormone. This condition is
diagnosed with a blood test and treatment involves a hormone
supplement given daily in the water. Other underlying diseases
include Psitticine Beak & Feather Disease, infection, hepatic disease
and parasites (intestinal or feather). These problems need to be
checked out if there is no response to good husbandry.
- Lead Poisoning, what is it and what can be done?
Heavy metal poisoning is a real risk in our pet and aviary birds.
Zinc and lead toxicity are the two main problems due to the presence
of these metals in galvanized mesh wire, hardware cloth, welds on
wrought iron cage and solder. Other sources of lead for our pet birds
are lead based paint (especially in homes that are old), lead
weights, plaster impregnated with lead, putty, foil on wine bottles,
mirror backs, stained glass, tiffany lamps, batteries, costume
jewelry, linoleum, antiques, leaded gas fumes, bird toys with lead
weights, contaminated feed and bone meal products. Signs of heavy
metal toxicity include diarrhea (can be greenish black), anorexia,
pasted vent, bloody droppings (usually in Amazons), depression,
weakness, circling, seizures and blindness. Also, with chronic
exposure, pigment changes in the feather and poor beak condition may
be present. Consultation with an avian veterinarian is necessary if
this is suspected. Diagnosis is made by a blood test for the presence
of heavy metals and a radiograph, where dense metal can be seen in the
gizzard, can be helpful. Toxic levels of zinc have not yet been
established. Treatment includes the use of heavy metal chelators
including CaEDTA and BAL. These bind to the heavy metals and form
nontoxic complexes that are removed from the body. Also, feeding
mineral oil or Epsom salts help to eliminate the metal from the
gizzard by acting as cathartics. Surgical removal is indicated if the
heavy metal particles do not pass with the medical therapy. The
prognosis depends on the amount of metal and the status of the
patient's health, and the ability of the owner to recognize the
problem. Too often this diagnosis is made on necropsy. If your bird
has a tendency to chew on the cage, make sure it is a safe cage. If
it is a galvanized mesh wire, leaving it outside to weather for 1-2
months or scrubbing it with a vinegar solution is indicated.
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Winter has closed in upon us and it is time to consider our birds'
housing for the cold season. For those pets that are indoors no
modifications should be necessary. But, for those living out of doors
year around, protection from drafts is important. Shelter from the
wind and rain is imperative to their well being. Wrapping the outdoor
cage in visqueen can block off a good portion of the cold winter winds.
Perches should be made of wood and of a size that the bird can
complete cover its toes when sleeping to prevent frostbite. Perches
that are too small can prevent the birds feathers from properly
insulating its little toes and they may truly freeze off during some
of our more severe winter nights. It is also not a bad idea to supply
nest boxes for all birds. Those that choose to use them will find a
much warmer place to sleep.
There are some other basic care items to remember. Due to the time of
year, you will probably find that your birds have recently completed
their semi-annual molt, therefore:
WINGS
Your bird will need its wings clipped at least twice a year. Birds'
feathers are constantly replacing themselves so the clipping your bird
received earlier this year will need redoing. It does not take many
flight feathers for a bird to fly. You need to keep the wings clipped
to keep your bird from hurting itself. Many people have felt it cruel
to clip a bird's feathers to keep it from flying and they lost their
pets, either to its flying out an open window or door or flying into
something and fatally injuring itself. Properly clipped wings will
still allow some flight capability, but it will be controllable.
Macaws and cockatoos can get good lift without flight feathers. You
will be able to do the trim job yourself, with help from someone else,
after being shown how by your pet store owner, an avian vet or someone
experienced at it. If you prefer to let someone else be the "Bad
Guy", take your bird to someone for grooming.
BEAK & NAILS
Your birds beak and nails can become quite sharp or overgrown and will
need to be cut or filed occasionally, but the same rules pertain to
cutting these as the wings. If the beak or nails are cut improperly a
bird can bleed to death. It is best to be shown how to do it right or
have a professional do it. Plentiful chew toys should prevent the
problem of beak overgrowth.
When holding your bird for grooming, keep in mind that its chest needs
to expand to breath. Holding it too tightly will cut off its air
supply.
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AWARENESS SAVES
The most common accidents seen with birds happen when the birds are
left out of their cages unattended. They love to chew and they do not
know the difference between a toy and an electric cord. They might
chew your picture frames, are they non-toxic? How about the woodwork
and the wall paint, is it old paint? Could it contain lead? Many
plants are poisonous, too. Birds fly into open toilets, sinks full of
dish water, pots of boiling water, hot stove tops, ceiling fans, to
name a few potential hazards. Treat your bird like a 2-3 year old
child and you will have an idea of the supervision required to protect
it. It will be worth the effort.
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Breeding season is just around the corner again! I can hear you pet
bird owners out there saying "So what? Why should I care?" Let me
tell you why. I have had people call me with various complaints. "My
bird is pulling its feathers out." Or, "My bird started biting. He
never used to." Or "Lately everytime my husband walks into the room
and I am holding my bird, I get bitten." Or, "My bird has been acting
real bitchy lately." The first thing I ask is how old the bird is.
Depending upon the species of bird you own, maturity can arrive
anywhere from 1 year (for cockatiels) to 6 years for individual macaws
or cockatoos. Each bird is an individual. Like humans, some birds go
into sexual maturity without batting an eye, others become hormonal
basket cases for a few months each year. Occasionally a bird will go
so far around the hormonal bend that the only answer is to set it up
in a breeding situation. So, pet owners, if all of a sudden your
loving friend turns into a tazmanian devil, step back and ask yourself
these questions. 1) What month is this (March, April, May)? 2) How
old is he/she now? (My husband's Blue & Gold Macaw turned 4 this
November!) 3) Is my friend worth weathering the storm for the next
couple of months? (Of course it is!) 4) Did we go through this last
year, too? 5) How long did it take to subside? This last question
is the one you need to pay the most attention to. If your friend
never seemed to accept you again and has become too difficult to
handle, do the bird a favor. Do not sell it to someone else as a pet.
Your baby will simply keep changing hands until it finally gets sold
to a breeder. Have patience with your pet. If you have been happy
with it in the past, it will be worth waiting to see the outcome. If
after a couple of months your charmer returns to you, then you will
have reaped the benefits of patience. If after the second spring
after your pet went weird, your friend still acts hostile then
seriously consider finding a breeder to take it. Too many people sell
their birds during the spring due to these hormonal changes, not
knowing that in due time their old friends will "return" to them.
Please don't make a hasty decision to sell your friend in the spring.
Patience pays.
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TAMING
I have been asked to include an article on taming birds, making them
into pets. I will give a general overview, requesting caution, care
and love be used in any procedure chosen.
There are some questions to be answered before you decide to embark on
a training program.
1. What type of bird do you have? What are its species related
personality quirks?
2. How old is the bird? How long have you had it?
3. If you have not had the bird since babyhood, think about its prior
home environment. How was it treated there? If mistreated, was the
prior owner's hair the same color as yours? They relate like-to-like
and carry grudges.
4. Is it an imported bird? Unless imported as a baby, most imported
birds have been taught to fear humans, especially hands.
5. Are you willing to accept the fact that taming your bird could
take many slow, frustrating months? A few birds, like some cockatoos,
will tame quite readily. Others may never tame.
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