Conference noted::woodworking_and_tools

    I'm in the process of starting a small, but wide bookcase which I'd
    like to make out of solid cherry. I've got a few questions and would
    appreciate some advice.
    
    The bookcase will be about 26"h x 51"w x 11 3/4"d. I will be edge
    gluing boards to make the 11 3/4" dimension.
    
    The questions:
    
    1. Any tips on how to edge glue so that I get absolutely perfect mating
    of the boards? I'm hesitant to use biscuits since I can never get the
    boards exactly right. This is normally not a problem for me on
    something like a bureau where the inside is hidden. I just sand the
    exposed surface. But with a bookcase, not only is the inside visible,
    but I will have to put a vertical partition in to support the shelf in
    the middle, so it needs to mate perfectly with the top and bottom.
    
    I don't have a planer or I would edge glue and plane.
    
    2. Constructing the vertical partition. Given the fact that there may
    be some irregularities in the top and bottom from the glue-up, would I
    be better off biscuiting the partition to the top and bottom or using
    a dado joint?
    
    3. Attaching the top to the sides. It is ok to attach the top to sides
    using just glue or rabbeting the sides and setting the top in with
    glue? Am I running any risk of incompatible wood expansion? (I suspect
    not since the top and sides are attached cross-grain to cross-grain).
    
    I have considered using plywood rather than solid cherry, but my wife
    really likes the solid wood better. I'm sure plywood would would make
    it easier, but it's not really an option.
    
    Thanks for the help.
    
    Art
    

	Hmmm...aren't the bisquits supposed to help the alignment?
In my opinion, they're certainly not needed for strength in a long
grain to long grain glue situation, and may actually reduce the strength
a bit.  But...with a decent and properly used machine, referencing both
boards from the 'finish' side, how could you not get a perfect alignment?
That's what it's supposed to do....are you being careful to always put
the fence on the same, 'finish' side of both boards?

	I assume you're starting with S2S boards (surfaced two sides - 
the faces, not the edges) and ripping them to width before gluing.  With
a good table saw and blade, you could just glue up direcly off the saw.
Norm would recommend a pass on the jointer first.  A hand plane could
also be used.  Then just glue and clamp (often).  With flat boards, if
you get the ends aligned at the joints the middles will follow.  Use small
clamps with waxed blocks to clamp at the joint to force this.  Another
choice would be to use those 'squeeze' double-bar clamps that align
the boards automatically.

	However you do it, you're likely to have some glue squeeze out 
at least, if not also a little alignment ridge.  This can be easily
removed by your tool of choice - run the whole thing through the power
planer, or power sand, or scrape and/or handplane it off.  Now you've
got wide flat boards, and you move on to your joinery of choice.

	While using the plywood may give you wide-and-flat to start with,
you still get the same issues, as you've now got to edge the cut plywood
edges with solid stock - and that brings you back to aligning the glue
joints and cleaning up the resulting ridges.

    Dave, thanks for the input.
    
    I guess what I'm whining about is the small alignment ridge which I
    wanted to avoid in my glue up. My main worry is not getting rid of the
    ridge for appearance sake, but having a perfectly flat glued board so I
    can cut an accurate dado in it or butt join with my biscuit joiner. 
    
    My problem in the past has been that small alignment ridge which I
    can't seem to avoid with biscuits, hence my request for advice. 
    
    Thanks for the tips. I'll concentrate on the alignment during glue-up.
    Instead of buying those special clamps, I think I might try small
    wedges driven in under the pipe clamps over the alignment points.
    Waxing them is a great idea.
    
    Art
    
    Art
    

    Art
    
    The alignment of boards is only possible by making sure each board  you
    use is perfectly flat.  The easiest way to do this is off course using
    a jointer first to flatten on edge then running it through a planer. 
    I took it from your note you have neither so its a hand plane you need
    to use.  Even wood that is S3S must still be checked for cupping or
    warping.  The best way is to lay the lumber on a flat surface and
    see if the board is flat or cupped.  You need to use sighting sticks (not 
    sure of real name).  These are two sticks you have made identical in
    height and thickness.  You lay them on the ends of the board and scan
    down them with your eyes to see if the wood lies identically on both
    sticks.  This will help you figuire out how the board is shaped.  You
    then hand plane until the sight sticks show equal flatness on both
    ends.  I know this is not the best description on how to use these, but
    maybe it will give you and idea what you need to do.  My first mistake
    when I began woodworking was assuming because I paid a lot of money for
    finished lumber and that when I bought it it looked straight that it
    was.  If you take the time to plane all lumber flat you will have pefectly
    even glue ups.
    
    Brian

    I think you hit the issue on the nose, Brian. In my previous projects,
    I made the assumption that since I had S3S or S4S boards, that they
    were flat. 
    
    I think the sticks you refer to are called winding sticks. Your
    explanation of how to use them is excellent. 
    
    Now...if I can only figure out a place to put a power planer in my
    small shop.... and of course where the $$$ will come from.......I
    think I really do need one...
    
    Thanks again for the info.
    
    Art
    

Hi Art,

Why would buying a planer help?  (Other than of course
the fact that's it's always better to have more tools :-)

The S3S board is already of constant thickness, it's just 
warped/cupped, etc.  Are you saying you'll glue up and then plane?

I don't have a planer or jointer or hand planes I can use yet.
But I've had good luck actually buying surfaced boards (red oak)
from (avert your eyes everyone...) Home Depot.
I lay the edge of a piece of paper/brochure across the board
at several places to check for flatness across the width.

I've had 2 glued-up projects work out great.  I was less careful
once picking up some poplar to just fool around with and practice
dovetails.  The end result was not pretty...

Mike

(PS, the RAS is working out great!)

    Actually the best way to buy wood for a project is to buy it rough and
    plane it down just before you use it.  Of course the danger in this
    method is when you take off the patina often times you find flaws in
    the grain that require some fancy use to get around.  I also want to
    caution you to watch out in assuming S4S or S3S means the wood is
    uniformly thick, I made that assumption a couple of times and when I
    went to use boards found that one end is 1/8" thinner than the other,
    which means they planed the board without taking out the warp.
    
    Brian                                        

    Mike, thanks for the encouragement. Glad to hear the RAS is working
    well for you.
    
    My previous projects have worked out fine, but I've had to do what I
    think might be a lot of sanding to get rid of the alignment ridges. Of
    course, being lazy, I only did the sanding on the visible side (the
    projects were bureaus), so I didn't bother sanding the inside of the
    panels.
    
    However, with a bookcase, it's different....the inside is visible and
    needs to be flat. Furthermore, I want to be able to ensure fitting the
    center partition without worrying about a potentially wavy surface.
    Hence the thought that it would be nice to have a planer to plane the
    glued-up panel....this would only work for relatively narrow panels of
    course unless I spent big $$$ for a mega-planer, which I don't intend
    to do.
    
    By the way, I haven't measured the thickness of my boards, but I bought
    them from New England Hardwood in Littleton and they have done great
    work in the past. I'm not anticipating a big problem. Just being
    somewhat picky and a little unsure of myself. And, of course, I NEED
    another tool. Haven't bought one since last fall and I'm suffering
    withdrawal.
    
    Art