| Yep, there's silicone, old wax, or your air is full of water and oil.
Do you have a proper water and oil separator unit in your air line?
Also, why are you spraying color directly onto the gel coat? The
surface needs to be prepared and primed before putting on any new coat
of paint on it. Paint doesn't typically stick to smooth, dirty
surfaces...not for long, anyway.
The surface has to be prepared by wiping down with enamel reducer
chased by a clean, lint-free cloth while it's still wet, sanding, blowing
off with clean, oil/water free air then wiping down with enamel
reducer again. THEN you're ready to prime and repaint on a smooth,
clean surface that won't let go of the primer and paint.
Hint: Prep Solv, Pre Kleeno, or Acryl Solv etc. do NOT make good
oil/wax removing agents... they're good for removing tar and road film
but too oily themselves as a direct surface washer prior to painting.
Lacquer thinner is not much better either for painting purposes unless
you're putting on gloppy old plain oil-based enamel.
Take a look at the "Spray Booths" and painting notes in the regular bike
notes files for more detailed descriptions on techniques.
Also, there are literally 100's of different paint types and systems
to use depending on the useage, surface type etc. E.G. you don't use
the same materials over aluminum, steel, fibreglass, or plastics.
"Cellulose" is also a big category of paints all by itself... do you
mean Nitro-Cellulose Lacquer? Not a great choice for a vehicle because
it's relatively delicate and doesn't stand up to weather well.
But it sure is pretty. However, it's not REEEL pretty until you have
about 10 hand rubbed coats of it which takes an ARTIST with YEARS of
experience to do. I know because I have a vehicle painted with it and
it's a pain in the butt.
My advice: If you're not equipped with either the tools or knowledge
to paint the parts, have 'em done by someone who's been doing it for
years...a boat dealer can tell you who does that kinda work.
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