Conference noted::equitation

1948.0. "Preparation for Foaling" by HYLNDR::PRESTIDGE (The Systems Test Group) Wed Feb 01 1995 16:28

    
    
    Hi,
    
    I looked at other foaling notes described in 4.76 and none
    seemed to fit, so here goes with a new note.
    
    I snagged the following off the internet.  Lots of good info.
    I have an Arabian mare who's in foal to a Paint stallion; she'll
    probably go in the late March timeframe.
    
    Just had the vet out for the 9 month Rhino shot; he didn't say
    anything about any more shots needed prior to the big day.  As I hadn't 
    found this document yet, I didn't ask about the 4 WEEKS PRIOR TO
    FOALING section in the document below.  
    
    Any thoughts/recommendations specifically on that section?
    
    thanks, -John
    
    
Preparation For Foaling: A Basic Guide To Getting Ready
  
You have been waiting patiently for the arrival of the new foal,
but as the due date approaches, you begin to feel anxious and
question whether or not you've prepared adequately for the big
moment.
  
Just relax.  Remember that almost 95 percent of all foalings
occur with no problems.  And now that your mare is, indeed
pregnant, half the work is done.  All you have to do now is
follow a few simple guidelines, make a couple of last minute
preparations and know your facts.  Then you can sit back and let
Mother Nature run her course.
  
A mare's gestation period is usually from 320 to 360 days, give
or take a week.  Some people like to go by a general rule of
thumb; 11 months plus 10 days.  But remember, every mare is
different and gestation lengths will vary.  So don't become
alarmed if your mare is a little overdue or begins to show signs
of parturition a couple of days ahead of schedule. You're the one
looking at the calendar, not the mare.
  
Under normal conditions, up until the eighth or ninth month of
gestation, a mare in foal can be treated just as she was before
she became pregnant.  The diet that maintained her weight before
breeding is usually adequate for the first nine months of
gestation.  Exercise is also good for the mare up until the last
two to three months before foaling.  However, as the ninth month,
or approximately eight weeks before gestation approaches, you
need to begin preparations.
  
The following outline indicates the steps you may want to mark on
your calendar as you prepare the mare and her foal for safe
delivery.  There are many opinions out there as to what to do and
not to do in making preparations.  Some people like to witness
every minute of the delivery while others opt to give their mare
the privacy she often indicates she would like.
  
Instead of centering on one particular method, this calendar will
give you some of the options and you can choose what best suits
your pregnant mare and your breeding operation.
  
  
EIGHT WEEKS PRIOR TO FOALING
  
Take your mare off fescue pasture or fescue hay if the forage is
infected with the endophyte fungus.  Infected fescue can cause
abortions, prolonged gestation and lack of milk in mares in late
gestation.  Feed her high quality hay or pasture forages and
about five pounds of a balanced grain mixture.  Be sure not to
overfeed.
  
Get the mare vaccinated for rhinopneumonitis (She should also
have this vaccination at fifth and seventh month of gestation, as
well).
  
FOUR WEEKS PRIOR TO FOALING
  
Get your mare vaccinated and dewormed for pre-immunization of the
foal.  Vaccination boosters should include influenza and tetanus
and also encephalomyelitis.  The mare will build antibodies to
these diseases that are passed to the foal through the colostrum
or first milk.  If preferred, a fourth rhinopneumonitis
vaccination may be administered.  Consult your local veterinarian
on a vaccination porgram.
  
Caslick sutures used to prevent uterine infection, if present,
should be removed.
  
Move the mare to the farm where she will foal, so she can build
immunity to any new diseases that may be harbored on the farm for
herself and the foal.
  
The mare's udder may begin to fill.  This is termed "bagging up,"
and it is normal.
  
  
TWO WEEKS PRIOR TO FOALING
  
Look for additional signs of parturition in your mare.  She may
show a distended udder, if she hasn't already.
  
The mare will begin to show signs of shrinkage in the buttocks
and drooping of the abdomen.  This is normal, as her muscles and
ligaments are relaxing in preparation for the birthing process.
  
ONE WEEK PRIOR TO FOALING
  
Your mare's teats will fill out and the end of her nipples may
become covered with a wax-like substance.
  
The vulva will appear loose and her milk may drop.  You may see
signs of this by finding dried milk on the insides of the mares
back legs.
  
The mare may have "practice contractions," in which her uterus is
preparing for delivery.  She will seem to be colicky, kicking at
her abdomen, pawing the ground and curling her upper lip. The
symptoms should subside after the contractions pass, so if she
persists in the colicky behavior, call your veterinarian.
  
Bring your mare into a pasture or barn away from the other
horses.  If your mare is going to foal in a pasture, make sure
the area is dry and that there is plenty of grass.  Foals need to
be kept warm and dry for at least 72 hours after birth.
  
It is a good idea to call your veterinarian and let him know when
you expect the mare to deliver.  Find out his schedule and when
he will be on duty.  More specific details can be worked out when
the mare begins the actual labor.
  
  
PREPARING THE FOALING AREA
  
Clean and disinfect the foaling stall.  Scrub the walls and
surrounding area after each foaling to prevent infections.
  
The foaling area should be at least 14 by 14 feet, to allow
plenty of room for delivery.  Foaling is an obvious discomfort to
the mare and she will need plenty of room to walk around and re-
position herself.
  
Make sure the foaling area is dry, warm (but not hot), dust-free
and has no drafts.
  
Use straw rather than sawdust for foaling.  It prevents dust
particles from getting in the foal's nostrils and the mare's
uterus.
  
Have good, clear lighting, but not harsh bright light.  The
environment should be quiet, as the mare will most likely deliver
at night.
  
Eliminate hidden hazards in the foaling area.  A gap in a plank
may not catch a full grown horse's hoof, but it will trap a
newborn foal.  Also make sure the mare's feed is above the level
of the foal so he will not bang into it on his unsteady legs.
Check for nails or sharp objects to avoid injury to the newborn
(See sidebar on preparing a foaling kit).
  
  
LABOR AND PARTURITION
  
Labor lasts approximately one to four hours and parturition about
30 minutes.  Once the water breaks, birth should be anywhere from
15 minutes to one hour away.
  
If you choose, wrap the mare's tail to avoid hairs getting in the
way of the birthing.  Use flannel gauze, derby bandages or an
athletic sock.  If you use an Ace bandage, be sure not to cut off
circulation to the tail.
  
Your mare may be restless, pace back and forth, seek isolation,
sweat, urinate frequently and continually lie down and get up
again, looking for a comfortable position.  Once you see the
foals feet covered in the opaque placenta at the vulva the
foaling process should be completed in 15 minutes.
  
If the birthing process is taking longer than normal, and it
seems the foal is in an abnormal position (any position other
than forefeet first in a diving manner), force the mare up to
walk around.  Oftentimes, this will straighten the foal out
naturally.  Nevertheless, while walking the mare, call the
veterinarian for assistance (See sidebar on dystocia).
  
Once the foal is expelled, the mare will often take a breather
while the foal is still half-way inside the vagina.  The final
push should release the foal entirely.
  
  
POSTPARTUM ATTENTION
  
If necessary, clear away mucous from the newborn`s nasal passage.
Use a clean, dry towel or a nasal aspirator.
  
The mare should expel the placenta from anywhere between six to
12 hours.  If the placenta is hanging out, swinging against the
mare's hind legs, it may spook her.  If so, tie the placenta up
with twine.  DO NOT pull or cut the placenta out yourself.  It
must come out naturally and of its own accord.  When it is
expelled, make sure the entire placenta (both horns) is out.
Residual placenta left inside the uterus can cause serious
infections.
  
Either allow the mother and foal to break the umbilical cord
naturally or break it yourself by holding the cord in both hands
and pulling it apart.  There is a notch about two inches from the
foals abdomen where the umbilical cord usually breaks.  DO NOT
cut the cord or it could cause excessive bleeding.
  
Swab the foal's umbilical cord with tincture of iodine to guard
against infection.
  
If the foal doesn't reach the sternal position (resting on his
chest, not his side) soon after his mother nudges, prop him up
between two bales of hay so he can breath easier.
  
Make sure the foal nurses within the first six to 12 hours of
life.  He will receive valuable nutrients and antibodies through
the colostrum in his mother's milk.  Colostrum may stream or leak
from the mare's teats before foaling resulting in low levels of
antibodies.  The mare's milk can be checked by a device known as
a colostrometer (Lane Manufacturing, Denver, CO.).  There are
also test kits which can determine if adequate immunity has been
transferred to the foal.
  
Now that you have a healthy, handsome addition to your farm, you
can breath easier.  As always, it's a good idea to get your
veterinarian to come and check the youngster out.  Be sure to
keep the placenta (afterbirth) so the veterinarian can inspect
it.  They will further advise you on how to care for your new
foal and the mare.
  
SIDEBARS
  
  
YOUR FOALING KIT SHOULD INCLUDE:
  
It's a good idea to have the following items handy during the
foaling.  However, you may not need all of them; it's just a
precautionary measure.  Be sure to avoid over-interfering with
the natural process.
  
A clean stainless steel bucket
mild soap
warm, clean water
paper towels and cloth towels
tail wraps, flannel gauze or athletic sock
obstetrical lubricants
plastic sleeves
halter and chain
clamps (to clamp off umbilical cord if there is excessive
bleeding)
iodine solution
nasal aspirator
enema bag (if the foal has trouble expelling meconium, the first
stool, is straining or has not defecated within a few hours an
enema may be needed)
  
  
  
POTENTIAL PROBLEMS: DYSTOCIA OR DIFFICULT BIRTH
  
Dystocia can be caused by several factors; a mal-positioned foal,
an unusually large foal, twins, premature foals and diseased,
contracted or dead foals.
  
The normal birthing position for a foal is forefeet down,
appearing with one forefoot slightly in front of the other, and
the nose coming out parallel to the knees.
  
Any delivery position other than this is a sign of trouble and
the veterinarian should be called immediately.  In the meantime,
get your mare on her feet and walk her.
  
The veterinarian can usually correct mal-positioned foals by
first pushing the foal back into the birth canal and re-
positioning it.  Or emergency cesarean sections may be performed
if the foal is posterior, sideways or has one leg back.
  
By:  M. D. Christensen* and L. A. Lawrence*
  
______________________________
* M. D. Christensen is a graduate student in Animal Science at
Virginia Tech.
* L. A. Lawrence is the Extension Horse Animal Scientist at
Virginia Tech.
.

    The reasoning behind the recommendation for vaccination 4 weeks prior to
    delivery goes like this:
    
    	1. The mare's immune system responds to the vaccination and
    		increases the level of antibodies in her system
    
    	2. The peak level of antibodies is reached about 1 month after
    		vaccination and drops of gradually over a period of time.
    
    	3. With an increased level of antibodies in her system, mama's
    		first milk or colostrum will contain higher levels of
    		antibodies that get passed to the foal. Note that the
    		foal is only able to absorb these antibodies in the milk
    		for a short period of time(i.e. a couple days) so that 
    		vaccinating mama after foaling will not help.
    
    	4. With more antibodies absorbed from the first milk, the foal will
    		be more able to resist disease(or at least those against
    		which mama was vaccinated!).
    
    Ask your vet for his/her opinion.

    
    John,
    
    Thanks for the explanation.  I'm somewhat surprised though that my vet
    didn't recommend this to me.
    
    A couple of other questions:  
    
    o Has anyone heard of any increased risk of abortions or other problems
      from worming past the 9th month?  I've heard from some folks who
      recommend waiting past the 9th til after the foal is born.
    
      I wormed by mare on 1-Jan with Ivermectin; she's starting her 10th
      month and would normally be planning for a dose of Strongid soon. 
    
      Any thoughts?
    
    o How 'bout with the injections - do they pose any increase risk?  It
      sounds like it would be riskier to wait because of the colostrum
      benefits.
    
    o What about the Rabies vaccination - should this also be done 4 weeks
      prior or wait til after the special day?