| T.R | Title | User | Personal
Name | Date | Lines |
|---|
| 42.1 | | PLANET::NICKERSON | Bob Nickerson DTN 282-1663 :^) | Wed Feb 10 1988 16:08 | 30 |
| If you are just looking for turnout paddocks, 200' x 200' is adequate
for up to about three horses. I like to have one small one 50'
x 100' for horse recovering from injury. If you are looking for
a size so they can graze, think about one acre per horse. The paddocks
you described will have no grass (or roots) in them after six weeks
regardless of how much you feed. I like to put posts in every eight
feet on the same side (for asthetic reasons). The is no margin
for error when you alternate sides. I also use 16 foot rails which
I overlap as follows:
start of top rail
/
-------------||-------------------||-------------
|| || start of middle rail
|| ||/
-------------||-------------------||-------------
|| ||
|| ||
-------------||-------------------||-------------
||\ ||
|| start of bottom rail
Put the posts on the outside if you put them all on one side since
the fence will be stronger and the horses will have less to chew.
Regards,
Bob
|
| 42.2 | | CHGV04::LEECH | DTN:421-5623 Chicago, Ill. RLO | Wed Feb 10 1988 20:13 | 15 |
| Horses being much like people, you might want to go ahead and seperate
the paddocks into two seperate units in case the two horses take
an immediate and total dislike of each other. Also, many mares
get extremly protective of their foals and will attack another horse
put in with them. Another thing is that with two enclosures you
can rotate the horses between them so that both of the paddocks
don't get grazed down to bare earth and create duststorms in the
summer and mudholes the rest of the year. My Dad has five acres
and two horses (both geldings) turned in there. The pasture is
divided into three sections. He rotates them through on a 2 to 4
week schedule and doesn't have much of a problem keeping it green
all summer long. Another thing that he does is to keep the pasture
mowed so that the weeds don't take over and crowd out the grass.
Pat
|
| 42.3 | Thanks | BUGEYE::MACEACHERN | Electric Horesman | Thu Feb 11 1988 12:59 | 21 |
| Thanks for the info. It seems like I can do what I had planned if
I am good about managing the land properly. I will probably make additional
pastures later, but I want to get the two paddocks done first and then do
more at a slower pace.
Pat, it was good to hear that your Dad does the same type of land
management. Know I know it is not impossible.
My reason for the two paddocks is that the books say to keep a mare
,that has been breed, away from stallions and geldings. I want to be able
to do that, but I'm not sure if with my two it is needed.
Sunday, my mare and Skip, my gelding, are the best of friends and I
am afraid that I may have problems if I seperate them. I have had a time
when we took Skip to a show and both animals were very upset about that.
The last show of the season, last year we ended up taking both, so we had
no problems.
Bob, I guess I didn't explain myself properly concerning the fencing.
What I meant to say was that I would increase the number of posts when I came
to a gate so that the distance between posts would be 4 feet rather then 8 ft.
In a previous note this was suggested and it sounded like a good idea.
Well, Thanks again
Dave.
|
| 42.4 | HERE IS WHAT WE DID | SCOMAN::ROCK | | Thu Feb 11 1988 20:55 | 34 |
| HERE IS WHAT WE HAVE DONE SO FAR.....I TOO HAVE MARES AND GELDING
THAT ARE BEST FRIENDS AND MY MARES ARE PREGNANT. I LEAVE THEM ALL
OUT TOGETHER UNTILL A FEW DAYS BEFORE (A WEEK) AND THEN I SEPERATE
THEM INTO PADDOCKS SIDE BY SIDE.
---------------------
| |
|THIS IS 2 ACRES |------------| |--------------------------------|-|
| | | | | |
| | 100'X200+ | | 100'X200+ | |
| | |----------| | 3/4 ACRE |
| | | 30X30 | | |
| | | BARN | | PASTURE ||
| | |----------| | |
| | -|30X40 | | |
| | |PADDOCK | | |
| | |--------- | | |
| | |30X40 SHEEP PEN | ||
|--------------------|------------|----------|-----------|-----------------------
WE STILL HAVE MORE FENCING AND LAND TO CLEAR BUT AS YOU CAN SEE
WE HAVE PADDOCKS SIDE BY SIDE AND THAT WEY I CAN SEPERATE THE
"CREATURES" AND THEY CAN SEE ONE ANOTHER AND THEY ARE USUALLY
QUIET. BUT OTHER THEN THAT I TURN ALL MY ANIMALS OUT TOGETHER.
WE USE 4"X4"X 8'(PLUS) POSTS AND 1 1/2" X 6" RAILS. WE HAVE FOUR
RAILS AND THE FENCE IS 5' HEIGH. THIS HAS WORKED OUT GREAT FOR WHEN
I HAD A STALLION AND FOR WEANING THE FOALS. ( THEY ARE NOT THAT
BRAVE TO TRY JUMPING THE FENCE) AND IT KEEP THE CRAZY "MOMMY'S"
IN THEIR PASTURE.
HOPE THIS IS SOME HELP.....HAPPY DIGGING. I DO NOT ENVY YOU FOR
WE ARE ONLY HALF THE WAY THERE WITH OUR FENCEING AND CLEARING.
GOOD LUCK, TERRY
|
| 42.5 | | MIST::BACKSTROM | | Mon Feb 15 1988 19:15 | 25 |
| RE: .5
Looking at the location of your barn. How do you prevent your horses
from chewing your barn siding?
The reason I ask is that I'm going to take the temporary post &
pipe section down now that the barn is done. I though about hot
wire since chemicals don't last.
Larry.
:---------------------
:
-----------------\--------|:
\ :
\<- temp: BARN
\ :
Paddock \ -
\ | Sliding
\ | Door
\ -
\ :
|:----------------------
|
|
|
| 42.6 | MY HORSES DON'T CHEW TO MUCH | SCOMAN::ROCK | | Tue Feb 16 1988 19:01 | 20 |
|
WELL, I FIRST OFF AM VERY LUCKY THAT MY HORSES ARE NOT BAD CHEWERS.
WE USED CREASOTE ON THE BARN WHILE WE WERE ABLE TO STILL GET IT.
OUR HOUSE IS STAINED IN A DARK BROWN SO THEY MATCHED WELL. I DO
HAVE WIRE AROUND THE TREES AND USE COPERNOL CLEAR ON THE FENCES
NOW TO STOP THE ANIMALS FROM CHEWING ON THEM. BUT AS THEY DO GET
BOARD, THERE IS A SPOT ON MY FENCING ( AN EIGHT FOOT SECTION) THAT
I MISSED WHEN TREATING THEM AND THAT DOES NOT HAVE A HOT WIRE ON
IT THAT THEY DID CHEW THIS WINTER. SO IN THE SUMMER I WILL REPLACE
IT. MY HORSES AS A RULE STAY OUT IN THE BIGGER PASTURES AND ARE
ONLY IN THE ONES NEXT TO THE BARN WHEN I NEED TO KEEP THEM SEPERATED
OR QUITE AND NOT OUT RUNNING WITH THE OTHERS.
THE HOT WIRE ON THE INSIDE OF THE TOP RAIL DOES WONDERS AS FAR AS
STOPPING THEM FROM LEANING ON THE FENCE AND CHEWWING IT.
OTHER THEN THAT I DO NOT KNOW WHAT TO SUGGEST....FEED MORE HAY DURING
THE DAY AND NIGHT......
GOOD LUCK, TERRY
|
| 42.11 | Building a Playpen for a Horse? | KACIE::DEUFEL | Daniel Allen Deufel | Sat Jul 07 1990 13:56 | 36 |
| My wife has asked me to see about putting up a 50'x50' corral at the
far end of our back yard so she has a place to let her horse free in
when she rides her. (She boards the horse 4 miles away.)
It would seem that an electric fence would solve this problem but
knowing nothing about these I need some recommendations. I would guess
that a 50'x50' area would require 400' of wire and a fence post with
insulators every 10'.
If I am not too far off base, a 50'x50' area would require the
following:
1 Battery Powered Fence Charger
1 Battery
20 Fence posts
40 Insulators
400' Wire
2 Insulated Gate handles
Is this reasonable? If so, could someone answer the following:
o Is two strands of wire necessary?
o Is the woven fence tape better/worse than 14/16 gauge wire?
o Can anyone recommend an inexpensive battery powered charger?
o How high should the fence be?
o Are the nylon round fence posts a reasonable alternative to steel?
Finally, is there any place that handles used/inexpensive fence
supplies? I have priced out the above parts list and keep coming up
with a cost of $150. This seems a lot to pay for a playpen for the
horse.
Comments PLEASE!
Cheers,
-Abdul-
|
| 42.12 | | LANDO::AHARRIS | | Mon Jul 09 1990 14:30 | 12 |
| I used the fiberglass posts, plastic insulators, and electric cord for
my "playpen." The posts are ten feet apart and I used only one strand
of cord, set at about four feet. I did use two real wooden fence posts
for the gate. And I hung the charger on one of these posts. This is a
flimsy-looking arrangement--a horse could easily plow through. That's
why we made sure the horses zapped their noses a couple of times tp
learn to respect the fence, and we only use it when we are home. It has
worked fine so far. (There's a note in this file about my experience.)
I think the charger is going to be your most expensive item. I saw that
State Line sells some pretty cheap versions (@ $30) so maybe you can
cut corners that way.
|
| 42.7 | remember - fill the holes | CMOTEC::HARWOODJ | Judy Harwood RDL 899-5879 | Mon Jan 07 1991 08:33 | 14 |
| Just a gentle reminder to all those who may be planning to, or have
moved fence lines. Please, please fill in the old holes, particularly
if they are in grass.
Recently my mare put her foot down a conceled hole. Fortunately
for both of us (I was riding her at the time) she escaped the more
serious injuries - broken leg, damaged/severed tendons to name some.
A long gouge along the canon bone is bad enough.
I know we all try to make our places safe, but it is all too easy to
think 'I'll deal with that tommorrow', get distracted and then forget
because the grass has grown, obscuring the hole.
Judy
|
| 42.8 | | DASXPS::LCOBURN | If it works, break it. | Mon Jan 07 1991 11:31 | 9 |
| Speaking of fence posts, a friend of mine was giving me a tour of
her new barn/paddock and rather than digging post holes and cement
the post in she had found these "post ups" that looked interesting...
a square metal tube that is easily driven into the ground and holds
a 4 x 4 (or whatever the size is) in position. Has anyone else ever
used them? We will probably try them in the spring as we have new
fencing to install once the ground thaws, looks like they'd be easy
to move around...
|
| 42.10 | I hate to dig fence posts | FRAGLE::PELUSO | PAINTS; color your corral | Mon Jan 07 1991 12:32 | 5 |
| My boyfriend and I saw them at a home show. The vendor claimed
many customers have used them for paddocks.
They looked sturdy enough....
|