Conference noted::bicycle

    What's it take to get a  FIT-KIT ?   Price?  future problems?
    
    

    I had similar feelings on first trying cleats.  When I started riding
    again, I didn't know anything, and didn't even have a helmet (or a
    pump!)  But I learned and got my mileage up.

    After a few years, I decided to try cleats, (without fit kitting, just
    my own adjustments), and after the first ride there was no turning
    back!  The feeling of being strapped in was a bit strange at very first,
    but the power and efficiency were such a contrast.  My fears about
    knee trouble, or falling down, were unjustified.  It was such a boost
    that I got psyched and averaged almost 100 miles a day for nearly
    two weeks straight!  It was late June, plenty of daylight for such
    indulgences...

    Definitely go for them - after a helmet, shoes really *are* the most
    important piece of riding attire.

    - Jim

    	Some aspects of the Fit Kit are discussed in Notes 186 and 188
    (and many others).  The important part of the Fit Kit re. cleats
    is the 'RAD' or Rotational Adjustment Device, that is used to set
    cleat angles that are optimum for you.  
    	The basis is a freely swiviling pedal substitute.  It has two
    rod indicators sticking out to the side: one to indicate the axis
    of rotation of the pedal spindle, the other to indicate the axis
    of rotation of the freely floating pedal.  If you adjust the cleat
    angle so that the two axis coincide, you are minimizing the stresses
    on your knees, ankles, etc.  
    	Something similar can be done by riding with smooth bottom shoes
    for a bit.  See where the rear edge (the one the cleats fit over)
    of the pedal leaves a mark on the shoe bottom.  Place the cleat
    over this mark.  
    	The Fit Kit has an adapter that allows you to adjust Look
    type cleats, too.   - Chris 

    
    	I'm in agreement with Chris (for once) on the suggestion about
    letting your pedals mark the shoes and setting your cleats there.
    It gets back to how you really ride on the road, including hills,
    and removes the artificial "laboratory conditions" of setting up
    the cleats on a stationary trainer.  When I was young (yes, I *WAS*)
    the local bike shop would sell bike shoes without cleats, "come back
    in a coupla hundred miles and we'll see about cleats".  If the shoe
    marks were too indistinct, "come back next week", if they were too
    wide (indicating a lot of rotation, i.e. too much), "cleats aren't
    for you".

    	Currently I'm somewhat down on the Fit Kit.  When it first came
    out you could get the basic measurements done for free as part of
    the sales push to get you onto a new bike.  I got measured 4 times
    and got 4 different recommendations, the middle of the range was
    about where the department store method would have been.  I even
    went back to one place a second time and got different readings
    from the same person.  Well, try it yourselves, see how much
    variability there is from store to store, then go back a week later,
    say you've lost the card and could they do it again please.
    
    	Reg
    

    
    RE-.1
    
    	The FIT-KIT cost $25 but only had the cleats done which cost
    $15. I had it done at Bicycle Alley in Worcester MA.
    
    	Reg, I agree that the complete FIT-KIT is a waste of time but
    the method of mounting cleats is worth it. With the bike on the
    trainer you tend to spin more at ease than if you went out on the
    road. This will find the cleat location of a natural spin not one
    of brute force which would end up hurting you. I found it perfect
    for me. No pain at all after. Matter of fact having it done this
    way removed a bad trait I had in moving my feet around in the pedal
    to get more power which gave me knee trouble.
    
    still...gain without the pain
    				Tom
                                   

    
    re .5	"brute force" ?		Wha ?	Me ?	Nah ?
    
	Reg
    

    All I did to adjust my cleats was bring a screwdriver with me and
    experiment with how they felt while out riding.  I had heard of the
    'mark on the shoe' idea, but it was easier to just stop and tweak
    them during an actual ride.  When I was happy with them, I nailed
    them in.  On some of the shoes now the cleats can be bolted in tight
    enough that the nails aren't needed (so thay claim).

    If you're an experienced rider the fit kit is probably not that useful,
    but for a real beginner it may be worthwhile to get you in the ball park
    quickly.  For instance, I experienced numb hands when very first riding,
    no doubt partly due to poor bike fit, and that could have been avoided.

    - Jim

Any opinions on Reebok shoes?  I am looking into getting a pair of their 
cleated cycling shoes.  Steve's Mass Transit in Marlboro doesn't carry them as 
the '88 model supposedly has problems with the leather from South Korea.

cbs

Its been a couple of years and my cleats are holding up well, but they have
lost there integrity to hold my foot securely and I just can't seem to get them
tight enough lately. I think the leather is stretched out and the velcro can't 
be pulled any further to tighten them. Now my foot is really moving around 
inside them front to back. It might be time to get a new pair.

So... 

How do you like the cleats you have, do they fit well, how have they held up?
Would you buy them again?

I liked my Specialized cleats for the money but I felt they lacked support
around the heel to hold my foot in place.

Tom

    I recently bought a pair of Cannondales.  They fit well, although they
    seemed snug at first.  I can't judge longevity yet.  So far, I like
    them.
    
    Barry

I've had a pair of Lotto Giro for 2 1/2 years now.  Like the fit just fine. 
Had one problem, when I bolted the LOOK cleat down the first time I must have
used too much force and the female piece in the sole broke loose.  When I
replaced the cleats I could only get that one bolt 99% tight and then it would
start to spin the sole.  I just covered the bolt with rubber cement so it
wouldn't come loose and it's been fine.

I always thought that if I were to get a new pair I would get last years Nike
shoe.  That model first has laces and then has nylon velcro straps over that. 
Seems that they would offer the best possible fit.

    Love my Axo Turbos.  A little expensive but you get what you pay
    for.  An all leather shoe with laces and velcro.  The laces are
    on the side of the foot so they don't dig in when tightened.  There
    is also an extra piece of leather so the velcro doesn't peel back
    when stepping into pedals with straps.  I am using them with my
    clipless pedals and find them indestructable yet comfortable.
    
    						Norm