Conference noted::bicycle

    Don't let your concern about components and value stand in the 
    way of buy a great bicycle.  The Reynolds tubing is presumably
    better than most chromoly, and the 600 EX stuff is presumably
    better than the 105 components, but those details are meaningless
    unless the bike fits you, corners competently, climbs smoothly, 
    absorbs shock, and balances effortlessly.  I have a feeling that 
    by the time you ride each of the three bikes, it will become clear 
    which is best for you, components and features aside.
    
    MATT

Re .-1

I agree 100%.  When I bought my first "good" bike a few years ago, I agonized
and agonized over tradeoffs in specs, geometries, componentry, etc.  After I
actually rode the bikes, the fog cleared instantly.

.jim

    re .0	See a whole bunch of other notes regarding fit, even
    a gas pipe frame is better than Reynolds 531 if it fits your body
    proportions better.
    
    	2nd and n'th order factors:-
    
    	*ASSUMING* the fit is good, go for the 531 frame

    	Wheels (steel is real, alloy is toy)
    
    	Crankset and pedals (but don't muck with the strapless junk,
    				its just a fad)
    
    	Brakes
    
    	Changers, (but don't muck with the clickety click junk, just
    			learn to shift and learn to maintain the bike)

    	Miscellaneous cheap bits that are easy to upgrade    

    	*COLOUR* !  (maybe that should be #1 ?)
    
    	Reg  (I know its me thats really #1)
    
    

re .3

>>    	Wheels (steel is real, alloy is toy)

Is he really recommending steel wheels?  I don't believe it!
    
>>    	Crankset and pedals (but don't muck with the strapless junk,
    				its just a fad)

None of the bikes you mentioned comes with a pedal system (LOOK, etc) but any 
of the systems are infinitely better than regular pedals and toeclips.  Safer, 
quicker, more comfortable.  Fad, HELL!  In a few years I bet you won't be able 
to buy a bike with toe clips.  If LOOK's are good enough for Hinault, LeMond, 
etc, there good enough for me.    

>>    	Changers, (but don't muck with the clickety click junk, just
    			learn to shift and learn to maintain the bike)

What's wrong with indexed shifting?  Even Campy offers it now.  Its easier, 
quicker, more positive, allows you to shift under pedal pressure that would 
stop a friction changer.  I've got it on my mtn bike and love it!  I'd put it 
on my road bike, except no one makes a set of indexed shift levers that would 
mount on top of my down tube, like my Suntour shifters do, and I like the way 
I can double shift with one hand.  Otherwise, I'd go with them.

From all of what Reg said, he sounds like a tradionalist who's against any new 
technology.  Why not take advantage of what's new, instead of sticking with 
old, obsolete stuff?

Kevin    
    

    I'm stocking up on the old stuff that's getting thrown away/sold
    at yard sales so I can sell 'em to Reg in about 50 years when the
    ones he has wear out.
    
    ed

    	RE: 340.4
    
    	I'd enjoy using a different pedal system. But, as <supply name>
    	mentioned in 331.0, where can a fella' (I hope there are no
    	women out there with this problem) that wears a size 14 shoe
    	find a good bike shoe? It's like most everything else, you
    	pay a fortune to get it, or do without.
    
    	Luckily, when I started scuba diving, I could by a wetsuit
    	off the rack (although it is a 2XXL)
    
    	I mentioned that I rode to and from work yesterday. Only about
    	46 miles round trip, but the most I've ever done. After a while,
    	the big toe on each foot seemed to be aching a little. BTW,
    	all I have in the way of shoes is a pair of Nike running shoes.
    
    	Any suggestions (other than those in 331.*)?
    	Scott

    Anyone who buys Look pedals is paying Hinault and Lemond about
    $10 for the privilege.  Do you think they ride on them for free?
    When a sponsor puts up money for the brand of socks you wear,
    its not hard to feel comfortable in them.
    
    MATT

    
    re: .7
    
    I don't know about the figure $10, but all that matters is that
    they are the right thing!!!
    
    Back on the subject a little.... I thought.... Hoped.... Reg was
    kidding..... He musta been.....
    
    Stew
    

    
    	Hmmm, it seems my subtlety is slipping.  Sure I recommend steel
    wheels over alloy, they're faster, especially in the rain with the
    brakes on.
    
    set mode/mood=<dead serious>
    
    	I'm gonna stick with shoes I can walk in.  I've had cleats for,
    well... a long time, and I used to use them when I thought I needed
    to impress people about how "serious" of a cyclist I was.  I never
    managed to convince myself that they made any *REAL* difference,
    other than making me walk as if I had saddle sores from my knees
    to my elbows.  Even for time trials its a real drag having to
    clippety_clop from the car to the road, and when a bit of gravel
    gets stuck in the slot... bah, just not worth the agravation.  Bernie
    the Badger ?, sure;  me ?, nah, different application.  I don't
    need to get clicked in that quickly, he doesn't need to walk in
    his bike shoes, it isn't a "good enough for him, so they're good
    enough for me" issue.
    
    	Clickety_click ?	I've only tried the Shimano SIS and
    that was on a stationary trainer.  It was different, may help people
    just starting out, seemed to be a solution in search of a problem.
    If they had been around a couple of years earlier I probably would
    have put them on *MY FIRST MULTI_SPEED BICYCLE* (had ridden "fixed"
    exclusively up to that time).  Now that I've learned to shift a
    conventional shifter it seems pointless and expensive to "upgrade"
    for the sake of chasing technology.  When my bikes get difficult
    to shift I get the tools out or I take a rest, whichever is
    appropriate.  I pay extra for automatic transmission on most of
    my cars, though I learned on a manual, but there are other reasons
    for that.

    	Reg
    
    	Reg
    

    Thanks for the suggestions (I guess??).  I bought the Trek Tri with
    all the "clickety Click" stuff (remember the original question...
    I wanted some opinions on three bikes?).
    
    Anyway, everyone has their own preference.  As far as I'm concerned
    you guys were right, if the bike feels and rides great then buy
    it (regardless of any fancy components).  The Renyolds 531 frame
    is stiff enough when cranking it up a hill and the Sakae FX crankset
    seems to maintain a positive and true circle (not much flexion).
    The shimano brakes are fine and the "alloy" wheels are the only
    way to go (He really was endorsing Steel???).  
    
    Furthermore, after riding 100 miles or so on my new Trek, I've come
    to the conclusion that the Shimano 600 SIS stuff is nifty.  However,
    you have to bring a small phillips head with you to "tweak" the
    rear derailler at first... they're never correctly adjusted out
    of the shop (just can't seem to get good labor these days).  TAKE
    NOTE:  If you know how to shift, you'll be better than the SIS stuff.
    SIS is NOT as positive as HIS (Human Interface Shifting) but it's
    still kind of fun to use.. you can always turn the shift lever switch
    to friction for the races.
    
    Lastly, the San Marco saddle is nice!
    
    So, there's my own critique of the Trek Tri that I bought.  Like
    the first few replies imply, if you don't agree that's OK 'cause
    my bike fits ME and mabye not YOU.  
    
    Thanks for the replies that were pertinent to my question (the others
    were just plain fun to read).
    
    See ya on the road,
    
    Keith

    re .10 & .0	   Good for you !	
    
    	I Hope you get many happy, safe miles with it.

    	Now you just *HAFTA* set up a ride so you can show it off to
    us !
    
    	Reg