Conference noted::bicycle

    
    My inclination would be to take it to a bike shop.
    
    You have the right idea: a steel brush, solvent, etc., might help.
    
    The bike-shop guy, however, will have a Facing Tool, which he can
    screw in to the head tube and BB tube to make the two faces of the
    tube parallel (by shaving off metal).  That's what's involved.
    
    Do you have a bike shop you feel comfortable with in the neighborhood?
    
    -john

    Could you have gotten by with a new fork?  The damage you desribe only
    indicates that the fork was bent.
    
    As for the other things, it sounds like you're going to be learning a
    lot about bike overhaul.  Presumably the new frame is compatible with
    the old one, same types of threads? same braze-on vs clamp-on specs?
    etc...
    
    Good luck, everyone's drooling for a chance to help.
    
    ed

>    The bike-shop guy, however, will have a Facing Tool, which he can
>    screw in to the head tube and BB tube to make the two faces of the
>    tube parallel (by shaving off metal).  That's what's involved.
    
In all likelihood, you won't need to do this - this is done at the frame 
factory, so unless QC missed it (I needed a headtube done once) this
need not, and should not, be done.

Your BB (the 'cups' probably refer to this) should probably be installed
by a shop since they'll have the tools. The right tool is $$$$ but an
adequate tool for occasional home jobs isn't bad, and it's not hard to
do. Insure that they have the same threading as current bike, or you'll
need new cups. Headsets should be installed by a shop (I even used to
have mine installed by someone else at the shop I worked in, 'cuz I have
a real hate-hate relationship with headsets). 

In general, most everything else oughta transfer pretty easily with the 
exception of seat post (multiple sizes separated at .2 mm intervals) and 
rear stay width (to accomodate the plague of 6, 7, 8, 9, and 87 cog 
freewheels that some folks have been conned into 'needing' :-) ).

                                             ken

>    Could you have gotten by with a new fork?  The damage you desribe only
>    indicates that the fork was bent.
    
Actually, I read .0 as indicating that the top tube and down tube got 
toasted, and that what he referred to as the 'fork-tube' was actually 
the headtube. Yes, no?
                                      ken

    
>>In all likelihood, you won't need to do this - this is done at the frame 
>>factory, so unless QC missed it (I needed a headtube done once) this
>>need not, and should not, be done.

I needed my BASSO frame set faced in the seat tube. Just a quick look will tell
you if there is need to have this done. Is there paint in the tube? Then it
will be difficult to insert the seat post without have the tube faced. Same
goes for the head set in the head tube.

Have them install the crank and headset/fork. The rest of the job you can
do yourself with easy to find tools. Go to you local library and get a bike
repair book and you'll be all set.

Tom

>I needed my BASSO frame set faced in the seat tube. Just a quick look will tell
>you if there is need to have this done. Is there paint in the tube? Then it
>will be difficult to insert the seat post without have the tube faced. Same
>goes for the head set in the head tube.

Actually, it seems to me the op. you're describing is 'reaming'. Facing, 
as I understand it, is grinding the 2 ends of a cylinder to be parallel 
to each other and at right angles to the length of the tube. Something 
you'd only want done to the headtube and BB shell. I've not run across a 
seat tube that seriously required reaming (cleaning paint from the 
inside) since the expansion slot usually allows for at least some paint 
overspray inside. Headtube/headset fit is not quite as forgiving....

                                            ken

    Re:.4: Oh, ok, that makes sense.  I have a frame like that, too.
    (My WREK 720)
    I also have a bent fork from the time I wrecked my WREK 2000.
    
    Come to think of it, I've had my worst luck on my WREK's.  Perhaps
    I should treat them better.
    
    ed

>    <<< Note 1831.6 by SUSHI::KMACDONALD "Drywall Poster Child for 1990" >>>
>                    -< We talkin' 'bout facing or reaming? >-
>
> >I needed my BASSO frame set faced in the seat tube.
>
> Actually, it seems to me the op. you're describing is 'reaming'. 
    
    Yes, that's reaming. Although you say it's unlikely to be necessary on
    a new frame (I agree) I did need to have it done to my Harry Hall frame
    after it had a top tube replaced. The mechanic put a huge drill thing
    (a reamer) vertically in a vice, then plunged the frame seat tube down
    onto it, swivelling the frame as he did so. Looked painful... but the
    seat post went in afterwards.
    
    As for headsets, not so long ago in this very file I outlined my
    coarse guide to installing headsets, which required nothing more
    sophisticated than a piece of wood and a big hammer. However I also
    remember taking some flak for daring to reveal such an unkind way with
    bike parts, so I won't give a pointer.
    
    
    Rod

    Hi folks,
    
    re: .2
    	.4 was correct, only I'm not calling things the right names. Now I 
    	know what down tube and top tube mean, but...
    
    I assume a headset is the fork assembly and the head-tube is the
    tube in which the fork assembly goes? And BB means bottom-bracket
    I'd guess. Is that the cylinder through which the pedal crank goes?
    
    Also, I understand what facing is (making the planes at each end of a
    cylinder parallel) but why does this need to be done to my frame? And
    does it need to be done to both the bottom-bracket and the head-tube?
    
    thanks, 
    
    -rob (about to look for a good bike book...)
    

    
       RE: .9
    
    >> I assume a headset is the fork assembly and the head-tube is the
    >> tube in which the fork assembly goes? 
    
          You've got the head tube right, but the headset is actually
      two sets of bearings that fit into the upper and lower ends of
      the head tube. The headset is the interface between the fork
      assembly and the head tube. It's important that the headset
      bearings be installed square to each other (parallel planes) so
      that steering is not adversely affected and bearing wear is
      kept to a minimum.
    
    >>                                          And BB means bottom-bracket
    >>  I'd guess. Is that the cylinder through which the pedal crank goes?
    
          You got it.
    
    
    
                                                 Steve

>    Also, I understand what facing is (making the planes at each end of a
>    cylinder parallel) but why does this need to be done to my frame? And
>    does it need to be done to both the bottom-bracket and the head-tube?
    
This is from the terminology wars :-) back a few notes; what was really 
meant is that the headtube and/or seat tube might need to be REAMED if 
there was excess paint inside the tubes which wouldn't allow the headset 
(bearings) or seat post to insert easily. FACING should not need to be done as 
this is done at the factory; on very rare occasions Q.C. misses a frame 
(I had one) and facing must be done or the headset races won't be 
parallel to each other. I certainly wouldn't recommend FACING either the 
headset or BB unless there's known to be a problem.
                                                   ken

Unless you want to purchase some fairly expensive tools I would recommend 
paying a good bicycle shop to install the bottom bracket and headset.  At a
minimum the bottom bracket threads will need to be chased, a cheaper tool than
a bottom bracket tap, to remove any crud.  Then the alignment will need to be
checked --- of the bottom bracket face, only if you are using a fixed cup
adjustable bearing.  If you are using bottom bracket cartridge you might want
to check that the threads in the bottom bracket are in proper frame alignment.
This is definitely not a cheap tool situation.  NECA in the New Hampshire area
makes an alignment tool that can be used or a frame builder usually has an
alignment table that is a much more expensive alternative.  The headset facing
can be checked with the tool that also does the cutting to make the bearing
race surfaces parallel and at right angle to the steering axis.  This tool is
not cheap.

How many frames do you intend to put components on?  Several, then buy tools
and learn how to use them.  A few, get to know a good bicycle shop or frame
builder.  One, but want to learn how to use the tools --- sign up for bicycle
mechanics class and take the frame to class.

What are the results of not having everything done?  That is another long set
of arguments and discussions.

    	As an aside, I have learned that some early NECA alignment tables 
    were not all that straight.  As a result, some shops were "fixing" 
    brand new frames that didn't have alignment problems to begin with.  I 
    remember that about five years ago, someone at a certain Tyngsboro shop 
    told me that all new frames were misaligned.  He then showed me 
    an NECA table and a new Serotta frame as proof of this theory.  Now it 
    all begins to fit together...   

    was that MY Serotta?
    
    :-(
    
    ed